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Found 92 results

  1. WHAT IS THE TRUE EXPERIMENTAL TWEAK THREAD ALL ABOUT? I have always wanted a thread where any subject is possible. No experiment is too crazy to add here. No idea is too bold to reveal. Take it away! Enlight your thoughts and share your ideas how to improve SQ and how not to. Anyone can encurage and educate you but no one should let you down, deminage you or simply move you to another thread. Everyone is welcome as long as they accepts a different way of thinking! TOPIC DIGEST With a little help of @austinpop I have realised that this thread is all over the place. Even if this is one of the fundamental ideas behind this thread, it could be a good idea to sum-up the things that have proven to be beneficial to SQ in this thread. I will keep it plain & simple. Remember that these are essentially my own findings in my own setup with Tidal FLAC and Tidal MQA as source. As always YMMV! LAN 1. Cat 6a U/UTP 500Mhz ethernet cables sounds better than Cat5, Cat5E, Cat6 & Cat7+ in my setup. Ghent Audio Cat 6a ET02 with JSSG shielding and Metz plugs rules them all. 2. Network switch improve SQ with input on port 1 and output on the last port. Possible explanation is QoS and also that the ports are in different magnetic boxes inside the switch. 3. Using a AQVOX switch with better clock improves SQ compared to a D-Link DSG-105 network switch. 4. A wireless adapter/wireless bridge/router in client mode into a network switch sounds better than battery powered FMCs and hardwired LAN. 5. Router vastly improves SQ with a floating LPS and even more if the floating PSU is connected to a DC blocker trap filter. IME a router upgrade could be beneficial to SQ. 6. Galvanic isolation/DC blocker in the signal path pre the router improves SQ. 7. Wireless adapter vastly improves connected to a floating IT. 8. RJ45 socket enhancers seems to be more efficient on port 4 & 5. Don't ask me why! GND 1. Grounding a metal chassi network switch to a tourmaline grounding box greatly improves SQ. 2. Different tourmaline grounding boxes improves the sound signature in different ways. 3. Grounding the DC negative terminal of the floating SMPS works great. In my setup it sounds best connected to a grounding box instead of to the power strip safety ground receptacle. Just be aware of possible leakage loops between various network devices. A big thanks @JohnSwenson for this tip. USB 1. Covering the outer USB barrels with electrical tape improves SQ slightly with unshielded USB cables. Capasitive coupling between metal barrel and pins? 2. Uptone Audio´s USPCB improves SQ. 3. ATL Hi-Fi´s 8 conductor USB cable with dual unconnected shields (5v+GND & Data- & Data+) with JSSG loop improved SQ compared to other longer (<50cm) USB cables that I´ve tried. DC 1. Network switch sounds best with dual floating PSUs or battery power (but very important to disconnect the battery charger while listening to music). Dual floating PSU is slightly better than battery power, but battery power is slightly better than single floating PSU. 2. Powering several devices with a single floating SMPS sounds better than powering the very same devices with several battery supplies. Also, powering several devices with a single battery supply sounds better than using multiple identical battery supplies. Self-inflicted noise? 3. Canare 4S6 starquad does improve SQ where ever applied. Canare 4S6 with JSSG seems to be even more effective. Thanks to@JohnSwenson! 4. Grounding the DC negative output of a floating SMPS improves SQ. Grounding the chassi/case decrease SQ. Be aware of shared ground paths since this could potensially decrease SQ. 5. Dual LT3045 ultra-low noise voltage regulators in series with 1v drop-down close to the powered device improves SQ quite dramaticly. AC 1. A DC blocker trap filter pre a safety isolation transformer improves SQ even though it is dead silent (no hum). DC blockers trap filter pre a floating PSU into a router vastly improves SQ. DC stress reliever? 2. SQ improves when battery chargers is connected to a separate powerstrip connected directly to the AC wall outlet, bypassing the isolation transformer completely. 3. A safety isolation transformer with floating secondary improves SQ more than a Ultra Isolation transformer. A balanced isolation transformer with floating center-tap rules them all! 4. Daisy chained floating grounds (dual floating grounds) sounds better than a single floating ground. In my setup floating SMPS's improve SQ connected to a floating IT, even surpassing battery supplies. Thanks for the suggestion @lmitche! 5. AC mains starquad power cables greatly improves SQ. 6. AC mains voltage regulators improves SQ on the signal chain. Even cheaper versions are effective. Not as effective on high power devices such as active speakers and amp due to a still unknown reason.
  2. Hi Everyone, I recently delivery of the SOTM tX-USBultra and posted my impressions on another thread, but here it is again for those interested in this device. Initial impressions of SOTM tX-USBultra: I got delivery of my unit yesterday, then I plugged it in my system in the evening. What I did is to critically listen to 3 or tracks on my system with configuration (1): (1) Nimitra (JS-2)>>Curious 20cm link>>Intona>>Curious 20cm link>>RUR (LPS-1)>>Curious 20cm link>>Brooklyn DAC. The system simply sounded fabulous, music just flows with a sense of realism and 3D especially after installing my two dedicated circuits (one for digital and another for analogue) Here I would like to mention that I upgraded my AO from version 2.0 to 2.10 and it made a significant improvement, then I upgraded to the beta AO 2.20 and the sound went to another level (more transparent, wide soundstage and better separation). Then I removed the RUR+LPS-1 and replaced them with the SOTM tX-USBultra powered by the second rail of the JS-2 at 12V (my unit has the 12v option) so configuration (2) is as follows: (2) Nimitra (JS-2)>>Curious 20cm link>>Intona>>Curious 20cm link>>SOTM tX-USBultra(JS-2)>>Curious 20cm link>>Brooklyn DAC. just out of the box without any burn-in, configuration 2 clearly elevated the sound of my system in all directions, most importantly to me, a sense of feeling that the music is so real and so clear you feel that the notes are sharper and more defined in the soundstage, a veil taken off the music! (a cliche but it accurately describes my experience) I didn't try to power it with the VR MINI because I use it on the Brooklyn and if I change this configuration, then it won't be A/B comparison anymore. My logic now is that I can improve it by freeing the JS-2 from feeding two units and keep it only to Nimitra and get a dedicated PSU to power the SOTM tX-USBultra, but too early now to make any decisions before I get my DC ammeter working. So (RUR+LPS-1) will be staying with me for a short time to do some A/B comparisons after 1 or 2 weeks when the SOTM tX-USBultra has settled in my system and most probably will be listed for sale. My learning is that isolation by ultra-capacitors is important but super clock with a good LPS can be more important. I hope this helps others on a similar path
  3. Hi guys, So, I have a little problem with my USB-Sound device. I've got a Soundcraft Notepad-5 connected via USB to my Windows 10 computer. Overall I am very happy with this device, except for one thing. If I play for example a short note in my DAW, the soundcard won't let me hear it. When I play the same note over and over again it will eventually pick up. To me it seems like it thinks that that one sound isn't worth playing through my speakers or something.. very weird indeed! Playing music etc. works perfectly fine.. Does anyone have a solution to this problem? It seems very odd to me, and I can't find anything on the internet about it since it is a fairly new device. I also have installed the latest drivers for it. Thanks in advance! Gerard de Graaf
  4. The iDAC2 – spilling the secret sauce (part 1) The iDAC2’s musicality has wooed – most recently the iDAC2 + iPurifier2 + Pro iCAN at the Fujiya AVIC Headphone Festival in Tokyo where the market is probably the most demanding on the planet. Source: iFi Retro Stereo 50 + iPurifier2 at Fujiya Avic 2015 | DAR__KO The Pro iCAN was one of the show ‘best sound winners’ so the small but mighty iDAC2 + iPurifier 2 combo deserve some credit for producing the digital-to-analogue conversion to feed the Pro iCAN. At the show, the quite technically proficient Japanese press asked us on more than one occasion why the recently-launched iDAC2 sounded so nice. And this is a press pack that has turntables in heavy rotation so they know their onions. This gave us the idea to put finger to keyboard. Source: 【候補多すぎ】ヘッドフォンç¥*アワード2015秋は週末までに公開致します! | 目福耳福 Fujiya Avic BLOG Bake-Off: the iFi recipe behind a really good DAC The following are our thoughts only. The application of the parts budget as common industry practice is similar to what we did in the iFi iDSD nano which is more indicative of <US$1,000 DACs. Often a very large part of the budget is needed for the digital platform (after all, we need a DAC Chip that headlines and a good USB processor). Power supplies and analogue stages receive the remaining budget. Hence, the three key cost areas in the electronics of a digital-to-analogue converter: Digital section cost - is much the same across the board, chipsets/clocks vary but slightly and software is usually ‘off the shelf’ like the XMOS firmware and off the shelf DAC Chips of usually comparable cost. In a USB DAC the USB Processor is usually the biggest ticket item before the DAC. Clocks and their power supplies often cost as much as a DAC Chip. Analogue section cost – from a simple double Op-Amp for 20 cent to things done much more extensively cost varies. The iDAC2 has BB Soundplus integrated amplifier and a discrete JFet and BJT Class A output stage. Further it employs C0G Capacitors and MELF Resistors for all signal positions, all this adds cost. Power supply section cost – Often USB DACs have minimal power supply arrangements with generic 3-pin regulators. If done more extensively, then the cost is higher eg iDAC2 uses ELNA Silmic Capacitors and Active Noise Cancellation® to eliminate the USB power noise. iDAC2 is no piece of cake Things are different in the iDAC 2: we started with a larger budget, we could have spent it in a number of ways, like more DAC Chips or different ‘fashionable’ DAC Chips or fancy clocks. Instead we chose to put the extra budget where it impacts most, namely analogue stages and power supplies. The iDAC2 has a similar cost digital section as with other DACs out there (and to our iDSD nano) but its analogue and power sections are more extensive hence its overall cost is greater so its pie chart area is larger. The proof is in the listening. Next time: Part 2. The Digital section
  5. A Guide on how to get the most from your Schiit Eitr I recently began a quest to determine if it was possible to improve sound from the Schiit Eitr. There are three variables I knew to explore: USB Cable from source to the Eitr S/PDIF Cable from the Eitr to the DAC Power Supply (not necessary: LPS already used by Schiit) Where I am coming from: I listen using HD800S phones powered by a Kenzie tube amp and Brooklyn DAC+. I avoid powered USB hubs and connect the Eitr directly from a USB 2.0 port on my Win 7 Pro laptop. USB Cables Do Make A Difference My first experiment involved comparing the popular Blue Jeans USB 2 cable to the AudioQuest Diamond USB Cable, Type A to Type B, 0.75m. AudioQuest Diamond USB Cable Review Source was Tidal HiFi using non MQA tracks I was very familiar with. After listening using the Blue Jeans cable I swapped in the AudioQuest Diamond. The most immediate difference was in musicality: tracks were more enjoyable to listen to. Consider swapping a basic turntable for an LP-12 and the music becomes more "tuneful" as Linn used to say. To be more specific sound stage became wider, deeper and taller using the Diamond cable. There was more air around instruments and voices. Treble was silky smooth and I noticed more impact in bass. I heard more detail and it was easier to listen deep into the tracks. Advice: if you have a very revealing system and can get an AudioQuest Diamond on trial from a dealer try it for yourself. Bits are not always just bits and USB cables do make a difference. I have an interesting high-end S/PDIF cable on the way and will update once I have a listen.
  6. JCAT version 1 USB Card for sale. I have the larger back plate as well and would be included. $240 including PayPal and shipping to continental United States.
  7. This is my first post so bear with me. I've used mp3 on cell phones etc for years but recently ripped all my CDs to both mp3 and FLAC using dB Power Amp. I am looking to setup a high quality 2 channel FLAC audio system using a NAS. I have an older high end Yamaha receiver which lacks HDMI. A Schiit Modi 2 is in my near future as is some 2 or 4 bay Synology NAS. Q1. Are those DAC and NAS a reasonably good choice? Will they just boot and play nicely together? Q2. In Synology Audio Station I would set the NAS to playback on "usb speaker" in order to get the FLAC out the usb port and into the DAC. When playing a NAS video presumably the audio portion of the video still goes over the eithernet [don't care if this also goes over USB port]. Q3. There seems to be so many Synology NAS models, including last years models still available from some on-line sellers. What do I need to look for in order for this setup to work? Is there a series that I should be looking at? [+, +II, j, se, play, etc] [I also have a 2016 55" 4K HDR TV but I don't think I will be trying to use the NAS to upscale to 4K, or even 1080p]. [on the TV side; the TV, Blu-ray, android box etc will play their audio via a HDMI switch with analog audio breakout connected to receiver input] Thanks John
  8. Wondering if anyone is connecting MacBook Air as a one computer config so one usb port is connecting to dac, and internal ssd as boot drive - whats the best sq solution in your experience: 1. Use another usb port for external hdd - ssd, or just a regular drive? I play mostly dsd; 2. Use the SD card slot and better sq or not? 3. Use thunderbolt external hdd, better sq? Audirvana manual recommends making sure the high speed usb port are dedicated to usb connection to dac, not sure if the 2 usb ports on macbook air is on same circuit thus shared, therefore am wondering if using the other connection options may imprive sq. Anyone can chime in on this? Thanks.
  9. ultraRendu & USB reclocker

    Hello all, I have a Wyred4Sound Recovery USB reclocker, which I used to place between my Auralic VEGA and Mac Mini (running Roon). Since I now have the ultraRendu, my VEGA is now fed directly from this device without direct connection from the Mac Mini. So the question is, would putting the USB reclockler between de Ultrarendu and the Auralic VEGA still make sense, as the ultraRendu already produces a low jitter signal? Anyone experience with this (or any other reclocker?)? How does this balance between putting another additional device (the reclocker) on the signal path? Thanks in advance! Rodrigo
  10. I am investigating how to improve the SQ from USB for my DAC8. Until now I have used a decent Chord USB cable, Jitterbug, ISO REGEN + USBPCB + TeraDak LPS, PUC2 lite + TeraDak LPS. So far my conclusion is that using a PUC2 lite with AES connection give the best sound. The only drawback is that it is limited to PCM 24/192. Sound quality is great, very clean, vert balanced with every instument in place. Using ISO REGEN or Jitterbug did not work for me. Jitterbug did not add or removed anything. ISO REGEN which is highly praised, sounds a bit better than USB only but it is not very significant as I expected. ISO REGEN + PUC2 lite is even more surprising. It is not as good as PUC2 alone. It emphasizes the lows but veils a bit the highs. It would nice to hear similar experiences and any recommendation for USB/DDC components that did significant improvement the T+A DAC SQ with USB. I am not looking for subtle improvements but ones that are significant, similar to what I get from PUC2 lite. Experience using Isolated/balanced power can be interesting as well.
  11. Hi Everyone! Apologies if this is a totally noob question, but as I have realised in the past few weeks, I am a total noob when it comes to A/V and mics. Anyway, a few weeks back I bought a condenser microphone (along with a stand, etc etc) to use for recording, however didn't realise at the time that condenser mics require phantom power to run. I'm now in the process of looking for a phantom power supply, however I stumbled across the Behringer U-PHORIA UM2 (which is apparently a USB audio interface) which provides phantom power. My question for the experts here, is whether this USB powered audio interface / mixer / preamp ... uhhh... thing, will allow me to use my microphone, and whether it will then also allow me to record via the USB output of the device. I'll drop a link to the manufacturer's website in case anyone wants to check the specs, honestly they fly over my head! http://www.music-group.com/Categories/Behringer/Computer-Audio/Audio-Interfaces/UM2/p/P0AVV Apologies for how stupid this question must seem, I'm just rapidly discovering I have no clue what I am doing and just want to get my mic working without spending a mammoth amount of money on top of what I have already spent. Thanks in advance for any help anyone can give me! Best wishes Cipher
  12. UpTone Audio USB Regen Orange - ships from Europe, so no duty and VAT tax for EU residents. Box and Meanwell PSU included. 130 EUR (cost in Europe is 200 EUR + shipping: http://www.itemaudio.co.uk/home/802-uptone-usb-regen.html) Shipping ~15 EUR via registered post. PayPal add 4.9% Price is FIRM.
  13. The exceptional Sonore Micro Rendu in "as new" condition with original box and USB A-to-B link. NO POWER SUPPLY. The micro rendu requires an external power supply- many different choices and price ranges available from others. Roon ready. See http://www.sonore.us/microRendu.html List $640.00. Sell for $540 via PayPal and will include shipping in US.
  14. Curious .8M USB cable. Perfect condition. About a year old No better USB cable at the price. $340 list, selling for $260 including shipping.
  15. Mutec MC-3+ USB Smart clock for sale. As new, used for less than a week. Latest firmware. Silver faceplate. $870 + shipping (US address only). PayPal. Digital re-clocker, jitter reducer, format converter, word-clock generator USB, AES/EBU, S/PDIF RCA, BNC and Toslink inputs Ultra-low jitter Word Clock generation with configurable multiplier Galvanic isolation 10Mhz external reference clock input PCM up to 32/192 and DSD/DoP up to DSD256 Converts DSD to PCM USB driver for Windows supporting ASIO, MME, DirectSound, WASAPI, Kernel Streaming MacOS does not require a separate driver
  16. Hi, Could anyone help me with or give me pointer where to find info to connect the Amanero module (https://amanero.com) to the DAC board of my AN DAC 2.1x over I2S. I want to exploit the 18/bit192Khz capabilities of the AD1865, connecting my DAC 2.1x (Signature) via USB, bypassing the CS8412 receiver as this only goes to 96Khz. Thanks.
  17. Please excuse me if this is the not the right area to post this question, this is my first post. I have been using my Cary 303T SACD as a DAC to listen to digital music stored on my computer running WIndows Vista. This worked fine till my laptop died, and I ended up with a new Windows 10 laptop. The Cary USB drivers seem to install correctly: install completes without errors, and the Cary Audio USB Driver is listed under control panel - installed programs. But when I plug the laptop to the Cary with the USB: The Cary does not recognize the PC, the display shows: PC/USB D-IN: NONE Windows 10 beeps (so it recognized something was attached) but does not recognize the device, Device Manager displays: Unknown Device, and when I check the driver details for the unknown device it says that No driver files are required or have been loaded for this device. The drivers are the latest ones available from the Cary web site. I tried re-installing this multiple times, with different combinations of installing in Compatibility mode for Windows 7 or Vista, as administrator, etc. I tried the Windows compatibility troubleshooter. I tried disabling driver signature enforcement following this video. I tried disabling USB selective suspend setting following this advice, and forbid WIndows to turn off the device to save power based on this site. The cable is OK (it is the same one I was using previously), but I also tried another one just in case, and tried all the laptop's USB connectors just in case. No luck. Has anyone else run into this ? Any suggestions to solve the issue ? Thanks in advance, Christiaan
  18. Hi! I have a Rendu with new PSU coming (Longdog Audio/MCRU). Have a Brooklyn with external PSU. I know there is a new REGEN in the works. I have read lots of threads about other conditioners like W4S, IFI, LanRover and also Singer. Review thread here - https://audiobacon.net/2016/12/01/ifi-nano-iusb3-0-review-vs-uptone-regen-wyred-4-sound-recovery-and-audioquest-jitterbug/ I am wondering whether you have solid experiences of boosting the performance of the Rendu into a Mytek Brooklyn with USB conditioning OR USB to AES/SPDIF conversion. Such as the Singer or even Audiophilla box? The LanRover BTW seems to be a sticker job on the original device from ICRON.. See (for the UK) here - https://www.icronshop.com/icron-brand/icron-ranger-2301ge-lan I have been thinking of going USB to AES because the Brooklyn sounds identical to me with USB Rendu vs SPDIF Sonos connect. Cheer Simon
  19. Let's suppose I have a recently purchased DAC with a lot of different choices for the digital interfaces. Is there one that is (likely to be) much better than the others? Or is there one that is (likely to be) worse? I am asking in terms of theoretically the best/worst and also in terms of typical implementations (say with a $5k price cap). I hear a lot about noise, ground loops, jitter, etc. but it isn't clear to me if there are clear differences across brands in these effects or in SQ overall. Choices include: USB WiFi (I use Apple AirPlay from iTunes currently) Toslink Ethernet (I have CAT 6 cable runs) HDMI Thunderbolt Coax I will leave out bluetooth....
  20. I see a number of high-end gadgets and cables that promise improved SQ, lower jitter, lower noise, etc., by injecting external 5v power into the cable, replacing the dirty and noisy 5v supplied by the PC. Seemed to me that this should be an easy DYI project, so I went ahead and spliced an off-the-shelf USB cable, severed the 5v power lines coming from the PC and connected an external jack that now accepts an external power supply. This enabled two experiments. I could now try a better regulated 5v power, including an LPS, or, I could try to see if my digital devices don't need power altogether by not plugging in external power. The cable works, as I have some USB gadgets that run on the USB-provided 5v that work correctly, and some data-only gadgets that also work, even without the 5v. Except for one device. Has anyone else tried such a project, and what did you find? Any suggestions or recommendations on what to do or not to do? When the cable (and the device) work, the sound is improved. But, I have one device that refuses to recognize the cable, with external power or without it. As long as I have all four wires and the shield connected all the way through, this device works. But, with my modded cable, the PC never recognizes the device. Any ideas why?
  21. I need a mic to talk to friends when I am playing games, but I hate using over the ear headsets; for me, they are uncomfortable, they give me a headache, and they hurt my ears after a while. My problem is that over the ear headsets are the only way I know of to have a sidetone, I cannot use a headset without a sidetone. I would much rather use my earbuds/in-ear headphones. My question is what do I need to be able to use in-ear headphones and still have a sidetone so I can hear myself? I tried to figure it out myself but I know absolutely nothing about this sort of thing. I don't really want to spend a lot on this, whatever is cheapest will be good enough for me.
  22. For sale UpTone Audio Regen USB with original UpTone Audio supplied PSU. Both units in 10/10 condition. Selling for 100 EUR (firm) + 4.9% PayPal + shipping (25 EUR by UPS to most EU countries) EU retail is 207 EUR (175 GBP): http://www.itemaudio.co.uk/home/802-uptone-usb-regen.html Unit ships from Poland, which is part of the EU (no extra taxes or duties when shipping to other EU countries).
  23. The Artistic Fidelity Isolator plus USB-Module is probably the most enhanced and thought through USB interface I have yet come across, for sure it is for me the most revealing and sounding of such devices! This DDC strictly speaking consists of two devices: the external USB-Module (powered by the computer's USB port) and the Afi itself (powered by an external PSU). My Mac mini is connected via a short USB cable to the external USB-Module, the module is connected via three 2 meter long (!) fibre optical cables (FOCs) to the Afi which outputs the re-clocked digital audio signal via an RJ45-to-AES/EBU adapter cable to my T+A DAC8. The reason for this set-up is: a) Isolation from the computer source The one of the three fibre optical cables carrying the audio stream from the USB-Module towards the Afi has no direct electrical pathway for High Frequency (HF) noise from the computer. The USB-Module and the Afi itself are completely galvanic isolated from the computer. b) Re-Clocking The 2nd FOC from the Afi towards the USB-Module contains the new clock signal generated by high precision oscillators in the Afi - completely independant from the computer. The 3rd FOC from the Afi towards the USB-Module transmits the switching signal for each of the sampling rate family multipliers either 44.1 or 48 kHz based. The Afi itself outputs the re-clocked audio signal in the RJ45 Ethercon format hence requires an adapter cable to connect to my T+A DAC via AES/EBU port. The sonic result of this set-up is simply stunning, instruments and voices sound much more natural and organic than ever before in my set-up when having connected the mini via 2 Jitterbugs and 1 Regen Amber to the DAC8' s USB port. Yes, there is much more black and quiet background, instruments and voices can be much better separated and followed during a song. They sound as if I am in a Live performance in my living room! No artefacts, not the slightest sign of steril digital sound anymore but a much more analog presentation from a digital music source..., what a dream coming true! I am sorry for my emotions and enthusiasm here but I think I have found the ultimate USB interface for my set-up. It costs €1.220 = $1.365 incl. adapter cable - for sure not cheap - but it is in my opinion worth every €/$. More detailed information can be obtained from the German Manufacturer's website under http://www.artistic-fidelity.de
  24. Hi, does anyone have any experience in connection a Mac Powerbook with Mac OS Sierra (latest version 10.12.4) to a TAD-D1000MK2 through USB? According to the user manual (which seem a bit dated since only Mac OS 10.8, 10.7 and 10.6 are mentioned...), the needed software drivers should be downloaded/installed automatically when connecting the Mac to the DAC, but nothing happens and I can't see the DAC as a selectable Audio Output device in the sound system preferences. Any ideas?
  25. Hello Audiophile Friends, I upgraded my PC and accordingly I considered to upgrade to Windows 10. Unfortunately, ARC said that my DAC8 is incompatible with W10 and a hardware update is required. The price is 1000$ for the update. Consequently I downgraded to W8.1 Pro which is confirmed by ARC as a compatible Windows version. On their web site there is only one USB Driver which, I assume, is compatible with all current and past ARC USB DACs. Technical support did not clarify this point. However it appears that the driver is not compatible with W8.1 Pro neither. When I connect the DAC via USB 2.0 ports DAC8 can be seen as listed in the devices list of the OS however the driver cannot be updated. Briefly, has someone got an idea about the problem? Is it a driver, OS or port issue? Can somebody provide the old driver that I stupidly did not keep (believe me, I keep and backup everything!). Can Windows 7 fix the issue? Thank you.