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Found 33 results

  1. Hey guys! I am doing a project where I'm investigating Dynaudio and it's main competition. I am a complete newbie in this field and curious to know a few things: - which brands would you consider main competitors to Dynaudio? -Would also be great to know what sets these brands a part, what would be Dynaudios main strengths and weaknesses compared to it's main competitors? - is Dynaudio an innovative brand or are other brands using more innovative technologies? Which ones? All opinions highly appreciated. Thank you in advance!
  2. Hello, I recently got a new computer and realized that they did not have any speakers in them. I have set of apple ear pods that i usually use but sometime i don't feel like wearing them so I went looking of a set of second hand speakers. I stumbled this set of Acoustic Research speakers somewhere and they look like a decent set of headphones, but i'm not sure if i should get them because they are pretty old. I'm not sure what model it is either do any of you recognize it? I also read somewhere that Acoustic Research made high end equipment but was told that it was 12 years old so i'm not too sure how much long it will last. Some others that i have asked have said that it looked like it was 30 years old which make me a bit more pessimistic. the seller said: "Speakers are in good condition but do have a few small marks. All speaker drivers are working well. Connected to a phone the speakers sound great." What is the model/sku of these speakers? How much should this set of they worth? How much longer should they last? Should i get them? Are they even good? So many questions, i know, sorry about that. I'm not really an audiophile so my what seems like a nice set of speakers may not actually be nice. Please let me know if they are not. Thankyou
  3. I am looking for small, decent speakers for my Mac for streaming music and movies. I prefer USB audio like my old 1st-gen SoundSticks. At a price under $300 the only speakers I see that offer USB audio are the Audioengine A2+ speakers. I know that if I consider other speakers with a DAC (or passive speakers with a DAC/amp) I'd be opening up a huge can of worms with a much larger available pool of choices. But if I just want a simple speaker solution with integrated USB, are there any other recommended choices at that price point? If not, I see that Presonus has a line of Ceres speakers that also include Bluetooth, in 3.5" and 4.5" woofer sizes. The 3.5" model is slightly bigger than the A2+ but has slightly higher specs (plus Bluetooth) while being half the price - does anyone know anything about this speaker?
  4. I hope this is the right section to ask this. If not please move to correct section. OK my current setup is my desktop PC-->JDS O2/ODAC-->Fiio A1-->Andrew Jones Pioneers I want to replace the A1 with something a little more powerful (25-50w ch.). Currently the A1 is about 14w ch. It sounds great and no issues with it whatsoever. (BTW, apparently Fiio reused the model name A1 for a small headphone amp. The A1 I am talking about is a discontinued speaker amp) Decided to pick up a Dayton Audio DTA-120 on sale ($78) and try it out. Sounded awesome, seemed a little clearer and great separation. Problem is I sometimes listen at low volumes at my desk and I am experiencing channel imbalance. Driving me nuts. So looking for an amp with a similar foot print to these 2, and has RCA inputs and speaker terminals. I just want an amp, no integrated DAC. $200 or less. Thanks.
  5. Hi All, We are building our first home, and are wanting to have builder pre-wire for in-ceiling speakers. One set pre-wires for 2 speakers, and we are thinking of having total 4 speakers in the house. However, we are not that savvy when it comes to speakers and all the new technology, so looking for help on choosing the right location for those speakers. Right now, planning to have them in Dining room, kitchen/nook area, living room, and covered patio in the back. Wife really loved them when we toured model homes, and likes streaming music while doing chores around the house. Question is: how do we choose the right location within each area? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!
  6. I was wondering, before purchasing the Airport Extreme Review: Apple's AirPort Extreme is a safe choice | Macworld, if it was possible to connect my 3 Sony Airplay speakers https://esupport.sony.com/US/p/model-home.pl?mdl=SANS310&LOC=3#/howtoTab to the 3 LAN Ports of the Airport Extreme and airplay simultaneously as multi-room audio from my Iphone without using iTunes ? Thanks for your cooperation. Regards Oliver
  7. Original Retail Price $5,500 Asking $1,100 The SC-III.A was introduced in 2002 as a cabinet revision of what had been the Cantata (and before that the Athena). The III.A is a three-way with forward-facing M-T-M plus a downward-firing 10” (sub) woofer. The speaker is a sealed box with stepped baffle and first-order crossovers. Dunlavy speakers are true time- and phase-aligned designs, of which there are very few on the market. You can hear the benefits of this approach immediately in imaging that is almost beyond belief. The speakers have a very natural, organic sound, which is what I prefer. Bass in my room goes down below 30Hz and, as a sealed-box design, is taut and tuneful. I have driven these speakers with everything from a 10wpc Audio Note tube amp to a slightly higher-powered PrimaLuna tube amp to very high-powered solid-state designs from PS Audio (BHK), Sanders Magtech, Hypex (DIY), Spectron and others. The Dunlavys made beautiful music with all of them, the differences being mainly in bottom-end weight and slam. I am the original and only owner of these speakers, which I purchased in 2010 as “new old stock” from several pairs discovered in the warehouse after Dunlavy had shut down due to John Dunlavy’s illness and subsequent passing. The cherry finish on these has become deeper and richer with age and looks gorgeous. Mine is a smoke-free household. I have never used the grills, so they are mint. (In the photo above, the frames for the grills are attached to cabinets, but they pop off for a cleaner look if you run them without the grills.) The individual driver surrounds are butyl rubber, so foam rot won't ever be an issue. Aside from a few minor blemishes here and there (all very minor, generally on the edges), the only item to mention is that one of the mounting screws for one midrange driver is missing. I took it out and embarked on trying to find “upgrade” replacements, which I did not find, but I ended up losing the one screw. The main cabinets sit on wood plinths, which sit directly on the floor. (I put felt pads on the bottoms to protect my wood floors.) This is how John Dunlavy felt they should be used, but some people like to put them on spikes, so I experimented. I removed the plinths and substituted a pair of Soundocity outriggers (http://www.soundocity.com/products.html), which fit perfectly and which you can see in the photo above. If you are interested, I will sell the outriggers for an additional $200. I have the original boxes for these (one per speaker plus one for both of the plinths, all in excellent condition). However, I strongly prefer not to ship. For now, at this asking price, this is for local sale only – SF Bay Area. Specs: Woofer (1) 10" (down-firing) Midrange (2) 6.5" Tweeter (1) 1" soft dome Frequency Response 27Hz - 20kHz, +/- 1.5 dB Dimensions 52"H x 11"W x 14"D Weight approximately 90 lbs each Sensitivity 90dB Impedance (Nominal/Min/Max) 4/3/6.5
  8. As with most audiophiles the world over, I love music. I am an engineer, pianist and classical listener predominantly, but open to all genres and music types and listen avidly to any music type either recommended or discovered. It all started for me, as these things have a wont to, with some money burning a hole in my pocket. A pocket that was not much used to having burning money in it... Countless daily hours over countless months of reading reviews, studying design methodologies and factors influencing sound reproduction, engineering principles and costs, listening sessions to train myself to be able to distinguish quality when heard and what to listen for. A clear obsession with the reproduction of sound. I started with speakers. The purchase of speakers I would suggest should be both the biggest, most personal, and most important part of designing and building a system that is perfect for you; or your wallet. Let's be clear here - the best system is the best system that you can afford. What matters is deriving the best possible sound from the core components that you can afford. That starts with you speakers. The choice of a speaker is a very personal decision and the reality is that when you go above a certain threshold, most speakers are of very fine quality and much better that the start-up audiophile will have ever had access to before. I settled on a used pair of B&W 803's. Perfect for me as they were aesthetically pleasing, sonorous (to my ears), and, most importantly, within budget. Ching - $4,000. Next was the amplifier. Here there is such an unbelievable level of choice as to be mindboggling. I took a very simple rule and applied it. I wanted to spend no more than 50% of my speaker cost on my amplifier. That gave me a budget of $2,000 and significantly limited my options. With an amplifier your main concern should be 1) will it effectively drive your speakers, 2) does it sound good with your speakers and 3) what will you use as your source. I wanted to go digital and the NAD 390DD was (and is) an amazing choice and an amazing amplifier. I got a refurbished unit, some nice transparent cabling and hooked it up to my mac mini as a source playing files from an external hard drive. It was amazing - I was in audiophile heaven. Ching - $2,000 - budget blown. One would think that should be the end of the story. A $6,000 system, some fantastic digital files at 44.1/high resolution and a newly discerning ear to appreciate it all. Those audiophiles out there will well appreciate that this is never quite the case though. As one learns more and more in this hobby, the quest for perfection is a niggling one. What is referenced above is the core - speakers and an amplifier - but the most important aspect, in my opinion, comes after. This is the portion of the journey where you work to make the absolute most of what you have. My beautiful 803's are never going to be $50,000 Wilson's or $80,000 sonus fabers. My 390DD is never going to rival the very best in available amplification. My MacMini will not stand up to a $100,000 DcS stack. But the steps taken post the acquisition of these devices will most definitely allow you to get close. Much closer than you might think possible - particularly up until you get to the speakers. I am just going to give it straight here - in my experience the source and more correctly the chain from source to amplifier has an effect similar to a jump of many $10,000 dollars on the amplifier speaker side. I have heard amazing speakers with amazing amplifiers and if the source is not of sufficient quality and, more importantly, the signal chain from the source to the amplifier, then you are wasting all that money on your amp and speakers. I have no doubt that if you're spending $120,000 on Fabers Aida's then you will have on the best at every level, but if you are operating at a less billionaire like level then the importance of the point above will be much more salient. In utilizing a mac mini for audio I was using usb out to usb in on the amplifier. More than fine. The problem with this is the quality of the power supply in the mini is dubious for audio (switching). You don't need to know all this, but suffice to say you want clean power for good results. Insert iUSB power regulator (or similar) into the chain for immediate improvement. Dramatic improvement in the case of the 390DD. Ching - $200 - we are getting cheaper and closer... Next thing to fix is the inherent problems with USB for audio generally... Now we don't have choice in terms of getting the signal out of the mini, but we do have a choice of what we feed to the amplifier. Enter a USB converter. Suffice to say I spent probably the most amount of time here in terms of research; clocking and conversion is a dark art... I tried multiple devices here in my system - each with their own positives and negatives, but settled; more than settled, fell in love with, the Yellowtec PUC2. This is not the prettiest and very far from the most expensive, but in my considered opinion, the very best; not just for the money, full stop. This device has had the single greatest impact on output quality and I now have a very nice transparent AES cable feeding my 390DD a magnificent, clean, musical digital signal. If you own a 390DD, I will tell you that the AES input is the best - this is not the case on all amplifiers, but for the 390DD the AES is your man. Ching $480 There is one final thing. One final tweak that, if you are searching for the best for your system will be the icing sugar on top. Try using a dedicated card to store your music. The USB bus on my mac mini is busy with external drives and other non audio related activities. The card slot is a clean bus and delivers a mite of extra sparkle. Ching - $50 What's the point here... Well what I want is to hopefully save a little time and heartache for someone that has a similar desire to that which I had. Implement the absolute best audio quality you possibly can on a limited budget (and in my case also with the flexibility of a media centre/TV setup for the mini). My goal was the best digital possible. If your goal is analogue quality then this direction is not for you I would suggest. Especially given the the 390DD has been very badly commented on for its phono stage... I have never tried it and never will. For digital though - it is sublime. $6,730 + a little bit lost in mis-steps along the way is the cost of my music system and I can promise you that I have heard very many relatively well implemented systems across multiple brands at 10x+ of the cost, in dedicated rooms, that don't even come close on multiple criteria - that is obviously while critically listening to the exact same recording. The point is that if you are smart about your expenditure and give the time and effort required to learn, listen, test and repeat, you can achieve amazing results on a comparatively low budget. Many reading this might consider this a nonsensical comment with expenditure as above, but that was my budget. What I am saying is that with care this quality scales. I paid $6000 for the core and $730 to take that core to its highest level. If you can only spend $1,000 on the core then the $730 will still bring that core to its highest level and certainly will be much more valuable than spending that extra $700 on a bit more speaker at the cost of improving the source-amplifier chain. What I have found with all my time is that, while you have to start at the end you will finish at the start. The speakers are the end and still the most important element in reproduction of sound; but it is the start; high quality recordings and the methodology of getting those signals to your amp and speakers which delivers the high fidelity. Bad recording or bad transmission will ruin even the best speaker amp combinations. So if you are going to buy into a high fidelity system this is where you need to focus - on the fidelity. Fidelity is detail and nuance - this is inherent at the start of the signal chain and can only get diluted from there. Once the signal hits your amplifier there is nothing you can do but hope that you remain more than satisfied with your investment in the core components. I want to thank the audiophile community and all the forums and content that exists to make this journey possible for someone starting from a zero base. I don't expect everyone or possibly anyone to agree with what I have said above, but do wish to offer my experience for someone who was where I was and thus pay it forward! Separate note - the 390DD is a direct digital amplifier blending the functions of amplification gain and digital analogue conversion in one device. If you are planning on a class A or A/B amplifier you will have the extra complexity of a DAC to consider. I wish you luck!
  9. We're very excited to have recently added ELAC to our lineup. Their Debut Series was built from the ground up with no off-the-shelf parts and delivers serious performance at price points that are redefining the cost/performance ratio. In the world of high-end and high-dollar audio it is rare to be this excited about an "entry level" speaker, but the Debut Series is anything but your run-of-the-mill speaker line. With speakers starting at $179.99/pair and subwoofers staring at $249.99, ELAC is leading the way in affordable, high-performance audio. DEBUT SERIES FEATURES CUSTOM-DESIGNED WOOFER WITH ARAMID-FIBER CONE Aramid fiber is employed in the woofers of all ELAC Debut passive speaker systems. Aramid fiber offers a superior strength-to-weight ratio and improved damping characteristics over conventional paper or plastic drivers. This added strength means arriving at designs that achieve a broader bandwidth with smoother response. SILK-DOME TWEETER WITH DEEP-SPHEROID CUSTOM WAVEGUIDE The waveguide surrounding the new ELAC high-frequency driver features a custom, deep spheroid profile to improve directivity control and shield the dome tweeter from cabinet diffraction modes inherent in traditional box enclosures. DEEP-SPHEROID CUSTOM WAVEGUIDE A custom-designed tweeter waveguide with a deep spheroid profile is utilized to improve directivity control and shield the tweeter wavefront from cabinet diffraction. INTRICATE CROSSOVERS A custom multi-element crossover with high-grade components in each speaker ensures smooth transition between the drivers. ROBUST CABINETS Every ELAC enclosure is engineered for the long run with thick MDF outer walls and a luxurious textured vinyl finish. The cabinets of the F5 floorstander, the C5 center channel, the S10EQ and S12EQ subwoofers incorporate specially designed internal bracing to add stiffness and strength to the cabinet’s outer walls. This bracing greatly reduces cabinet vibration, which causes unwanted coloration to the sound. ELAC believes that the only parts of a speaker that should be moving are the speaker drivers themselves. SUPERIOR BUILD QUALITY Count the parts and look at them closely. These don’t look like the components that go in such competitively-priced speakers, but rather, speakers that cost much more. ADVANCED BLUETOOTH® CONTROL & AUTO EQ Goodbye traditional analog controls. The Debut S10EQ and S12EQ subwoofers incorporate an advanced digital control system. Simply download (Apple devices / Android devices) the ELAC SubEQ app for your smartphone* and you will have complete control. No more fumbling around the back of the subwoofer. Utilizing the ELAC SubEQ app and your smartphone's microphone, both the S10EQ and S12EQ subwoofers will automatically equalize to your room's characteristics using a 12-band parametric equalizer. Full manual EQ is available as well. These products qualify for Free Shipping and 5% back in points when you register for Club Ciamara Membership Rewards Program 1.844.CIAMARA (1.844.242.6272) High End Audio Store NYC - Experience Ciamara
  10. So... I recently bought myself a pair of Polk Audio RTi A1s for my birthday. Long story short, I have no idea how to connect them to my computer. Things I have: Schiit Audio Mangi 2 Amp 3.5mm Jack on PC ~100$ So, I think that I need a DAC that supports speaker wire and a 3.5mm input. Am I right? What else do I need? Any suggestions on quality stuff at roughly 100$?
  11. Hi, new to forum (long-time lurker ). I have a pair of Alesis M1Active 520 (usb model) speakers/entry level monitors. Bought them new ~1yr ago and like them very much for the price. A common complaint is that the volume knob (that also powers them on/off w/ "click" at turn to '0') can get loose over time and then stop working all together (to power on). Mine are working still, but do feel 'looser' than when new. I thought I might add something, a switch (maybe a foot switch?) to plug them into, and then to the wall. And leave the Vol knob "On" (past 0, maybe at 2-3?). So not to use/stress knob and lead to eventual failure. Any Thoughts? Much Thanks in advance!
  12. Hi all, Here's my current set-up: Arcam rPac (rPAC - USB DACs - Arcam), which is connected to my PC. Pair of KRK VXT6 (VXT6 Studio Monitors Speaker KRK SYSTEMS) I'm looking for the easiest way to connect the speakers directly to my DAC. As you will see, the only connection output from the rPac is standard RCA. The speakers are active, so there is obivously no need for an amplifier here. My other thing I'm not sure about is how I am going to be able to control the volume. The KRKs have small volume knobs but they're are on the back of the units and not really meant to be changed as these are studio monitors. Would the built-in volume controller on my media player and/or windows volume slider be good enough? The only solution I can think of currently is simply to connect the them by [RCA to XLR] OR [RCA to 1/4inch jack] cables. Many thanks in advance for your suggestions, Jack
  13. Hi all, Also forgot to mention, but my Mars 'levitating UFO' Bluetooth speakers arrived yesterday after almost a year waiting. I had originally backed the Indiegogo campaign for it last year. So I got my unit yesterday and opened it up. The whole thing looked a bit like getting a Mac Pro, but speakers instead. Have to say I was impressed with the build quality! And yes, the top 'UFO disk' they call the Craft definitely hovers as soon as you power it on!
  14. hello everyone, new here, i just wanted to know what these speakers are? What is the model # for this? They both do not have labels but are plastic sealedwhich is weird to me. Again i am completely new to audio equipment, would appreciate some help on this. thanks in advance!
  15. This NSM Model 5SE speakers are in excellent overall condition. Come with grills, manuals, original box. They are an acoustically matching pair, serial numbers confirm that. My price is $200. New they were selling for $499 and they still command excellent value. The review below summarizes my impressions of them. It is hard to buy speakers of this quality now, especially SE version of Model 5 with all the upgrades. The Model 5 Signature Edition is a hot rod version of the Model 5. The cabinet is a hand rubbed white Russian Baltic birch plywood cabinet, long known for its anti-resonant properties and sonic quality. The Model 5 SE is hot rodded with Superior ™ binding posts, polypropelene capacitor by-passed with film foil capacitor, metal oxide resistor, and DH Labs silver sonic internal wire. Imagine sound, imaging, and soundstaging even more exquisite than that of the standard Model 5. Buyer pays actual shipping and PP fees. I have perfect scores on Audiogon and eBay if you need to see them just let me know. Buy with confidence and please review detailed hi-res pictures. SPECIAL FEATURES: Magnetically shielded Time Coherent Point Source Design: time-aligned, two-way, first-order, point source, acoustic suspension Drivers: 1 inch soft dome, ferro-cooled tweeter, 4.5 inch carbon fiber full-range driver Crossovers: 18 AWG laminated copper inductor, polypropeline capacitor, non-inductive wire wound resistor, multi-strand copper to tweeter, inductor is wired directly between full-range driver and terminal. Cabinet: acoustic suspension Connectors: gold plated copper five-way binding posts Review summarizes it best, they are truly holographic: "The only speaker I could find that could cast a more rock-solid center image is the utterly minuscule, stupidly-good-at-the-price, ... NSM Model 5SE, which shoots images in the room like a laser and beats out just about any speakers in this regard. The little NSMT presents center-placed vocal images as if they are right THERE, like a softball hovering in the air. It's almost eerie and, no doubt, the Model 5's fit-in-the-palm-of-your-hand size helps."
  16. David here - I'm rolling it over in my mind about getting a pr of stereo speakers (No Surround). I have a budget of less then $500.00 (New or Used). I don't want book shelf speakers, but floor standing instead. I am not into "Bass" at all and can always add a Sub-Woofer later. My room is 13' x 14'. I live in the Gadsden, Al area and believe me we have no audio stores where I can go and listen to speakers. I "Googled" the Birmingham area for audio stores and they have 8 stores - But they are all for Mobile Audio!! I have to rely on the internet specs and info from you good folks! I'm a senior and mainly listen to Classical, Jazz, Easy Listening. Remember BASS is not high on my needs list!! I have a Pioneer VSX-822k Receiver, 80 Watts per channel! Tks for any help
  17. Maybe I am trying to do too much with one thread, but here is my situation. I have a budget of roughly $1000 to put towards new sound equipment for my gaming PC. I currently have a set of Logitech 5.1 speakers that I bought about 10 years ago for under $60 that I am using in 2.1 configuration, a Logitech desktop microphone that has since been discontinued, and a pair of Hesh headphones that do a decent job. I am looking to replace all of these. My budget allocation is $150 for mic, $250 for headphones, and $600 for speakers. However, I don’t know much about what brand does what when it comes to speakers and headphones, so I figured I’d post my budget and my needs and see if you guys have some good suggestions. Speakers: $600 I live in an apartment, so volume and bass are not my primary goals. What I want is longevity and clarity. The quieter I can have my speakers while still understanding everything that is being said on that TV show, the better. I only need stereo speakers in 2.0 configuration (a subwoofer is not desired, as I think the thumps it provides are the worst offenders against happy apartment neighbors). While I’m not looking for something that can be heard in the next building, I do want to be able to clearly hear what is going on when I am in the next room if I turn up the volume during the day. I also would like fairly long cords for a desktop computer, with the assumption there are several monitors between them (wireless is a no-no). I prefer black speakers, but the color isn’t a necessity. The price cap should include anything else required to make them work. I don’t know much about audio equipment to know if an amplifier is needed, but if it is, factor that into the cost. Headphones: $250 I’ve heard that open headphones are better than closed headphones, so these are something I would like to try. Once again, I’m looking primarily for clarity. Leather or fake leather pads are much preferred to cloth/foam style pads. Circumaural is my preferred style. The headphones must be wired, and microphone should NOT be included. I am not going to use the microphone on the headphones, so I don’t want to pay for one. Also, I would like a solution to easily change from headphones to speakers, and to control the volume of the headphones. Microphone: $150 I would like to change to something that isn’t taking up desk real estate. I have plenty of room behind my desk that isn’t being used, that could be used for a mic boom. I would like a studio-style microphone with pop filter and a floor stand. Of course, all black. I don’t have a super huge budget hear, because I do care more about what I hear than what others hear. If you can suggest a better way to allocate my resources (i.e. take $50 off the microphone budget to add to the headphone budget) that is fine, but there is a hard cap of $1000. To recap, this thousand would be for: *Stereo speakers with a focus on clarity *Open stereo headphones with leather-style circumaural pads *Recording studio-style microphone with a floor stand I know next to nothing about what brands do what when it comes to audio equipment, so I’d like suggestions on what best fits my desires within my price range. Thanks!
  18. I extensively use beyerdynamic T 1 headphones with Benchmark DAC 2 D (well, happened). The cord limits mobility somewhat, plus I would love to have a little more "stage". I am happy with the sound, but want a change at times. The thinking is to get an amped 2.1 system under $3000. Specifically I thought of Genelec G Three with their F Two subwoofer (like in the "systems" tab here) off of the same DAC. But those Genelecs are not available around Chicago to listen to. Even if I would like it, showrooms sound very differently than my office. So, a few questions: Is my assumption realistic that I can find a sound setup comparable to what I have at the price I target? Is it a good idea anyway? What would be your choice of a system like that? Thank you!
  19. Please help me figure out what type of speakers these are. Thanks!
  20. EDIT: -- sorry should have posted in room treatment Forum. Will repost there. I am not sure what size room I may end up with yet, but I'm intrigued about the idea of placing speakers on a diagonal, that is, with their back side facing a corner of the room, rather than one of the short walls. Decware has an article the describes this. DECWARE - Article about Setting up a Listening Room without Treatments I've seen some folks post photos of their listening rooms that are set up this way. Theoretically, you can get better imaging and better overall staging in a relatively small room. Anyone using this configuration? What is your experience. Thinking through a couple of configurations will help me figure which room might be best in my house, and what modifications may be required. (another interesting concept is using a closet as a bass trap).
  21. These speakers are in like-new condition and sound great. They come with the original boxes and packing material. Asking Price $1100 Product description Get complete entertainment in your personal space with the Anthony Gallo Reference Strada speaker. The 45Hz to 40Khz frequency response from this Anthony Gallo center speaker delivers crystal clear audio quality. The 8 ohms nominal impedance of this Anthony Gallo speaker balances the tonal output irrespective of the power fluctuations. Moreover, the Cylindrical Diaphragm Transducer tweeter of this Anthony Gallo center speaker delivers an enhanced musical effect. The 5 way gold plated binding posts of this Anthony Gallo speaker provides with an error free audio quality. The Anthony Gallo Reference Strada speaker with the powder coated stainless steel grilles and aluminum chassis with brushed stainless steel spheres give a unique charm to your interiors. Product Identifiers Brand Anthony Gallo Model Strada Key Features Speaker Type Center Speaker Construction 2-Way Technical Details Peak Power Handling 150 W Frequency Responses 45 Hz - 40 kHz Impedance 8 ohm Sensitivity 87 dB Dimension Width 5 in. Depth 7.52 in. Height 13.5 in. Reviews: http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/gallo10/strada.html http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/article/gallo-acoustics-nucleus-reference-strada-speakers
  22. Hi there. I've got a sound system already set up (i'll describe it later) and I want to add to it. I want to add speakers that would be connected wireless to the main setup and then placed in my bathroom. I rent, so I can't be running cables through the walls to speakers I would have embedded into the bathroom walls. I want to place speakers on a shelf next to a power outlet and have them get their feed from the main system located in my living room. I don't know the best way to get the feed from my system to the bathroom speakers, also I would like suggestions about what speakers would best suite my bathroom. Here i'll describe my setup. There are two devices currently that produce sound. One is an entertainment PC, and my XBox 360. Both have their audio outputs connected to my TV. This way I can use the one remote to control the output volume of either device. My TV is a Vizio VO320E. My TV then sends its audio to a 4 channel mixer via RCA audio output. The Mixer is a Eurorack UB802. I use this mixer so that I can plug in other devices on the fly if I so choose (ipod, droid bionic, guitars, etc...) as well as play with the EQ on the fly. The main out from the mixer is then sent to my Pioneer amp (VSX-D209) and then to my Fisher STV-9238 speakers and Panasonic SB-WA54 sub woofer. The entrance to the bathroom is located about 15ft from the mixer. The bathroom isn't terribly large and has no sound deadening really, so there is a bit of reverb generated by the bathroom itself. Ideally I'd like to have the hypothetical bathroom speakers get their feed from either the mixer or Pioneer amp. If we can keep it on the cheap that'd be ideal, but suggestions geared towards optimum quality would also do nicely. Hopefully someone has thought of a scenario like this or has dealt with a similar dilemma as well. Thanks in advance, I'm looking forward to hearing your brainstorming. Panopticon36
  23. Hello, I recently built my very first PC and would like to get into high end audio. It will be used 50/50 for gaming and music. I don't play FPS games and my favorite genre of music is (alternative) rock. I'm looking to buy bookshelf speakers, headphones, and a DAC. The $5,000 budget is highly flexible. The area where I use my PC is very open. I'm in the middle of the downstairs, leading to everywhere else in the house (stairs behind me, kitchen to my left, TV room to my right). I don't know the exact measurements but I can say the ceiling is about 8.5 feet high. I don't need the sound to travel throughout the house, as I'll be the only one listening to it and I'll be right in front of my computer. The speakers I'm interested in are the KEF LS 50 and B&W PM-1. The headphones I'm interested are the Sennheiser HD800 and Audeze LCD3. I have no idea which DAC to buy, I assume it will depend on the speakers/headphones I choose. In a few days I will be going to a local audio store and testing out my top choices, so your input is highly valued and appreciated. Thanks for your time and suggestions!
  24. I need a new stereo setup. I'm a music lecturer and I only listen to classical music. Orchestral, piano, voice, lots of new music, some with electronics etc… My office is small, about 9' x 14'. The thin end has a window all the way along, and I usually sit facing the window at a desk. I will be using my Macbook Pro Retina with a Meridian Explorer as the main source. Sometimes I listen to LPs, but I don't have a fancy LP player and won't be buying one. Most of the music I listen to is from CD, sometimes online (soundcloud, youtube… sad but true, all necessary for work). I mostly sit at my computer, and so I need something that can sit on my desk. (I think this is really a constraint. I have thought about rearranging my room around some speakers, but I'm not sure how practical this would be given how small the room is (the rest of the walls are lined with bookcases). I can imagine speakers standing in the middle of the room might get knocked over etc… But I'm open to ideas) I really have no idea where to start looking. At home I have some Tanoy R3s and Denon amp, 755AR CD player etc.. and I like the sound (or at least I did when I was a teenager and bought it, and now I'm totally used to the sound). At the moment at work I mostly listen to music with Denon AH-D2000s a I can't help but want a bit more clarity from my speakers than I used to. The Explorer sounds a treat. I don't have endless money (hard working lecturer). But I think about 2000-3000 on some speakers and an amp might be ok. What proportion do I spend on an amp? Do I get one with phono? or use the cheap preamp I bought for my LP player (I think so)? What do I gain over spending less? Or more? Is there a good argument either way? As I often have neighbours, I need to a system that sounds ok at low volume and in the office space. Though I don't have neighbours on weekends and holidays (hard working lecturer, right?!) and over the summer when other people work from home. I'd like this to be a one-off purchase, rather than part of a continual upgrade project. I have the money now and I'd like to still think it sounds sweet in 15+ years. If I need to spend a touch more then I'd rather get it right. Thoughts? Thanks in advance!
  25. I need help deciding which way to go regarding building my nearfield, desktop audio system, with 2-3 feet between speaker and ear. I am building a high value, moderate cost, but high quality system for my computer, a PC running JRiver being fed by uncompressed WAV files from my NAS. I consider myself a high-value audiophile, and my music taste is every eclectic (jazz, classical, pop/rock, bluegrass/country), but mainly acoustic (though I love Pink Floyd). I will be looking at both self-powered and passive speakers. The speakers currently on my radar include: Focal 706V, Focal 705V, KEF Q300, KEF Q100, KEF LS50, KEF X300A (powered), Focal XS Book (powered), Emotiva Pro airmotiv4/5/6/Stealth6 (powered), Adam A5x (powered), Audioengine P4, and Audioengine A5+ (powered). If I go for passive speakers, I would add a modest USB DAC/amp (possibly NuForce DDA-100 or TEAC AH-01) to drive the speakers. Powered speakers such as the Emotiva’s, Focal XS Book and Audioengine A5+ would need USB DAC (Schiit Bifrost Uber), while the KEF X300A would not require anything else. My first decision would have to be regarding which speakers. Sound quality is my main concern, as I desire speakers that are transparent and refined, and will tolerate sins of omission more than sins of commission. I also am concerned about the drivers integrating coherently at 2-3 feet distance. I would expect that the KEF Uni-Q drivers would have an advantage in this respect. Would the larger Focal 706V work well in a nearfield, desktop application, and its drivers integrate at 2-3 feet between speaker and ear? I am familiar with Focal drivers, as 15 years ago as I built a set of DALINE transmission line speakers using twin Focal 6.5" Polyglass drivers and Focal Tioxid tweeters in D'Appolito towers (double boxed, with high purity silver wiring). These are still my reference speakers driven by my DIY Nelson Pass bi-amp Zen mono-block amps (single stage, Class A), DIY Bride of Son of Zen preamp (Class A), with DIY high purity silver interconnects and speaker cable. I am totally unfamiliar with the sound quality of the KEF, Emotiva, Adam, and Audioengine speakers, though they seem to be well thought of. What are your suggestions/comments regarding the electronic options between the NuForce DDA-100 and TEAC AH-01? (Though the TEAC has $100 higher MSRP, it can be bought about $200 cheaper.) What are your suggestions/comments regarding the following system options, in a nearfield, desktop application: 1) KEF X300A (5.25” Uni-Q, bi-amp, DAC), nothing else necessary, ($800 retail, $800 street) 2) KEF Q300 (6.5” Uni-Q) with: a. NuForce DDA-100, (total system: $1,200 retail, $1,050 street) b. TEAC AH-01, (total system: $1,300 retail, $850 street) 3) KEF Q100 (5.25” Uni-Q) with: a. NuForce DDA-100, (total system: $1,100 retail, $950 street) b. TEAC AH-01, (total system: $1,200 retail, $750 street) 4) KEF LS50 (5.25” Uni-Q) with: a. NuForce DDA-100, (total system: $2,050 retail, $1,650 street) b. TEAC AH-01, (total system: $2,150 retail, $1,400 street) 5) Focal 706V (6.5” Polyglass woofer, 1” Al/Mg TNV tweeter) with: a. NuForce DDA-100, (total system: $1,250 retail, $950 street) b. TEAC AH-01, (total system: $1,350 retail, $750 street) 6) Focal 705V (5.25” Polyglass woofer, 1” Al/Mg TNV tweeter) with: a. NuForce DDA-100, (total system: $1,050 retail, $875 street) b. TEAC AH-01, (total system: $1,150 retail, $675 street) 7) Focal XS Book (powered, 4.0” Polyglass woofer, 0.75”Al tweeter) with: a. Schiit Bifrost Uber USB DAC, (total system: $920 retail, $820 street) b. Other USB DAC ??? 8) Audioengine P4 (4” Kevlar woofer, 0.75” silk tweeter) with: a. NuForce DDA-100, (total system: $800 retail, $800 street) b. TEAC AH-01, (total system: $900 retail, $600 street) 9) Audioengine A5+ (powered, 5” Kevlar woofer, 0.75” silk tweeter) with: a. Schiit Bifrost Uber USB DAC, (total system: $920 retail, $920 street) b. Other USB DAC ??? 10) Emotiva Pro airmotiv4 (bi-amp, 4.5” woofer, Heil tweeter) with: a. Schiit Bifrost Uber USB DAC, (total system: $870 retail, $870 street) b. Other USB DAC ??? 11) Emotiva Pro airmotiv5 (bi-amp, 5.25” woofer, Heil tweeter) with: a. Schiit Bifrost Uber USB DAC, (total system: $970 retail, $970 street) b. Other USB DAC ??? 12) Emotiva Pro airmotiv6 (bi-amp, 6.5” woofer, Heil tweeter) with: a. Schiit Bifrost Uber USB DAC, (total system: $1,220 retail, $1,220 street) b. Other USB DAC ??? 13) Emotiva Pro Stealth6 (bi-amp, 6.5” woofer, Heil tweeter) with: a. Schiit Bifrost Uber USB DAC, (total system: $1,620 retail, $1,620 street) b. Other USB DAC ??? 14) Adam A5x (bi-amp, 5.5” woofer, X-ART tweeter) with: a. Schiit Bifrost Uber USB DAC, (total system: $1,520 retail, $1,520 street) b. Other USB DAC ??? So my current possibilities run from $600 (Audioengine P4, w/ TEAC AH-01) to $1,650 (KEF LS50, w/ NuForce DDA-100). I will be looking for best bang for the buck, but willing to pay up for meaningful SQ improvement. I would also value to non-powered speaker options slightly higher due to more future flexibility. Your suggestions/comments are welcome. Thanks!