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Found 30 results

  1. Hello, I installed the Dev Beta 2 of High Sierra today on a new partition... yes i have a backup I wanted to see if it was better for A+ with the new Finder coding and see if some bugs would disapear for me like the stoping of A+ playing for no reason for 1 or 2 seconds once a week. For me, A+ have still troubles like others before High Sierra with the System Optimizer installing at first... in fact, i had to put back my preferemces of Sierra to make it works again Direct Mode is out also as it is dead since Sierra. I didn't try to replace de .ktext again to make it work because SuperDuper couldn't see my hard disk formatted for High Sierra new scheme thing. Onyx doesn't work either at this stage to repair the permissions after... So i enjoy A+ 3.0.7 like it is now, HQPlayer 3 still works and JRiver 22 also. I putted back my A+ music database folder where it is supposed to be and my preferences for A+ software, and all was back like before with playlists included The best thing for me with High Sierra, is now i can use the keyboard like it was before Sierra... Making the folder you clicked disappear while holding the ALT key to just keep the next one you have selected... and so on, to just have only one folder at a time open in the finder while browsing my music hard disc. SO GLAD that it is back for me!! The Remote of A+ still works with my iPhone like before and my IOS application 'Remote Mouse' on the Mac and iPhone still control my MacMini on the TV with the iPhone if i want. Parallels Desktop is still working with windows 10 installed on Mac Mini... nothing to do with music but needed by me That's it for now. Enjoying music on High Sierra
  2. There are several shell-scripts floating around (including one I made many years ago) that turn off a vast number of lanchd processes for OS X, which often have the perhaps undesirable effect of completely hosing the system. As an alternative, I have been watching /var/log/system.log to find clues about what might be problematic, and what I want to do is selectively target a few "processes" by understanding what they do, and then turn them off individually, to see if there is any difference (audible, or at least in terms of spamming the log file). I'd like this thread to become a "hit list" of processes that are unambiguously useless. (In other words, I don't want to turn off wireless or bluetooth -- this should be up to the individual user, and is easy enough to do anyway). What I want to do is target a few problem children that are unlikely to have any utility, especially if they are broken, and understand what they do, in case I change my mind (or discover an unintended consequence).
  3. There are articles online and in print that discuss the joys of using a Mac Mini as a music server. Just plug it in, the articles say. I am here to tell you that it is substantially more difficult than it sounds. My aim is to run the Mini "headless" and control it with an Ipad. I thought I would share a few issues that I have encountered with you and get the thoughts of the learned many who read these forums. Wake up. My Mini is part of a TV and music system that is controlled by the RTI system. It's easy enough to have the RTI bring up the Mini. But at that point, the Mini is asleep. It only needs a mouse click or a carriage return to wake it up but how do you do that? Right now, there is a mouse on my coffee table but that just doesn't seem right. I know this is not an RTI forum but does anyone have any ideas? Audio connection. As I said, I am trying to run headless. But sometimes you need a screen, especially when you are getting things up and running. The screen in this case is the TV for the system but perhaps in the future it would be a small monitor. The problem is, how do you run separate video and audio signals from the Mini? If you use HDMI for audio, which works great, by the way, then the tv has to be on. If you turn off the TV, then the audio goes away. Can I use the Thunderbolt port for video? Would I be happy with using the mini Toslink port for audio? That's it for right now. Any input will be greatly appreciated. Tim
  4. I'm going to have some basic questions, the first of which is about ripping. The articles in CA academy on ripping are 6yrs old. The "what format" is probably more accurate now than ever given the plunging prices of storage. However, while the overall strategy is probably still relevant, the software references seem very out of date. GD3's software still references Windows XP, Vista or 7, not exactly current and no mention of OSX. I'm on a Mac so obviously I can use iTunes to rip to AIFF. Is there some other software that is a superior solution? Thanks!
  5. Just a quick note to those whom use a Mac Mini for their music server (headless) as I do, to note that the graphics performance of the El Capitan Beta OS is working well for me. I control the headless Mac Mini from a rMacBook Pro laptop which I have also upgraded to El Capitan Beta. As a long time Mac Man, I think different and don't mind bleeding on the edge… As noted above, the graphics speed of scrolling through the 6,038 albums in my current iTunes library, is VERY fast. The new Metal part of the graphics performance upgrade seems to be quite a nice kick in the pants. As to sound quality and other such, I'll let you folks debate that. Most of you should wait until the 'official' release… but since I have upgraded two of my three rigs, and all seems to be working fine, I thought I would take a moment and add to my infrequent post count and share a bit of information that could perhaps be if interest to the Mac folks here. I'll wait for the fall release prior to upgrading my MacPro, I need to get actual work done with it. My mac's are all one generation old now, but are all top of the line models with max ram, the mini is a dual core i7. Your milage may vary, it goes without saying. But there is something worth having in the next Mac OS upgrade, which might be of use for many of us. Enjoy the music…
  6. Hi folks, Like many of you, I keep switching from one music player application to another, in pursuit of the best sound/experience combination. Lately I've come back to the JRMC+JRemote combination, which (at this point in time, for me) seems to be the best one currently. Yes, HQPlayer possibly sounds the best, and maybe I haven't spent enough time fiddling with it, but its spartan user interface (and complex options) makes it too difficult to use (again, for me), and even more so over an iPad Parallels Access remote connection (I especially hate that the iPad keyboard comes up every time I do anything simple, like change tracks) even for simple use, let alone playlist setups. I love the Audirvana sound and its native Mac interface, but (and maybe I'm doing it wrong) I've never been able to figure out how to reliably set up playlists that survive library changes, and even at its best, trying to control Audirvana via the iPad (even with the great Parallels Access automatic full-screen function) is way too fiddly. And the Amarra interface is so ugly (reminds me of a 90's era WinAmp skin) I just can't bear to use it (yup perhaps I care too much about the aesthetics...). So, until Audirvana gets its iPad remote app (hopefully soon...), I'm (at least this week!) back to JRMC+JRemote. JRemote really is fantastic - I've tried the Linn Kinsky and other remote apps, but only JRemote feels like a non-beta, mature app. Also, the latest version of JRMC now has a great "Pono" (heh!) skin which gives it close to a true Mac native Yosemite app appearance (thank god!). So, so far, so good. Decent SQ from the Mac player. Decent iPad remote experience. However, the one viper in this acoustic Garden of Paradise that crops up again and again, is the tendency of JRMC to crash. Repeatedly. Whenever I try to change tracks too quickly. Essentially, if I start playing a track, and then, within 2-3 seconds I try playing another track, JRMC crashes to the desktop, with the usual OS X Crash Report window showing up. If not the first time, then the 2nd or 3rd time I do the rapid track change thingy. Yes, 100% reproducible. So, why not just avoid this silly behaviour, you say... Well, unfortunately for me my missus and house guests do sometimes use the system too, and it's not practicable to conduct pre-use training for everyone! Enter Lingon, by a (I think) Swedish developer called Peter Borg. https://www.peterborgapps.com/lingon/ With Lingon X 2.0 (there is also a crippled version, Lingon 3.0 on the Mac App Store, which I haven't tried due to bad reviews) I've been able to (extremely easily and quickly) get JRMC to automatically restart every time it crashes. JRemote is also pretty good in that it pretty much automatically re-establishes a connection with JRMC whenever this happens (although one sometimes needs to hit the refresh icon to fix some playlist errors). Kudos, to this Peter Borg fellow, for Lingon, and for keeping it really cheap ($5 to $10). However, the frequent JRMC crashes really bug me, notwithstanding the above band-aid fix. Is this "crash on rapid track changes" problem unique to my system, or does anyone else experience it? If so, I was curious if anybody had a suggestion as to how I can fix it? Many thanks in advance! Art
  7. Apologies if this has been answered previously, but my search didn't turn up anything definitive. My question: Are there any up-to-date, Yosemite-compatible Mac apps that allow for remote control of iTunes on a headless mini using another Mac (like a MacBook Air) rather than an iPad or iPhone? I know there used to be some apps, but none of them seem to have been updated recently. I also know I could use screen sharing, but that seems like overkill, and I am also concerned that the resources demanded by Screen Sharing could possibly cause the mini's fan to spin faster, creating a noise issue in my listening room. I would be grateful for any tips or advice. Thanks!
  8. Hi folks, Firstly, wishing everyone here a very Happy New Year's Eve tonight! I've only recently started posting here, and am really grateful for the expert advice so far. This new "problem" is one that's been bugging me for a while, and I'm sure I'm missing a simple solution! THE BACKGROUND I currently have my main "Hifi" (Macbook/Audirvana/Hugo/Amp/Speakers) setup in my Living Room, have my music housed on my home server (Mac Mini/RAID) in my Study Room, and sometimes also listen to music at my Home Theater setup (Mac Mini/Plex or iTunes/Bose LifeStyle 535), which also serves to pipe music throughout my home in ceiling speakers. Everything is connected via Gigabit Ethernet. My home theater setup is a simple one, just a TV and a Bose LifeStyle 535 V35 receiver connected to both a local 5.1 surround sound speaker set and also to my home-wide speakers (ceiling speakers). In addition to the Mac Mini running Plex or iTunes mentioned above, sources for this also include my Blu-Ray player, Cable TV, Satellite TV, etc, and a: Toslink Optical from an Airport Express, which in turn gets its input from my main Hifi setup in my Living Room via AirPlay from Audirvana Plus 2.0 (in standalone mode). THE ISSUES The music coming through my home-wide speakers via the above last setup (Living Room Hifi Audirvana -> Airplay -> Ethernet -> Airport Express -> Toslink Optical -> Bose V35 Receiver -> Homewide amps and speakers) is pretty crappy at the moment (very muddy across the entire range). Just to be clear, I control the music via the Living Room Hifi Audirvana, i.e., I set the Bose V35 Receiver to channel the Airport Express source in "passive mode" (that is to say I turn the Bose on, set the source, and then go back to the Living Room). While the Bose V35 and the home speakers aren't fantastic by any means, the "normal" quality (e.g. from the local sources - Blu-Ray or even the local Mac Mini running Plex/iTunes) is still much better than what I am getting from the above path from my main Hifi. POSSIBLE CAUSES 1. Lack of a discrete DAC in the above path? 2. Downsampling by AirPlay/Airport Express of all files to 44/16? 3. Ethernet cabling quality (the contractor was supposed to have used Cat 6 GigE cabling but I haven't been able to verify...)? POTENTIAL SOLUTIONS CONSIDERED 1. At the Home Theater setup: Insert a DAC between the Airport Express and the Bose Receiver - But will not fix the AirPlay/Airport Express downsampling issue. 2. At the Living Room Hifi setup: change the source of the music going to the Home Theater, from Audirvana/Airplay, to Audirvana/USD/DAC (I'm currently using a Hugo) - But how to get the signal from the Hugo to the Home Theater system? 3. At the Home Theater setup: Get something like an Auralic Aries, with input via Ethernet and output via Toslink optical to the Bose Receiver - But from what I understand, I won't be able to simply "play" my music from the Living Room Hifi Macbook/Audirvana (where I have all my playlists etc set up, and control via Parallels on my iPad), i.e., I am guessing that the Aries would only allow me to control it via its own specialized (Lightning) App, to connect to music on my Study Room/Mac Mini/RAID. Or am I mistaken here? Can the Aries be set up to simply act as a passive conduit between my Living Room/Macbook/Audirvana and the Home Theater/Bose Receiver - in essence an "upgrade" to my existing Airport Express/Airplay connection? YOUR ADVICE REQUESTED My apologies for the long question! However I would really appreciate any advice, as to which of the above 3 solutions would be best - or if there is another fix that I haven't considered! Many, many thanks in advance! Art ____________________________________________ SETUP DETAILS Study Room (Home Server Setup) LaCie 5big Thunderbolt 2 RAID -> 2014 Mac Mini 8GB RAM OS X Server (Music Files stored here) -> Gigabit Ethernet -> Cisco Switch Living Room (Main Hifi Setup) Cisco Switch -> Gigabit Ethernet -> 2014 Macbook Air 13" 8GB RAM -> Audirvana Plus 2.0 in standalone mode -> a) Hugo -> Woo Audio WA5 SET Class A -> Audeze LCD-XC / KEF Speakers b) Airplay -> Gigabit Ethernet Home Theater TV and Bose LifeStyle 535 Receiver, with inputs from: a) Gigabit Ethernet -> Airplay -> Airport Express -> Toslink optical b) 2014 Mac Mini 8GB RAM -> iTunes / Plex c) Blu-Ray / Satellite / Cable etc The Bose Receive outputs through local 5.1 surround speakers and also to the home-wide speakers. NOTES - All Macs running OS X 10.10.1 (Yosemite). - Assume I can't run RCA cables from my Main Hifi system DAC to the Home Theater (2 rooms away).
  9. Is it really possible that there is no alternative iTunes Remote in the App Store? The Apple own solution feels a little outdated in comparison to the the JRemote. Did I miss something?
  10. I've got several HD albums, of varying lossless quality. I'm using an iMac (2013, i7) with Audirvana Plus and an external DAC. My iPods are the iPod Classic, 4th Gen iPod Touch, 6th Gen iPod nano, iPad Air, and iPhone 5S. I've converted all my higher quality Apple Lossless files to 24/48 and 24/44.1 Apple Lossless (depending upon the original sample rate) using XLD. Questions: 1. Will all the iPods play those bit rates @ 24bit depth? 2. Am I correct in assuming that the highest quality files that will play on iPods is 24/44.1 & 24/48? The 4th Gen Touch will probably be used in my car as the main source for my 2009 Infiniti G37x, which requires an old-school 30-pin adapter. The other iPods have no radios of any kind (bluetooth, wifi) or a camera, so I can use them at work (govt contractor). I will likely eventually get an HD player of some sort to use at work, but I like the convenience of the iPod connected to my car stereo. Can I assume that most of them do NOT have any radios or camera inside them? (fiio X5 and Pono) Eventually, I will attempt to rip my records to 24/96 or higher, if I can figure out the best way to do it. I have a VPI Traveller with a Dynavector 10-X5 cartridge. What is the best sub-$1000 way to get my records to digital, given the setup I already have? Am I better off just buying a lesser-quality USB turntable? I'm having a hard time finding an ADC made for this purpose. Thanks! I hope this isn't too much for one post.
  11. Hello, I am currently controlling my Mac Mini using the standard screen sharing. But if no display adapter is connected to it, the refresh rate is very slow. I've read many others suffer from this. I read that there is a way to tweak a VGA adapter using a simple resistor and this way have the Mac Mini think it has a display connected to it. To all the headless mac mini people out there: Is this the way everyone is doing it? Or is there a simpler way? Thanks, Nuno
  12. Hi I just unboxed an Airport Express (small one that looks like AppleTV) about 2 hours ago. My AudioLab 8200CD reports "No Lock" intermittently about once a second. My previous express (previous model) never had this problem but it died. I tried firmware 7.6.3 and 7.6.4 and performance remains the same. I have tried streaming from iTunes on a MacBook Air 13, an iMac 27 and a Mac Mini; they all exhibit the same issue. The Macbook Air and Airport Express are in line of site to each other and within 6 meters of each other. Is there any solution? ***PS, My Apple TV 2 works absolutely fine - I just swap it out for the airport express but I wanted to use the express for 44.1KHz. Thanks in advance.
  13. Hi, New here, based in the UK. My old CD player packed up and a friend of mine who is a serious hi-end HiFi enthusiast kindly bought me a Schiit Modi. Since I have so much music on my Macbook now, and have stopped buying CDs, he said it would be a convenient way of listening to my collection. It arrived yesterday, with leads supplied. I plugged the leads into the back of the Modi and my amp (an old Rotel) and plugged the USB lead into the Modi and my Macbook and... Nothing... Zilch... Nada. The power light on the Modi stays off and nothing happens on the Macbook. I spent the morning using the Schiit troubleshooting guide, changed the leads, USB ports, input to amp and still nothing. Any suggestions? Sort of tricky, because I don't want to contact my friend (it seems a little ungenerous since he was kind enough to buy it for me) and i don't know where he bought it. Of course, if I have to, I will, but would rather not. On a relatively new Macbook (OS 10.7.5). Tim
  14. Hi everybody, as I found out "Wavepad" is widely unknown to this forum. It is only mentioned in one post. That is why I registered. Apparently nobody around here abused this audio editing software in order to just play music. To my ears its audio engine is very good; I also have Logic Studio and Audirvana+, but Wavepad presents you all the little details you missed. There is a catch, though. It is not a proper player, i. e. there is no player functionality whatsoever, it is all manual. You can download a trial version for free which will turn into a restricted demo version after a while - still good enough to play your stuff. There is also a PC version. wavepad download source btw: I am not associated with nch in any way.
  15. Hi all, I am writing this post to suggest that Sonic Studio includes in the next release of Amarra a companion App for iOS devices to provide full control of Amarra in a headless mac. I love the sound of current version of Amarra (Symphony) 2.5 I use a headless Mac Pro (tower) exclusively for Audio, and have trimmed down the OS (Mountain Lion) and disabled features as much as I could following many advices from other users. I only use Amarra in cache mode and playlist mode (without iTunes) an I quit the finder. Surprisingly, every single step improves the sound even though the computer is running almost at iddle (from Terminal "top" command). The remaining piece to get rid of is Screen Sharing. I use and iPad to control the headless mac with VNC software iTap. It works perfectly from the user point of view. But if I disable Screen Sharing, the already excellent sound gets even better. The processor does not have to take care of updating the screen and sending over the network to the iPad. However in order to use Amarra in the current setup, I need to have access to the Mac screen (with Screen Sharing). Spotify has two remote solutions (Spot Remote and Remoteless) that use a small server application in the Mac which is much lighter at using CPU resources, and the sound - without Screen Sharing and with the small server app - is better than with Screen Sharing enabled operating directly Spotify on the iPad clone of the Mac Screen. I also own Audirvana+ and even though I personally prefer Amarra Symphony, a remote App for Audirvana+ would be a welcome addition too. My expectation is that getting rid of Screen Sharing through the use of a custom remote App for Amarra or Audirvana+ may bring further improvements in sound quality than another iteration of the already fine sounding engines. Sorry if I became too technical or not too clear but for those avandced users I recommend experimenting at improving the Mac sound if it is used only for computer audio. It costs no money and you are rewarded with better sound. Regards, Jotauve.
  16. Hello , i'm Alex from France ( I don't know if there is an introduction post so please excuse me if i'm being rude ) I've got a tubemagic d1 plus for a week , using it on a macbook pro (snow leopard) with audirvana plus. It can handle 24/96 on USB and 24/192 on optical (I'm using a wireworld mini toslink to toslink) Being a newby, i've got a few questions 1) is it normal that, : - the sound is greatly better using USB vs optical (wireworld mini toslink to toslink cable) - audirvana can't enable integer mode with optical whereas USB can 2) when I got into Mac os x "Audio and midi set up" , I can see the mavaudio tubemagic tab and property (2 in and 2 out) but when I set (for in or out) the audio settings to 96khz and 2ca 24bit system's not Working. Indeed it's only working when one sets mav audio settings to 2ca 16bit. the question is : does it mean i'm listenning at 16bit ? what can I do to make it better ? Thanks a lot Alex
  17. The heading raises a question Ive been trying to get my head around today. Ive been using Laconvolver in Au lab with room correction filters from Audiolense, but theres been a hickup or two, so I tried out ir1a by mellowmuse which is a protools plugin that do the same. Basically to get stable use. However, the weird thing is thats I think they sound different with the same filter. True, db level matching is hard to do with two plugins, but to me ir1a sounds more spacious, with better soundstage and more ambience.. LaConvolver sounds harsh in comparison. To me this is strange. Anyone have any experience to share? ole
  18. Hi everyone, I'm new both in this forum and in the audiophile world. I've a problem whit the optical output on my iMac. I bought a Dac (a Beresford Bushmaster Dac) and I connected it via toslink to my iMac with Mountain Lion Osx, now the problem: when i try to play files until 48kHz it's all ok, but when i try to play some file at 88kHz or 96 or higher the sound is distorted... or better it's not sound coming out but it seems like scratches ("scrrrr"). If i plug the toslink cable to my macbook pro with Lion all works correctly... Can someone help me i don't want to change the Dac (or the Osx...). Thanks all in advance and sorry for my bad bad english. Riccardo.
  19. Hi all, I have an extensive collection of FLAC's ripped and tagged by XLD on a Macbook Pro which may be storing the album art within the FLAC (according to the settings). Musicbrainz Picard is used to retag some albums that XLD seems to have got wrong or to change some details to make more sense (i.e. 'DJ Tiesto' also appears under 'Tiesto' which needs correcting). Playback is via VLC on my MBP or via XBMC on a MacMini or old PC running XBMCLive. iTunes is not used at all. Now...I am trying to download album and artist art to store in each of the directories of Artist->Album->files... Are there any Mac based album art downloaders/alternative taggers that can download the usual album.jpg/cover.jpg type files based on an existing directory structure and files? Best, Steve
  20. Please can anyone suggest an application or method which can rip an audio dvd which just contains UNIX executable files ending in .AOB and .VOB. Nothing I have seems willing to look at them. I would have thought I should be able to unpack them to get the important bits out but, so far, no joy. The tracks are 24/192 HDAD two channel. I want to get 24/192 AIFF files. Cheers. Drew
  21. How do I get 5.1 dolby digital surround sound from imac? Hi everyone, I am very very new to this forum so if I do something inappropriate, I apologize for that. =) Here are my questions. I have got a mid 2007 iMac and a Creative inspire p7800 7.1 speaker. What I want to do is to hear 5.1 dolby digital surround sound from the creative speaker (which does not support DD and DTS like Logitech z5500 and Logitech Z906 do). I have done tons of research and spend a lots of time in the internet to look for answers. I did find some solution on this issue but I am not 100% sure. And some more questions pop up. So I am hoping that some expert here can clear my mind. Thank you so much ^^ So, here is some solution that I got from the internet. (please correct me if I am wrong) 1. Buy a Griffin Firewave and connect it to my mac and thats all I need to do. As Griffin Firewave has dolby digital processor, so I think I will be getting 5.1 DD surround sound from the speaker. (Am I right?) Amazon.com: Griffin 4019-FIRESS FireWave Surround Sound for Macs: Electronics But the problem is, there is only one firewave listed on amazon and one listed on ebay. The amazon one is really really expensive that I think it is really unreasonable to buy it. So as I may not able to get a Griffin Firewave, this lead to my second solution. 2. Buy a external sound card like this: Amazon.com: Diamond External Xtreme Sound 7.1-Channel USB Audio Device: Electronics and connect it to the mac. But my question is, As I do not have any Dolby decoding device connected, will I getting 5.1 DD surround sound in my speaker? Or the program in my mac (i.e: VLC) already done the decoding and output as 5.1 multichannel analog so I don't need a extra decoding device? 3. As I am not sure about those method on the above will get 5.1 DD surround sound in my speaker, I keep digging and find out there is actually one more option. Since the iMac supports s/pdif output, what I need is to buy a Digital to Analog converter(DAC) and use the mini Toslink to connect my mac with the DAC. Then connect my speaker to the DAC. Some DAC I found: Amazon.com: Digital to Analog Audio Decoder Converter - Transfer the DTS/AC-3 Digital Signal and Stereo(R/L) Audio Signal into 5.1 Analog Output: Electronics Amazon.com: Digital to Analog Audio Decoder Converter - Transfer the DTS/AC-3 Digital Signal and Stereo(R/L) Audio Signal into 5.1/2.1 Analog Output: Electronics Amazon.com: Sewell Direct SW-29767 Digital to Analog Audio Converter: Electronics and most of DAC support DD/DTS decoding, I should be able to get 5.1 DD surround sound at the end. Is it correct? My question is, is this the right solution to get 5.1 Dolby? If Griffin Firewave is available, will the result of method 1 same as the result of method 3? Or is it better to use a receiver instead of DAC? I know I have so many questions, I hope I did not make it too troublesome. But I really want to know the answer from you guys. I really appreciate for those who read through this. I know my english sucks and cannot express myself very well. I do apologize for that. Anyway, please leave any thought on this, even a sentence or yes/no Thank you sooooooo much Frank
  22. Hello. I'm looking for an advice for app that would let me to edit ID3 tags (including auto track number) and rename bunch of files according tags (with variation mask). Thank you.
  23. I just purchased the hiface1 interface which I have plugged into the back of a mac mini with SL. I've downloaded the software and set my sound output to be the HiFace. I am running it to a Bryston BDA-1 DAC. Software is iTunes with BitPerfect. Is there any other settings I need to set as I am not getting a signal to my DAC? Any help would be appreciated.
  24. I open another Post, cos I'm no asking for the integer mode with Itunes. I'm a user of Audirvana Plus 1.3.5. and I'd like to know if my config is Ok. I think I have the 32 bits version ? Is it change something ? Is it the last one ? Mainly, in audio filters, appear sample rate converter : IZOTOPE 64 BIT- SRC ( for default ) an another option : apple CORE ADUIO. What's best ? Whcich one do I choose ? I copy my debag info if you can see any mistake. Maybe I h dirvana Plus rev. 1.3.5 debug information: running on Mac OS X 10.6.8 Active Sample Rate: 44.1kHz Hog Mode is off Devices found : 1 List of devices: Device #0: ID 0x10d Built-in Output Manufacturer:Apple Inc. Model UID:AppleHDA:78 UID:AppleHDAEngineOutput:8,0,1,2:0 Preferred device: Built-in Output Model UID:AppleHDA:78 UID:AppleHDAEngineOutput:8,0,1,2:0 Selected device: ID 0x10d Built-in Output Manufacturer:Apple Inc. Model UID:AppleHDA:78 UID:AppleHDAEngineOutput:8,0,1,2:0 5 available sample rates up to 96000.0Hz 32000.0 44100.0 48000.0 88200.0 96000.0 Audio buffer frame size : 29 to 4608 frames Current I/O buffer frame size : 1024 Physical (analog) volume control: No Virtual (digital) volume control: No Preferred stereo channels L:1 R:2 DSD capability:Unhandled Simple stereo device: yes Channel mapping: L:Stream 0 channel 0 R:Stream 0 channel 1 1 output streams: Stream ID 0x10e 2 channels starting at 1 8 virtual formats: Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 32bits little endian Float @96.0kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 32bits little endian Float @88.2kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 32bits little endian Float @48.0kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 32bits little endian Float @44.1kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 32bits little endian Float @32.0kHz Non-PCM format: cac3 Non-PCM format: cac3 Non-PCM format: cac3 23 physical formats Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 16bits little endian Signed Integer @96.0kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 16bits little endian Signed Integer @88.2kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 16bits little endian Signed Integer @48.0kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 16bits little endian Signed Integer @44.1kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 16bits little endian Signed Integer @32.0kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 20bits little endian Signed Integer aligned low in 32bit @96.0kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 20bits little endian Signed Integer aligned low in 32bit @88.2kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 20bits little endian Signed Integer aligned low in 32bit @48.0kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 20bits little endian Signed Integer aligned low in 32bit @44.1kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 20bits little endian Signed Integer aligned low in 32bit @32.0kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 24bits little endian Signed Integer aligned low in 32bit @96.0kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 24bits little endian Signed Integer aligned low in 32bit @88.2kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 24bits little endian Signed Integer aligned low in 32bit @48.0kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 24bits little endian Signed Integer aligned low in 32bit @44.1kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 24bits little endian Signed Integer aligned low in 32bit @32.0kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 32bits little endian Float @96.0kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 32bits little endian Float @88.2kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 32bits little endian Float @48.0kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 32bits little endian Float @44.1kHz Mixable linear PCM Interleaved 32bits little endian Float @32.0kHz Non-PCM format: cac3 Non-PCM format: cac3 Non-PCM format: cac3
  25. Hi All: As I have a huge job ahead of me (many thousands) I've got a Nimbie autoloader and XLD to do the job. I have a nice sized NAS and have yet to conclude if I can rip directly to it or if there is a major benefit to ripping to an internal disk and then moving the files. That said, I've posted what I have for XLD settings so far and would greatly appreciate advice from those who are more knowledgable and have done this prior: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gc79gydprn1fqf3/pbu13k6mA-/XLD