Jump to content
Computer Audiophile

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'amplifier'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Reviews
  • CA Academy
  • Audio Shows
  • Bits and Bytes
  • Digital Vinyl
  • The Music In Me


There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


  • Downloads
  • CA Sample Club's Files


  • Equipment
    • General Forum
    • Music Servers
    • DAC - Digital to Analog Conversion
    • Disk Storage / Music Library Storage
    • Networking, Networked Audio, and Streaming
    • Headphones & Speakers
    • Software
    • DSP, Room Correction, and Multi Channel Audio
    • iTunes and Everything Apple
    • Article Comments
  • Music
    • Music Downloads & Streaming
    • Music in General
    • Music Analysis - Objective & Subjective
    • In Memoriam
  • Sponsored Forums
    • Sonore (Sponsored)
    • HDtracks (Sponsored)
    • UpTone Audio (Sponsored)
    • Highend-AudioPC (Sponsored)
    • Abbingdon Music Research / iFi audio (Sponsored)
    • Klipsch (Sponsored)
    • Superphonica
  • CA All Access
    • Buy & Sell Audio and Computer Components
  • Allo's Allo Topics
  • CA Sample Club's Topics
  • CA Sample Club's Q & A

Found 23 results

  1. Brooklyn Amplifier

    Hi - I wasn't sure where on CA to talk about amplifiers, so starting this thread here. With the recent announcement this weekend (or so) at the Munich High-End show that Mytek will make a matching Class D Amplifier for the Brooklyn (called the Brooklyn Amplifier), I thought I would capture the information and what I learn about it (as I have a Brooklyn DAC and want to go Class D for my next amp). Info is very limited other than the release text and images. (no back panel yet). The name is aptly chosen because the Brooklyn AMP fits in the same housing as the DAC, albeit with an inch of extra depth. It will be available in the same silver and black finishes as the Brooklyn DAC. Apart from its elegant looks, the Brooklyn AMP produces 2 x 300 Watts of output power at 8 ohms and drives even the most difficult of loudspeakers with ease. Mytek claims to have created a "triode Class A-sounding Class D" design which will make the Brooklyn AMP relevant for audiophiles worldwide. The expected retail price of the Brooklyn AMP is 1,995 Euro/$, and delivery will start mid-summer 2017.
  2. Hi! - Today while fiddling around with a new DC supply to my DAC with my Amp in standby.. I noticed two small plumes of smoke from the amplifier and the lovely (not) smell of toasting components.. I was surprised to say the least! (as it was in standby - relays not feeding power I assumed). Still not sure what fiddling with a 12vdc supply to my DAC would mean via the balanced XLR to the amp.. So I took the case off for a look and a sniff.. I am not sure whether the caps are potted/bonded and this has discoloured or have my caps started leaking some time ago? Votes please.. Also looking on the rectifiers (where the smoke approx came from) I see white 'speckled dots' I wonder if the 3 ICs (mosfets?) were the things that cooked and boiled their thermo paste onto the rectifiers? Amp still works as I pulled the power quickly. Still amazed at how HUGE the Toroid is in this amp. Not happy tho And now the 'spattered' bridge rectifier PCB?
  3. First Watt

    No, not Nelson Pass (!) But I thought this was an interesting article... https://benchmarkmedia.com/blogs/application_notes/power-amplifiers-the-importance-of-the-first-watt
  4. Are there any data on how often amps hit clipping?
  5. Begrudgingly selling a beloved personal amp from my private collection. The Liquid Carbon is a limited-edition, community-inspired, and carefully-crafted distillation of our Cavalli Audio house sound. There were three runs made, the final ones just have been distributed. Each run consisted of 500 units. The Liquid Carbon is a fully-discrete, fully-balanced, transportable solid-state headphone amplifier that is capable of driving all but the most demanding of headphones - delivering satisfying levels and offering superb driver control for exceptional detail and linearity. It’s fully-balanced as well, on both its inputs and outputs. In fact, whether your DAC has balanced output or not - and chances are that it doesn’t - the Liquid Carbon accounts for that with phase splitters on its single-ended inputs, so that it can “generate” balanced input signals. The Liquid Carbon also features adjustable gain (1X/3X), comprehensive input and output options, and ultra-low output impedance (~0.12 ohm balanced, ~0.08 ohm single-ended). All of the above combine to form something that is truly more than the sum of its parts… an affordable end game headphone amplifier. Includes: Liquid Carbon amp, Audioquest NRG-3 power cable (purchased separately for $100), and original box. $650. Buyer pays shipping and PP fees
  6. So honestly when it comes to hi-fi headphones I'm actually pretty inexperienced and don't really know what I'm doing, anyways I got a pair of HD650s for Christmas and have been using a little Fiio portable amp for them but I know it's not nearly good enough and want to upgrade for better sound quality. The only problem is I have no idea what to get. I know I don't want to spend over $500, but I don't know if I should get a tube amp and DAC, just a tube amp, or an amp/DAC combo thing. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  7. My trip through headphones and speakers was very diverse, but I finally reached the top floors and found out I am completely lost. As the title suggests, I am about to buy one of the AKGs (most likely 712) and it would seem they lie in a territory that cannot be run from basic on-board sound card. Currently there is an MSI B150 GAMING M3 motherboard with an on-board Realtek ALC1150 sitting in my case. According to many articles and forums, on-board sound cards are better and better. ALC1150 seems to be satisfying for normal use. However, it would seem it is not powerful enough to run the 712 PRO. Not enough anything. Under perfect circumstances: 115dB 40 Hz – 15 kHz,dB +0.02, -0.07 THD 0.0043 I might be new to the higher part of audio technology, but I can tell that the picked headphones would be pointless to connect to such card. Frequency 10Hz - 39.8kHz, max input 200mW, impedance 62 ohmu, sensitivity 105dB SPL/V, jack 3.5mm, cable lenght 3 m Do I go for an external sound card like Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Surround HD, something internal? Do I need additional amp, or will the card manage to run the 712s on its own? Asking like this always annoys the hell out of me, makes me feel like my brain failed. However, here ti comes: I would really appreciate help from the skilled and more knowledgeable. Could some good soul offer advice?
  8. Hi, I'm selling a Resonessence Labs Invicta V2 (with the ES9018 chip on the headphone card and additional frequency rate LEDs on the front) purchased new in July 2013 directly from resonessencelabs.com, in superb condition. It's a terrific DAC / source / amp combo. Here's Resonessence's own description on their web page : "Exceptional Value Engineered with more conveniences than a standard DAC Adaptable for home use or in the recording studio. Designed by the chassis designers at IMWorks, and Resonessence engineers intimately familiar with the exceptional ESS Sabre DAC. Designed, produced, and manufactured in Canada. Provides endless hours of high-fidelity audio playback. Minimal amounts of noise and distortion and accurate frequency response Flexible I/O SD card reader for seamless high-resolution sound enjoyment without a computer. No computer, no noise added into the loop. RCA + XLR analog outputs. High-speed USB, Toslink, BNC, AE5. Supports all major audio inputs and outputs Two headphone amplifiers that deliver pristine sound quality." It's in excellent condition bar a few specs of dust that found their way between the OLED screen and the protective cover. There are a few bumps on the Apple remote that is sold with it. It no longer is covered by the warranty. You'll still receive the original invoice, and a letter certifying the transfer of property in English or French. The internal power supply can easily be switched to your country's voltage. I can ship to anywhere in the world, but will give strong priority to European buyers. If I have to send it outside of Europe, you may, depending on certain conditions, have to pay customs taxes. It will be shipped from Paris. Price is 2400 euros. Price includes Paypal but not shipping fees. I am new to these forums but I've participated to head-fi regularly for several years under the same pseudo. If you have any question, don't hesitate to ask me - I'll answer as rapidly as I can !
  9. micro iPhono2 Only everything has been improved Southport, UK – 25th April 2016 The best just made the quantum leap The original iPhono was the ‘benchmark’ phono stage <US$1,000. Only retaining the same design philosophy, we went back to the beginning and designed a ground-up, all-new iPhono2. The design, circuitry and parts are all far-reaching: Ultra-wide gain range – 36dB to astonishing 72dB; suits any cartridge. Whisper quiet – SNR of >86dB, an impressive 10dB quieter than the original. Latest AMR trickle-down technology: revised Class A, TubeState® circuit for unrivalled linearity. DirectDrive® Servo-less ‘DC infinity’ circuit. No capacitor AND no DC-Servo means zero added noise and distortion, there is no purer audio signal path. The sonic performance of the iPHONO2 when partnered with any cartridge from the Shure V-15 through to the Koetsu Coralstone is something to behold. Features Ultra-wide gain from 36dB up to 72dB 6 precision stereo EQ curves (±0.2dB) Latest AMR trickle-down technology: revised Class A, TubeState® circuitry DC-Infinity circuit, DirectDrive® Servo-less circuit Reference class parts quality from Elna Silmic to Silver Mica capacitors iPower (15V) included, ‘quieter than battery’ power supply Specifications Freq. Resp.: 20Hz – 20kHz (±0.2dB) ----- 10Hz - 100KHz (±0.5dB) Dynamic Range MM (36dB): >102dB(A-weighted) MC (72dB): >100dB(A-weighted) Signal-to-Noise Ratio MM (36dB): >89dB(A-weighted) MC (72dB): >86dB(A-weighted) Crosstalk: <-70dB(1KHz) Total Harmonic Distortion (THD): <0.0007% (MM 36dB 1V out 600R Load) Output Impedance: <100Ω Input Voltage iPHONO 2: DC 15V ------ (iPower 15V included – do NOT use any other power supply) Input Voltage iPOWER: AC 85 - 265V, 50/60Hz Power Consumption: < 5W Dimensions: 6.2" x 2.3" x 1.1 Weight: 0.44 lbs. Specifications are subject to change without notice. The retail price of the micro iPHONO2 is US$499 (ex-tax) or Euro569/£435 (incl VAT). Thank you! About iFi iFi Audio, part of AGL, is headquartered in Southport, UK. And also owns the HiFi brand Abbingdon Music Research (AMR). AMR designs and manufacture high-end audio ‘home-based’ components. iFi Audio designs and manufactures portable and desktop ‘ultra-fidelity’ audio products. The combined in-house hardware and software development team enables AMR and iFi audio to bring to market advanced audio products.
  10. Hello everyone I'm fairly new to all of this so I could use some help. I want to hook up some bookshelf speakers to my computer. So far I know that I would need an amplifier. I don't have the greatest budget for this but i'm thinking of buying. This, http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX8020-TX-8020-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00EE18O7W and use these speakers, http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-15M-Bookshelf-Monitor-Speakers/dp/B00LMF41IY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1463069169&sr=1-1&keywords=klipsh+r-15m So i'm thinking of connecting the amplifier with a optical digital audio cable from my computer and then connect the speakers to my amplifier. I don't have a soundcard on my computer but I do have an optical out on my motherboard. All I want is that I can listen to music and watch a movie on my computer with decent sound. Would this work I really have no idea but I would like some good audio instead of using headphones also in the near future I would like to add a subwoofer. If you need some more information just ask and i'll reply as soon as possible. Is this all possible? I hope someone can help me out here. Kind regards Michaël.
  11. As with most audiophiles the world over, I love music. I am an engineer, pianist and classical listener predominantly, but open to all genres and music types and listen avidly to any music type either recommended or discovered. It all started for me, as these things have a wont to, with some money burning a hole in my pocket. A pocket that was not much used to having burning money in it... Countless daily hours over countless months of reading reviews, studying design methodologies and factors influencing sound reproduction, engineering principles and costs, listening sessions to train myself to be able to distinguish quality when heard and what to listen for. A clear obsession with the reproduction of sound. I started with speakers. The purchase of speakers I would suggest should be both the biggest, most personal, and most important part of designing and building a system that is perfect for you; or your wallet. Let's be clear here - the best system is the best system that you can afford. What matters is deriving the best possible sound from the core components that you can afford. That starts with you speakers. The choice of a speaker is a very personal decision and the reality is that when you go above a certain threshold, most speakers are of very fine quality and much better that the start-up audiophile will have ever had access to before. I settled on a used pair of B&W 803's. Perfect for me as they were aesthetically pleasing, sonorous (to my ears), and, most importantly, within budget. Ching - $4,000. Next was the amplifier. Here there is such an unbelievable level of choice as to be mindboggling. I took a very simple rule and applied it. I wanted to spend no more than 50% of my speaker cost on my amplifier. That gave me a budget of $2,000 and significantly limited my options. With an amplifier your main concern should be 1) will it effectively drive your speakers, 2) does it sound good with your speakers and 3) what will you use as your source. I wanted to go digital and the NAD 390DD was (and is) an amazing choice and an amazing amplifier. I got a refurbished unit, some nice transparent cabling and hooked it up to my mac mini as a source playing files from an external hard drive. It was amazing - I was in audiophile heaven. Ching - $2,000 - budget blown. One would think that should be the end of the story. A $6,000 system, some fantastic digital files at 44.1/high resolution and a newly discerning ear to appreciate it all. Those audiophiles out there will well appreciate that this is never quite the case though. As one learns more and more in this hobby, the quest for perfection is a niggling one. What is referenced above is the core - speakers and an amplifier - but the most important aspect, in my opinion, comes after. This is the portion of the journey where you work to make the absolute most of what you have. My beautiful 803's are never going to be $50,000 Wilson's or $80,000 sonus fabers. My 390DD is never going to rival the very best in available amplification. My MacMini will not stand up to a $100,000 DcS stack. But the steps taken post the acquisition of these devices will most definitely allow you to get close. Much closer than you might think possible - particularly up until you get to the speakers. I am just going to give it straight here - in my experience the source and more correctly the chain from source to amplifier has an effect similar to a jump of many $10,000 dollars on the amplifier speaker side. I have heard amazing speakers with amazing amplifiers and if the source is not of sufficient quality and, more importantly, the signal chain from the source to the amplifier, then you are wasting all that money on your amp and speakers. I have no doubt that if you're spending $120,000 on Fabers Aida's then you will have on the best at every level, but if you are operating at a less billionaire like level then the importance of the point above will be much more salient. In utilizing a mac mini for audio I was using usb out to usb in on the amplifier. More than fine. The problem with this is the quality of the power supply in the mini is dubious for audio (switching). You don't need to know all this, but suffice to say you want clean power for good results. Insert iUSB power regulator (or similar) into the chain for immediate improvement. Dramatic improvement in the case of the 390DD. Ching - $200 - we are getting cheaper and closer... Next thing to fix is the inherent problems with USB for audio generally... Now we don't have choice in terms of getting the signal out of the mini, but we do have a choice of what we feed to the amplifier. Enter a USB converter. Suffice to say I spent probably the most amount of time here in terms of research; clocking and conversion is a dark art... I tried multiple devices here in my system - each with their own positives and negatives, but settled; more than settled, fell in love with, the Yellowtec PUC2. This is not the prettiest and very far from the most expensive, but in my considered opinion, the very best; not just for the money, full stop. This device has had the single greatest impact on output quality and I now have a very nice transparent AES cable feeding my 390DD a magnificent, clean, musical digital signal. If you own a 390DD, I will tell you that the AES input is the best - this is not the case on all amplifiers, but for the 390DD the AES is your man. Ching $480 There is one final thing. One final tweak that, if you are searching for the best for your system will be the icing sugar on top. Try using a dedicated card to store your music. The USB bus on my mac mini is busy with external drives and other non audio related activities. The card slot is a clean bus and delivers a mite of extra sparkle. Ching - $50 What's the point here... Well what I want is to hopefully save a little time and heartache for someone that has a similar desire to that which I had. Implement the absolute best audio quality you possibly can on a limited budget (and in my case also with the flexibility of a media centre/TV setup for the mini). My goal was the best digital possible. If your goal is analogue quality then this direction is not for you I would suggest. Especially given the the 390DD has been very badly commented on for its phono stage... I have never tried it and never will. For digital though - it is sublime. $6,730 + a little bit lost in mis-steps along the way is the cost of my music system and I can promise you that I have heard very many relatively well implemented systems across multiple brands at 10x+ of the cost, in dedicated rooms, that don't even come close on multiple criteria - that is obviously while critically listening to the exact same recording. The point is that if you are smart about your expenditure and give the time and effort required to learn, listen, test and repeat, you can achieve amazing results on a comparatively low budget. Many reading this might consider this a nonsensical comment with expenditure as above, but that was my budget. What I am saying is that with care this quality scales. I paid $6000 for the core and $730 to take that core to its highest level. If you can only spend $1,000 on the core then the $730 will still bring that core to its highest level and certainly will be much more valuable than spending that extra $700 on a bit more speaker at the cost of improving the source-amplifier chain. What I have found with all my time is that, while you have to start at the end you will finish at the start. The speakers are the end and still the most important element in reproduction of sound; but it is the start; high quality recordings and the methodology of getting those signals to your amp and speakers which delivers the high fidelity. Bad recording or bad transmission will ruin even the best speaker amp combinations. So if you are going to buy into a high fidelity system this is where you need to focus - on the fidelity. Fidelity is detail and nuance - this is inherent at the start of the signal chain and can only get diluted from there. Once the signal hits your amplifier there is nothing you can do but hope that you remain more than satisfied with your investment in the core components. I want to thank the audiophile community and all the forums and content that exists to make this journey possible for someone starting from a zero base. I don't expect everyone or possibly anyone to agree with what I have said above, but do wish to offer my experience for someone who was where I was and thus pay it forward! Separate note - the 390DD is a direct digital amplifier blending the functions of amplification gain and digital analogue conversion in one device. If you are planning on a class A or A/B amplifier you will have the extra complexity of a DAC to consider. I wish you luck!
  12. One power tube of my 3-year old Neuhaus T-2 hifi amplifier is broken. So I ordered from thetubestore.com replacement tubes. However with the replacements I have strange troubles: When I switch the amp on I get in the speakers a strong slow movement of the membranes with a frequency of ca. 2Hz. I took a video for better demonstration: (wait for the waving settling after a few seconds) Music plays kind of fine on top of this, but I am worried to damage the speakers with this in the long term. This didn’t happen before. Any clue why this happens now and how I can prevent it? Might be other tubes from another seller do a better job? How can I know? Many, many thanks!
  13. My 3 year old Neuhaus T-2 has a broken driver tube 6N7. I contacted Neuhaus, but didn’t get any reply (which is very disappointing). So where can I get tubes for this amp??? Preferably in Australia, but overseas would be fine too. Many thanks!
  14. Hi there I have a Neuhaus T-2 tube amp powering two Mordaunt-Short bookshelf speakers (Mezzo 2) using an Airport express to feed it my iTunes and Spotify music via AirPlay. I now want to replace the amplifier by a tube amp with integrated AirPlay connectivity over Wi-Fi. Any suggestion for a model/brand with decent tube amp part and good D/A converter? Price range 500 to 1500 US$. Would be a plus if the model would visually show of the tubes. :-) Thanks for any pointers!
  15. Hello, With my ever increasing FLAC collection scattered all over the place, time has come to centralize it into a Synology 215j NAS. This NAS has an USB 2 and USB 3 out. I have a NAD audio amplifier with an inbuilt DAC module which has an USB Type B and one TOSLINK input. As of now I am playing back FLAC / MP3's from my laptop connected directly to the amp's DAC module. Can I hook up the Synology 215j NAS to my amp directly with an USB cable and playback FLAC from the NAS through Synology's existing audio interface or do I need any more software / hardware to do this. I have had to install NAD USB Audio Driver drivers on my laptop (Windows 8) to be able to play back FLAC from JRiver Media. Plenty thanks in advance. Looking forward to your inputs.
  16. The following list of amps i can get cheap, just wondering wich would be best for music but also good for a cinema setup, id also like a good range of features. Yamaha RX-V650 Sony STR-DA 3300ES YAMAHA RX-V863 Onkyo TX NR906 Pioneer VSX-922 thanks in advance.
  17. Hey there, We just launched a kickstarter campaign for our new headphone amp. We would very much appreciate it if you could check us out [here]. If you have any questions, feel free to ask here or on the kickstarter and I’ll try to answer to the best of my ability. Thanks for your time! (My apologies if this is not an appropriate post…)
  18. Hi guys, Thought you might wanna see this. I've just come across an interesting Kickstarter project for a really small personal amplifier called the UAMP on Kickstarter. Apparently works with most devices (phones/tablets/DAPs/laptops) and is said to make them sound a lot better > https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1746450443/uamp-soul-shaking-audio-for-your-ears/posts
  19. Hi folks, I ordered my first high end headphones. The V Moda Crossfade m100. I rip my CDs as mp3s at 320kbps. Is this good enough quality to utilize the full potential of m100 or do you advise me to keep it FLAC? When it comes to the player. I own a Galaxy Note 2. Do you think it's powerful enough to run the m100 at full throttle or do you think I'll need a specialized player? Some are even using mobile amplifiers... Will I need an amplifiers even when I get, let's say, a recent Sony Walkman? Thanx in advance guys, as you see I'm completely lost Any suggestions are welcome, Umyd
  20. I have numerous Ipods and at one time had over 1,000 albums (still have a bookshelf full), and still possess over 2k CD's (used to be on record company mailing lists in my previous occupation) Have a fairly nice pc with a soundblaster xtreme card, and have some pretty good pc speakers. However, I recently got a pair of vintage Kef 103/104 4ohm speakers restored, and was in the market for a new amp until I figured out that like most of the modern world I primarily listen to music on Ipod or at my PC. And I don 't EVER listen to the radio anymore unless its streaming over the Internet. So no tuner needed at all. What would be the best way for my computer to get a high quality connection that will also provide enough juice to push these babies like they were meant to be powered? A nice option would be to be able to switch back and for between my current desktop speakers and the KEFs - I would say I'm looking in the neighborhood of 500. Thanks, CHarles
  21. I have been patiently awaiting the arrival of the Peachtree Audio Decco65 to use on my office desktop, which has been on pre order for some time now. For $999 it really is at the top of what I want to spend for a desktop amp. While waiting for it to come out I have been shopping around thinking there may be another unit at or below the cost of the Decco65 that could work for my needs. The Emotiva mini-x a-100 caught my eye, but that would require a separate DAC. Which is fine, but Emotiva does not make a size compatible DAC (I have aesthetic issues).... A newcomer to the mix is the NuForce DDA-100 ($549) which seems to also fit the bill nicely. I cannot find any reviews to get some expert opinions.. Also I am having a hard time wrapping my head around the digital to analog conversion used in this unit. I have read about it on the NuForce website, but it still isn't clicking in my little brain. Since this appears to have just been out a few weeks, I doubt there is anyone on here with first hand experience, but if so, please let me know what you think... Basically I am looking for a sub $1000 Intergrated Stereo amp with DAC (optical input), like the Peachtree Nova or Wadia PowerDAC to drive my ERA D4 speakers.
  22. Rats! I got everything all set up and found out my Adcom GFA-535 does not work, so I need an AMP (not a receiver). My preference is for clean, accurate and tight sound. I mostly use the speakers to play music. I am wondering what makes more sense 1. Get another Adcom GFA-535 or similar on eBay 2. Purchase a Emotiva UPA-200 or Mini-X A-100 3. ATI AT602 for $250 4. Something else What do your suggest and why? Also, I am not quite sure if I need a pre-amp. Adcom said I did, but Emotiva said I did not. If you know, please let me know. Here is the equipment I am using (I pasted links to manuals below). This is connected to a computer and it is critical that the sound be controllable by the computer (hence no receiver). Polk Monitor 40 Series II Polk PSW10 HT Omega eClaro (PC sound card) If needed, I have a Klipsch Promedia dd 5.1 preamp/decoder Polk Monitor 40s: http://ec1.images-amazon.com/media/i...L000074437.pdf Polk Sub: http://www.polkaudio.com/downloads/m...SW10_12_MN.pdf HT Omega eClaro: http://www.htomega.com/filedown/eclaro.pdf klipsch dd5.1: ProMedia DD - 5.1 | Klipsch http://www.themusichelpers.com/z/248061100000001 Thanks, J
  23. I had my first foray into hi-fi territory when I recently bought a Denon M39 with Dali Zensor 1 speakers. It sounds great - relative to what I was used to. But I know that before too long I'm going to outgrow it (its happening already …. ) and I'll want to swap the micro-system for some separates. Now I mostly play music out of my laptop. This is being piped via an airport express into the Denon with iTunes/Audirvana being the player and using mostly ALAC, FLAC, MP3 and AAC files. I don't really need a CD player and I can't see myself really wanting to use that format again on a regular basis. I'm looking to swap my Micro for a good integrated amplifier - either with an inbuilt DAC or a separate amplifier and DAC. 1)The amp should be integrated and should be decent enough that I don't feel like an upgrade for a few years. 2) Its should pair well with the speakers. 3) Also since the primary source is computer audio, I think the DAC is important. The idea of an internal DAC appeals to me, but I'll be happy to sacrifice it if I can get a decent DAC with amp with same or better value and options as I can see a completely integrated package reduces my options. Second hand is fine. 4) I'm looking at a budget of £400 - 500 max 5) Must accept ALAC and FLAC source I was looking at the …. Cambridge Audio 651A - apparently has a decent onboard DAC but some bad reviews ?? Rega Brio - R - Great Reviews on What Hifi but worried about cruddy cosmetics ( although chrome finish looks quite decent) and lack on inputs esp. optical in NAD 356BEE - but I guess optional dac would push the price up a bit? Rotel RA11 - sounds great! but specifications don't mention support for FLAC or ALAC?? I'm also open to separate DAC and amp solutions as I understand that approach has its advantages