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  1. View Classified Rogue Audio DragoN Stereo Amplifier I purchased this Rogue Audio DragoN stereo amp in October 2021. The only reason for selling is that Rogue Audio came out with a mono block version of the DragoN about a year ago so I decided to upgrade and now enjoy. I pulled the new set of J&J tubes (12UA7) from the mono blocks and installed them in the stereo DragoN that I am selling, so fresh tubes are included in the sale. Also included are power cord, manual and packing material. If you are not familiar with this hybrid Class D (Hypex NCore modules) and tube amp, according to a TAS review in January 2021, "...DragoN is a hybrid tube/Class D design. However, the rogues at Rogue emphasize that it’s not “simply a tube circuit placed in front of a Class D output section.” They describe their proprietary “tubeD” circuit topology as one that integrates the tube section (a pair of 12AU7 tubes) into the amplifier’s output stage. Additionally, three massive linear power supplies built around large, high-performance toroidal transformers power the amplifier circuitry, and top-shelf parts mounted on a heavy (two-ounce) copper circuit board are used exclusively throughout." Buyer responsible for any additional fees and for shipping costs. US Audio Mart Listing Specs: Rogue Audio DragoN Webpage Thanks for looking and let me know if you have any questions. Seller ericuco Date 12/11/23 Price 2,900.00 USD Category Amplifiers  
  2. Was happily playing around yesterday with some new up-sampling options for HQPlayer and accidentally did in a pair of Orchard Audio GaN monoblocks after a change caused a loud static blast. A quick perusal of their website told me I could get the monoblocks working again for about $750, the cost of 2 new boards but I started wondering what that same money could buy me in something thats not class D. While I like the power and clean performance of a class D amp, theres something about the treble with these that can bite the owner at times. A quick perusal suggested the Topping LA90 as an alternative, an inexpensive class AB amp thats liked both by TAS and ASR and one that should match well with the Topping Pre90 I have sitting idle. The rub is matching it with Magnepans and their 2 ohm impedance in the treble but from what I can see in ASR reviews it behaved well at 2 ohms but tripped protect too fast to measure clipping wattage. Wattage is adequate for an 85db speaker and if I like the amp it can be made better by buying a second amp and running both in bridged mode. Have ordered 1 unit, should arrive by next weekend. Will share what I learn from using it.
  3. Wondering what the current state of Class D amps is? A year ago I replaced my aging class AB amp with Orchard Audio GaN mono blocks, which was a major improvement in bass foundation and low volume resolution. After living with these for a year still pretty pleased but have realized that in high treble they could be improved on, as they can accentuate irritants causing me to keep a tube pre to smooth them out. Reading reviews in the past, this seemed to be the one criticism of class D. I'm wondering if any newer technology has emerged for class D that resolves this?
  4. hi guys, does anyone have any experience with Lab12 integre4 MK2 , its a hand made 70W/C class a tube (KT170) integrated amplifier built in Greece. i heard a lot of good things about it but i never had the chance to test it my self, i can get it with a great discount but wondering what are my other option for a good class A Tube amp in 3000-5000$ range. also i don't have any tube experience, can this amp drive 86/88 db speakers with just 70 watts of power? how does this compare to my other amps? i have musical fidelity m5si and Taga HTA 1000 (hybrid). thanks
  5. Could this new class D module from Bruno be the one to finally silence all the naysayers? The specs looks crazy. Any thoughts from the higher ups here? https://6moons.com/audioreview_articles/purifi/ https://www.purifi-audio.com/eigentakt/
  6. Hello, I would like to know if anybody knows how to freeze the display contents in the display window of the Linn Classik. Be it the tuner or cd info, it appears and disappears after a few seconds, leaving - - , 2 stripes as display content. Pushing on the display button of the remote gives no result. Also, to attain a decent volume, I have to go over the half, 50-60 whereas many other amps I got, even less in wpc but I agree that alone does not make the volume. I tend to see that all digital sensored volume setting , be it with leds as I turn the knob, or with numbers, these tend to go high whereas the analog ancient button turn stays under. A budget Sony does not even need the half way. My Musical fidelity MI All In amp, tuner, cd, like the linn, scores far better in a numbered volumesetting. I just like a low volume setting for the same loudness. Gives me a feeling of having much as reserve.
  7. I have a mid 2012 Macbook Pro, Mackie CR3's, Behringer HPX2000 and I'm just kinda happy. Mackies are connected to 3.5mm headphone output of Macbook Pro to the 1/4 TRS inputs of the Mackies. The Mackies have a 3.5mm aux output I can run the headphones on but when I plug them in the speakers shut off. I read that my laptop has 3.5mm/optical mini toslink output. How can I 100% find that out? I installed a programs called Mactracker and it said I had it but I followed some other instructions to check and it didn't show I do. In any event, without upgrading the Mackies I'd like to improve my all around sound quality and achieve deeper bass expecially when wearing the heaphones which aren't very load from the Mackies. I cloud try going straight to the Macbook with them but I don't want to be moving the cable a lot, the jack already seems loose. Please help, this is what I kinda have in mind, keep in mind I know nothing about all this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X238W58/?coliid=I3OM2SNSG0CQXA&colid=CC9E3PYS8XU9&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
  8. My existing system Wadia 270 CD Transport <--- Now I want to get rid all CDs Wadia 27 DAC Krell Preamp and amplifier Totem Speakers I would like to now put all my CDs on a QNAP NAS system in FLAC format. What do I need to connect QNAP to my system to play music. Thanks AR
  9. I have spent most of my years working on a multichannel AV setup. However, I'm now beginning to set up a mid-level vinyl, 2-channel system. The goal will be to upgrade components over time, but for now I'm trying to decide on a mid-level price-point amplifier. The current configuration is Technics SL-1600 turntable (Shibata stylus) Little Bear T10 tube phono preamp stage **Yamaha RXV1065 AV amp Q Audio 3050i speakers. I would like to swap out the Yamaha stage. My research has suggested two options, a Cayin Audio A-55T (if I'd like to stay full tube), or a Rega Elicit R. Does anyone have thoughts on these amps, or any other suggestion for what might be a good starting point in such a setup? Thanks
  10. Hello, I want to ask following question. I am NO expert. Let this be clear, so don't shoot please. I have a whole collection of Audio. And in that, about 30 amplifiers. But I am going to pick 3 as to compare them in decibel production versus the Ampliers specs. 1. The Cyrus 7. Rated at 40 Watt per channel at 8 ohm. 2. A Chinese Classic Yyshung 08 power amp with a preamp. 125 Watt in 8 ohm, 240 in 4 ohm. 3. And my worry Amp. The Thule IA150B. 125 Watt in 8 ohm, 250 in 4 ohm. last one got overheated, replaced him. Let him cool off. Morning after he was "fine". Fine, well to me not 100%. Even before the heating problem. The volume knob goes to 80 de in steps of 1 db. I need 40 on the display to have a moderate decibel production. That is 12 o clock. number 2 only needs the volume at about 7 o clock or less for the same decibel production. Number 1, the Cyrus with 40 watts needs ALSO about 8 o clock. At 12 o clock you have to begin start running away. Awesome. The Thule has 16 Transistors to attain the 125 Watts. still he lacks in DBs . Clearly . Radio is louder than a cd or internet. but that is not the issue. Do I have a problem with my gorgeous Thule, having only 2 inputs. But Creek doesn't do better. Do I need him being serviced. 40 DBs for a 125 Watt amp and , regardless of the speakers, the DBS do not 🔥 fire. It is disappointing in a way, Other Thule owners reported other problems . did some of the 16 transistors die ??? Cyrus are beasts. Like NAD. With 25 watt they blow you away. English of course. So. If anyone can give some advise or comment please do. In fact, I have the same issue with the Rega Elicit. Software sensored volume knob. He also needs 11 o clock for some good sound. Being not the cheapest Amp. Marantzes, Denons, Sansuis all score much higher than the Thule. I know volume not only depends of the Number of Watts but you expect a more than decent performer giving the performance per channel. Thanks. Aragorn
  11. Looking for some advice on amplifiers. The amplifier of our community group has 'blown up' a couple of weeks ago and was sent in for repairs but we have now been advised that it would cost more to repair than what it is worth. I've been looking around but can't seem to find any amplifiers that have the same connectors of the previous one. Can anybody advise on what amplifiers would have connectors as shown in the attach photos.
  12. I found the video per the link below pretty much by accident when searching for something rather different. I have to be honest, I found this to be utterly gobsmacking, I had always suspected that amps needed a little more power than simple maths based on required dB(A) and speaker efficiency would suggest, but nothing like this. The video of the amp's display is a little blurry, but's lets just say that I has mentally parked the decimal point in the display a factor of 10 backwards until it dawned on me what was really going on.I would say it is well worth 10 minutes of your time to watch.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRMR9JZ1m0s&app=desktopSo what exactly are the amplifiers measuring? As mentioned in the video it is the peak / tranient power that is captured, so not a continuous average. The amps are CH Precision A1's. This from the CH Precision manual:Power monitoring. Each power amplifier board is equipped with a DSP that monitors the instantaneous output voltage and current of each M1 channel. Both values are sampled at around 100 kHz, ensuring peak values are properly detected. This circuitry has several purposes: give the user a feedback of the peak power fed to the loudspeakers, and detect malfunctions such as short-circuits or amplifier damage.As many will know, Harbeth's are not the most efficient speakers you can buy, in fact rather the opposite, the 40.1's are rated at a lowly 85dB/w/1m.This is another video showing the CH Precision power meters. It is not clear what speakers are used here, but the peak levels are clearly lower than are seen on the Harbeth's. (but still hit the odd spectacular peak)https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UP8i8F62OlMI have to say that when I first viewed the Harbeth clip I was staggered by what I was seeing, this was not what I expected at all. Thinking about it though, it does make sense of some of my past experiences. For example, I first listened to the KEF Blades with a Devialet Expert D240. This appeared to drive the Blades with ease, which is what you might expect. Later, I heard the Blades with a D170. It was terrible. This was not some subtle step back in performance, but a case of the amp not really working with the speaker, dynamics vanished, the bass was a mess. Not good to listen to at all. I remember being puzzled by this at the time. The Blades are rated with a sensitivity of 91dB/w/1m. So for normal listening levels surely you only need 10 or 20 Watts or something? Why should the drop from 240 to 170 make any difference? Based on simple maths re dB(A) levels and power, it did not make sense. However, looking at those figures that the CH Precision amps are displaying, it would seam possible that the D240 was coping with the Blades, but the D170 struggling, with audible consequences.It also reminds me a Devialet event at Oxford Audio, when Devialet's Chief designer Mathieu Pernot stated that his perfect amplifier design would have "infinite power". This seamed slightly absurd to me at the time and I was talking to him about this later in the day. I was making a real world point about the rated power capability of typical speakers. In response Mathieu pointed out that there is no agreed method or protocol for measuring manufacturer quoted speaker power ratings, no agreed standard if you like, so manufacturers tend to give figures that are more like "recommended amplifier power ratings. He then went on to explain that a speaker "rated" for say 50w to 400w, could easily take instantaneous peaks of power way over the 400w "maximum" with ease. OK, try putting that kind of wattage through continuously and heat will generate, voice coils will melt or seize, but very high transient peak power levels are not an issue. For me, knowing (based on maths) that a typical speaker could run at well over 100dB(a) with less than 20W, Mathieu's explanation seamed a little theoretical. Now I have seen the above video, it makes perfect sense. I have always though that higher power amplifiers provide a certain sense of "ease" to the presentation, but I could not really rationalise the science behind what was just a subjective view. Now I have seen the above video, many things make a lot more sense. For those interested, this is a link to the track used in the Harbeth video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhuJxdaU87IPlaying this at home, I would have to say that it does include some rather extreme bass content, which combined with the Harbeth's low efficiency does perhaps go some way towards explaining the rather high power figures on that CI amp. I can also see that my habit of using one or two electronic tracks when auditioning kit might have some merit, I can't see any other music genres providing quite the speaker / amplifier challenge of something like the Pan Sonic track linked above. (plus, I quite like electronic music) Although even with miserable YouTube 128kbs streaming, it does sound pretty awesome with my little Devialet providing the thundering bass power.
  13. No, not Nelson Pass (!) But I thought this was an interesting article... https://benchmarkmedia.com/blogs/application_notes/power-amplifiers-the-importance-of-the-first-watt
  14. Hi! - Today while fiddling around with a new DC supply to my DAC with my Amp in standby.. I noticed two small plumes of smoke from the amplifier and the lovely (not) smell of toasting components.. I was surprised to say the least! (as it was in standby - relays not feeding power I assumed). Still not sure what fiddling with a 12vdc supply to my DAC would mean via the balanced XLR to the amp.. So I took the case off for a look and a sniff.. I am not sure whether the caps are potted/bonded and this has discoloured or have my caps started leaking some time ago? Votes please.. Also looking on the rectifiers (where the smoke approx came from) I see white 'speckled dots' I wonder if the 3 ICs (mosfets?) were the things that cooked and boiled their thermo paste onto the rectifiers? Amp still works as I pulled the power quickly. Still amazed at how HUGE the Toroid is in this amp. Not happy tho And now the 'spattered' bridge rectifier PCB?
  15. Hi - I wasn't sure where on CA to talk about amplifiers, so starting this thread here. With the recent announcement this weekend (or so) at the Munich High-End show that Mytek will make a matching Class D Amplifier for the Brooklyn (called the Brooklyn Amplifier), I thought I would capture the information and what I learn about it (as I have a Brooklyn DAC and want to go Class D for my next amp). Info is very limited other than the release text and images. (no back panel yet). The name is aptly chosen because the Brooklyn AMP fits in the same housing as the DAC, albeit with an inch of extra depth. It will be available in the same silver and black finishes as the Brooklyn DAC. Apart from its elegant looks, the Brooklyn AMP produces 2 x 300 Watts of output power at 8 ohms and drives even the most difficult of loudspeakers with ease. Mytek claims to have created a "triode Class A-sounding Class D" design which will make the Brooklyn AMP relevant for audiophiles worldwide. The expected retail price of the Brooklyn AMP is 1,995 Euro/$, and delivery will start mid-summer 2017.
  16. Hello everyone I'm fairly new to all of this so I could use some help. I want to hook up some bookshelf speakers to my computer. So far I know that I would need an amplifier. I don't have the greatest budget for this but i'm thinking of buying. This, http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX8020-TX-8020-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00EE18O7W and use these speakers, http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-15M-Bookshelf-Monitor-Speakers/dp/B00LMF41IY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1463069169&sr=1-1&keywords=klipsh+r-15m So i'm thinking of connecting the amplifier with a optical digital audio cable from my computer and then connect the speakers to my amplifier. I don't have a soundcard on my computer but I do have an optical out on my motherboard. All I want is that I can listen to music and watch a movie on my computer with decent sound. Would this work I really have no idea but I would like some good audio instead of using headphones also in the near future I would like to add a subwoofer. If you need some more information just ask and i'll reply as soon as possible. Is this all possible? I hope someone can help me out here. Kind regards Michaël.
  17. micro iPhono2 Only everything has been improved Southport, UK – 25th April 2016 The best just made the quantum leap The original iPhono was the ‘benchmark’ phono stage <US$1,000. Only retaining the same design philosophy, we went back to the beginning and designed a ground-up, all-new iPhono2. The design, circuitry and parts are all far-reaching: Ultra-wide gain range – 36dB to astonishing 72dB; suits any cartridge. Whisper quiet – SNR of >86dB, an impressive 10dB quieter than the original. Latest AMR trickle-down technology: revised Class A, TubeState® circuit for unrivalled linearity. DirectDrive® Servo-less ‘DC infinity’ circuit. No capacitor AND no DC-Servo means zero added noise and distortion, there is no purer audio signal path. The sonic performance of the iPHONO2 when partnered with any cartridge from the Shure V-15 through to the Koetsu Coralstone is something to behold. Features Ultra-wide gain from 36dB up to 72dB 6 precision stereo EQ curves (±0.2dB) Latest AMR trickle-down technology: revised Class A, TubeState® circuitry DC-Infinity circuit, DirectDrive® Servo-less circuit Reference class parts quality from Elna Silmic to Silver Mica capacitors iPower (15V) included, ‘quieter than battery’ power supply Specifications Freq. Resp.: 20Hz – 20kHz (±0.2dB) ----- 10Hz - 100KHz (±0.5dB) Dynamic Range MM (36dB): >102dB(A-weighted) MC (72dB): >100dB(A-weighted) Signal-to-Noise Ratio MM (36dB): >89dB(A-weighted) MC (72dB): >86dB(A-weighted) Crosstalk: <-70dB(1KHz) Total Harmonic Distortion (THD): <0.0007% (MM 36dB 1V out 600R Load) Output Impedance: <100Ω Input Voltage iPHONO 2: DC 15V ------ (iPower 15V included – do NOT use any other power supply) Input Voltage iPOWER: AC 85 - 265V, 50/60Hz Power Consumption: < 5W Dimensions: 6.2" x 2.3" x 1.1 Weight: 0.44 lbs. Specifications are subject to change without notice. The retail price of the micro iPHONO2 is US$499 (ex-tax) or Euro569/£435 (incl VAT). Thank you! About iFi iFi Audio, part of AGL, is headquartered in Southport, UK. And also owns the HiFi brand Abbingdon Music Research (AMR). AMR designs and manufacture high-end audio ‘home-based’ components. iFi Audio designs and manufactures portable and desktop ‘ultra-fidelity’ audio products. The combined in-house hardware and software development team enables AMR and iFi audio to bring to market advanced audio products.
  18. My trip through headphones and speakers was very diverse, but I finally reached the top floors and found out I am completely lost. As the title suggests, I am about to buy one of the AKGs (most likely 712) and it would seem they lie in a territory that cannot be run from basic on-board sound card. Currently there is an MSI B150 GAMING M3 motherboard with an on-board Realtek ALC1150 sitting in my case. According to many articles and forums, on-board sound cards are better and better. ALC1150 seems to be satisfying for normal use. However, it would seem it is not powerful enough to run the 712 PRO. Not enough anything. Under perfect circumstances: 115dB 40 Hz – 15 kHz,dB +0.02, -0.07 THD 0.0043 I might be new to the higher part of audio technology, but I can tell that the picked headphones would be pointless to connect to such card. Frequency 10Hz - 39.8kHz, max input 200mW, impedance 62 ohmu, sensitivity 105dB SPL/V, jack 3.5mm, cable lenght 3 m Do I go for an external sound card like Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Surround HD, something internal? Do I need additional amp, or will the card manage to run the 712s on its own? Asking like this always annoys the hell out of me, makes me feel like my brain failed. However, here ti comes: I would really appreciate help from the skilled and more knowledgeable. Could some good soul offer advice?
  19. So honestly when it comes to hi-fi headphones I'm actually pretty inexperienced and don't really know what I'm doing, anyways I got a pair of HD650s for Christmas and have been using a little Fiio portable amp for them but I know it's not nearly good enough and want to upgrade for better sound quality. The only problem is I have no idea what to get. I know I don't want to spend over $500, but I don't know if I should get a tube amp and DAC, just a tube amp, or an amp/DAC combo thing. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  20. Hi people, recently i found my dad's old DYNACO A-25's and i wanted to try them. I'm not an expert but for what i know i need aproximately a 40w amplifier. I found this 2; are they fine for normal listening, which is better? The speakers are 40w 8 oem Their limit is 60w https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B06W2KFBG4/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2A1HIM2X1EPQ0 https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B00E9U375C/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ABV9J41D2VYA9 If the amplifier's are not good can you suggest me some for no more than 60 euros. Thank's to evryone
  21. Hi all, I built the In-Khan-Neatos about two years ago for an in-wall replacement for some mains that failed, they have worked out great. At the time I was using a HK PA4000 100Wx2 setting amp, a HK3375 as a pre and streaming music using a laptop headphone jack to RCA outs. When I replaced the speakers I moved to Schiit passive Pre and also moved to a Schiit Bifrost DAC. The speakers as I said are great and the gear helped improve the sound as well. Well I am thinking I can do better than 15 year old HK PA4000 and I have always been interested in tubes. My main question is how much power in a an amp do I need for the these speakers. I was thinking about going for a whole Schiit system with the Vidar amp (maybe two if that much power is better) and the Freya pre and the price is right. In my main system I have an old Hafler amp rebuilt by Audio by VanAlstine which is great. So that has also had me looking at his stuff (the price goes up). He has a SS amp with 150W per channel or a tubed version which is 200W per channel. I am also looking at his tubed preamps (two versions). With the In-Khan-Neatos, I think they can reproduce the cleanest sound I can feed them so that is what I am looking for. With the power question, can you have to much (I assume so because you are over spending), If you have too much do you just use less dial on the pre. Thanks for the advice and help. http://www.divine-audio.com/in-khan-neatos/ https://avahifi.com/ http://www.schiit.com/ https://www.cnet.com/products/harman-kardon-pa-4000-amplifier/specs/
  22. I used to have a few different configurations on my primary PC, but then the PCi-E input on the MOBO apparently died, so I switched over to an external USB Creative Audio SBX soundcard and am now a bit confused on how best to power my existing equipment. All of my previous stuff (Klipsch 2.1, Cambridge Soundworks 2.1, etc.) were all powered devices. I was then able to add to this with my old soundcard (soundblaster X-Fi Xtreme gamer) my Battlechair's audio components for a true 4.2 system. I'm sure most of you don't remember the Battle Chair, but it's got it's own Eastern amplifier to power the speakers on the top of the chair (@ ear level) along with the sub built into the lumbar portion of the seat. It was awesome and I miss it! It's worth googling it just to see what I'm referring to, IMHO. Now, with the above equipment out of the picture - except the Battle Chair, I still want desperately to get this back into the mix, along with the new equipment I've since purchased for the front "2.1" portion of this set-up. I have the new ELAC Debut 6.2 speakers arriving tomoorw and they're going to be the front L/R channels and it'll be paired to a powered Polk Audio PSW10 powered subwoofer. The ELAC obviously will crave much more power than the current little Lepai 2020A+ amp I have been using the drive the Cambridge Soundworks speakers up to this point. My question is, how can I integrate this all into one cohesive working system? I'm desperate for guidance, so if you need any additional information, pictures, etc. in order to answer PLEASE let me know. I think tihs system, with all the available speakers working together, would be phenomenal....I just don't know what to get to tie them all together (e.g.5.1 amplifier, 7.2 amplifier, etc.), not to mention how to incorporate the Battle Chair speakers. Any and all help is truly appreciated.
  23. iFi audio's xDSD - The Official Thread iFi's latest portable beauty Yup, this space is devoted to our upcoming xDSD model. Every piece of nfo regarding this one we'll post in this thread. Stay tuned!
  24. My 3 year old Neuhaus T-2 has a broken driver tube 6N7. I contacted Neuhaus, but didn’t get any reply (which is very disappointing). So where can I get tubes for this amp??? Preferably in Australia, but overseas would be fine too. Many thanks!
  25. Hi there I have a Neuhaus T-2 tube amp powering two Mordaunt-Short bookshelf speakers (Mezzo 2) using an Airport express to feed it my iTunes and Spotify music via AirPlay. I now want to replace the amplifier by a tube amp with integrated AirPlay connectivity over Wi-Fi. Any suggestion for a model/brand with decent tube amp part and good D/A converter? Price range 500 to 1500 US$. Would be a plus if the model would visually show of the tubes. :-) Thanks for any pointers!
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