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Energy

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    Artemis Cables

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  1. I don't normally comment but that looks like you're doing a lot. I'll post a picture of a unit I did for a friend. It is almost done and only requires the NDK oscillators. I apologize to those who've I said that I would get them a picture early last week. I have been preparing for Chinese/Vietnamese new years (as well as celebrating in a way) and have been out of town occupied. @camel @oneguy Behold on what seems to look like a normal Singxer SU-1. At a closer view you can see weird wires coming from the sides and Nichicon R7's capacitors. With a look under the hood you can see five packed LT3045-A voltage regulators. Ohno Continuous Cast (OCC) wires for less resistance. Extra ground wires for lower ground impedance. 3R3 Inductor and Switch-Mode Voltage Regulator (SMVR) removed. Wires soldered into existing eyelet (1V and GND) 3R3 Inductor kept for proper frequency filtering. Wires do NOT coincide with one another (less crosstalk).
  2. Larger capacitance = longer to charge
  3. @elan120 You've gotten way further than I have. I'm still scratching my head here. It seems you got the existing 5×7.5 mm package soldering pads on there pretty well alongside the NDK's oscillator and it's pads as well. Great job dude. Is there a method on creating a thinner board? Problem is that vias shouldn't be used as it causes impedance fluctuations based on all the "optimizations for oscillators" that I've been reading these past few days. Traces going into Vin should be curved as well. Might as well do it to all of them so it looks uniform and nice. Optimizations also says that having a ground directly beneath helps but i don't know how that's going to work when we want it to be easier to mount. Any ideas?
  4. I do know there is a 2A available somewhere else. Not sure about 3A. http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/131-056uv-ultralow-noise-dac-power-supply-regulator-3357v-14ax2.html
  5. You can ask him. He did it for me. http://www.ldovr.com/category-s/118.htm I would advise purchasing from him directly rather than through ebay. Alexey is a great guy to do business with. Fast and educated responses.
  6. Well you know people all over the audiophile market sell dampening feet and all kinds of exotic parts just for micro-vibrations. I doubt it'll resonate anything of it's own as long as its soldered on properly (good amount of solder). The vertical copper alloy fins of extruding the Sparkos shouldn't be worn down by a light aluminum block but who really knows when it comes to material science nowadays. Usually I just do everything just in case or perhaps more out of paranoia. Having had experience in building gaming PC's for clients and eventually getting into the audiophile hobby makes me hate the color blue as it was a general color and overly used to the point where it bothered my eyes.
  7. What's that black thing hovering nearby your oscillator? The heatsink? The chip runs super cool so personally I'd get rid of the heatsink altogether. It'll help to lower micro-vibration and offer less strain on the metal alloys that holds up the regulator over time. Thanks for the picture. The carrier fits on nicely thanks to the larger traces. excellent. I just finished an upgrade for my personal unit today before carrying on with other people's units. I haven't installed the clocks yet. That will be at the very end. Replacements: (1) LT3045-A replaces stock (1) LD1086 voltage regulator - 3.3V (2) LT3045-A replaces stock (2) LEJ/ADP150 voltage regulator - 3.3V (1) LT3045-A replaces stock (1) L328 voltage regulator - 3.3V (1) LT3045-A replaces stock (1) 3R3 Inductor and ADJ voltage regulator - 1.0V To Do: (soon) (1) NDK NZ2520SD replaces stock (1) CCHD-575 oscillator- 22.579MHz (1) NDK NZ2520SD replaces stock (1) CCHD-575 oscillator- 24.576MHz (1) CRYSTEK CCHD-575 replaces stock (1) HCMOS oscillator - 24.000MHz (1) Kycon KUSBXHT-BS1N-O-HRF (high retention) replaces stock (1) USB Female Connector - Type B (3) White LED's replaces stock (3) Blue LED's. Picture for giggles.
  8. You shave the bottom to the point where it's so thin and about to hit the inner traces before stopping? How far is the traces of the adapter board from stock mounting points? Based on what you're describing. If the traces are lined up enough there would be little sense to use a wire. I reckon direct soldering from the two pads to be better than having a wire run that can hurt impedance. If we do get a better carrier board made the main gain you'll only get is from a more uniform trace going into the soldering points rather than the square to square tracers your adapter board currently presents.
  9. Do you by any chance have a picture of how your unit look like with the adapter board and NDK NZ2520SD's affixed? I believe you managed to source the adapter boars from here : Oscillator Adapter Board (eBay) The smallest supported size is: 3225 3.2 x 2.5mm But you're saying this size fits fine? (NDK NZ2520SD) 2520 2.5 x 2.0mm I'm taking a guess that you cut the outer white lined rectangle and affixed a solid core wire to their respected positions after soldering the oscillator on? I planned on doing the same but utilizing a solid core (silver) wire for optimal routing. Thank you for looking into it. I believe according to the majority of optimizations for oscillator fixtures is to have a ground plane directly beneath die and eliminate the use of vias (changes impedance and causes reflections) and 90 degree angles. I've been experimenting with trying to make my own carrier board using CAD software but it's a little over my level of expertise.
  10. Hiya Alex. I've taken a look at the CRYSTEK CCHD-575 datasheets and they surely are better at nearly -20dB over the ABRACON ASTX-H11-24.000MHZ-T @ 1KHz which is quite excellent. Do you by any chance have 1 that I can source from you? I'd very much like to give it a try. A little boggling though as it's quite larger than the 3.2 x 2.5 size of the originals. Even if I did use a carrier board, any wire run or traces would be bad for the parasitic inductance so I'm unsure how Kevin or Sam is doing theirs without jeopardizing something in the process. You are very much right. There is already what seems to a ferrite bead SMD that connects the Oscillator's Pin 4 (Vin) to the ADP150's Pin 5 (Vout) which minimizes resonance problems as it's resistive above 100KHz and will therefore lower the effective Q of the circuit intended. It also looks to have two ceramic SMD connecting to ground and contact with Pin 2 (GND) of the oscillator which is good as it shows that it is properly bypassed. I'm not sure why there are two ceramic SMD's though. Perhaps each ceramic type has a dielectric in which works better for a particular frequency. @pkane2001 So either way, despite using Crystek CCHD-575 or NDK NZ2520SD, there is no need for any further bypassing. The ferrite bead, ceramic (low ESR, low ESL, low resonance/ring), and build-out resistors are already in place. Using a film capacitor will not be good as they are wire wound and would only increase it's inductance. Additionally ceramic types work better in frequency range that we need. I apologize for my spur earlier without properly looking at the PCB. @elan120 Do you by any chance have a drawing so I could have a PCB made on OSHPARK to use as a carrier for the NDK NZ2520SD's? Having read more into decoupling of oscillators I can understand now why you chose to angle your traces.
  11. Hopefully you bought a sorted one and not just any as their phase plot is all over the place and so you might even end up getting one that performs worse than the stock CCHD-575. Film capacitors have been used as bypass/decoupling capacitors for a long time now and if one owns op-amps or crystal oscillators, it’s beneficial to connect the voltage and ground together with them. Anywhere values of 0.01uF to 0.1uF should be sufficient. I have a couple if you are interested. I reakon even higher values up to 1uF would even work but that would increase the charge time of the capacitor but probably would be negligible due to their incredibly low ESR and charge time compared to standard electrolytics. I doubt charge time matters in this scenario as it’s only working as a power filter and not as any time interval vital operation. Let me know if you need any. I believe I have some rare WIMA FKP2’s (greens) in a tight tolerance of 1%, not that tolerance really matters for this purpose of noise filtering though. WIMA FKP2/MKP2’s are 5mm. Cut the leads as short as possible and place it directly over the NDK NZ2520SD’s. Have each lead touch either pin 2 or pin 4. The orientation does not matter as it works like a resistor in a bipolar way. Solder it down to the lead pads or the existing joint of the NDK or carrier board and you’re good. This helps the oscillator to work more independently as it filters out the band noise. Good luck friend. Please be careful.
  12. You should also connect a bypass/decoupling capacitor with low ESR to pin 2 and 4 of your NDK NZ2520SD. The value should be 0.01uF to work as a power filter for the Ground and Power Line so that the noise from the oscillator does not leak into the clock circuit and the power noise from the circuit does no leak into the oscillator. Better isolation is what I'm saying. The leads should be cut as short as possible prior to soldering in order to minimize parasitic inductance from being formed which would equivalate to an increase in impedance for higher frequencies. It is written in the NDK datasheet as well as recommended by Analog Research. No changes are needed for the build out resistors as they are already in place on the SU-1 circuit board. I recommend WIMA FKP2 for better quality since it's film/foil rather than metalized film however I'm sure even the metalized MKP2 should be fine for this purpose. Circuit Design for Crystal Oscillator (and optimizations) NDK NZ2520SD DataSheet
  13. SMPS and grounding

    About to do another grounding trick soon. Will post photos.
  14. SMPS and grounding

    Can’t let those outlets go to waste!
  15. SMPS and grounding

    I’ve always wondered but why is grounding/earth so beneficial to obtaining good sound quality? is it mainly to offer stray currents a way out so it does not get regulated within the system? i do understand grounding for shielding purposes but that’s about the limit of my knowledge.
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