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Computer Audiophile

Energy

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  1. I've been trying various mods however nothing still beats the LPS-1 + SU-1. Replacement of the internal voltage regulator for a SS1117 or LT3045 is a must. I have found no differences between the two to qualify higher costs so if you have time to wait, get the LT3045. I have been busy experimenting with PCM to Native DSD encoding lately on the Holo Audio Spring, more specifically playing PCM files through HQPlayer set to poly-sinc-xtr (and -mp) followed by DSD512 bitrate conversion which takes 10 CPU cores just to process. For once my hobby in building gaming computers directly correlate to better sound quality. I would recommend anyone with a Windows computer to try it out if you have a DAC that supports DSD like the Spring. There is a free trial for HQPlayer as well as J.River Media Center. Use poly-sinc-xtr-mp-2s instead if your computer cannot handle the other higher processing filters available on HQPlayer. There are no filters to pick from on J.River Media Center so it would be an easier solution.
  2. I do not agree with that review.
  3. Aerosmith has spoken! I will be getting my replacement ISO REGEN in the mail today!
  4. I have a question.. What is the most updated driver and firmware currently available for the SU-1? I'm using the version before DSD512 support (maybe 2.0?). Listening with a MacBook Pro (Apple) so I don't think Holo Audio Signed Drivers will work for me as mine is supported natively and named "USB Audio 2.0(SU1)".
  5. I laughed reading your post because I thought the same too when I replaced the XMOS's stock 24MHz crystal oscillator with the lower ppm Abracon ASTX-H11. It doesn't make too much sense that the sound got better since all the data goes past the digital isolators and into the FPGA to be reclocked anyway by the CRYSTEK CCHD-575 so I brushed off that idea. The lower ppm should only help with long term drift but perhaps the phase noise or other specs did something. It may just be a placebo thought but nonetheless I am happy that I replaced it anyway. What's imagined can only be beneficial in this context and besides, it was only two dollars and since the SU-1 was being modified, why not just add it in for slight internal satisfactory gains. However only a handful of people are able to do this though upgrade as there is solder on four corners of the oscillator and you'll need a special tool to remove it. That is.. unless you break the oscillator with a nail clipper like I did and cleaned up the soldering pads prior to soldering the new one on. LT3045 has slightly lower noise but PSSR isn't as good as the Sparkos Labs SS1117. I would go with the LT3045 to save money, but if money wasn't a concern I would go with the SS1117 for the faint of heart or to feel a better sense of security that it handles with incoming voltages better.
  6. Thanks for helping him out @elan120 Checking the specs for these polymer caps, I thought they would have better endurance (life) but I guess not. Eh. Still, they are great capacitors and I would happily replace them whenever needed in the future. If I had to do regulator upgrade all over again I would use the LT3045, upgrade to five Nichicon R7's, and probably leave the four multi-layer ceramic capacitors alone.
  7. I don't believe you'll need to change the capacitors or have any need to remove the ceramics if you are using the LT3045. They have the required ceramics on board and the 4 MLCC shouldn't hurt. Just keep all five electrolytic capacitors Nichicon R7 220µF 6.3V. I'm sure @scan80269 has a better explanation on the matter.
  8. I was one of the first to receive an ISO REGEN from the first batch, but unfortunately mine started to make these click and pop noises. Will contact UpTone for an exchange. Will take a little longer for my review but i will surely have one out.
  9. Doesn't turn up anywhere on the website.
  10. The Ghent Audio JSSG USB cable?
  11. 90 degree doesn't look so bad (depending on your setup). It sits right on top of the surface that the SU-1 stands on. I have said the same thing about the Lightning V2 and wanted to look into better performing cables and have experimented with WireWorld Ultraviolet 7 & Starlight 7 in 0.5M (as well as Supra and other brands) but to no avail. For I²S transmission as long as you have a thick enough guage, insulated by PE to reduce triboelectric dischange, double shielded, and flat in design to reduce crosstalk, that's really what matters. The Lightning V2 does what the WireWorld does but at a drastically cheaper price. If you find the pricier one to sound better, then cool. I personally did not thus reason why I kept the lower priced one.
  12. Mine fits but you will need the HDMI cable to be bent downward, and even then only some HDMI cables will work. The right angle cable above can be one or an Apollo AV Lightning V2 can work also due to the thinning strain relief. I don't think a WireWorld would fit though due to the larger sized shell on it's connectors and stiffer cable.
  13. iFi Audio: "The whole repeater circuitry in the iGalvanic addresses all these issues. However, being a "nano" range device, things like power supplies, clocks etc. are not quite of the same high level as those in the iUSB micro. The iGalvanic nano is best considered a iUSB 3.0 nano with galvanic isolation added and operating without external power supply, something made possible by the galvanic isolation of the bus power. The iUSB 3.0 micro remains our "flagship" USB repeater and can be upgraded to offer galvanic isolation by adding the iGalvanic 3.0." (source: https://www.head-fi.org/f/threads/ifi-audio-igalvanic3-0-the-holy-grail-of-audio.839638/page-3) If you've noticed, you can see that I've posted quite a good amount on the iGalvanic thread asking questions awhile back. Thanks for the comments Alex however I was just stating the listed output noise specification and how that doesn't matter as there is more to account and internal design is everything. From your elaboration, it shows why.
  14. I think it would be a great asset for those who run direct USB since the galvanic isolation should also remove AC leakage currents. It offers lower noise (0.5µV) using USB power at up to 1 amperes which is pretty good thanks to USB 3.0 containing more current. It will be interesting to see how it fairs. I was actually suppose to go for this device but it took too long to release thus why I took the plunge into into the ISO REGEN/LPS-1 bundle instead. Do let me know how it turns out for you. Last time I checked it was suppose to be priced at $299 then I think it got increased to $349? Correct me if I'm wrong. It would be better to build yourself a better linear power supply (like an AMB σ11) than to do little modifications on the stock power supply. I have heard of R-Core but I am not too knowledgeable on why it would be better for this purpose. As long as you get your secondary output from the transformer at a good enough efficiency, not much to do. R-Core might be more important for power supply design in DAC, Headphone Amps, or Mono-Block Power Amplification. I agree with everything about @elan120's reply. At this point you're adding in a lot of difficulty for what might end up not offering any sonic benefits at all. Or you may even end up hearing things out of placebo just to justify all the hard work you put into it. Other than the power supply regulator, regulator for the digital board, and optimizing that regulator, there isn't much else. If you have the time and money, it would be best putting it into savings for an LPS-1. No point in adding iUSB 3.0 Micro as the iGalvanic is pretty much the iUSB 3.0 Nano but with galvanic isolation. There's no point in reclocking just to gain a measly 0.4µV of lower noise. The added chain of devices might be more against what you end up trying to improve. At this point it's hard to tell which is better. Both UpTone and iFi Audio has their own type of USB reconditioning for awhile now. These new products each have their own line of improvements. UpTone sourcing outside power with the ISO REGEN and iFi Audio doing it all bus powered but uses fancy active noise cancelation. UpTone's device is slightly above 4µV in noise whereas iFi's is 0.5µV but noise isn't everything. Just like how the SU-1 being powered by the lower noise iPower still doesn't sound as good as being powered by the slightly higher noise LPS-1. Design is everything.
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