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POLL: What USB cable are you using?


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Honestly I did not notice any big difference between the starlight and the cheap printer type cable that came with the dCS? I think it nentioned in the manual that they expect users to change to their own cable anyway.

 

But I am never bothered to try to discern the differences between accessories. I treat each of these changes as baby steps, and made sure I at least have cabling and accessories that do not totally embarrass the matching equipment.

 

This includes dedicated spurs and a separated power main box, cabling, passive power filters and equipment supports.

 

To me all these attention to details add up to better enjoyment, albeit some may only be for peace of mind. But as long as I do not get overboard I am ok with a little placebos.

 

 

 

Macbook Pro/MacMini/dCS Debussy/Cambridge 650BD[br]Vitus Audio SS-010/Living Voice OBX-R2 Speakers/Ultrasone Edition 8 phones[br]Airport Express/Meridian AD88[br]

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I've used:

 

Belkin

Synergistic Tesla Tricon

Wireworld UV, Starlight and Silver Starlight

Custom AR-T made cables that came with my AR-T Legato

 

Of the three, the biggest gains were those with the biggest jumps. That is, going from Belkin to Synergistic Tesla Tricon. The difference between the Tricon and the Silver Starlight were too subtle to reliably pick out on my current system. I found that the custom AR-T cables also sounded pretty much indistinguishable from my Tricon, so I'm currently using them.

 

When/if my Berkeley Audio Alpha USB ever shows up, I'll be looking to try out a different USB cable. I'm most interested in the WyWires or the Acoustic Revive USB-SP or maybe having someone do up another custom job.

 

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I use a Kimber Silver USB cable; it came free from the seller of my HRT Music Streamer Pro USB DAC (which I am surprised to find have never been reviewed here). I haven't done an A/B with a generic USB printer cable. It's blue and it matches the color of my MS Pro.

 

Digital: Mac Mini/Roon Core/Optical Module->long run of fiber->EtherREGEN->SOtM UltraNeo->Schiit Gumby DAC. Shunyata Sigma Ethernet/Alpha USB Amplification: First Sound Presence Deluxe 4.0 preamp, LP70S amp Speakers: Harbeth 30.2/Power/Cables: Shunyata Everest 8000, Shunyata Sigma XC and NR, Alpha XC and NR, & Venom 14 Digital PCs, Alpha V2 ICs and SPs.  

 

 

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I use a 1m Cardas Clear USB cable with my HRT Streamer II+ and think it sounds fine. I haven't really done much comparative testing with a generic printer cable (one track once only, before I got bored). I bought it because the importer of the HRT Streamer II+ recommended it to me. It is an attractive blue which goes nicely with the blue Cardas Clear Light interconnect I use and the grey of the HRT Streamer.

 

System (i): Stack Audio Link > Denafrips Iris 12th/Ares 12th-1; Gyrodec/SME V/Hana SL/EAT E-Glo Petit/Magnum Dynalab FT101A) > PrimaLuna Evo 100 amp > Klipsch RP-600M/REL T5x subs

System (ii): Allo USB Signature > Bel Canto uLink+AQVOX psu > Chord Hugo > APPJ EL34 > Tandy LX5/REL Tzero v3 subs

System (iii) KEF LS50W/KEF R400b subs

System (iv) Technics 1210GR > Leak 230 > Tannoy Cheviot

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I have tried the Belkin Gold and Kimber Cu too. I believe the WireWorld is slightly better in my system but it may be because of the length. The Belkin and Kimber were 5m and the WireWorld is 2m.

 

Magnepan 3.7i speakers, REL S/3 sub, PS Audio BHK250 amp, Wyred4Sound DAC2 DSDse, Server - Atom N2800 motherboard, 4GB RAM, 500GB SSD running Windows Server 2012, Audiophile Optimizer 1.40 and JRiver MC 21.

 

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Frankly, I do not know. My USB DAC came with a cable, so that's probably what I use now. Might be another one though; I have quite a few lying around.

 

I should look for something that has better connectors that can stand plugging and unplugging frequently better as this one starts to cause weird noises if I only give it a hard look :)

 

Probably will pick up a cheap AudioQuest or something similar; I do not believe it will change the sound, but they should have more sturdy connectors. If anyone has a recommendation for a sturdy cable, please let me know!

 

Regards,

Peter

 

 

 

“We are the Audiodrones. Lower your skepticism and surrender your wallets. We will add your cash and savings to our own. Your mindset will adapt to service us. Resistance is futile.” - (Quote from Star Trek: The Audiophile Generation)

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Works for me!

 

MacMini (late 2010 w/ 4 gb @ 10.9.5) dedicated to digital music (hi-res @24/96 FLAC & lossless @16/44.1) via Audirvana+ 1.5.12 * thru AQ Carbon USB to MF V-Link 192 to MF M1 DAC via Mogami Gold AES (XLR) * out to Sennheiser HD800 driven by Burson Audio HA-160 OR (when wife not home!) out to Paradigm Studio 60s driven by Golden Tree Audio SE-40 tube stereo amp * MacBook (lossey @iPod/iPad/iPhone/AppleTV + general computing) * MacBook Pro (late 2011) @ripping/tagging DVD-Audio + Blu ray Audio & for travel via Fiio E-17 * iPhone5 64gb w/ FLAC player

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It's a digital connection - as long as it gets the bits from one end to the other, it doesn't matter.

 

Seriously, I've never seen a difference between one HDMI cable vs. another - same for USB, so long as the connections are sound at each end. The analog world is a different matter.

 

John Walker - IT Executive

Headphone - SonicTransporter i9 running Roon Server > Netgear Orbi > Blue Jeans Cable Ethernet > mRendu Roon endpoint > Topping D90 > Topping A90d > Dan Clark Expanse / HiFiMan H6SE v2 / HiFiman Arya Stealth

Home Theater / Music -SonicTransporter i9 running Roon Server > Netgear Orbi > Blue Jeans Cable HDMI > Denon X3700h > Anthem Amp for front channels > Revel F208-based 5.2.4 Atmos speaker system

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It's a digital connection - as long as it gets the bits from one end to the other, it doesn't matter.

 

Seriously, I've never seen a difference between one HDMI cable vs. another - same for USB, so long as the connections are sound at each end. The analog world is a different matter.

 

The "bits" actually move through the cable encoded into analog form (think of the 1s and 0s as waves of given amplitudes). While virtually any USB (or S/PDIF, don't know anything about HDMI) cable will transmit this analog signal well enough that you can get the 1s and 0s out the other end in the same order, so you're "bit perfect" and don't have audible dropouts in the signal, the cable can be responsible for changes in the arrival times of the 1s and 0s at the receiving end of the cable vs. the sending end. This is jitter, which has well-studied audible effects.

 

So yeah, even a "digital" cable can cause audible differences in sound quality, not via voodoo but by means that are well understood scientifically.

 

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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Cardas 2m

 

I didn't want to hear a difference. I really didn't. I knew I could sell it for what I paid for it, so, what the heck?

 

I still use Monoprice HDMI cables. Haven't found anything better.

 

Auctioneer: How much do I hear?[br]Audience member: That\'s metaphysically absurd, man! How can I know what you hear?[br] — The Firesign Theatre, [br] Don\'t Crush That Dwarf, Hand Me the Pliers

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Thank you to everyone that responded to the poll. So far 29 respondents have named 37 cables in use. The list of cables breaks out as follows:

 

Qty Brand / Model

7 Generic

6 Wireworld / Starlilght

3 Wireworld / Ultraviolet

2 Audioquest/ / Carbon

2 Cardas / Clear

2 Kimber / Silver

1 AR-T / Custom

1 Audioquest / Forest

1 Audioquest / Cinnamon

1 Belkin

1 Furutech / GT2

1 Locus / Axis

1 Monster

1 Nordost / Blue Heaven

1 Oyen Digital / USB3.0

1 Pangea

1 Radio Shack

1 Synergistic / Tricon

1 Transparent Audio

1 WyWires / LITESPD

 

Average cable length is sketchy. Cable length was identified on 15 of the 37 cables. The average length of the 15 cables was 1.3 meters. The longest cable was 5 meters and the shortest cable was 0.5 meters.

 

 

 

\'08 MacMini/OS X 10.7/4G/160G SSD - iomega 1TB - Pure Music 1.82 /Amarra 2.3.1 - Weiss DAC202 - Kimber Select KS1120 XLR 1M - Bel Canto REF1000 MKII - Audience AU24 2.5M - Magnepan 1.7[br]\'08 iMac 24\"/4G/500G - Sony CRU_840A - G_Drive 2TB - DroboFS 3TB - Pure Vinyl 3.0 - Metric Halo LI0 8/4 - VPI Classic - Van den Hul Frog - S300iu - Kimber 8TC - KEF Ref 201/2

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A significant improvement over many others I tried (documented on other threads here, as mentioned).

 

I caution those of you who run both USB from your HDD's and USB for your DAC. Make darn sure they are on separate USB busses or you are hurting your chances. Best to use fw to HDD (or use a NAS or something) for USB DAC users rather than same HDD and DAC vehicles.

 

I just upgraded to Synology DS410 NAS so no direct cabling to HDD now.

 

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I presently use an Audioquest Diamond. I feel that there are groups of excellent USB cables, but as for the "best", I honestly don't know. The task of this hobby is to find the best sounding USB cable that compliments the sound of your DAC and system.

 

Steve Plaskin

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. . . why is there still discussion about it? ;)

 

Seriously, I understand jitter induced by digital / analog conversions. Once the signal gets into the USB cable, though, the transport is irrelevant in any sense for audio purposes - either the data arrives correctly or it doesn't. If it doesn't (e.g., in the case of a defective cable), it won't "color" the sound (e.g., make it more or less "transparent" or "tighten up the bass", etc.) - it will create big bunches of white noise, clicks / bursts, dropouts, etc.

 

I can agree what's on either end of the cable (i.e., the ADC / DAC converters) makes a difference, but not the cable itself, unless it's a defective cable to begin with - so buy the $10 cable instead of the $2 and you're done.

 

John Walker - IT Executive

Headphone - SonicTransporter i9 running Roon Server > Netgear Orbi > Blue Jeans Cable Ethernet > mRendu Roon endpoint > Topping D90 > Topping A90d > Dan Clark Expanse / HiFiMan H6SE v2 / HiFiman Arya Stealth

Home Theater / Music -SonicTransporter i9 running Roon Server > Netgear Orbi > Blue Jeans Cable HDMI > Denon X3700h > Anthem Amp for front channels > Revel F208-based 5.2.4 Atmos speaker system

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Generic 1.5m

 

Additionally I want to mention that Jud doesn't apparently know what jitter is and that it only arises in digital music systems at analog to digital or digital to analog conversion. Jitter introduced during digital audio transmission (if any) cannot affect the data in any way other than damaging it (leading to loud dropouts and cracks/pops).

 

Listening Room: ALIX.2D2 (Voyage MPD) --> Arcam rDAC --> Marantz PM-15S2 --> Quadral Wotan Mk V

Drinking Room: ALIX.2D2 --> M2Tech hiFace 2 --> Cambridge Audio Azur 740C --> Rotel RC-06/RB-06 --> B&W XT4

Home head-fi: Grado SR80i, Sennheiser HD 650

On the go head-fi: Sennheiser IE 8

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Between a cheapie cable, say a $0.99 job from the Dollar Store, and a Belkin Gold (available for between $8 - $12) or an AudioQuest Forest ($28).

 

I can certainly hear a distinct difference between those two classes of cables, yet the bits all get there the same way over both cables.

 

Some people, whose opinions I respect, say they have not heard a difference when trying that, while certain people can hear the difference in USB cables without even trying. My wife, for example, can clearly hear the difference between an AudioQuest Forest and Cinnamon cable, while I cannot hear any difference at all.

 

She will be passing by, cock her head for a second, and then annouce that I changed the cables "yet again?!" I do it sometimes just to tease her. Yet, she cannot hear a difference between iTunes and Amarra or Pure Music, unless I set Pure Music to up-sample.

 

-Paul

 

Anyone who considers protocol unimportant has never dealt with a cat DAC.

Robert A. Heinlein

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"I can agree what's on either end of the cable (i.e., the ADC / DAC converters) makes a difference, but not the cable itself, unless it's a defective cable to begin with - so buy the $10 cable instead of the $2 and you're done."

 

It is clear from the above comment that you have not auditioned any of the better USB cables vs. the "$10" cable in a high end system. All you have to do is try one to realize that they do make a difference.

Why? Considering the case of well implemented async USB DACs, no one really knows, and people only speculate about what is responsible for the sonic difference-but just because the exact causes of the differences are not understood, does not make these differences any less real. The differences are not difficult to hear if you listen.

 

SO/ROON/HQPe: DSD 512-Sonore opticalModuleDeluxe-Signature Rendu optical with Well Tempered Clock--DIY DSC-2 DAC with SC Pure Clock--DIY Purifi Amplifier-Focus Audio FS888 speakers-JL E 112 sub-Nordost Tyr USB, DIY EventHorizon AC cables, Iconoclast XLR & speaker cables, Synergistic Purple Fuses, Spacetime system clarifiers.  ISOAcoustics Oreas footers.                                                       

                                                                                           SONORE computer audio

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Additionally I want to mention that Jud doesn't apparently know what jitter is

 

Can we agree to use the Wikipedia definition?

 

Jitter is the time variation of a periodic signal in electronics and telecommunications, often in relation to a reference clock source. Jitter may be observed in characteristics such as the frequency of successive pulses, the signal amplitude, or phase of periodic signals. Jitter is a significant, and usually undesired, factor in the design of almost all communications links (e.g., USB, PCI-e, SATA, OC-48). In clock recovery applications it is called timing jitter.

 

Time domain variations introduced into the signal (which is, remember, digits encoded in an analog signal) as it passes through a USB cable would seem to me to meet that definition.

 

In adaptive USB it's easy to see how such variations would affect the jitter seen at the DAC. For async USB I don't know how that would work - I wonder what the reference is against which jitter is measured with async USB - but even there I've heard repeatable differences between cables, sometimes in ways I did not expect ($30 cable sounding better than a $90 cable), sometimes in ways I did ($110 cable sounding better than a $30 cable from the same manufacturer).

 

Jitter introduced during digital audio transmission (if any) cannot affect the data in any way other than damaging it (leading to loud dropouts and cracks/pops).

 

Then since the Nyquist theorem says 44.1kHz is an adequate sampling frequency (actually things aren't quite that simple, but as long as we're being absolutists) and jitter makes no difference except for gross dropouts, you can save yourself a lot of money with a $25 CD player or an iPod and listen to perfect sound forever.

 

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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I have a question:

 

As jitter is a random event, how can it affect the reproduction of sound in the same way every time?

 

EDIT: I am talking about anything besides jitter at the DAC-IC.

 

Regards,

Peter

 

“We are the Audiodrones. Lower your skepticism and surrender your wallets. We will add your cash and savings to our own. Your mindset will adapt to service us. Resistance is futile.” - (Quote from Star Trek: The Audiophile Generation)

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