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My speakers come with these foam insert thingies that you have the option of (I can't type this with a straight face) inserting into the rear opening of the speaker. Allegedly this modulates the bass response. (I cynically believed they designed the speakers sub-optimally (pun-intended), and added this as a cheap and cheezy fix.

 

Anyway, in the course of experimentation, I managed to push one of these things all the way in, and it has fallen into the inner chamber. Is there a safe way to extract it?

 

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Drivers get blown from time to time and it's usually not too difficult to remove one. Can you remove the woofer and then take a look around inside the cabinet for the missing thingie?

 

Cheers,

 

Ross

 

Toshiba Satellite P300 laptop--Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit--M2TECH hiFace USB-S/PDIF interface-->coaxial output cable-->

 

MacBook Pro--Sierra--optical output cable-->

 

Raspberry Pi 2--Pixel--USB output cable-->

 

Simaudio MOON 100D DAC (USB, coaxial and optical connections in use)--Yamaha RX-V640 receiver

 

--Grant Fidelity Tube DAC-09 (with NOS Raytheon 5670)--used as bypassable vacuum tube preamp stage--Topping TP60 stereo power amplifier--one pi bass reflex speakers--homebuilt--plans from Wayne at pispeakers.com

 

--QSC model 5.1 stereo power amplifier--ACI Rage 12" subwoofer in homebuilt sealed 2 ft^3 enclosure

 

--Denon AH-A100 headphones

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This looks like it has a huge potential for turning a small problem into a huge one. The screw heads are non-standard and the speakers are still under warranty, so I am a bit reluctant to do this. With my luck, I would apply to little or too much torque to the woofer reassembling it and ruin the sound and/or the speaker itself. Maybe I will just leave it in there and get a new one.

 

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You might ought to try getting a tool for the drivers regardless. Typically these screws will need to be tightened once a year. In your locale it may not be as often as mine, but the drivers need to be seated well onto the baffle board. From the photos only, it looks to be an Allen (hex) head. It is really quite simple. Use a hand tool, not a power tool and it will be straight forward. An Allen wrench is about a buck, a set of them $7.

 

The foam is a common adjustment device.

 

Forrest:

Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA

DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP>

Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz

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A T-5 is pretty small- something that you would find in your Mac Mini- T-15/20/25 maybe?. Just use a hand driver and not an electric(cordless) one. They sell these in the replaceable hexagonal versions FWIW.

 

"PS: It is easy when you have as many opportunities present themselves as I do..."-

 

He he, I can relate... Unless you can get your hand into the port, pulling the driver is about the only feasible option besides pushing the other one in to match!

 

Forrest:

Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA

DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP>

Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz

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If you're worrying about applying too much torque, I suggest you contact the speaker manufacturer and ask for their recommended torque settings and get yourself a Wheeler Fat Wrench.

 

From your owners' manual:

 

"you want to reduce the volume of bass without

moving the speakers further from the wall, fit the foam

plugs or, for less severe bass reduction, the foam rings

in the port tubes."

 

 

 

 

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