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What’s more important, Streamer or DAC?


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Hi all,

 

I’ve been thinking about this a lot and wanted to see if anyone had some thoughts about a digital setup. 

 

The main question I have is: are you better off with a high end streamer that has a good built in Dac (like the Lumin D2) or connect to a lower end dac like a Gumby? Or a lower end streamer (like the bluesound node2 or UltraRendu/Roon) and a good dac like the Schiit yggy or Mytek Brooklyn?  How important is the quality of the streamer?  Trying to figure out the best under $3k option for my digital front end. 

 

Any my thoughts are appreciated!

 

 

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Hi-

I'd say you are better off with a good DAC and and a good streamer (separates). Unless you insist on one box. IME the PS for the streamer makes a noticeable difference. 

I'm not sure how you came to classify the UltraRendu (or even the mRendu) as  a low end streamer - I think both can realistically be called high end when matched with a good PS. 

 

For the kind of money you are talking about I'd put the majority into the DAC - unless you know of a modestly priced DAC you think is as good as more expensive ones. Say the micro or ultra Rendu with a good PS and a DAC you like with the rest of the money. 

Main listening (small home office):

Main setup: Surge protector +>Isol-8 Mini sub Axis Power Strip/Isolation>QuietPC Low Noise Server>Roon (Audiolense DRC)>Stack Audio Link II>Kii Control>Kii Three (on their own electric circuit) >GIK Room Treatments.

Secondary Path: Server with Audiolense RC>RPi4 or analog>Cayin iDAC6 MKII (tube mode) (XLR)>Kii Three BXT

Bedroom: SBTouch to Cambridge Soundworks Desktop Setup.
Living Room/Kitchen: Ropieee (RPi3b+ with touchscreen) + Schiit Modi3E to a pair of Morel Hogtalare. 

All absolute statements about audio are false :)

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  • 1 month later...

@Rubytuesday just curious as to why you call the Schiit Gungnir ‘a lower end DAC’? I would think 1250$ for newest multi bit with Gen 5 USB would be far from ‘lower end’(and I think Schiit promotes it as Yggy ‘junior’ and is described as such by others on CA) my premulti bit certainly isn’t and at 800$+ wasn’t ‘lower end’ to me and still sounds spectacular. The BlueSound Node 2 sounds interesting does have Burr Brown DAC’s  but you could bypass them using the Toslinkoptical out to the gumby since only draw back is there is no USB out but some say SQ is better via toslinkoptical or digital out.

I am thinking of the new Gungnir plus the BS Node 2-still less than Lumin D2- the only draw back is BS Node 2 is not compatible with A+3 and I don’t know about ROON Qobuz and TIDAL. There has been negative comments about the Mytek in terms of support plus it is not all made in USA like Schiit products.

bobbmd

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To answer you question, I believe a system will never sound better then it’s weakest link, so both components matter. The streamer can have a huge effect on the total sound. The Gungnir multibit is a very good dac. Combined with an sonore or Sotm streamer and a quality power supply like the lps-1 or sps-500 you’ll have a very good system that can be easily upgraded when you feel the need.

 

 

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As always take care of your front end.

DigitalDac: Chord DAVE, Amp: MC275 Mono, Preamp: FirstSound, Source: Esoteric K01X, Cable: TaraLab GME interconnect,
CASSOtM Trifecta Mod 75ohm MCI, TheLinearSolution TCXO Router

Analog: SME 20/2, SME V, Skala, Esoteric C03 Phono

 
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whatever you do, get something that supports DSD if you are concerned with what is better.

 

With $3K i would get a qutest and decide later if you even need a streamer.

 

I used to be a "hard sell" on enet over usb, as i always preferred enet over usb, despite convenience....but once i got a DSD streamer/dac that had usb isolation, i am getting DSD SQ that sounds just as good as enet for the first time out the usb port.

 

The qutest has galvanic isolation, and I don't think you will need any usb toys with it when connecting to a pc, nor any need to deal with enet anymore....jmo

 

If you like the convenience of one box solution, the Auralic Altair has all the checkmarks checked...

x DSD

x Streamer

x LPS

x ultra low noise femto clocks

x under $2k (used about $1200)

x also has many other inputs (aes, tosllink,usb,coax,enet)

x roon and dlna

x balanced inputs

ALTAIR-4.jpg?v=1499416702

 

Now if someone could make a similar box that was more android or pc friendly and had es9038 dual mono design, at same pricepoint...then we would really have something.

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This is simple: Everything Matters.

 

That said, my new DAC build has been a really big step up in performance over my previous one.  Considering that a DAC is both a digital AND analog component, it is pretty clear to me that there is more room for sonic improvement in the DAC than there is in the streamer.

 

But, to get the best sound you will need the best streamer and the best DAC.  Although I do believe there are some on this forum who are paying way too much attention to esoteric (and inaudible) details of Ethernet audio... 

SO/ROON/HQPe: DSD 512-Sonore opticalModuleDeluxe-Signature Rendu optical with Well Tempered Clock--DIY DSC-2 DAC with SC Pure Clock--DIY Purifi Amplifier-Focus Audio FS888 speakers-JL E 112 sub-Nordost Tyr USB, DIY EventHorizon AC cables, Iconoclast XLR & speaker cables, Synergistic Purple Fuses, Spacetime system clarifiers.  ISOAcoustics Oreas footers.                                                       

                                                                                           SONORE computer audio

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Signature is up to date.  Previous DAC was: DIY (Twisted Pear Audio) Buffalo IIIse (ESS 9018 chip), with NTD-1 v.4 I/v stage, and Sonore USB interface with integrated oversampling, custom digital filters.  Very sophisticated power supplies in this build as well.

New DAC is: Buffalo PRO (ESS 9038 chip), with Mercury I/V stage and Amanero USB interface, isolated and re-clocked via Twisted Pear Audio Hermes and Cronus modules.  Very sophisticated power supplies in this build as well...

The new DAC does not use the Sonore interface because I now oversample all PCM to DSD 128 using Audirvana+ (in my experience the ESS chips respond very well to DSD input).  I also use just one clock in my new DAC, as everything coming in is DSD, I only need the single 45.1584 clock frequency.  

SO/ROON/HQPe: DSD 512-Sonore opticalModuleDeluxe-Signature Rendu optical with Well Tempered Clock--DIY DSC-2 DAC with SC Pure Clock--DIY Purifi Amplifier-Focus Audio FS888 speakers-JL E 112 sub-Nordost Tyr USB, DIY EventHorizon AC cables, Iconoclast XLR & speaker cables, Synergistic Purple Fuses, Spacetime system clarifiers.  ISOAcoustics Oreas footers.                                                       

                                                                                           SONORE computer audio

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24 minutes ago, barrows said:

Signature is up to date.  Previous DAC was: DIY (Twisted Pear Audio) Buffalo IIIse (ESS 9018 chip), with NTD-1 v.4 I/v stage, and Sonore USB interface with integrated oversampling, custom digital filters.  Very sophisticated power supplies in this build as well.

New DAC is: Buffalo PRO (ESS 9038 chip), with Mercury I/V stage and Amanero USB interface, isolated and re-clocked via Twisted Pear Audio Hermes and Cronus modules.  Very sophisticated power supplies in this build as well...

The new DAC does not use the Sonore interface because I now oversample all PCM to DSD 128 using Audirvana+ (in my experience the ESS chips respond very well to DSD input).  I also use just one clock in my new DAC, as everything coming in is DSD, I only need the single 45.1584 clock frequency.  

 

Cool. This one? http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/digital/buffalosep.aspx

 

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That is the DAC board, there is a lot more to it than that though.  You need an I/V stage (Mercury), some kind of input stage (USB for me), and then many power supplies.  I have built six or seven DIY DACs using the Twisted Pear kit parts, and have learned much along the way about how to get the best out of them.  I use self designed custom power supplies, and change parts on the I/V stage board for better performance.  But the twisted Pear kits are an excellent starting point.  Russ White (Twisted Pear designer) has probably done more PCB board layouts for the ESS chips than anyone, he has been working with the ESS chips since their inception. 

SO/ROON/HQPe: DSD 512-Sonore opticalModuleDeluxe-Signature Rendu optical with Well Tempered Clock--DIY DSC-2 DAC with SC Pure Clock--DIY Purifi Amplifier-Focus Audio FS888 speakers-JL E 112 sub-Nordost Tyr USB, DIY EventHorizon AC cables, Iconoclast XLR & speaker cables, Synergistic Purple Fuses, Spacetime system clarifiers.  ISOAcoustics Oreas footers.                                                       

                                                                                           SONORE computer audio

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11 hours ago, barrows said:

That is the DAC board, there is a lot more to it than that though.  You need an I/V stage (Mercury), some kind of input stage (USB for me), and then many power supplies.  I have built six or seven DIY DACs using the Twisted Pear kit parts, and have learned much along the way about how to get the best out of them.  I use self designed custom power supplies, and change parts on the I/V stage board for better performance.  But the twisted Pear kits are an excellent starting point.  Russ White (Twisted Pear designer) has probably done more PCB board layouts for the ESS chips than anyone, he has been working with the ESS chips since their inception. 

 

Very nice indeed. I was looking around their site and just realised it's all DIY parts and sections. I thought they sold fully assembled units but doesn't look like it.

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On 12/24/2017 at 4:59 AM, Rubytuesday said:

Hi all,

 

I’ve been thinking about this a lot and wanted to see if anyone had some thoughts about a digital setup. 

 

The main question I have is: are you better off with a high end streamer that has a good built in Dac (like the Lumin D2) or connect to a lower end dac like a Gumby? Or a lower end streamer (like the bluesound node2 or UltraRendu/Roon) and a good dac like the Schiit yggy or Mytek Brooklyn?  How important is the quality of the streamer?  Trying to figure out the best under $3k option for my digital front end. 

 

Any my thoughts are appreciated!

 

 

The streamer is really important. It must have the ability to do all the things you want it to do, a good UI etc.

A dac is the thing which will determine the sound quality going forward though. 

Don't buy a streamer which locks you into a primitive UI and limited features. 

You are not a sound quality measurement device

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  • 1 year later...
On 7/8/2019 at 4:41 AM, arcman said:

I know many advocate a separate streamer and Dac, however, wouldn't the USB connection between the two be a weak link that would be best eliminated? Of course you are using quality separate components

These are not mutually exclusive. I have not used USB for audio in years. Optical ethernet.

 

To the OP. Regarding the DAC, just make sure you are able to select the filters in the DAC since your preference on a minimum phase versus linear phase filter can make or break your DAC experience. I know it did for me. And, find a setup that avoids USB.

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This thread may be out of date, but the MYTEK Brooklyn Bridge is a dac and streams via Ethernet (an all in one). I like it and run it in my office system. Not the last word in a dac, but a very solid performer at about $2,700. If you can stretch, it benefits from a linear psu. 

 

I don’t know the price of the Lumin T1. I think it’s a lot more. Once heard it at a show, and it sounded really good. 

- Mark

 

Synology DS916+ > SoTM dCBL-CAT7 > Netgear switch > SoTM dCBL-CAT7 > dCS Vivaldi Upsampler (Nordost Valhalla 2 power cord) > Nordost Valhalla 2 Dual 110 Ohm AES/EBU > dCS Vivaldi DAC (David Elrod Statement Gold power cord) > Nordost Valhalla 2 xlr > Absolare Passion preamp (Nordost Valhalla 2 power cord) > Nordost Valhalla 2 xlr > VTL MB-450 III (Shunyata King Cobra CX power cords) > Nordost Valhalla 2 speaker > Kaiser Kaewero Classic /JL Audio F110 (Wireworld Platinum power cord).

 

Power Conditioning: Entreq Olympus Tellus grounding (AC, preamp and dac) / Shunyata Hydra Triton + Typhoon (Shunyata Anaconda ZiTron umbilical/Shunyata King Cobra CX power cord) > Furutec GTX D-Rhodium AC outlet.

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