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Help in Selecting a Sub for Vanatoo T1's


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Hello I recently purchased a pair of T1's for my office and I found that due to my computer monitor being forced to be placed in the corner of the room, the T1's do not perform well in regards to low end. When I tested them against a flat wall, the bass was much stronger. 

 

I was thinking that adding a sub would help but during my research I noticed that many people comment on the T1's 125 Hz sub-out Cutover.

 

This is way above my head. 

 

Would the SVS SB-1000 work and blend well with this Cutover? 

 

Or would I be better off returning the T1's for something else. 

 

Thanks. 

 

 

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Looks like your first post.  Welcome to Computer Audiophile. 

 

The owner's manual says connect the sub out to your sub.  Set the sub crossover to the highest level, and the Vanatoo will provide the crossover roll off at 120 hz.  The sub you ask about can be set as high as 160 hz for the crossover.  So set it to 160 hz and the Vanatoo will do one at 120 hz and the sub will never know the difference.  You might have a problem is your sub's highest crossover setting was near or below the 120 hz Vanatoo wants to use. 

 

What will happen is the sub will have flat response to 160 hz.  The Vanatoo will begin a roll off at 120 hz so the signal sent to the sub will also roll off at 120 hz, and the Vanatoo will fill in above that point.  So should work without problems. 

And always keep in mind: Cognitive biases, like seeing optical illusions are a sign of a normally functioning brain. We all have them, it’s nothing to be ashamed about, but it is something that affects our objective evaluation of reality. 

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Thank you for the detailed information. Would you happen to know if the svs performs well at lower volumes? My office is small, say 20x12. I've seen smaller subs but it seems like the go-to is the svs and sealed should work best in smaller rooms. I'm just wondering if a 12" sub would be too much. I would prefer to have a lot of punch and accuracy and not so much rumble. Sorry I know my terminology is not so accurate. Thanks again ! 

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I have no direct experience with the SVS subs though they have a good reputation.

 

I am not so sure one of these two Daytons wouldn't do what you need for less money.  They offer a 45 day no hassle return policy if you wanted to try one out.  I know people with these in video rigs and they work pretty well. 

 

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1000-10-100-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-628

 

https://www.parts-express.com/DisplayProductVideo.aspx?VideoID=1250&zpid=15050

 

Going the other way I have experience with some Rhythmik subs, and they are some of the best I know of (which doesn't mean I know all the good ones).  These definitely are not uncontrolled rumble boxes by any means.  This one is $539. 

 

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/L12.html

 

It has a crossover that only adjusts up to 120 hz.  It does let you select between two rolloff rates. My guess is you could use the slow rolloff combined with the Vanatoo roll-off and it would work okay. 

 

As for being too much for the room, I don't think a single 12 inch is too much for a 12 by 20 room.  If the sub is good, and you adjust levels between sub and main speakers you will be able to avoid objectionable rumble.

And always keep in mind: Cognitive biases, like seeing optical illusions are a sign of a normally functioning brain. We all have them, it’s nothing to be ashamed about, but it is something that affects our objective evaluation of reality. 

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Well I hate to bug you again but I have two final questions. If I decide on the SVS, In looking quickly through the manual, I noticed that the Low Pass Filter dial has an LFE setting. Just to be perfectly clear, I would not use the LFE and instead use the 160Hz setting correct? 

 

Finally, when using the 160Hz setting, I would use an RCA Y-adapter cable and not an LFE cable?

 

Thanks! 

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The LFE position basically bypasses the internal crossover of the sub.  If you were using an AVR then the AVR would feed the signal already rolled off as it needs it to match the rest of the system.  In your case the Vanatoo is also doing  a rolloff so you actually could use the LFE position.  I didn't notice the LFE on the SVS previously when I commented. 

 

You don't need a Y connector.  If set to LFE, then just connect the sub output of the Vanatoo to the LFE input only.  That should give you the best blending between where the Vanatoo begins to cut off low frequencies and where it begins to feed them to the SVS. 

And always keep in mind: Cognitive biases, like seeing optical illusions are a sign of a normally functioning brain. We all have them, it’s nothing to be ashamed about, but it is something that affects our objective evaluation of reality. 

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I am using two SVS SB2000s and am very happy with them. I find that they integrate well without calling attention to themselves and can keep up with my Alnico drivers which are very responsive.

 

Free shipping and returns that fall within the trial period.


"Don't Believe Everything You Think"

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