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Cornan   
5 minutes ago, R1200CL said:

 

My Belden dealer advice me minimum  one meter. Don’t ask me about the theory behind 😀

 

I know, but they do not have a network switch in mind. The distance between the router and the switch is less important.

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R1200CL   
2 hours ago, charlesphoto said:

 

Think I might actually go for the right angle Metz after all, as long as I can determine if it will plug into the microRendu in the orientation I need. Do you know what the A/B options are on the JSSG etehernet cables? I’ll email Ghent as well.

 

If you want, you could ask Ghent not to connect the pairs that makes the cable a 1 GB, but since you have been wise already and chosen a 10/100 device I suppose that wouldn’t matter at all. 

Unless you may like to use that spare pair as the part of the JSSG loop 😀

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20 hours ago, Cornan said:

 

Yes, Alexey will solder everything for you if you ask him nicely. He solder those things like a pro. I can imagine that they will make a awesome contribution to the FMCs. Been there but left it behind since it did'nt compare to wireless adapter/Aqvox switch/copper ethernet. I can imagine that that those voltage regulators makes all the difference since they will reduce leakage into the down-hill FMCs.

If I am wrong I would not hesitate to buy the LT3045s from you!

 

Do you think I could go with a single 1A LT3045 set to 9V vs a series? Trying to save a few $ here and there (still have the rendu 1.4 board upgrade at the top of the list) and would like to put in couple of these in different places (office FMC as well). Thanks, CP

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Cornan   
37 minutes ago, charlesphoto said:

 

Do you think I could go with a single 1A LT3045 set to 9V vs a series? Trying to save a few $ here and there (still have the rendu 1.4 board upgrade at the top of the list) and would like to put in couple of these in different places (office FMC as well). Thanks, CP

 

Yes, the LT3045s works nicely in single as well. The additional LT3045 in series just reduce noise a little further. Just mind that the LT3045s needs drop-down voltage. If you keep the drop-down to 0.7v - 1v they will not even get warm IME. 

BTW. I have plans to try the LT3045s in series with one board on each side of the DC cable instead of directly in series at the powered device. It will be interesting to see if that improves it further? I am just waiting for additional plugs and sockets to get that project going.

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tboooe   
22 hours ago, Cornan said:

 

Yes, Alexey will solder everything for you if you ask him nicely. He solder those things like a pro. I can imagine that they will make a awesome contribution to the FMCs. Been there but left it behind since it did'nt compare to wireless adapter/Aqvox switch/copper ethernet. I can imagine that that those voltage regulators makes all the difference since they will reduce leakage into the down-hill FMCs.

If I am wrong I would not hesitate to buy the LT3045s from you!

Who is Alexey?

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Cornan   
tboooe   
5 minutes ago, Cornan said:

Thank you!  I am going to try this with my FMC.  Do I need to specify the output voltage I want?  If I can supply a 9v input, I assume I will need to get one that drops the voltage from 9 to something like 8v then the second one to 7v?  I don't see those values though as available.

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Cornan   
9 minutes ago, tboooe said:

Thank you!  I am going to try this with my FMC.  Do I need to specify the output voltage I want?  If I can supply a 9v input, I assume I will need to get one that drops the voltage from 9 to something like 8v then the second one to 7v?  I don't see those values though as available.

 

Your welcome! 😊

Yes, you'll need to specify the output voltage you want. You can send Alexey message to see what he has available. Note that there is both 500mA boards and 1A boards. You'll need to check what your FMCs requires. 

Yes, If your FMCs is fine with 7v you set the PSU to 9v and use LT3045s with 8v and 7v in series.

 

 

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Ok, I think I’m starting to get this. If I want to do only one 1A board for my 9V .6A FMC, then set the PSU to 10V (HDPLEX adjustable), and the LT3045 10V in. With a 9V iFI for the office FMC, set to 9V in and don’t worry about the drop out. 

 

Thanks for all of the great info!

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Cornan   
4 minutes ago, charlesphoto said:

Ok, I think I’m starting to get this. If I want to do only one 1A board for my 9V .6A FMC, then set the PSU to 10V (HDPLEX adjustable), and the LT3045 10V in. With a 9V iFI for the office FMC, set to 9V in and don’t worry about the drop out. 

 

Thanks for all of the great info!

 

Your welcome! 😊

Remember that the LT3045 requires minimum 0.7v drop-down. You cannot power a 9v LT3045 with 9v iFi since there is no drop-down voltage. A 9v LT3045 needs to be powered by minimum 9,7v. 

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Cornan   
27 minutes ago, sima66 said:

I need to split one 5V DC lead from Hynes PS to supply 3 components. 

Any thought for the triple splited DC cable?

 

 

If you want a DIY Canare 4S6 version this way is quite simple. Just get 2 pcs 4 way (or 5 way) quick lock terminal block instead of my 3 way ditto.

 

IMG_6600.thumb.JPG.f4eadb07c36548e4583ae74a936d54f6.JPG

 

All positive wires to one terminal block and all negative wires to the other.

 

https://www.google.se/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fimg.banggood.com%2Fthumb%2Fwater%2Foaupload%2Fbanggood%2Fimages%2FEA%2FF4%2F54dc4ba2-81f2-4fc2-b2d2-21c43d1a0043.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.banggood.com%2F5Pcs-235-Pins-Reusable-Spring-Lever-Terminal-Block-Electric-Cable-Wire-Connector-p-1103030.html&docid=4S26XLEAqLtDyM&tbnid=ARKrE13Mr8JZDM%3A&vet=10ahUKEwji_ojIq7TXAhXLZ1AKHcruDcYQMwhtKBcwFw..i&w=600&h=600&client=tablet-android-google&bih=960&biw=600&q=cable terminal block&ved=0ahUKEwji_ojIq7TXAhXLZ1AKHcruDcYQMwhtKBcwFw&iact=mrc&uact=8

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tboooe   
40 minutes ago, sima66 said:

I need to split one 5V DC lead from Hynes PS to supply 3 components. 

Any thought for the triple splited DC cable?

 

Just get two 2 way splitters and connect them.

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sima66   

I will use DIY Canare 4SE6 cable.

Do you think that 8 wires will fit into one hole......if I order two way only?

Does anyone know what is the connecting material inside of the terminal block?

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BigGuy   
18 minutes ago, sima66 said:

I will use DIY Canare 4SE6 cable.

Do you think that 8 wires will fit into one hole......if I order two way only?

Does anyone know what is the connecting material inside of the terminal block?

I have used the Wago connectors which have metal to metal contact inside the connector and the wires are secured extremely well.

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=wago+connector&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=78340207358489&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_2binredxhe_e

 

Number of wires per hole would be predicated on wire gage.

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Cornan   
1 hour ago, sima66 said:

I will use DIY Canare 4SE6 cable.

Do you think that 8 wires will fit into one hole......if I order two way only?

Does anyone know what is the connecting material inside of the terminal block?

 

The Wago connectors that I've got fits 4 Canare 4S6 wires, not more.

 

IMG_6823.thumb.JPG.c12c983b27eee27f9f3969ef952af6d9.JPGIMG_6824.thumb.JPG.da42bf61f494c911de7b8ae592f721db.JPG

 

However, there might be other versions with bigger holes around. Not completely sure though.

 

 

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sima66   

I just received the cable and it can fit 6 wires into the female DC connectors that I already have. That is exactly what I need.

I imagined that the wires are ticker, that's why I was looking for something else!

 

I use this kind of connectors:

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/5x-Male-5x-Female-2-1x5-5mm-DC-Power-Plug-Jack-Adapter-Wire-Connector-for-CCTV/192292738505?hash=item2cc58a55c9:g:-fMAAOSwefVZpmpw

 

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sima66   
3 hours ago, BigGuy said:

I have used the Wago connectors which have metal to metal contact inside the connector and the wires are secured extremely well.

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=wago+connector&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=78340207358489&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_2binredxhe_e

 

Number of wires per hole would be predicated on wire gage.

 

I ordered, just in case, this 5 way 10 pieces, shipping included for $2.39.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-3-5-Way-Reusable-Spring-Lever-Terminal-Block-Electric-Cable-Connector-Wire/142486098372?_trkparms=aid%3D777003%26algo%3DDISCL.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3Df79f397fdfe148ea9d402500424cd679%26pid%3D100012%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D7%26sd%3D332401300319&_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985

 

I don't know what is the difference between this ones and the Wago from Amazon....beside the price!

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BigGuy   
6 minutes ago, sima66 said:

Nice find.     Good price as well.   Probably the same difference as Coca Cola and Cola!  ;-)

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35 minutes ago, sima66 said:

These Wago connectors are very nice, I used them inside my latest AC power box to implement the star wiring. They work great and super easy to use.

 

John S.

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R1200CL   

@Cornan

 

 

Who is Alex ?

 

And I think this cable you're doing is interesting for others as well.

 

If you don't have schematics, maybe pictures and a very simple and good explaination so others can order the same.

 

I think you have separated power from signal, and added JSSG to both pairs. Correct ? The Dual USB JSSG Tweak ?

Estimated price ?

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BigGuy   
9 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

Alex is Aleksandar Tsankov at ATL Hi-Fi https://www.atlhifi.com who made many of my ac mains starquad cables, DC cable with JSSG, starquad & star-earth wired PSD, balanced IT with floating & grounded center tap and of course the USB starquad cable with JSSG.

 

The construction of the USB cable is clearly visable on this picture.

 

20170904_122455-1.thumb.jpg.e7aeb4f3d8b9ac573577ecd145c062da.jpg20170904_194646-1.thumb.jpg.d170101ce554de9e7415fbb33399e621.jpg

 

It is a starquad, so all wires are double. Totally 8  conductors. GND plus 5v and Data- plus Data+ wires are housed in separate shielding sleeves. The insulated JSSG loop is soldered to all four shield ends and are not in contact with the metal parts of the USB A or B plugs. That's basically it!

 

As I said in the other thread I am in contact with Aleksandar and we are working out a optimized version of the USB cable with Mundorf gold/silver wires, silver plated shield sleeves and better plugs. I am only doing this because I think it will be my final USB cable. I want it to be as good as it can be and not unimportant good looking as well. I want it to look something like this cable in the end.

 

usb-passion-i-(improved).thumb.jpg.a75f8f92f4ee786fdd1378c023024ebf.jpg

 

Anyway, the details are still under discussions. I might change the GND wire to pure silver since I beleive that all 0v related wires usually sounds better with high silver content.

 

The price for the original one is around EUR30/pc which is very affordable, especially when you consider the hassle to solder 8 conductors to a small USB plug. I will let you know what the new one will be in the end, but based on the material it will of course be a lot more. Since Aleksandar is away for a week or so and are working on shunt regulators with starquad Kelvin cable and plugs for me as well (for DC cable path) it might take 2-3 weeks before I know how much it will be.

Your description of the custom cable suggest that all bases have been covered but have couple of questions...

 

1) Is it not better to have the 4 data conductors twisted and then shielded rather than D+ separate from D-?  (same with 5V and GND)

2) what was the length of the original 30Eu ($35USD) cable?

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Cornan   
4 minutes ago, BigGuy said:

Your description of the custom cable suggest that all bases have been covered but have couple of questions...

 

1) Is it not better to have the 4 data conductors twisted and then shielded rather than D+ separate from D-?  (same with 5V and GND)

2) what was the length of the original 30Eu ($35USD) cable?

 

1) They are separate! The GND & 5v is in one shield. The Data- and Data+ is in the other separate shield. The JSSG loop is soldered to all 4 shield ends and are not in contact with bare wires or plugs.

2) 50cm

 

😊

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BigGuy   
7 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

1) They are separate! The GND & 5v is in one shield. The Data- and Data+ is in the other separate shield. The JSSG loop is soldered to all 4 shield ends and are not in contact with bare wires or plugs.

2) 50cm

 

😊

Thanks.  Misunderstood "the four shield ends" as being 4 shield rather than 4 ends (of 2 shields) so design makes sense.

 20cm probably keeps it fairly flexible which is good thing.

 

Does gold/silver or even plain silver offer measured advantage for USB transmission vs copper?  I understand that silver is better than conductor than copper but, of the three, gold is the worst.  Or, is gold there to prevent silver corrosion>

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