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1 hour ago, Cornan said:

Today I turned my attention to my main router. It was about time it got its own 12v/1A LT3045. Before I started I monitored the current draw for 10 minutes. I was really surprised how little it pulled since it have a quite big original SMPS of 12v/2.33A. It kept steady around 90mA and would rarely pass 120mA. Anyway, pretty safe with 1A board to say the least, so I plugged it in post Voltcraft floating LPS set to 13v and had a initial listen to Tidal tracks!

 

IMG_6978.thumb.JPG.ccaffda5acf5317c592c9bb2af9cf82e.JPG

 

A definate improvement with more details emerging from the dark. The airial room is bigger. Greater. Quieter. Better separated and detailed in widht and depht. LT3045 is great and router end power improvements and isolation always seems to pay off in my cloud based setup.

 

Now I cannot wait to try the single ps in series (14v>13v/3A>12v/3A) pre my Brooklyn DAC. I hope to have time to get it done on Saturday before I go to a live concert with Iron & Wine! ?

 

IronandWine_BeastEpic_Cover_5x5_300-1024x1024.thumb.jpg.51fcda24096349d2bd8264164a4910f4.jpg

Great tweak to your router!

How do you measure the current draw of the router?

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3 hours ago, Cornan said:

Today I turned my attention to my main router. It was about time it got its own 12v/1A LT3045. Before I started I monitored the current draw for 10 minutes. I was really surprised how little it pulled since it have a quite big original SMPS of 12v/2.33A. It kept steady around 90mA and would rarely pass 120mA. Anyway, pretty safe with 1A board to say the least, so I plugged it in post Voltcraft floating LPS set to 13v and had a initial listen to Tidal tracks!

 

IMG_6978.thumb.JPG.ccaffda5acf5317c592c9bb2af9cf82e.JPG

 

A definate improvement with more details emerging from the dark. The airial room is bigger. Greater. Quieter. Better separated and detailed in widht and depht. LT3045 is great and router end power improvements and isolation always seems to pay off in my cloud based setup.

 

Now I cannot wait to try the single ps in series (14v>13v/3A>12v/3A) pre my Brooklyn DAC. I hope to have time to get it done on Saturday before I go to a live concert with Iron & Wine! ?

 

IronandWine_BeastEpic_Cover_5x5_300-1024x1024.thumb.jpg.51fcda24096349d2bd8264164a4910f4.jpg

Keep us posted! If it works out well for you, I will ask you about how I can do the same and try the same setup with my HDPlex 200W and my Brooklyn:) 

I’m also starting to think maybe I should get some of the LT3045 boards everyone is talking about and try them with the HDPlex to power my switch, router, and modem (maybe my amazon Firebox too)? 

I have 3 HDPlex’s now (2 HDPlex 100W and 1 HDPlex 200w), and I would like to make them safer and potentially increase the sound quality too!  

Where can I buy these from? 

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5 hours ago, mozes said:

Great tweak to your router!

How do you measure the current draw of the router?

 

Thanks! ? My Voltcraft have a current meter on the front panel (my 5 Gopherts too) so it is easy for me If it wasn't tucked inside a cubborn I would have found out the current draw a long time ago. The meter is white and black, so I needed a flash light to monitor it in the dark! ?

I used a small LED voltage meter connected to a DC female plug to set the input voltage and to ensure proper output voltage.

 

 

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4 hours ago, agladstone said:

Keep us posted! If it works out well for you, I will ask you about how I can do the same and try the same setup with my HDPlex 200W and my Brooklyn:) 

I’m also starting to think maybe I should get some of the LT3045 boards everyone is talking about and try them with the HDPlex to power my switch, router, and modem (maybe my amazon Firebox too)? 

I have 3 HDPlex’s now (2 HDPlex 100W and 1 HDPlex 200w), and I would like to make them safer and potentially increase the sound quality too!  

Where can I buy these from? 

 

I bought all the single 0.5A/1A boards from eBay seller Alexey/Idovr. I just saw that he has a his own website where you can order much easier than through eBay. http://www.ldovr.com/product-p/lt3045-a.htm

 

Just let e know I you need assistance buying them. They are really good voltage regs.

 

 

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4 hours ago, mozes said:

A free and effortless tweak

 

I usually leave my system always on. Needless to say it sounds wonderful. 2 days ago I decided to switch off everything for a full day. I switched on today and gave it a couple of hours and then listened to some of my favourite  tracks. I was stunned with pristine sound that I have never heard before in my system. The clarity and dynamics are off the roof. 

Could be static build up? I am not sure, but if you are like me with a system that is on 24hrs, try this trick.

 

 

 

 I always turn my main devices off. However, I have also tried the same thing with network devices. If I restart the wireless adapter, network switch and Aries Mini I usually get a slight increase in SQ. I have always regarded turning off devices as a way to reduce static charges, but with network devices there is certainly more to it.

 

 

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9 minutes ago, steklo said:

 

 

Seems like Alexey's "Mezzanine Power board for Raspberry Pi" is just tailored for that purpose:

 

http://www.ldovr.com/product-p/mpower.htm

 

Feeding it from Stammheim's PSU board with 6V should make a nice solution, shouldn't it?

 

If not tailored it surely looks like a great combo to these eyes as well! :) 

On the other hand, after looking a bit closer, it can be tailored with different modules (prereg, PI power, 2x HAT power and custom out) including LT3045s as well. Quite interesting if your looking for a Pi3 solution.

 

 

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57 minutes ago, steklo said:

 

 

Seems like Alexey's "Mezzanine Power board for Raspberry Pi" is just tailored for that purpose:

 

http://www.ldovr.com/product-p/mpower.htm

 

Feeding it from Stammheim's PSU board with 6V should make a nice solution, shouldn't it?

Steklo,

 

Thanks for that find! Yup, that would be a fab solution. While still a pretty advanced DIY, this provides a great framework for that effort!!!!!!

 

I'll be ordering 1 or 2 presently.

 

Again, thanks!!!!

 

Greg in Mississippi

Everything Matters!

2 systems... Well-Tempered Refs->ET-2.5->DIY or Lounge LCR MkII phono stages

Standalone digital Sony HAP Z1-ES or SDTrans384/Soekris DAM DAC

Networked digital Zotac PI320-W2 LMS Server -> EtherRegen -> USBBridge Sig -> Katana / Ian GB / Soerkis / Buffalo-IIIPro DACs

Passive S&B TX102 TVC or ladder attenuators -> BHK-250 -> Eminent Tech LFT-VIII / IV / VI

ALL gear modified / DIY'd; cables MIT;  all supplies DIY’d or LPS-1.2s w/HUGE Ultracaps; Audio gear on DIY AC filters + PS Aud P15s; misc gear on separate AC w/filters

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11 minutes ago, steklo said:

The question is if 1A @ 5V is enough when the  3.3V and 1.8V circuits of the Pi are fed each with 0.5A in parallel?

I have run RPi's from LPS-1s before, which are rated at 1.1A. My experience is that they will boot sometimes and sometimes not. My LPS's for powering RPi's are rated at 3A. They ALWAYS boot the RPi. Part of the reason I originally setup an OPC Dual 4||LT3042 to be powered from 2 LPS-1s (1 feeding each side and them both sides paralleled at the output) was to get around this AND provide the benefit of LT3042/3045 regulation to the RPi. This is currently my reference supply for an RPi setup, though I expect the Dual 3||LT3045 board from Stammheim that I'll currently using to power my SDTrans384 will supplant it once I try it on an RPi.

 

Based on my experiences with RPis, 1A max works some of the time. 1.5A max works most of the time. >2A max works all of the time.

 

BUT if Alexey is selling them that way, they likely will work ok most of the time, I'd guess.

 

Only way to confirm is ask him... or get one and try.

 

My 2 cents.

 

Greg in Mississippi

Everything Matters!

2 systems... Well-Tempered Refs->ET-2.5->DIY or Lounge LCR MkII phono stages

Standalone digital Sony HAP Z1-ES or SDTrans384/Soekris DAM DAC

Networked digital Zotac PI320-W2 LMS Server -> EtherRegen -> USBBridge Sig -> Katana / Ian GB / Soerkis / Buffalo-IIIPro DACs

Passive S&B TX102 TVC or ladder attenuators -> BHK-250 -> Eminent Tech LFT-VIII / IV / VI

ALL gear modified / DIY'd; cables MIT;  all supplies DIY’d or LPS-1.2s w/HUGE Ultracaps; Audio gear on DIY AC filters + PS Aud P15s; misc gear on separate AC w/filters

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Just now, [email protected] said:

Hi,

 

Originally, module B designed to power Pi, this is TPS7A8300 based 6-µVRMS, RF, LDO Voltage Regulator, can feed PI with 5V/2A, and LT3045 based regulators (C1/C2) is for HAT/DAC power. You can configure C1/2 to power PI also, BUT 1A is a current limit. From my experience it is enough to power PI2 even with USB Wifi dongle and USB memory stick (using Volumio OS), but need to do more tests with PI3. 

 

Modules D/E can be used to feed PI with 3.3/1.8V with DCDC switch removed (to simplify this solution http://www.runeaudio.com/forum/3x-powersupply-for-rpi-t4141-50.html).

 

Actually - only one wire need to be soldered (1.8V), 3.3V Net can be connected from GPIO.   

 

Please note that  TPS7A8300 input voltage limitation is only 6.5V max (another reason to have pre-regulator installed, but it is not mandatory if good power source used).

 

Now i am trying to find good quality Wall Type linear power supply 6.0-6.5VDC/2.5A, and playing with some sort of housing (will post pictures bit later)

 

 

 

Thanks for helping out Alexey! :) 

 

 

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3 hours ago, jaaptina said:

 

Ordered a 7.1V 1A board today. I'll place it between LPS-1 and ultraRendu. Lets hear what it brings!

 

Nice! Be sure to share your adventure with others on this thread. Remember that what ever your impressions are they are valuable for other members! ?

 

 

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4 hours ago, tapatrick said:

When the input voltage is only just above the output’s value, the linear regulator can approach 95% to 99% efficiency.“

 

 What this means is the regulation "Drop Out" voltage which varies between different types of voltage regulators.

 You really need to check the device's Data Sheets to get this figure.

An  LM78xx for example, needs to have >2V above the output voltage to remain in regulation.

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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17 minutes ago, sandyk said:

 

 What this means is the regulation "Drop Out" voltage which varies between different types of voltage regulators.

 You really need to check the device's Data Sheets to get this figure.

An  LM78xx for example, needs to have >2V above the output voltage to remain in regulation.

Yes I understand this, the info is general from the linked article on Digikey and interesting that when kept close to the spec it increases the efficiency of the reg.

Topaz 2.5Kva Isolation Transformer > EtherRegen switch powered by Paul Hynes SR4 LPS >MacBook Pro 2013 > EC Designs PowerDac SX > TNT UBYTE-2 Speaker cables > Omega Super Alnico Monitors > 2x Rel T Zero Subwoofers. 

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18 minutes ago, tapatrick said:

Yes I understand this, the info is general from the linked article on Digikey and interesting that when kept close to the spec it increases the efficiency of the reg.

 

 There is also a small downside to keeping a regulator as cool as possible. Your typical voltage regulator has a small increase in output voltage as it warms up.(Perhaps around 10mV or so)

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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1 minute ago, sandyk said:

 

 There is also a small downside to keeping a regulator as cool as possible. Your typical voltage regulator has a small increase in output voltage as it warms up.(Perhaps around 10mV or so)

 

That's common knowledge in this hobby. It sounds better warmed up, but if it gets too hot it decrease SQ. ?

 

 

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Just now, Cornan said:

 

That's common knowledge in this hobby. It sounds better warmed up, but if it gets too hot it decrease SQ. ?

 

 I was simply stating that there is a small downside to keeping the Input-Output differential as low as possible, as many (including yourself ?) like to do, perhaps due mainly to inadequate heat sinking . 

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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