My (very) mini review of the Singxer SU-1 DDC

[pkane2001]

1 hour ago, Energy said:

Well you know people all over the audiophile market sell dampening feet and all kinds of exotic parts just for micro-vibrations. 

 

I've gone through this audiophile phase about 20 years ago. I'm slowly recovering

 

 

 

[Superdad]

2 hours ago, pkane2001 said:

I've gone through this audiophile phase about 20 years ago. I'm slowly recovering.

 

Yes, it takes a long while to recover from fungus caused by audiophile dampening feet. That's why I keep mine dry.  

The elder among us remember the original TipToes cones.  Another painful malady...

[rafa]

17 hours ago, Energy said:

• (1) LT3045-A replaces stock (1) 3R3 Inductor and ADJ voltage regulator - 1.0V 

 

 

Where you getting 1V regulator, as those from your picture are 1.2V minimum? Will he make 1V for a request or you just adjust them?

[scan80269]

7 hours ago, rafa said:

 

Where you getting 1V regulator, as those from your picture are 1.2V minimum? Will he make 1V for a request or you just adjust them?

You can change the RSET resistor on the board to 10Kohm 1% to get 1.0V output.

 

[Energy]

10 hours ago, rafa said:

 

Where you getting 1V regulator, as those from your picture are 1.2V minimum? Will he make 1V for a request or you just adjust them?

 

You can ask him. He did it for me.

http://www.ldovr.com/category-s/118.htm

 

I would advise purchasing from him directly rather than through ebay. Alexey is a great guy to do business with. Fast and educated responses.

[rafa]

I got first order through ebay. Shouldn't be any difference.

 

I will compare new regulator soon. Currently I have installed first version on Dexa regulator. Will see is ldovr any better.

[[email protected]]

3 hours ago, scan80269 said:

You can change the RSET resistor on the board to 10Kohm 1% to get 1.0V output.

5.1Kohm for 2xLT3045 board

 

[[email protected]]

11 hours ago, rafa said:

 

Where you getting 1V regulator, as those from your picture are 1.2V minimum? Will he make 1V for a request or you just adjust them?

1V option added @ldovr

[RickyV]

Hi alexey,

would it be possible to parallel 3 of your 1A lt3045 boards to make a 3A version?

Probably with Some creative soldering and replacing some components. Would be great if that was possible

[Energy]

1 minute ago, RickyV said:

Hi alexey,

would it be possible to parallel 3 of your 1A lt3045 boards to make a 3A version?

Probably with Some creative soldering and replacing some components. Would be great if that was possible

 

I do know there is a 2A available somewhere else. Not sure about 3A.

 

http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/131-056uv-ultralow-noise-dac-power-supply-regulator-3357v-14ax2.html

[Bimmer100]

2 minutes ago, RickyV said:

Hi alexey,

would it be possible to parallel 3 of your 1A lt3045 boards to make a 3A version?

Probably with Some creative soldering and replacing some components. Would be great if that was possible

Like this?  Dual rail with triple paralleled lt3045’s? Unfortunately these are not cheap and we may not release them since Chinese prebuilt single rail single lt3045’s are incredibly cheap.

 

 

 

[RickyV]

2 minutes ago, Bimmer100 said:

Like this?  Dual rail with triple paralleled lt3045’s? Unfortunately these are not cheap and we may not release them since Chinese prebuilt single rail single lt3045’s are incredibly cheap.

 

 

 

That would be 2x1.5 A not 3A 

3A would be the minimum i need.

[RickyV]

And alexey do you have idea of the peak/ short term current your 1A lt3045 can deliver?

[RickyV]

8 minutes ago, Bimmer100 said:

Like this?  Dual rail with triple paralleled lt3045’s? Unfortunately these are not cheap and we may not release them since Chinese prebuilt single rail single lt3045’s are incredibly cheap.

 

 

 

 

I don’t know but these look familiar, mmmmm

[Bimmer100]

18 minutes ago, RickyV said:

That would be 2x1.5 A not 3A 

3A would be the minimum i need.

You can use both rails together btw. 

There are jumpers to allow to run both rails in parallel.  However you require 3A continuous minimum???? This would get quite warm and can use slight larger heat sink. Never tested anything needing 3A.  But have some diy boards and components to build these if interested. 

[Bimmer100]

1 minute ago, RickyV said:

 

I don’t know but these look familiar, mmmmm

Yes, we considered selling these but are only testing them at this time. The price is a bit steep imho and very few people need this type of psu.  Maybe you do, what would you be powering that needs 3A and at what voltage?

[RickyV]

That is the problem not sure what i need, not measured it yet. But if idea works there would be a few more sales

[Bimmer100]

3 minutes ago, RickyV said:

That is the problem not sure what i need, not measured it yet. But if idea works there would be a few more sales

Would the size of power supply be an issue? These are not very compact imho. I have many sizes of heatsinks. 

i did not design these boards, actually I haven’t touched them for many months and believe maybe they only allow series connection, but if I recall there are single boards for what you need. 

[elan120]

On 1/29/2018 at 12:27 PM, Energy said:

Thank you for looking into it. I believe according to the majority of optimizations for oscillator fixtures is to have a ground plane directly beneath die and eliminate the use of vias (changes impedance and causes reflections) and 90 degree angles.

 

I've been experimenting with trying to make my own carrier board using CAD software but it's a little over my level of expertise.

Hello @Energy,

 

I spend some time the last few days to play with KiCAD, which is one of the PCB layout softwares needed by OSHPARK, but the learning curve is a bit more than I had anticipated.  I am able to get the soldering pads done on both top and bottom side of the carrier board, but to lay down tracks linking top side soldering pads to each corners became an obstacle I have yet to overcome.  I didn't want to hold you up too long, so I thought I will give you this much update.  I will play with this some more, but not sure if I will get past this issue soon.

 

The carrier board I use was done using CAD program, convert to .DXF file, and then convert to g-code to have them cut on CNC machine, and that was much simpler than learning KiCAD.

 

Below are both top and bottom 3D view of the board I got so far to show what I was referring to.

[Energy]

@elan120

 

You've gotten way further than I have. I'm still scratching my head here. It seems you got the existing 5×7.5 mm package soldering pads on there pretty well alongside the NDK's oscillator and it's pads as well. Great job dude. Is there a method on creating a thinner board? Problem is that vias shouldn't be used as it causes impedance fluctuations based on all the "optimizations for oscillators" that I've been reading these past few days. Traces going into Vin should be curved as well. Might as well do it to all of them so it looks uniform and nice. Optimizations also says that having a ground directly beneath helps but i don't know how that's going to work when we want it to be easier to mount. Any ideas? 

[rafa]

You could use something like this:

 

[mourip]

15 hours ago, Bimmer100 said:

Like this?  Dual rail with triple paralleled lt3045’s? Unfortunately these are not cheap and we may not release them since Chinese prebuilt single rail single lt3045’s are incredibly cheap.

 

 

 

 

Are these re-branded boards made by Alexey or are you both sourcing them from the same vendor? Not trying to pin anyone down. Just curious. Either way they are very nice.

[Bimmer100]

12 hours ago, elan120 said:

Hello @Energy,

 

I spend some time the last few days to play with KiCAD, which is one of the PCB layout softwares needed by OSHPARK, but the learning curve is a bit more than I had anticipated.  I am able to get the soldering pads done on both top and bottom side of the carrier board, but to lay down tracks linking top side soldering pads to each corners became an obstacle I have yet to overcome.  I didn't want to hold you up too long, so I thought I will give you this much update.  I will play with this some more, but not sure if I will get past this issue soon.

 

The carrier board I use was done using CAD program, convert to .DXF file, and then convert to g-code to have them cut on CNC machine, and that was much simpler than learning KiCAD.

 

Below are both top and bottom 3D view of the board I got so far to show what I was referring to.

This looks like a nice carrier board. Would be great to have ndk’s as an option for Su1 mods. I’ve yet to try some of the sorted ndk’s I’ve had laying around since the carrier boards I have are not imho ideal. These look good!

 

22 minutes ago, mourip said:

 

Are these re-branded boards made by Alexey or are you both sourcing them from the same vendor? Not trying to pin anyone down. Just curious. Either way they are very nice.

I’m not sure who Alexy is, but this was a product I was considering carrying in our store but still haven’t had time to test it out. There are several diy boards we wanted to offer to our store for general purpose projects. I’ve been consumed with many projects and will eventually get some neat new products in our store for the diy crowd.

[[email protected]]

16 hours ago, RickyV said:

Hi alexey,

would it be possible to parallel 3 of your 1A lt3045 boards to make a 3A version?

Probably with Some creative soldering and replacing some components. Would be great if that was possible

Yes it is possible, but "creative soldering" is required.

 

Problem that it is very difficult to match output voltages precisely, and the board with highest output will supply most of the current.... (see picture1 below).....

But, if you connect "SET" Networks together (lower end of C3/ you can see violet wires) - you will get matched outputs (and currents/picture2)

 

 

[Quasar]

Thanks Alexey for the suggestion and for helping us find the good sound with your kit's. A greeting.