My (very) mini review of the Singxer SU-1 DDC

[scan80269]

3 hours ago, pkane2001 said:

 

Hi Stephan,

 

The 3.3v regulator is powered from the internal 5v LPS and not from the USB power line. Or is there a second 3.3v regulator that I don't know about?

 

There are actually two regulators generating +3.3V.  One is on the upstream side, and takes incoming USB +5V bus power and regulates it to +3.3V to power the XMOS chip and isolator chips.  The other regulator is of course the LD1086 on the downstream side, powering the isolator chips, oscillators, Xilinx FPGA chip, differential driver chip, etc.

 

[pkane2001]

10 minutes ago, scan80269 said:

There are actually two regulators generating +3.3V.  One is on the upstream side, and takes incoming USB +5V bus power and regulates it to +3.3V to power the XMOS chip and isolator chips.  The other regulator is of course the LD1086 on the downstream side, powering the isolator chips, oscillators, Xilinx FPGA chip, differential driver chip, etc.

 

 

Interesting. So would it make sense to improve the XMOS chip power supply as well by providing a better regulator there? What's the stock regulator there?

 

My USB 5v is provided by a battery, so I don't think it'll help me, but, I am curious as to what you think.

[SolidCore]

 

Hello together

 

The 3,3V Regulator for the XMOS is definitely powered from USB Bus. The SU-1 has a galvanic barriere betwen the FPGA, Clock and output, and the USB Side. If the 5V from intern PSU goes to the XMOS, the galvanic Idea isn´t working, cause potential goes from one place to both sides.

I learned this, as i ask me why a better PSU for USB sounds better with the SU-1.

Thats also the Reason, that i install a second PSU only for the USB side of the Board, with own transformer.

Believe me, with 2 PSU the SU-1 sounds so much greater. 

 

@pkane : You have a battery for the USB 5V. Thats also a good idea.

 

Greetings

Stephan

[nick77]

On 7/7/2017 at 4:39 AM, R1200CL said:

 

Nope, a JSSG HMDI version as well. (Soon we will have an Ethernet version also). 

 

 

Did anything ever come of this? Nothing on website??

 

Has there been any further discussion on HDMI cables? Im using the Apollo silver HDMI cable but have a little sibilance I am trying to address, maybe its the cable. I usually don't prefer silver plated copper.  Did anyone find a quality copper version?

[pkane2001]

9 hours ago, nick77 said:

 

Did anything ever come of this? Nothing on website??

 

Has there been any further discussion on HDMI cables? Im using the Apollo silver HDMI cable but have a little sibilance I am trying to address, maybe its the cable. I usually don't prefer silver plated copper.  Did anyone find a quality copper version?

 

I would suggest that you try to measure your system response with a calibrated microphone, first. HDMI cable wouldn't be the first place I would look if I heard sibilance coming out of my speakers. You may find that you have frequency response issues that can be corrected with digital EQ, or possibly with a better speaker placement/room treatments. (my system is similar to yours: SU-1 and Holo Spring)

 

[SolidCore]

Hello together

 

I think harsh Sibilances is mor a problem of simple PSU, Powercable, or cheap Silver Signal Cable. 

 

Greetings

Stephan

 

 

[nick77]

10 hours ago, pkane2001 said:

 

I would suggest that you try to measure your system response with a calibrated microphone, first. HDMI cable wouldn't be the first place I would look if I heard sibilance coming out of my speakers. You may find that you have frequency response issues that can be corrected with digital EQ, or possibly with a better speaker placement/room treatments. (my system is similar to yours: SU-1 and Holo Spring)

 

 

Thanks, but it didn't exist prior to Holo/SU-1 combo, I do have room treatments. 

 

1 hour ago, SolidCore said:

Hello together

 

I think harsh Sibilances is mor a problem of simple PSU, Powercable, or cheap Silver Signal Cable. 

 

Greetings

Stephan

 

Thanks its pretty subtle and I also think it can be addressed with a cable change. I just have to do some more experimenting, the HDMI may not be the culprit but I normally dislike silver plated copper in the chain. I was hoping the Iso Regen would knock it out but didn't happen.

[pkane2001]

4 hours ago, nick77 said:

Thanks, but it didn't exist prior to Holo/SU-1 combo, I do have room treatments.

 

Sibilance is a frequency response issue. Usually above 5KHz. Easy to measure, and can be easy to correct with EQ. When you say you didn't have it before SU-1 and Holo combo, all that could mean is that the components you had in their place were hiding some issues in the rest of your system. These may now be revealed with SU-1 and Holo.

 

Did you try USB input on Holo directly, bypassing SU-1? Does that still have the sibilance issue? If yes, it's not SU-1 or HDMI cable. You can also try any high quality HDMI cable, as long as it's not too long. It doesn't have to be a specialty audio one. I've used a 3ft high-speed (video) HDMI cable and couldn't tell the difference between that and 0.3m specialty one.

 

What software are you using to feed Holo? DSD or PCM? At what rate, what filters? Is Holo running in NOS or OS mode?

[Mogos]

SolidCore thank you for shareing your findings with the new approach to mod the SU-1. Could you make for as a short detailed list of the components you have used for your mod. It will help guys like me who have very little understanding of the electronics and can do only better or worse soldering :). Did you get the PSU boards alredy preasembled? From where did you gey them? Are they coming with the Belleson regulator or you buy it separetly? Could you explain what means "shielded Earth on the primary side" for the triodal transformer.

I have noticed that you have used the casing as the heat sink for the PSU regulators. Are the regulators isolated electricaly from the casing ?

[SolidCore]

 

Hello Mogos

 

My Modifications are not from preassembled parts. You only can do this, if you know something about electronics.

I buy the transformer, rectifiers and so on most on ebay, the Belleson from their homepage.

The Regulator is isolated from Ground, this is a must. 

Shielded Earth means, theres a Earth shielding between the Primary and Secondary side at the transformer. This is great for Audio.

It sounds less nervous, more stable.

 

Here are the most important Components i have used:

30VA Toroidal Transformer for Audio by Vanguard 2x 9V  (R-Core also good)

4 Elna Silmic2 Capacitors 25V 220uF

1 Nichicon Muse Capacitor 25V 220uF (only for USB-Side)

3 Belleson SPZ17 2x 5V + 1x 3,3V

8 Hexfred Rectifiers

 

I cant make a Workaround for everybody. Questions about Details are no Problem.

 

Greetings

Stephan

 

 

 

[Mogos]

Thank you.

[Mogos]

One more question. The PCB with the Hexfred Rectifiers you have done by your self or you have got it with all components on it and only soldered the belleson regulator?

[Duy Le]

I use Elfidelity USB Booster w/ iFi iPower 5V/2A instead of VBus from computer.

 

[Duy Le]

3 hours ago, Mogos said:

One more question. The PCB with the Hexfred Rectifiers you have done by your self or you have got it with all components on it and only soldered the belleson regulator?

You can mod on PSU of  SU-1. In my image I use Schottky Cree.

 

[drmike]

which hexfred rectifiers do ypu use?

thanks,

drmike

[SolidCore]

Hello drmike

 

I have used 4 Ultrafast ultrasoft recovery Diodes VS-HFA08TB60

 

A Hifi-Friend told me, they have good technical data for PSU´s.

I think the Schottky Cree are also very good.

 

Greetings

Stephan

 

[Mogos]

Could you list all other parts of the PSU for the FPGA side. Where to get the PCB borad you have used for the PSU.

[SolidCore]

Hello Mogos

 

You can get any Standart PSU Board, and modify it with Regulator. A Sellarz Superregulator is also a great performer.

Here is another Version of a SU-1 Modifikation. Inside there are the Sellarz-Regulator, R-Core, Silmic2, a Furutech gold AC inlet with Fuse (FI-03), for Highend Power-Cable., and UPOCC Silver cable inside.

 

 

 

 

Its sound so great. Absolut "stressless", you can listen many Hours in one go, and you are never "tired" from the Sound. Voices are so clear, but beautiful warm with Charme and Emotion. Bass is clear and powerful, but never "brabelbrabel" :). Musik is standing in the Room, not in the Speaker-Box. Outstanding.

 

Greetings

Stephan

 

 

 

 

[steklo]

Hi,

 

I wonder if anyone of you having modded your SU-1 have cross-checked with the Schiit Eitr? 

 

Best regards

Stefan

[57gold]

Yo, SolidCore - Who did that last modification pictured above?  

 

DYI or someone who does them as a business?

 

I am useless, no, dangerous with a soldering iron.  Thanks.

[SolidCore]

 

Hello together

 

@57gold

 

The last picture with the PSU Modifikation is by myself.

There are only the best parts inside, i have all checked this with my ears and Music, not only by 

technical data. Some of the Ideas came from this threat. I am very happy with all the Mods.

Thats why i want to say thx.

The Mini-Board for the Sellarz/Belleson can you buy here:

https://www.conrad.de/de/spannungsregler-platine-115576-115576.html

Sellarz type is ULN-HC78A

The 3,3V Regulator which i change on the Mainboard is Belleson SPZ17.

You can find this also in this threat.

The R-Core is a 10VA 2x 6V. One output for XMos, the other for the Mainboard like the original PSU.

The Belleson has a low drop of <1V, the Sellarz 1,5V, so 6V from transformer is ok, after the rectifier 

you have ~8V. 

The Silmic2 on the Board sounds much better than the Panasonic FC. More realistic, more Atmosphere.

You can also get Black Gates, but they are expensive.

 

Greetings

Stephan

 

 

[elan120]

Hello Solid Core, by just looking at the available space for the two caps next to the voltage regulator, it seems to be very tight for two of the Silmic II cap you mentioned to fit (220uA/25V, 12.5mm dia.).  Is it possible for you to show some pictures (maybe from the side) to visualize how you got both to physically fit?

[SolidCore]

 

Hello elan120

 

You mean the 220uF 25V near the DC input on the Mainboard? They dont fit perfekt, cause they are too big. 

You can get them in 10V or 16V, but a higher Voltage sounds a little better.

I put both together in the Board, and form their Wire a little to fit.

If you mean the 3 near the Regulatorboard, they fit perfekt. After the Rectifier is a Nichicon 4700uF for Audio,

and a 1uF Silmic behind. After Regulator theres another 1uF, and a 10uF, all Silmic2.

 

 

Greetings

Stephan

[elan120]

Thank you for the clarification Solid Core, I was referred to the two caps next to the 5VDC input and 3.3VDC regulator, and your picture confirms what I think will have to do in order to fit them in that space.

[Mogos]

Solid Core you did not removed the tiny caps on the PCB. It looks like thay are in place. Some guys have done it. Do you plan do do it?