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My (very) mini review of the Singxer SU-1 DDC


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4 hours ago, BigAlMc said:

 

Bump

 

Any feedback on whether the mysoundaffairs upgrade kit is a worthwhile investment for better SQ?

 

https://www.mysoundaffairs.com/products/singxer-su-1-with-plixir-elite-bdc-modification

 

Many Thanks,

Alan

Personally for about the same money I would just get the LPS-1 and the DC kit from Kitsune.  

12TB NAS >> i7-6700 Server/Control PC >> i3-5015u NAA >> Singxer SU-1 DDC (modded) >> Holo Spring L3 DAC >> Accustic Arts Power 1 int amp >> Sonus Faber Guaneri Evolution speakers + REL T/5i sub (x2)

 

Other components:

UpTone Audio LPS1.2/IsoRegen, Fiber Switch and FMC, Windows Server 2016 OS, Audiophile Optimizer 3.0, Fidelizer Pro 6, HQ Player, Roonserver, PS Audio P3 AC regenerator, HDPlex 400W ATX & 200W Linear PSU, Light Harmonic Lightspeed Split USB cable, Synergistic Research Tungsten AC power cords, Tara Labs The One speaker cables, Tara Labs The Two Extended with HFX Station IC, Oyaide R1 outlets, Stillpoints Ultra Mini footers, Hi-Fi Tuning fuses, Vicoustic/RealTraps/GIK room treatments

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29 minutes ago, tboooe said:

Personally for about the same money I would just get the LPS-1 and the DC kit from Kitsune.  

 

Thanks @tboooe

 

I missed that Kitsune option.

 

I already have an LPS-1 but it's powering my MicroRendu currently. Path would be NAS>MR>SU-1>DAC.

 

But that Kitsune kit and another LPS-1 or similar is intriguing. Also Adrian at Sonore recommended the Sonore Linear Power supply over the LPS-1 so I could consider getting that and moving my LPS-1 onto the SU-1. Bit more painful on the wallet that one tho!

 

Also gets into weird territory where the PSU's cost more than the kit they are powering o.O

Synergistic Research Powercell UEF SE > Sonore OpticalModule (LPS-1.2 & DXP-1A5DSC) > EtherRegen (SR4T & DXP-1A5DSC) > (Sablon 2020 LAN) Innuos PhoenixNet > Muon Streaming System > Grimm Audio MU1 server > (Sablon AES) Mola Mola Tambaqui DAC > PS Audio M1200 monoblocks > Salk Sound Supercharged Songtowers

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Definitely lots of options.  All I know is I (and another member) felt that the LPS-1 definitely improved the sound of the SU-1.  Adding a home made star quad DC cable to feed the SU-1 also improved things for me.  

12TB NAS >> i7-6700 Server/Control PC >> i3-5015u NAA >> Singxer SU-1 DDC (modded) >> Holo Spring L3 DAC >> Accustic Arts Power 1 int amp >> Sonus Faber Guaneri Evolution speakers + REL T/5i sub (x2)

 

Other components:

UpTone Audio LPS1.2/IsoRegen, Fiber Switch and FMC, Windows Server 2016 OS, Audiophile Optimizer 3.0, Fidelizer Pro 6, HQ Player, Roonserver, PS Audio P3 AC regenerator, HDPlex 400W ATX & 200W Linear PSU, Light Harmonic Lightspeed Split USB cable, Synergistic Research Tungsten AC power cords, Tara Labs The One speaker cables, Tara Labs The Two Extended with HFX Station IC, Oyaide R1 outlets, Stillpoints Ultra Mini footers, Hi-Fi Tuning fuses, Vicoustic/RealTraps/GIK room treatments

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12 hours ago, elan120 said:

Thank you, scan80269 for further inputs on Sparkos dropout voltage.  I have not used them in the past, but after looking at their dropout voltage chart, I agree it should work just fine since at around 110mA, their chart show a dropout voltage at around 1.45V, which should regulate the required 3.3V without any issue.

I'm also getting a 111mA max current reading from my modified SU-1 (with Belleson SPZ78 3.3V regulator).  This means the Belleson SPZ / SPM and the Sparkos Labs SS78 / SS1117 discrete regulators are all OK to be used on the SU-1.

 

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11 hours ago, BigAlMc said:

Any feedback on whether the mysoundaffairs upgrade kit is a worthwhile investment for better SQ?

 

https://www.mysoundaffairs.com/products/singxer-su-1-with-plixir-elite-bdc-modification

 

It still contains AC leakage current as it's a linear power supply without separate charge and discharge super capacitor banks unlike what the UpTone LPS-1 can provide. I also doubt it will be as quiet as the LPS-1's TPS7A4700 voltage regulator measuring in at 4uV of output noise. The Plixir can perhaps have noise within single digit microvolts (uV), but surly loses in other areas.

 

For the money I would just get an UpTone LPS-1 with a Kitsune's Singxer SU-1 DC power conversion kit.

11 hours ago, BigAlMc said:

But that Kitsune kit and another LPS-1 or similar is intriguing. Also Adrian at Sonore recommended the Sonore Linear Power supply over the LPS-1 so I could consider getting that and moving my LPS-1 onto the SU-1. Bit more painful on the wallet that one tho!

 

Of course he would recommend his own crazy expensive power supply.

 

Surprising how there's not enough detailed about what's going on inside the unit. There's a shocker. Does it block AC leakage current? Hmm.. Personally I'd get another LPS-1, but that's just me.

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The Uptone LPS-1 gets my vote for powering SU-1 also.  The leakage loop breaking capability of LPS-1 can easily yield a SQ advantage.

 

I have just done some further mods to my SU-1: installed low-ESR polymer caps and replaced the 22.5792MHz Crystek CCHD-575 oscillator with a sorted NDK oscillator soldered onto a carrier board.  Will post a pic in a bit.

 

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Thanks @Energy & @scan80269

 

Yeah I think I'll look into the Kitsune and LPS-1. 

 

Apart from the obvious price difference the Sonore PS is too big as my rack is already pretty full. Plus my existing LPS-1 seems to be doing a great job with my MR. 

 

Cheers, 

Alan 

Synergistic Research Powercell UEF SE > Sonore OpticalModule (LPS-1.2 & DXP-1A5DSC) > EtherRegen (SR4T & DXP-1A5DSC) > (Sablon 2020 LAN) Innuos PhoenixNet > Muon Streaming System > Grimm Audio MU1 server > (Sablon AES) Mola Mola Tambaqui DAC > PS Audio M1200 monoblocks > Salk Sound Supercharged Songtowers

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18 hours ago, scan80269 said:

Here are a couple of pics of my SU-1 with the latest mods.

Thank you for the pics!

Could please post here a photo of back(PCB) side of the unsoldered Crystek? Rumors fly, that they are not original.

Here is a pic from Mouser:

 

cchd-575_SPL.jpg

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Scan80269,  I am very interested in your listening impressions at the end of the day.  Did you note what phase 2 brought sonically, and therefore can map what phase 3 does?  Is it correct to say that clock mods are relatively safe upgrades, assuming the new clocks are better spec'd...or is this a synergy thing, liking baking a cake, and it is not always a musical result to have "better" ingredients?

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25 minutes ago, paulinus said:

Thank you for the pics!

Could please post here a photo of back(PCB) side of the unsoldered Crystek? Rumors fly, that they are not original.

Here is a pic from Mouser:

 

cchd-575_SPL.jpg

Here are pics of a Crystek CCHD-575 24.576MHz oscillator bought from Mouser (upper part) and the CCHD-575 22.5792MHz oscillator I unsoldered from my SU-1 (lower part).

 

 

Crystek_CCHD-575_Bottom.jpg

Crystek_CCHD-575_Top.jpg

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26 minutes ago, scan80269 said:

Here are pics of a Crystek CCHD-575 24.576MHz oscillator bought from Mouser (upper part) and the CCHD-575 22.5792MHz oscillator I unsoldered from my SU-1 (lower part).

scan80269, thank you for the quick respond!!

Reason for my question was a message on our local forum, here, in Russia, that there was no "Crystek" written on PCB. Unfortunately forum member does not post pics yet :(

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29 minutes ago, ted_b said:

Scan80269,  I am very interested in your listening impressions at the end of the day.  Did you note what phase 2 brought sonically, and therefore can map what phase 3 does?  Is it correct to say that clock mods are relatively safe upgrades, assuming the new clocks are better spec'd...or is this a synergy thing, liking baking a cake, and it is not always a musical result to have "better" ingredients?

Ted, I completely agree that better spec'ed components don't always deliver more musical results, so listening is critical for judging the merits (or lack thereof) for any mod.

 

Unfortunately I didn't do a careful listening comparison earlier between phase 1 and phase 2.  I was eager to replace the SU-1 internal LPS with UpTone LPS-1, as other folks have already reported SQ gains having done so, thus I took that as a no-brainer.

 

What I did for phase 3 yesterday:

- replace previously installed aluminum electrolytic (Panasonic FR) caps with low-ESR (5 miilohm) organic polymer caps

- replace Crystek CCHD-575 22.5792MHz oscillator with sorted NDK NZ2520SD soldered onto a carrier board

- replace 24MHz oscillator for XMOS chip with a 10ppm tolerance oscillator (upstream side)

 

My latest setup:

 

HQPlayer PC (HP Envy23 AiO, Win10 RS2) <Cat6> Netgear Orbi satellite (powered by modified Teradak LPS) <Cat6> EMO EN-70HD <Ca5e 100Mbps-only> Sonore microRendu (UpTone LPS-1 powered) <generic USB hard adapter> Intona industrial <Sonore USB hard adapter> Singxer SU-1 (modified, UpTone LPS-1 powered) <ultra slim HDMI cable 1.5'> Holo Audio Spring DAC <XLR cables> AudioDesign XLR switch <XLR cables> Jensen ISOMAX PI-2XX <XLR cables> Auralic Taurus MKII headphone amp <> Sennheiser HD800 with Stefan Audio Art balanced Endorphin cable

 

The two UpTone LPS-1 are powered by a pair of modified Breeze Audio "el cheapo" LPS units set to 11V output.

 

That's a lot of boxes, not including cables, USB adapters or Ethernet isolator!

 

Listening impressions:

- Phase 3 delivered stronger dynamics.  I heard sharper attacks and transients.  Initial impression (after a couple of hours of burn-in) was everything sounding more "liquid" and more engaging.  Some degree of increase in micro details as well.  Smooth but yet detailed and dynamic at the same time (hard to put into words).  Could not properly assess soundstage impact due to headphones setup.

 

- On some of my notorious recordings (mostly Chinese songs) there was still significant sibilance, until the Intona was inserted between the microRendu and SU-1.  Sibilance was noticeably reduced and the total balance became a bit darker, which sounded better with my HD800 cans.

 

There can easily be synergy effects going on, though it sounds to me that the sorted NDK oscillator is outperforming the Crystek.  There's still the second oscillator to replace.  I sometimes wish I have a stock SU-1 to compare with the modded one...

 

 

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Did you check the voltages before replacing the electrolytic with Nichicon LE?

 

Stock are rated 25V and the last time I checked LE's run only up to 6.3V.

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27 minutes ago, Energy said:

Did you check the voltages before replacing the electrolytic with Nichicon LE?

 

Stock are rated 25V and the last time I checked LE's run only up to 6.3V.

Yes.  I checked the voltages across all 5 caps during operation.  3 caps get 5V and the other 2 get 3.3V.

 

No part of SU-1 operates with a voltage higher than 5V, as far as I can tell.  The upstream section with XMOS chip runs on USB bus power, and the downstream section run on 5V from the internal LPS.

 

With the Kitsune kit to support powering the SU-1 with an UpTone LPS-1, I'll be sure to set the LPS-1 to 5V output.  7V is now even more of a no-no with those polymer caps installed.

 

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3 hours ago, scan80269 said:

Yes.  I checked the voltages across all 5 caps during operation.  3 caps get 5V and the other 2 get 3.3V.

 

No part of SU-1 operates with a voltage higher than 5V, as far as I can tell.  The upstream section with XMOS chip runs on USB bus power, and the downstream section run on 5V from the internal LPS.

 

With the Kitsune kit to support powering the SU-1 with an UpTone LPS-1, I'll be sure to set the LPS-1 to 5V output.  7V is now even more of a no-no with those polymer caps installed.

 

 

I figured but wanted to make sure.

 

i plan to replace mine with Nichicon FPCAP, R5 model. Ultra-Low ESR like your LE model at 5 milliohm. Great choice by the way.

 

I noticed you replaced the 24MHz oscillator for the XMOS with a 10ppm for better precision.

 

1. Do you by any chance know what the old one was rated at? All I can see on the top surface is "T240 EINO". I'm guessing it's 30-50ppm standard crystal.

 

2. Is there another one available that's lower than 10ppm?

 

3. Can you possibly link me to the part on Mouser? I don't know the dimension. 

 

I really appreciate it.

 

-------

 

I will post a photo of my upgrades soon with the following:

 

- 5x Nichicon FPCAP (R5) 390uF 6.3V

- UpTone LPS-1 [5V]

- 24MHz Oscillator [10ppm]

- Sparkos Labs SS78XX Regulator [3.3V]

- Canare 4S6 Star Quad Cable

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3 hours ago, Energy said:

 

I figured but wanted to make sure.

 

i plan to replace mine with Nichicon FPCAP, R5 model. Ultra-Low ESR like your LE model at 5 milliohm. Great choice by the way.

 

I noticed you replaced the 24MHz oscillator for the XMOS with a 10ppm for better precision.

 

1. Do you by any chance know what the old one was rated at? All I can see on the top surface is "T240 EINO". I'm guessing it's 30-50ppm standard crystal.

 

2. Is there another one available that's lower than 10ppm?

 

3. Can you possibly link me to the part on Mouser? I don't know the dimension. 

 

I really appreciate it.

 

-------

 

I will post a photo of my upgrades soon with the following:

 

- 5x Nichicon FPCAP (R5) 390uF 6.3V

- UpTone LPS-1 [5V]

- 24MHz Oscillator [10ppm]

- Sparkos Labs SS78XX Regulator [3.3V]

- Canare 4S6 Star Quad Cable

Link to 24MHz oscillator I bought from Mouser:

 

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=ECS-3225S33-240-FN-TRvirtualkey59070000virtualkey520-3225S33-240-FNT

 

Oscillator dimensions are 3.2mm x 2.5mm.

 

I think for audio purposes the close-in phase noise of the oscillator is more important than the frequency stability.  I found an Abracon ASTX11 TCXO with 2.5ppm stability on Mouser, but it is currently out of stock.

 

Also, I don't know how much unit to unit variation in phase noise these oscillators have.  Sometimes there is only a single phase noise figure (e.g. -145dBc/Hz @10KHz offset), and often there is nothing listed at all in the datasheets.  Only models like Crystek CCHD-575 show complete phase noise plots in its datasheet.

 

The performance of the 24MHz oscillator for XMOS working with USB is probably less critical than the 22.5792MHz and 24.576MHz clocks.  After all, the USB audio does not carry audio timing information, and the data coming over USB always gets effectively re-clocked to digital audio timing depending on content sampling frequency.  I replaced that 24MHz oscillator as I was in a "mod happy" mode...

 

Speaking of mods, I'm starting to get the itch to mod my Intona USB isolator with lower noise LDO regulators... :D

 

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Just put the Singxer in my chain, enjoying 12S connection to Matrix X-Sabre Pro. 3 questions I'm hoping existing owners may have thoughts / insight on:

1) My Singxer shipped without a power cable. Got an inexpensive one at Best Buy but wondering if a modest upgrade ($50 - $100 range, nothing too pricey) would be worthwhile.Thoughts / recommendations welcomed.

2) Also, is it prudent to leave the SU-1 on 24 / 7 or better to shut it off when not in use, from a performance and longevity point of view.

3) The Matrix DAC driver does DSD native to 512 to over USB in HQPlayer. The Singxer driver only allows up to DSD256 and requires DoP. With both drivers installed, HQPlayer can only output to the Singxer. I've heard there will be an update to the Singxer XMOS 200 series driver at some point but until then, is there a workaround?

Desktop: HQ Player --> Singxer SU-1 --> Matrix X-Sabre Pro --> McChanson SuperSilver UltimatE

Headphones: Audeze MM-500, Meze Audio Elite, Focal Utopia 2022, Focal Bathys (Wireless)

Portable Gear: Hiby RS6, xDuoo XD05 Bal 2, FiiO BTR7, Creative BT-W5, FiiTii HiFiDots TWS

Nearfield Active Speakers: Audioengine HD3 

Power Conditioning: Furman Elite-15 PFi

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1) yes, any decent power cable will help

2) never turn off the SU-1.  The clocks would take too long to reach equilibrium for my tastes (hours+)

3) Version 2.5 of Sonic Oribiter ($20 microRendu upgrade for new sd card) gives you SU-1 native DSD support.  Furthermore, 2.2 of SU-1 gives you DSD512 (this firmware is only available to Kitsune customers AFAIK).  Some say new Kitusne SU-1s ship with it, but not sure when Tim will send to others.  I reported on my beta version earlier.

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Ted, have you heard from Tim at all yet?  I sent him an email a couple days ago and haven't heard a peep.  I don't understand why he simply doesn't take a few min's and give us an idea of when this release is coming out...even if it's not a few mos away...just let us know please.

Ryzen 7 2700 PC Server, NUC7CJYH w. 4G Apacer RAM as Renderer/LPS 1.2 - IsoRegen/LPS-1/.2 - Singxer SU-1/LPS1.2 - Holo Spring Level 3 DAC - LTA MicroZOTL MZ2 - Modwright KWA 150 Signature Amp - Tidal Audio Piano's.  

.

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Same here. No reply yet from Tim.  He is usually pretty responsive so I am sure he is just tied up doing something.  That said, I agree it would be good just to know the time frame so we can set expectations.

12TB NAS >> i7-6700 Server/Control PC >> i3-5015u NAA >> Singxer SU-1 DDC (modded) >> Holo Spring L3 DAC >> Accustic Arts Power 1 int amp >> Sonus Faber Guaneri Evolution speakers + REL T/5i sub (x2)

 

Other components:

UpTone Audio LPS1.2/IsoRegen, Fiber Switch and FMC, Windows Server 2016 OS, Audiophile Optimizer 3.0, Fidelizer Pro 6, HQ Player, Roonserver, PS Audio P3 AC regenerator, HDPlex 400W ATX & 200W Linear PSU, Light Harmonic Lightspeed Split USB cable, Synergistic Research Tungsten AC power cords, Tara Labs The One speaker cables, Tara Labs The Two Extended with HFX Station IC, Oyaide R1 outlets, Stillpoints Ultra Mini footers, Hi-Fi Tuning fuses, Vicoustic/RealTraps/GIK room treatments

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4 hours ago, ted_b said:

1) yes, any decent power cable will help

 

2) never turn off the SU-1.  The clocks would take too long to reach equilibrium for my tastes (hours+)

 

3) Version 2.2 of SU-1 gives you DSD512 (this firmware is only available to Kitsune customers AFAIK).  Some say new Kitusne SU-1s ship with it, but not sure when Tim will send to others.  I reported on my beta version earlier.

 

1) Thanks...what is better bang  for buck: A moderate-level power cord like Zu Birth versus adding an iPurifier...both are under $75?

 

2) Good to know as the on-off switch on rear is somewhat inaccessible in my setup.

 

3) Newbie disclosure: How do I tell what firmware the SU-1 is running? Is 2.2 available from Tim? I did buy my SU-1 from Kitsune after meeting him and auditioning it at CanJam SoCal earlier this month.

 

Thank you, ted_b.

Desktop: HQ Player --> Singxer SU-1 --> Matrix X-Sabre Pro --> McChanson SuperSilver UltimatE

Headphones: Audeze MM-500, Meze Audio Elite, Focal Utopia 2022, Focal Bathys (Wireless)

Portable Gear: Hiby RS6, xDuoo XD05 Bal 2, FiiO BTR7, Creative BT-W5, FiiTii HiFiDots TWS

Nearfield Active Speakers: Audioengine HD3 

Power Conditioning: Furman Elite-15 PFi

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8 hours ago, scan80269 said:

Link to 24MHz oscillator I bought from Mouser:

 

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=ECS-3225S33-240-FN-TRvirtualkey59070000virtualkey520-3225S33-240-FNT

 

Oscillator dimensions are 3.2mm x 2.5mm.

 

I think for audio purposes the close-in phase noise of the oscillator is more important than the frequency stability.  I found an Abracon ASTX11 TCXO with 2.5ppm stability on Mouser, but it is currently out of stock.

 

Also, I don't know how much unit to unit variation in phase noise these oscillators have.  Sometimes there is only a single phase noise figure (e.g. -145dBc/Hz @10KHz offset), and often there is nothing listed at all in the datasheets.  Only models like Crystek CCHD-575 show complete phase noise plots in its datasheet.

 

The performance of the 24MHz oscillator for XMOS working with USB is probably less critical than the 22.5792MHz and 24.576MHz clocks.  After all, the USB audio does not carry audio timing information, and the data coming over USB always gets effectively re-clocked to digital audio timing depending on content sampling frequency.  I replaced that 24MHz oscillator as I was in a "mod happy" mode...

 

Speaking of mods, I'm starting to get the itch to mod my Intona USB isolator with lower noise LDO regulators... :D

 

 

Thanks for the link as well as being so thorough with your explanations.

 

That link you provided me was the same one I found however they made a typo and listed it as 240Mhz under specifications. So operating supply voltage should be 3.3V? I'm not very familiar with oscillators so being on the upstream side I assumed they were 5V but I stand mistaken.

 

I was also looking into the Abracon ASTX11 TCXO Oscillator (ASTX-H11-24.000MHZ-T) which offers a -135dBc/Hz @1kHz offset. I'm not sure how that would translate in 10kHz offset as they did not provide any graphs for phase noise.

 

Turns out they have a ton available on Digi-Key. I was going to make my parts order on Mouser but will probably switch over now because of this. Want me to order you one so you can save on shipping? I can send you it to you in an envelope. Up to you, I'm not sure how much a difference can be gained when transitioning from 10ppm to 2.5ppm.

 

And I agree with you fully in the importance of frequency and timing domain. In terms of just receiving data signal, it's nice to know a precision oscillator is used. Even when it drifts over time there's only a 1ppm increase or so, so not bad. How did you solder your part off? Seems like I'll have to lean my soldering tip over and touch both contact areas before it could be lifted upward on one side. I've seen some crazy heat gun tech in factory's that can concentrate heat into a single small spot.

 

That's hysterical. You should put it in an aluminum enclosure while you're at it lols.

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1 hour ago, Energy said:

 

Thanks for the link as well as being so thorough with your explanations.

 

That link you provided me was the same one I found however they made a typo and listed it as 240Mhz under specifications. So operating supply voltage should be 3.3V? I'm not very familiar with oscillators so being on the upstream side I assumed they were 5V but I stand mistaken.

 

I was also looking into the Abracon ASTX11 TCXO Oscillator (ASTX-H11-24.000MHZ-T) which offers a -135dBc/Hz @1kHz offset. I'm not sure how that would translate in 10kHz offset as they did not provide any graphs for phase noise.

 

Turns out they have a ton available on Digi-Key. I was going to make my parts order on Mouser but will probably switch over now because of this. Want me to order you one so you can save on shipping? I can send you it to you in an envelope. Up to you, I'm not sure how much a difference can be gained when transitioning from 10ppm to 2.5ppm.

 

And I agree with you fully in the importance of frequency and timing domain. In terms of just receiving data signal, it's nice to know a precision oscillator is used. Even when it drifts over time there's only a 1ppm increase or so, so not bad. How did you solder your part off? Seems like I'll have to lean my soldering tip over and touch both contact areas before it could be lifted upward on one side. I've seen some crazy heat gun tech in factory's that can concentrate heat into a single small spot.

 

That's hysterical. You should put it in an aluminum enclosure while you're at it lols.

Yes, that oscillator is a 3.3V part.  The incoming USB Vbus 5V is regulated down to 3.3V to power the XMOS chip, oscillator, etc.

 

I use Metcal Talon hot tweezers to remove those oscillators.  Specifically TATC-602.  All 4 pads of the part are heated together and the part usually comes off the board within 5 seconds.  The heat gun approach can work if you know what you are doing.  I find the hot tweezers easy to use and they help minimize heating of surrounding components.

 

I also found the Abracon ASTX-11 TCXO this morning, but since I already replaced that oscillator once I'm not too inclined to try something else.  The circuit board can only take so much de-soldering and soldering punishment before giving out.  Perhaps I should think this over some more.

 

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3 hours ago, LoryWiv said:

 

1) Thanks...what is better bang  for buck: A moderate-level power cord like Zu Birth versus adding an iPurifier...both are under $75?

 

2) Good to know as the on-off switch on rear is somewhat inaccessible in my setup.

 

3) Newbie disclosure: How do I tell what firmware the SU-1 is running? Is 2.2 available from Tim? I did buy my SU-1 from Kitsune after meeting him and auditioning it at CanJam SoCal earlier this month.

 

Thank you, ted_b.

1)  try either.  There are many good low end power cords.

3)  There is a pdf included with the driver download on the Kitsune site.  It shows how to connect your SU-1 and check/update firmware via your pc.

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