Jump to content
Computer Audiophile
Superdad

UltraCap™ LPS-1 Operation and Pre-purchase thread

Rate this topic

Recommended Posts

Strojo   
by a quick look at its datasheet (link on that very webpage ;) ) I see it takes 5v DC from an external PS so, so far... it might work

issue is I couldn't find a single word about its A(mperes) requirement (only mention is 0.5W *in standby*) so... it might not

 

:P

 

Looked at the included adapter...it said output was 5v 4000ma 20w. I'm guessing the answer is no.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pl_svn   
Looked at the included adapter...it said output was 5v 4000ma 20w. I'm guessing the answer is no.

 

hard to tell as, often, PSs are rated for (much) higher power than what the device actually needs

try contacting NAD ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
gsquared   

I ordered a second LPS-1 to use with a TP-Link MC220L FMC. Before ordering, I confirmed that the FMC takes a 5V/1A from an online manual or spec sheet. But when I pulled the TP-Link power adapter, I see it is actually a 9V/600mA. So apparently the online PDF document was incorrect.

 

Is anyone using the LPS-1 with the MC200L?

 

Alex, would be any harm running the FMC with the LPS-1 at 7V instead of the 9V?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Superdad   
I ordered a second LPS-1 to use with a TP-Link MC220L FMC. Before ordering, I confirmed that the FMC takes a 5V/1A from an online manual or spec sheet. But when I pulled the TP-Link power adapter, I see it is actually a 9V/600mA. So apparently the online PDF document was incorrect.

 

Is anyone using the LPS-1 with the MC200L?

 

Alex, would be any harm running the FMC with the LPS-1 at 7V instead of the 9V?

 

It should be fine. 9V/600mA is 5.4 watts; 5V/1A is 5 watts; LPS-1 7V/1A is 7 watts. The TP-Link will be stepping down the 9V to 3.3, 1.2V, etc. internally. They probably switched to the 9V/600mA unit to save a few pennies. Similar reason you see laptops running off 18V adapters--and less current (externally anyway) at higher voltages.

 

Oh, and thanks again for your orders!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
gstew   
I ordered a second LPS-1 to use with a TP-Link MC220L FMC. Before ordering, I confirmed that the FMC takes a 5V/1A from an online manual or spec sheet. But when I pulled the TP-Link power adapter, I see it is actually a 9V/600mA. So apparently the online PDF document was incorrect.

 

Is anyone using the LPS-1 with the MC200L?

 

Alex, would be any harm running the FMC with the LPS-1 at 7V instead of the 9V?

 

I had a pair of TP-Link MC200CM and currently have a pair of MC100CM units here. I looked inside both models... they use a 34063 switching step-up/step-down regulator as the main regulator for 3.3v and it should work ok at least anywhere from 5v-9v, specs for the device is 3v-40v!

 

If you want to be absolutely certain, look inside for an 8-pin IC right next to the relatively large inductor. Confirm it is marked as a 34063. I find the best way to see the marking is to take several cellphone pictures at maximum magnification at different angles both with and without flash. 4-6 shots will almost always yield a good picture of the markings.

 

Greg in Mississippi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Superdad   
I find the best way to see the marking is to take several cellphone pictures at maximum magnification at different angles both with and without flash. 4-6 shots will almost always yield a good picture of the markings.

 

Oh Greg, you must get this really great USB "microscope": https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PEZ3GMK

 

John and I each have one and it is fantastic for board shots and super macro stuff.

 

Last month I found a solder bridge on a REGEN hub chip and took this shot for our board house:

 

Photo on 9-20-16 at 11.43 AM.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
gstew   
Oh Greg, you must get this really great USB "microscope": https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PEZ3GMK

 

John and I each have one and it is fantastic for board shots and super macro stuff.

 

Last month I found a solder bridge on a REGEN hub chip and took this shot for our board house:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]30218[/ATTACH]

 

Much nicer shot than my Ebay cheapie USB Scope!

 

In my cart.

 

TIA!

 

Greg in Mississippi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
gsquared   
It should be fine. 9V/600mA is 5.4 watts; 5V/1A is 5 watts; LPS-1 7V/1A is 7 watts. The TP-Link will be stepping down the 9V to 3.3, 1.2V, etc. internally. They probably switched to the 9V/600mA unit to save a few pennies. Similar reason you see laptops running off 18V adapters--and less current (externally anyway) at higher voltages.

 

Oh, and thanks again for your orders!

 

Thanks Alex for the information.

 

I tried the LPS-1 set to 7V and the TP-Link lights went on like normal, but then it shut off after a few minutes. I plugged the original SMPS back in and it's working fine.

 

I'll play around with it more tomorrow and report back.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
gstew   
Thanks Alex for the information.

 

I tried the LPS-1 set to 7V and the TP-Link lights went on like normal, but then it shut off after a few minutes. I plugged the original SMPS back in and it's working fine.

 

I'll play around with it more tomorrow and report back.

 

Hmph... not what I expected.

 

I'll try running my downstream side TP-Link on an LPS-1 AND on a 5v Jameco adapter, just to confirm that what I said was true for at least the model I have here.

 

So sorry it's not working for you, that was a surprise!

 

Greg in Mississippi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
gstew   
Hmph... not what I expected.

 

I'll try running my downstream side TP-Link on an LPS-1 AND on a 5v Jameco adapter, just to confirm that what I said was true for at least the model I have here.

 

So sorry it's not working for you, that was a surprise!

 

Greg in Mississippi

 

I should also say that I AM currently running my downstream side TP-Link on a 5v phone charger battery that itself is being charged with a 5v adapter... working with nary a hiccup for a week or so.

 

Hmmm... your results have me mightily puzzled!

 

Greg in Mississippi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
gsquared   
Hmph... not what I expected.

 

I'll try running my downstream side TP-Link on an LPS-1 AND on a 5v Jameco adapter, just to confirm that what I said was true for at least the model I have here.

 

So sorry it's not working for you, that was a surprise!

 

Greg in Mississippi

 

Good news... it's working now. The DC cable included with the LPS-1 has one end with a 90º angle and the other end straight. The 90º end appears to have a shorter barrel than the other. So I switched the cable so the straight end goes into the FMC and it works!

 

Listening (quietly) now so I don't wake up the family.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
gstew   
Good news... it's working now. The DC cable included with the LPS-1 has one end with a 90º angle and the other end straight. The 90º end appears to have a shorter barrel than the other. So I switched the cable so the straight end goes into the FMC and it works!

 

Listening (quietly) now so I don't wake up the family.

 

Ok, I'm climbing down off the ledge now.

 

Very curious what you have to say about how it sounds once you can wring it out. I have 2 more LPS-1's coming and SOME of my planned configurations could use one powering the FMC at the downstream side. I hadn't planned to do that, but if you find a benefit, I'll sure try that.

 

Greg in Mississippi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Superdad   

Just wanted to add a few more devices to the list of those confirmed by users as working well--and sounding great--with the LPS-1.

 

Over in another thread, this post a user confirms the sMS-200, and someone wrote me about his powering of both the PS Audio LANRover and USB REGEN off a single LPS-1.

 

And Jesus from Sonore wanted me to mention that the little SonicOrbiter SE is of course an easy load for our ultracap supply.

 

Oh, and here is a link Michael Lavorgna's review at AudioStream. Michael bought one at full price, waited in line just like everyone else, and even declined my offer of a modest "industry accommodation discount" that I wanted to give him. What a guy. (But he can't stop me from sending him a nice bottle of something.) :)

 

Have a great weekend all.

 

--Alex C.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jelt2359   
I had a pair of TP-Link MC200CM and currently have a pair of MC100CM units here. I looked inside both models... they use a 34063 switching step-up/step-down regulator as the main regulator for 3.3v and it should work ok at least anywhere from 5v-9v, specs for the device is 3v-40v!

 

If you want to be absolutely certain, look inside for an 8-pin IC right next to the relatively large inductor. Confirm it is marked as a 34063. I find the best way to see the marking is to take several cellphone pictures at maximum magnification at different angles both with and without flash. 4-6 shots will almost always yield a good picture of the markings.

 

Greg in Mississippi

 

Will a single LPS-1 power 2 of these FMC devices? Do you happen to know?

 

Thanks in advance Greg :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
R1200CL   
Will a single LPS-1 power 2 of these FMC devices? Do you happen to know?

 

Thanks in advance Greg :)

 

Why do you want to use LPS-1 on both sides ? I thought the idea was to only do the output or clean side. What is the benefit of input side as well ?

Or maybe you just like to get rid of another smps sending noice back to AC ?

 

Max power consumption is 5,5W

Asuming you like to use 7 VDC, you almost use 0,8 of 1,2A available, so most likely you can't power both.

 

But it you can try, as you will get the red light if overload.

 

http://static.tp-link.com/resources/document/MC200CM_V2_Datasheet.pdf

 

http://www.tp-link.com/en/products/details/cat-4792_MC200CM.html#specifications

 

You may be able to do the MicroRendu in addition if it doesn't power your DAC.

 

You may find less power hungry FMC's if you look for 10/100 versions. You don't need a 1 GB

Edited by R1200CL

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jelt2359   
The MC100CM has a max power consumption of 2,5 W. So here you can power 2, or even 3 :)

10/100Mbps Multi-Mode Media Converter - TP-Link

 

Thanks. That link is what I needed. I have a pair of 200 and a pair of 110, the former to power the rednet rn3, which needs gigabit, and the latter to power the microRendu, which doesn't need gigabit. 5.5 + 1.52 looks to be below 7.5watts, so I'm probably good!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sockpit   

Owners of the LPS-1: HOW WARM DOES YOUR UNIT RUN?

 

I ask because I'm wanting one, but am reluctant to add another very warm item to my listen room. May sound silly, but without AC that room gets warm with all my equipment on in the summer.

 

I plan to use the Meanwell PSU to begin with, but I also own a JS-2 and could use one of its variable rails to power the LPS-1 powering my uRendu. (My DAC is an Exogal Comet.)

 

Does the warmth of the LPS-1 depend on the input voltage? And if so, could I keep the heat down to, say, the lukewarm feeling of my uRendu by selecting the optimal voltage? (SQ is constant, I understand.)

 

I've seen one or two reports of the LPS-1 running very warm, and that's the root of my first-world concern.

 

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
genjamon   

I have two LPS-1's, running two different components at different voltages.

 

With one set to 7V output, I'm powering a microRendu, which in turn is powering a USB-SPDIF converter. This one is on the warmer side of warm, but not hot. Powered by a 9V feed.

 

The other is set to 5V output, powering a TPLink FMC (minimal power requirement). But it's being fed a 12V supply. This one is running at what I would consider somewhat hot temperature. It will soon be on a 9V supply, so will hopefully cool down shortly. But I'm not sure I'd be comfortable with it running this hot forever.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Owners of the LPS-1: HOW WARM DOES YOUR UNIT RUN?

 

I ask because I'm wanting one, but am reluctant to add another very warm item to my listen room. May sound silly, but without AC that room gets warm with all my equipment on in the summer.

 

I plan to use the Meanwell PSU to begin with, but I also own a JS-2 and could use one of its variable rails to power the LPS-1 powering my uRendu. (My DAC is an Exogal Comet.)

 

Does the warmth of the LPS-1 depend on the input voltage? And if so, could I keep the heat down to, say, the lukewarm feeling of my uRendu by selecting the optimal voltage? (SQ is constant, I understand.)

 

I've seen one or two reports of the LPS-1 running very warm, and that's the root of my first-world concern.

 

Thanks!

The power dissipation of the LPS-1 depends almost entirely on the output current only, not the input voltage or the output voltage. At 1A output current it comes out to around 3.8W. Not that much heat.

 

Of course the actual temperature of the case will depend on the ambient temperature, the airflow, orientation etc.

 

Note that the amount of heat going into the room does not depend on the temperature of the case, it is the power dissipated by the electronics, which is worst case less than 4 watts.

 

John S.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
R1200CL   

Mine probably close to max power consumption as powering 4 items, is 48,5 degrees C. The MicroRendu is 35.

 

You can always use a water cooling system from a computer :)

(Which of cause has no effect)

 

Maybe use class D amplifiers ! (Hypex). :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×