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Artifex

Uptone Audio JS-2 Power Supply and Linear Fan Controller Installation (Experience, Pictures, Results)

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Artifex   

Finally, about a month after receiving my JS-2 and MMK from Alex, I was able to be home, have the tools, and the time to do the installation. Here are some of my thoughts...

 

THE GOOD

 

1. I've just turned on the Mac Mini (late 2014 PCIe Flash) plugged into the JS-2 and it does sound really good (I can't quantify the improvement, but it's definitely there)!

 

2. Fantastic service and support from Alex (Superdad). I had a few questions over the past few weeks, initially with the order, and then some clarification questions, all of which Alex responded very quickly to!

 

3. Really nice build quality on the JS-2 (see picture below). I personally would have preferred not to have any text on the front fascia, but no biggie.

 

 

COULD BE IMPROVED

1. I consider myself reasonably "tech comfortable", but even so I have to admit that I put off the installation project more than a couple of times because of the rather scary-looking documentation - granted, probably every step needed is described nicely by Alex in the little booklet, but it's in very fine print (a tad challenging for my nascent presbyopia), and there are no pictures! Not one (well, except for the cover photo)!

 

2. Having said the above, Alex did very kindly send me emails with iFixit links, for the tear-down (first part) of the installation. However, one will still have to read the documentation very carefully to figure out the second part, as it (of course) isn't on iFixit...

 

3. What made it a tad more worrying was that the documentation was obviously prepared some years ago - the very first line says "Install this product only in a 2010, 2011, or 2012 Mac mini". Alex did clarify in an email that it would work fine on my 2014 Mac mini, and did also describe some of the differences between the documentation and what I would have to do for my newer unit, but it did add to my fears (and the complexity)!

 

4. Another problem was that the Torx 6 Security bit, which is required to open the late-2014 Mac mini, is not included in the toolkit that Alex sends out, so I had to purchase it from iFixit separately.

 

5. There is no documentation at all as to how to use the JS-2. At first I didn't worry because, after all, there aren't that many connections! However, for the first few minutes after turning it on my Mac Mini refused to start up, until I figured out that the "sense" cable was loose, and also that I had to have the little switch at the back set to "sense", and that the DC cable had to be connected to the DC-2 output (in hindsight it is obvious, since it is the output closest to the "sense" input)...

 

 

SUMMARY

 

In summary though, I have to say that the actual installation process is very, very easy to do - it just looks difficult to those of us accustomed to having pictures to follow-along to! The resulting sound quality improvement (at least to my "freshman" ears) also sounds pretty good! And again, Alex was fantastic in being very prompt and helpful with his email replies!

 

I've provided some photographs of my installation below, as it may be helpful for others in the future (do note that in the second-last picture the switch/sense is set wrongly - I took that photo while trying to figure out what was wrong).

 

Art

 

 

p.s. As mentioned, for the first (teardown) phase, I used this guide from iFixit:

 

 

Mac Mini 2014 JS-2 MMK Installation (9 of 25).jpg

Mac Mini 2014 JS-2 MMK Installation (8 of 25).jpg

Mac Mini 2014 JS-2 MMK Installation (13 of 25).jpg

Mac Mini 2014 JS-2 MMK Installation (14 of 25).jpg

Mac Mini 2014 JS-2 MMK Installation (16 of 25).jpg

Mac Mini 2014 JS-2 MMK Installation (17 of 25).jpg

Mac Mini 2014 JS-2 MMK Installation (19 of 25).jpg

Mac Mini 2014 JS-2 MMK Installation (22 of 25).jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Superdad   

Hi Art:

 

Thank you for posting those terrific photos of the installation process for our Mac mini DC-conversion/Linear Fan Controller Kit (MMK) in your 2014 Mac mini.

And the JS-2 choke-filtered, dual-output LPS looks right at home between those beautiful amplifiers of yours (what brand are they?).

 

I must offer my deep apologies to everyone for the sad fact that I have still not finished or included a proper Owner's Manual for the JS-2. There really is no acceptable excuse at this point. As you point out, the back panel is pretty self-explanatory, but some guidelines and specifications of maximum current load (5A continuos at any output voltage, 10A peak) really would be helpful. Especially for the optional use of the Kelvin-sense circuit (currently supported only by the MMK).

 

For example, in your photograph of the rear panel with cables hooked up between the JS-2 and Mac mini, your computer would not power on with those settings. The blue switches set the output voltage (5,7,9 or 12V), the Mac mini runs on 12V, and you have it set to 5V.

 

The unique voltage/current Sense circuit of the JS-2 assures full voltage right at the load, even if you run 20 feet of cable, and responds quickly to instantaneous demand. It works only when the supplied SMA/coax cable is connected to both the JS-2 and the device (currently just the MMK, but we hope to have "Sense Cubes" in the future for use with other gear). To then activate it, one must slide the black switch from "Switch Set" to "Sense Set." At that point the JS-2 ignores the output voltage setting of the blue switch for DC2, and the output voltage is determined by a pair of resistors at the load end--in this case the MMK board.

Thus, from your photo you could either set the blue switch to 12V--since the slide switch is presently at "Switch Set"--or you could actually utilize the sense circuit by sliding the black switch towards the SMA jack for "Sense Set."

[Once again I have written a paragraph that belongs in a simple Owner's Manual. I promise this will happen soon.]

 

 

With regards the MMK Installation Guide:

Actually it was written just 7 months ago--right before the first kits shipped, and the 2014 mini had not yet been announced or tested with our kit.

As you and others have pointed out, my detailed written guide could stand to have some photographs. It does key to the proper iFixIt.com Mac mini power supply removal pages which have much better photos than I could possibly provide in a small black & white photocopied booklet. But I know that having photos of steps involving the MMK would be very helpful.

 

I did shoot video footage of the whole procedure (still on my computer waiting to be edited together) and keyed it to the procedure in the MMK Installation Guide. But perhaps it would be better to offer a PDF of the guide with color photos inserted to illustrate key steps--in what really is not a terribly difficult process.

Would a PDF (e-mailed or downloadable when we finally get a proper web site up) be acceptable to everyone?

 

It may seem strange, but a big part of not putting photos in the printed Guide to start (aside from having trouble getting B/W photos of mostly black computer parts to look decent) was that it would at least double the number of printed pages and I already had a tough time fitting the folded booklet into the box the MMK ships in (USPS Flat Rate Box for $23.50 anywhere in the world).

 

In a color, electronic PDF there are of course no restraints on size. So which do you think people would be happier with: a detailed PDF with pictures and text (mostly from the current Guide); or a 20 minute amateur YouTube video of the entire procedure? Right now I only have time for one, and I am hoping everyone prefers the PDF with detailed photos.

 

With regards to installation of the UpTone/Swenson MMK in the 2014 Mac mini:

Of course the Guide will shortly be revised to reflect the slight difference in procedure, but here is a copy of what I sent Art and others who bought the MMK for installation in a 2014 mini (note that I have since received toolkits with the "security" version of the Torx T6 screwdriver so all MMKs will now ship with one):

 

------------------------

The main difference in the installation is the attachment position of the very small intermediate connector board. The 2014 mini does not have a plastic fan shroud over the heat pipes--and that is where the little board attaches, with flat cable straight across, on the 2010/'11/'12 models. So instead you will curve the flat cable on its side (like going around a banked racetrack corner) and attach the board at the front-center area, on top of the hard-drive bracket. The attached picture, taken by a client, will make it easy to see. I think you will be able to do an even neater job, but you will immediately understand where it needs to go. Even if you have the nice PCIe Flash drive new to the 2014 mini, you can just have the cables go over that (maybe the black wires will go under).

 

The only other difference is that the black bottom cover of the 2014 Mac mini gets pried off (try one of the gray or black plastic tools included with the MMK), whereas on older units the black bottom twisted off of key-hole screws. And after you take off the black bottom, there are now 6 screws to remove the round metal cover. These screws are Torx T-6 size--same as earlier models--but it is the "security" type of Torx screw, which has a tiny point in the middle of the hole. The supplier I use for the toolkit provided has been waiting to get the "security" type T6 to include in my kits (there was a West Coast ocean port strike for several months and the tools have been stuck somewhere there). So the T6 screwdriver in the kit I sent you will not work to remove those screws. You should be able to purchase a short T6 security bit at a local store. Let me know if you have trouble with this.

 

Please also refer to the graphic teardown instructions at

---------------------------

 

 

Art, those first 6 photos you posted are excellent shots of some key steps in the installation procedure. May I have your permission to use those in a new guide? They would be especially helpful when illustrating the different mounting position of the connector board for 2014 minis.

 

Thank you for all of your thoughtful input. We hope that you enjoy your new JS-2 and computer with with the world's only Mac mini linear fan controller circuit. I know you just installed it yesterday, so you are sure to discover more as you continue to listen.

Now you need to find something else to power with the DC1 output of the JS-2! It really shines powering a DAC (several people here at CA who have exaSound DACs are about to receive their JS-2), and I just got official word that 12V is fine for an Auralic Aries…

 

Please do not hesitate to contact me with ANY further usage questions--now or in the future. I am proud to be offering quality executions of John Swenson's power product designs, and I will always be standing by to assist our clients.

 

Gratefully yours,

 

Alex Crespi

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Artifex   

Hi Alex!

 

I've now been using the JS-2 all day, and the sound does seem better than before!

 

And the JS-2 choke-filtered, dual-output LPS looks right at home between those beautiful amplifiers of yours (what brand are they?).

They are a pair of Woo Audio WA234 speaker/headphone monoblock SET amplifiers, with 300Bs currently installed in them (the amps allow interchangeability between 300Bs, 45s, and 2A3 tubes. 234 MONO speaker & headphone amplifier

 

For example, in your photograph of the rear panel with cables hooked up between the JS-2 and Mac mini, your computer would not power on with those settings. The blue switches set the output voltage (5,7,9 or 12V), the Mac mini runs on 12V, and you have it set to 5V.

 

Ahah! So that's why the Mini didn't boot up until I plugged in the DC cable into DC-2 and the sense cable.

 

So which do you think people would be happier with: a detailed PDF with pictures and text (mostly from the current Guide); or a 20 minute amateur YouTube video of the entire procedure?

 

Personally, I always find a video more reassuring! Having said that, folks like me who live in China won't be able to access YouTube videos unless we have a VPN service (at least for now - apparently the government is now cracking down on VPNs too...). But an emailed color PDF with step-by-step photos would be good enough for most I think.

 

Art, those first 6 photos you posted are excellent shots of some key steps in the installation procedure. May I have your permission to use those in a new guide? They would be especially helpful when illustrating the different mounting position of the connector board for 2014 minis.

 

Please feel free to use them! Actually, I took photos of every step (I think I have over 20 photos) as a record, in case I had to go back to re-do. I will send them to you via email.

 

Now you need to find something else to power with the DC1 output of the JS-2!

 

I'm looking forward to purchasing the Regen when it's ready!

 

 

Thanks again for a great product!

 

Art

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Quest   

I've had my JS-2 for 2 months now, and only just finished my evaluation.

 

On the technical aspect:

1. I think the JS-2 and MMK is very easy to install, but I agree that for 2014 Mac Mini owners (like myself), that documentation is a bit light and it may be a bit daunting initially to open it up and do the changes yourself. I have my own toolkit so that wasn't an issue.

 

A youtube video will work much better than any instruction manual. I would recommend this approach.

 

2. For 2014 Mac Mini, the ribbon cable for the fan controller doesn't really fit anywhere good, although it is easily affixed to somewhere else. No other major complaints.

 

I'm also waiting for a replacement antenna cable for the Mac Mini, so I can leave the bottom cover off.

 

 

Now onto the sound:

 

On first install, the sound is a lot more stable than on the stock power supply of the Mac Mini (kind of floaty), and has nice depth. These qualities are not very easy to find in power supplies, IMO. Refinement is up a notch and overall vocals have a nice touch to it.

 

However, I felt in terms of dynamics and openness, it was a bit shy.. so I gave it a thorough running in (truth be told, not much difference there), and I made my own power cable to connect to the MMK. The Belden provided is a decent performer, but can be bettered. Dynamics and openness were partially resolved with my custom made cable, and the rest I got after other tuning to my hifi and software.

 

I haven't tested using the sense mode (if that sounds better), or done a comparison with/without using the fan controller.

 

Overall satisfied with the purchase and would recommend it to others.

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Quest   
I guess this means you didn't get one of the more expensive upgraded cables from Alex.

 

I did, his upgraded DC cable is the Belden I'm referring to. I'm not saying it is no good, I'm just saying it can be better (at higher cost), and could be worth looking into.

 

My hifi is a bit on the pricey side so maybe I'm more particular.

 

 

One more thing I forget to mention and maybe Alex can chime in here.. I'm not sure where the contact/solder point inside the JS-2 for the DC outputs are.

 

It'd be useful to know as I had to pretty much turn my DC plug around in the DC socket just to figure out which angle had a better sound. I personally find if the contact/solder points on the plug and output match, generally the sound is better. Just IMO and I know a lot of people can't hear this.

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Superdad   

One more thing I forget to mention and maybe Alex can chime in here.. I'm not sure where the contact/solder point inside the JS-2 for the DC outputs are.

 

It'd be useful to know as I had to pretty much turn my DC plug around in the DC socket just to figure out which angle had a better sound. I personally find if the contact/solder points on the plug and output match, generally the sound is better. Just IMO and I know a lot of people can't hear this.

 

No offense Quest, but I think you are getting into far fringe territory here again. The DC jack we use (http://www.cui.com/product/resource/pdf/pj-080bh.pdf) has 360-degree contact area on the outer ground as the 6 contact leaves are stamped from the shell which is soldered to the board in 5 places. And the center pin is one single piece that goes straight through the back of the connector then bends down to go through the hole in the board (these are really good connectors).

 

With regards to the DC cable, I sold you an extra pair of the same Oyaide plugs I use (I use them because they are the only on the planet that allow me to solder large gauge wire to). The shielded, Belden star-quad cable I use ends up after pairing conductors as a hefty 15awg per leg, and I tie the shield only at the PS end (leftmost when you face the writing on the cable to read L>R). As much as I do believe in sonic differences between audio signal interconnects, speaker cable, and even AC power cords (each for different physical reasons)--and I was deeply involved in the design of cable in my years at Hovland--I really feel that in the case of DC cables from our power supply, the things that matter most are wire gauge and shielding. And even the effects of those are hard to hear.

 

I am sorry, but I do think that the DC cable and turning of the plug fall into the same category of minutia that had you asking and telling me about:

--Removing the double-stick 3M tape that holds the small MMK connector board in place;

--Omitting the washer under the DC jack nut securing the MMK board to the mini to "eliminate resonances";

--Wanting to run long cables to put the MMK outside the mini;

--Removal of many screws inside the computer;

--Wanting to use a "more direct" DC output;

--The sound of different keyboards and mice; or of different iPad models used for remote control of iTunes; and iTunes sounding different in album or list view; folders that tracks are stored in, etc.

 

Please don't get me wrong: I greatly appreciate your purchase of a JS-2 and MMK, and you know I patiently addressed each and every question and idea in each of your many e-mails. But John and I are practical, real world people offering products based on solid engineering, and I would not want the benefits of key design features--such as choke filtering, R-core transformer, floated DC ground, peak and continuos current capability, linear fan control, and proper shielding--to get lost in a side conversation about mysterious tweaks.

 

Thank you and best regards,

--Alex C.

Edited by Superdad

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Superdad   
As there were some requests for more pictures of the installation process, I've just put up an album with a few more, with comments on each photo:

 

Artifex's Album: Uptone Audio LPS and MMK Fan Control Installation in Mac Mini Late 2014

 

 

Thank you for the additional photos Art. By the way, John Swenson saw your system photo with the Woo amps and said it looked really cool!

 

Best,

AJC

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Quest   
No offense Quest, but I think you are getting into far fringe territory here again.

 

No offense taken. You already know I'm aware how my experience/views can come across. :) Thanks for all the patient responses (including the elaboration on the dc plug) and I won't derail your thread, but I did not appreciate you highlighting all my 'questionable queries' just to prove your point to the public. I didn't realise it bothered you that much, sorry about that.

 

I had two visitors 2 days ago that heard various differences from the minutia in my system, and one also said even though he could hear significant differences, he would not share as he wouldn't know how to do so without coming across as crazy.

 

 

Anyway, I hope you realise I wrote a response here mainly to add endorsement for your product, and not for any other purpose. You're right that you have a good product based on good engineering, and that which sounds good, and I'll continue to recommend it to others. We need people like you to push the envelope on that front, and I hope you do well so that you continue to explore other products.

 

Perhaps I shouldn't have added my other comments, but it was done in a good natured manner - incase other people heard something similar to what I did. Not everyone is an engineer and can compare between different LPSUs from that perspective, but I do know everyone in this hobby is pursuing good sound. And we all know 'good sound' is subjective.

 

Thanks and best of luck.

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Superdad   

Please don't get me wrong: I greatly appreciate your purchase of a JS-2 and MMK, and you know I patiently addressed each and every question and idea in each of your many e-mails. But John and I are practical, real world people offering products based on solid engineering, and I would not want the benefits of key design features--such as choke filtering, R-core transformer, floated DC ground, peak and continuos current capability, linear fan control, and proper shielding--to get lost in a side conversation about mysterious tweaks.

 

Thank you and best regards,

--Alex C.

 

Dear Qwest:

I have thought about this all evening (the CA site was down for almost 3 hours just before now) and I wish to sincerely apologize for my above post. I feel it was not only inappropriate of me to portray your experiments as "fringe," but more importantly it was a betrayal of your trust for me to publicly disclose those notions you told me about in private. I always endeavor to conduct my business (and personal) affairs with utmost integrity and respect for others, and shortly after I posted I realized I was failing my own standard.

 

I do not know if you have or will see either of these posts or how they will make you feel. I simply wish to get out ahead of this and let you know that I am sorry. I also want to extend to you the offer that, if you are dissatisfied with your JS-2 or with my conduct, you my return the unit back to us for a full refund of your purchase price.

 

Sincerely,

Alex C.

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Superdad   

Wow Quest, we must really be in sync after all. My above apology was clearly written and posted in the moments before your reply. Yours just barely appeared before mine.

 

And believe me, I've posted about things here on CA for which I was severely ridiculed (solder content, capacitor construction, s/w player differences), so I do know that such never feels good, nor is it appropriate. It is just not my style either, so I'm not really sure what made me behave that way. Clearly not my finest hour.

In any case, I appreciate and thank you for your good nature about it. I live and learn.

Regards,

AJC

Edited by Superdad

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The DC cable.

 

I also used a better AC cable of course.

 

Which AC cable are you getting good results with ?

 

I will be using my soon to be delivered JS-2 to power my Exasound E20, so I want to give this beloved Exasound pup the best sounding electrons possible ;-)

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hifial   

Alex, John S, Edward, and anyone else who is willing to share experiences or informed opinion.

 

Thoughts on any benefit/s to the sound on using a power conditioner with a JS-2 power supply running a DAC and a Mac Mini.

 

And if there are benefit/s which kind of power conditioner?

 

I know there can be sound benefits using some kinds/brands of power conditioners direct to equipment. But because of the design of the JS-2 I am wondering if it negates the use of a PC.

 

Thanks in advance on your thoughts on this.

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Superdad   
Which AC cable are you getting good results with ?

 

 

Thoughts on any benefit/s to the sound on using a power conditioner with a JS-2 power supply running a DAC and a Mac Mini.

 

Happy Sunday Edward and Al:

 

Edward, your JS-2 ships in the morning; Al, yours and Jason's are in the batch I'll be starting later this coming week.

 

With regards to the AC side of things with the JS-2:

It is hard to say. I do use one of my own Hovland Main Line AC power cords with it, and I also have it plugged into a 1:1 isolation transformer (was a little-known Hovland product we named VoltAire). I have two VoltAires, with one used just for my preamp and DAC, and the other for the JS-2 and other things.

 

As worthwhile as the isolation trans is for my preamp and DAC, I can't honestly say that I hear any difference with the JS-2 versus straight into the wall. John's PS design is very effective at keeping the crap out--as well as not putting it back into the line--and since the DC output ground "floats" (not connected to the chassis/AC ground, though the chassis and R-core trans ARE properly grounded), I really think there may not be much if any benefit to tweaks on the AC side of things.

 

Also, the AC power cord that I ship with the JS-2, while not a fancy looking piece, is by no means a throw-away (though it is a bit long at 2 meters). It is a Volex, shielded, 16AWG piece.

 

So while I'd certainly be interested in reports about improvements from a power cord of power conditioning in front of the JS-2, I would not anticipate big gains there--especially if it is powering just the computer. But hey, I could be all wet on this, and I already admitted using upgrades myself. And since both of you are planning to use the JS-2 to power your DACs (I can't wait--you are in for a treat!), that's just the sort of critical audio component that is likely to reveal any and all power optimizations.

 

Just my $0.50. :)

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Happy Sunday Edward and Al:

 

Edward, your JS-2 ships in the morning; Al, yours and Jason's are in the batch I'll be starting later this coming week.

 

 

Great news, I am really looking forward to hooking it up ! From your description it should be relatively agnostic to the AC power cord, but I am sure Geoff has a few fancy power cords to try out. (FYI I have Supra AC cords in Bonn)

 

How is the ETD of the Regen looking, I am excited get the Regen too. The more I have been reading about USB transmission, the more I can see the logic of what you are doing in the Regen

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Superdad   

How is the ETD of the Regen looking, I am excited get the Regen too. The more I have been reading about USB transmission, the more I can see the logic of what you are doing in the Regen

 

The PCBs should be done and at my place by about the 27th of this month. The extruded cases with milled end plates don't ship from Japan until April 3rd.

I should have a small website up just for REGEN orders in the next week or so, and I'll send everyone the link to it the moment we are ready to start taking orders (not until the PCBs are here and tested!). So I expect to be shipping by middle-April.

 

It's pretty exciting for me too since everything we have tried it with responds very favorably. It is very hard to describe, but I think the difference is very much along the lines of what you already experience as the computer, OS, USB cable, and everything else get cleaner--only this is like a pile of those increments in one step. Might take you aback at first. At times (putting it in and out) I have initially thought "this can't be right" because the presentation seemed so different. But then I can't find anything wrong and the music really connects. Then taking it out is a different kind of shock. (And I am not even using the clean USB 5VBUS that the REGEN outputs--my impressions are all just from its impedance-matched generation of a high-integrity USB signal right at the DAC's input).

So it will be really fun for John and me to see what everyone else hears!

 

Ciao,

ALEX

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hifial   
Happy Sunday Edward and Al:

 

Edward, your JS-2 ships in the morning; Al, yours and Jason's are in the batch I'll be starting later this coming week.

 

With regards to the AC side of things with the JS-2:

It is hard to say. I do use one of my own Hovland Main Line AC power cords with it, and I also have it plugged into a 1:1 isolation transformer (was a little-known Hovland product we named VoltAire). I have two VoltAires, with one used just for my preamp and DAC, and the other for the JS-2 and other things.

 

As worthwhile as the isolation trans is for my preamp and DAC, I can't honestly say that I hear any difference with the JS-2 versus straight into the wall. John's PS design is very effective at keeping the crap out--as well as not putting it back into the line--and since the DC output ground "floats" (not connected to the chassis/AC ground, though the chassis and R-core trans ARE properly grounded), I really think there may not be much if any benefit to tweaks on the AC side of things.

 

Also, the AC power cord that I ship with the JS-2, while not a fancy looking piece, is by no means a throw-away (though it is a bit long at 2 meters). It is a Volex, shielded, 16AWG piece.

 

So while I'd certainly be interested in reports about improvements from a power cord of power conditioning in front of the JS-2, I would not anticipate big gains there--especially if it is powering just the computer. But hey, I could be all wet on this, and I already admitted using upgrades myself. And since both of you are planning to use the JS-2 to power your DACs (I can't wait--you are in for a treat!), that's just the sort of critical audio component that is likely to reveal any and all power optimizations.

 

Just my $0.50. :)

 

Thanks Alex for the incite and your experience.

 

Also great to hear that mine and Jason's JS-2 will be started.

I am really looking foreword to having it in my system.

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tne   

Alex

 

Have John and you given any thought to making a 4 outlet version of the JS-2?

I plan to order one of your systems in the next few months (you know the situation already, of course). If one outlet goes to the Mac Mini that only leaves one more. I have a LHL LPS that will power the Xfi (if I decide to keep it), but it still appears that there is a need for a four outlet version of the JS-2. Of course I could buy two JS-2's but I am a cheapskate (plus our daughter is off to college next year and was recently accepted at her first choice, which is listed as the most expensive college in the US).

 

BTW I am really looking forward to meeting John and you (and others) in Berkeley in May, if my schedule has me in the US during this time.

Edited by tne

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bonzo   

Hi, just trying to understand this. If one has a Power Regen or a Power conditioner, is an Uptone JS-2 required in addition to a dac? Or is it either/or?

 

If I need a LPS for the Mac, I understand it's Uptone JS-2, but are people using it for both Mac and Dac?

 

Will it work if used on the Aurender X100 as the X100 has an SMPS?

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hifial   
Hi, just trying to understand this. If one has a Power Regen or a Power conditioner, is an Uptone JS-2 required in addition to a dac? Or is it either/or?

 

If I need a LPS for the Mac, I understand it's Uptone JS-2, but are people using it for both Mac and Dac?

 

Will it work if used on the Aurender X100 as the X100 has an SMPS?

 

I am not entirely sure of your full question but I will answer what I can.

 

The JS-2 has two separate outputs that can each be adjusted for its own voltage.

I plan on using my JS-2 with my Mac Mini and my DAC (e20 MKIII exaSound).

But one can use the JS-2 outputs for whatever they like. Just match the volts to the equipment.

 

The Regen will have its own power supply but one can choose to use one of the outputs of the JS-2 or any other quality power supply as a substitute. So you can use the Regen with its included power supply direct to your DAC.

 

As for a Power Conditioner that is the question. There may or may not be any benefit using one with the JS-2. I guess it may also depend on the Power Conditioner. Over the years I have tried some of the best. Some made a noticeable and worthwhile improvement while others it was hard to hear any difference.

Same with Power Cords.

 

But I do believe, IME & IMHO, that the single most important part of Quality of Sound in Audio is the Quality of the Power, throughout the system.

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3daudio   

I had an Apple dealer install the kit yesterday and supplied him also with a 15V power supply. Today he called me and said that he didn`t dare to try the mac mini with this power supply since it is not a 12V ps.

 

Question: Can I use a 15V power supply or do I need a 12V?

 

Cheers

Chris

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