Sony HAP-Z1ES has arrived

[ljames]

I rip my CD to flac/cue, separate cue sheet. And only copy flac files to Z1ES.

I also tried couple of flac with embedded cue, no luck. So Z1ES will not support cue at least for now.

So the whole CD flac become one album and only one track under the album. This is mostly fine for classics.

[noiseless]

I rip my CD to flac/cue, separate cue sheet. And only copy flac files to Z1ES.

I also tried couple of flac with embedded cue, no luck. So Z1ES will not support cue at least for now.

So the whole CD flac become one album and only one track under the album. This is mostly fine for classics.

 

I understand - thank you! Unfortunately, this is not appropriate for rock/jazz music so I'll need to split the tracks prior importing them in Sony - one more time wasting procedure, I am afraid :-(

[noiseless]

I managed to see the Z1ES yesterday at the local dealer here. Unfortunately, it was not connected yet because they were waiting for the new speakers to arrive there.

The unit looks and feels very good and solid. It's quite heavy for a media player with no mechanical parts inside. Obviously the two transformers under the hood are quite substantial.

Unfortunately, as always with the electronic equipment here if something costs $ XXX USD in the States the price in Europe is the same amount but in Euro which is really unfair!

Even if you take in the account the 20% VAT and 5% import duties there are more than 10% price difference - are we richer around here or what?!?

[astrotoy]

Thanks for all the information. So if I want to send my friend with a Z1ES an external hard drive with a bunch of files (all old vinyl rips that are out of copyright!), I am thinking of an external 4TB HD with a USB output, what format should I use so he can just play it. Thanks, Larry

[peterlim8]

Wav

[peterlim8]

Euro 2000?

[noiseless]

Euro 2000?

 

Yes, that's correct...

[noiseless]

Yes, that's correct...

 

Oh, and in UK it's even £ 1999 GBP !?!

[noiseless]

One another strange thing to me - I noticed that ALL new Sony hi-res products have only 2-pins power inlets.

Even the power amp doesn't have earth/ground power connection - any ideas why? Is it safe?

As a rule of thumb there should be one connection of the audio system to the power supply ground terminal and this connection should happen in the source unit. In the case with Z1ES it's not possible?

How Sony grounds and shields all their metal enclosures and chassis?

[Bob Stern]

One another strange thing to me - I noticed that ALL new Sony hi-res products have only 2-pins power inlets.

Even the power amp doesn't have earth/ground power connection - any ideas why? Is it safe?

As a rule of thumb there should be one connection of the audio system to the power supply ground terminal and this connection should happen in the source unit. In the case with Z1ES it's not possible?

How Sony grounds and shields all their metal enclosures and chassis?

 

From the standpoint of audio quality, it is better for the ground connections to be through the interconnect cables rather than the power cable. The earth ground connection in a power cable is bad because it creates ground loops, but normally it is required for safety purposes if the equipment has a metal enclosure. Does the Sony equipment have a plastic enclosure with no metal exposed anywhere?

[noiseless]

From the standpoint of audio quality, it is better for the ground connections to be through the interconnect cables rather than the power cable. The earth ground connection in a power cable is bad because it creates ground loops, but normally it is required for safety purposes if the equipment has a metal enclosure. Does the Sony equipment have a plastic enclosure with no metal exposed anywhere?

Bob, all the Sony's new line of hi-res audio products are with metal (Aluminum) enclosures.

Ground loops are likely to happen if the signal ground is connected to the power supply ground on more than one points.

If this connection is at the front end unit only a good, clean and low potential power ground can even improve the total sound quality.

I wonder what is the reason behind this floating ground solution the Japanese engineers took?

[peterlim8]

Oh, and in UK it's even £ 1999 GBP !?!

~ Euro 1150 in Japan, before shipping and import tax. 100V

[peterlim8]

...ALL new Sony hi-res products have only 2-pins power inlets...

 

Most of the Japanese products are, their practices.

[peterlim8]

Available from the below link as well: PriceJapan.com

[noiseless]

~ Euro 1150 in Japan, before shipping and import tax. 100V

 

Thank you, Peter, a really good price indeed - so sad it's only 100V though. Any other links to 220V version, please?

Do you have any ideas what this option means: "Churi CSW100W (voltage transformer) (8,800 Yen)"?

[peterlim8]

Thank you, Peter, a really good price indeed - so sad it's only 100V though. Any other links to 220V version, please?

Do you have any ideas what this option means: "Churi CSW100W (voltage transformer) (8,800 Yen)"?

 

Only 100V available. You may want to find out whether can the Sony convert to 230V from 100V or 120V.

 

You can get any voltage transformer in your country, don't have to buy from them.

 

My friend told me this website is the cheapest in Japan, and no handling fee, Netis On-line Shop, email: [email protected]. Provided their ship outside Japan.

 

See : HAP-Z1ES

[noiseless]

Only 100V available. You may want to find out whether can the Sony convert to 230V from 100V or 120V.

 

You can get any voltage transformer in your country, don't have to buy from them.

 

My friend told me this website is the cheapest in Japan, and no handling fee, Netis On-line Shop, email: [email protected]. Provided their ship outside Japan.

 

See : HAP-Z1ES

 

Thanks, but I don't like step-up transformers for audio and changing with original transformers will cost me even more, I think.

This is very unfair with this price differences!

[One and a half]

One another strange thing to me - I noticed that ALL new Sony hi-res products have only 2-pins power inlets.

Even the power amp doesn't have earth/ground power connection - any ideas why? Is it safe?

As a rule of thumb there should be one connection of the audio system to the power supply ground terminal and this connection should happen in the source unit. In the case with Z1ES it's not possible?

How Sony grounds and shields all their metal enclosures and chassis?

 

There are a few ways to make electrical appliances safe. The two pin on the Sony is what's usually designed as a double insulated device, the PSU essentially is what we are referring to. The PSU is being tested and certified, so that the incidence of a dangerous live conductor inside the device cannot possibly touch the metal case.

 

This means that the RCA and XLR outputs of the HAP-ZES1 have an common artificial ground, above the real earth ground compared to a 3pin appliance. There are some leakage paths in the PSU from the AC mains network that can cause some problems, but can be engineered out with some thought, no doubt an ES model would have this in mind.

 

If you connect the player to an amp with a 3pin supply, you "tie" the artificial ground to the amp's ground, and no ground loop is formed, well one you can hear anyway.

[One and a half]

Thank you, Peter, a really good price indeed - so sad it's only 100V though. Any other links to 220V version, please?

Do you have any ideas what this option means: "Churi CSW100W (voltage transformer) (8,800 Yen)"?

 

If you purchase a 220V to 100V 150VA double wound transformer, you can run the HAP-ZE1S quite well in Europe. The transformer needs to be in a metal box with overload protection on the output, circuit breaker to boot. This is not a rare device, so sourcing one won't be an issue.

 

Unless, you decide to remove the AC supply totally and hack the internals for a DIY approach, then you have some more homework to do!

[noiseless]

If you purchase a 220V to 100V 150VA double wound transformer, you can run the HAP-ZE1S quite well in Europe. The transformer needs to be in a metal box with overload protection on the output, circuit breaker to boot. This is not a rare device, so sourcing one won't be an issue.

 

Unless, you decide to remove the AC supply totally and hack the internals for a DIY approach, then you have some more homework to do!

Actually this is not a bad idea - I can find some good quality power conditioner which can (eventually) additionally improve the AC power supply while down-converting it to 100V?

Thanks!

[Pigs on the Wing]

I replaced internal hard drive to 2TB slim Seagate ... Now my old Mytek DSD 128 and Antelope Gold (and mac mini) can be retired.

 

I'm so glad I found your post(s) re: replacing the internal hard drive! I've got the HAP-Z1ES' little brother coming on Friday, the HAP-S1/B 500GB, and I'm hoping to be able to do the same. Right now I'm trying to decide whether I want to go with the 2TB Seagate or a 1TB SSD. Does anyone see any benefit to going with an SSD?

 

Once I've got everything set up it's goodbye to the Mac mini. I'm looking forward to being able to leave Audirvana/iTunes behind, plug my Shure SE846s directly into the HAP-S1, or have it power some nice (to be determined) bookshelf speakers, and just concentrate on the music.

[peterlim8]

Actually this is not a bad idea - I can find some good quality power conditioner which can (eventually) additionally improve the AC power supply while down-converting it to 100V?

Thanks!

 

Write to them and see whether they can make you a 300VA 230V to 100V BPS. Or you may look for someone make one for you in local, no too difficult to build one:

 

Standard Balanced Power Supplies

 

Btw, power conditioner is not recommended.

 

Standard converter: http://www.airlinktransformers.com/japanese_voltage_converters/japan_europe_voltage_converters/

[peterlim8]

I used XLR output therefore I disabled the RCA analogue output of the Hap, and short the L and R grounds internally, sound promising.

 

The flow of music is even better now...

 

Do at your own risk!

[One and a half]

Actually this is not a bad idea - I can find some good quality power conditioner which can (eventually) additionally improve the AC power supply while down-converting it to 100V?

Thanks!

 

I haven't seen a power conditioner that transforms the voltage down or up from nominal input. But there are ways to give you the 100V as well as for the rest of your system.

 

It needs a custom transformer, that inputs 230V to 100V for the Sony player. The other step is to add another winding, 230 to 230V. This is effectively an isolation transformer for the Sony as well as other components. It allows further expansion to add conditioners of your choice and countless other suggestions as to other methods.

 

An isolation transformer can provide a reasonable amount of common mode rejection, without resorting to fancy electronics. It will last you a lifetime, and they are about 99% efficient. The lower the regulation figure will give you improved rejection of line transients. Aim for a value of 2%, be aware the price hikes, since there is more copper.

 

Spec:

Primary : 230V

Secondary 1 : 100V @ 150VA

Secondary 2 : 230V @ Total Watts of your system/0.6 VA

Frequency: 50Hz

Shield between primary and secondary windings

regulation: 2 %

 

You will need a metal enclosure with plugs and sockets to suit. The transformer suppliers can make an enclosure, but will be industrial looking for sure. This is where enthusiasm meets reality and caution needs to be applied since we are dealing with mains voltages. If you have a qualified person to wire the setup, you can add protection, use fancy wire, gold plated outlets, star earthing, all sorts. Limit is only the cost.

[Skeptic]

I'm so glad I found your post(s) re: replacing the internal hard drive! I've got the HAP-Z1ES' little brother coming on Friday, the HAP-S1/B 500GB, and I'm hoping to be able to do the same. Right now I'm trying to decide whether I want to go with the 2TB Seagate or a 1TB SSD. Does anyone see any benefit to going with an SSD?

 

Once I've got everything set up it's goodbye to the Mac mini. I'm looking forward to being able to leave Audirvana/iTunes behind, plug my Shure SE846s directly into the HAP-S1, or have it power some nice (to be determined) bookshelf speakers, and just concentrate on the music.

An SSD would be silent and vibration free, which might be nice in a unit like this which is in your listening room.

 

The HAP-S1 is an interesting product considering that it is essentially the HAP-Z1 and an amplifier together in a smaller box, making it a completely self-contained unit.