HELP! Harman Kardon subwoofer LED flashing

[brlawyer]

I couldn't find a solution for this on HK's website, so I am gonna ask it here: my subwoofer HKTS210SUB/230 (connected to my home theater system and Apple TV) seems to have stopped working although its LED light is now flashing continuously.

 

What does it mean? Do I have a blown fuse perhaps? Thanks very much for your prompt help!

[highDef]

It could be different reasons. How stable is the power in your area? do you have surge protectors?

Have you contacted HK for tech support? it seems like there's not troubleshooting much info for this model.

[brlawyer]

It could be different reasons. How stable is the power in your area? do you have surge protectors?

Have you contacted HK for tech support? it seems like there's not troubleshooting much info for this model.

 

Thanks; let me ask you a different question then: if the fuse is blown, would a LED light still work?

[brlawyer]

Thanks; let me ask you a different question then: if the fuse is blown, would a LED light still work?

 

No one available to help here?

[mav52]

Call HK

[djturbo]

Hi

Were you able to diagnose the amber blinking light on your HKTS 210 Sub. I am facing the same issue and unable to find the cause. I would want to see if it is a fuse issue or some other issue before deciding to give it for repairs to HK.

Your help would be appreciated.

I couldn't find a solution for this on HK's website, so I am gonna ask it here: my subwoofer HKTS210SUB/230 (connected to my home theater system and Apple TV) seems to have stopped working although its LED light is now flashing continuously.

 

What does it mean? Do I have a blown fuse perhaps? Thanks very much for your prompt help!

[brlawyer]

Hi

Were you able to diagnose the amber blinking light on your HKTS 210 Sub. I am facing the same issue and unable to find the cause. I would want to see if it is a fuse issue or some other issue before deciding to give it for repairs to HK.

Your help would be appreciated.

 

The other day, weijore sent me the following message (all credits go to him, of course) - hope this is helpful to you:

 

"You've probably tossed your subwoofer by now, but I have the same problem. But I was able to remove the outer nine screws to remove the box that holds the PCBs. I just used a screw driver to pop the box out. I removed the connections to the LED and woofer, then opened the box by removing the four outermost screws that remained. (There were still a bunch of screws left in the panel that are holding the PCBs and other components so I left those untouched.)

 

Once inside the box I found that there was no fuse. I looked for popped caps but found none.

 

Eventually I found a burnt resistor (R23) in front of the amp. It's a large 1W 100ohm 5% resistor that was discolored and the coating had flaked off. I removed the PCB from the front panel and removed the resistor. I'll be replacing it when I can get a replacement part.

 

I suspect that you may have had a similar problem. Hopefully you've already figured this all out or resolved the problem some other way. Either way, I thought it might be interesting for you to know the solution I found."

[djturbo]

Thanks a ton. I did open the PCB but could not see any burnt res or capacitor. The fuse looked good too.

 

Il try to have a look once again when i get time but for now Iv just bought a new Jamo Sub800 ?

[jacoblanger]

Hi guys,
Stumbled upon this discussion since my sub had the same issue with flashing LED-light.

Also found the burnt resistor as brlawyer, number r23.
I found the schematics for the circuit board and it says 51/1W (51 ohms) and not 100. Can anybody please confirm what resistance?

[Saintsinner]

On 2/16/2018 at 11:29 PM, jacoblanger said:

Hi guys,
Stumbled upon this discussion since my sub had the same issue with flashing LED-light.

Also found the burnt resistor as brlawyer, number r23.
I found the schematics for the circuit board and it says 51/1W (51 ohms) and not 100. Can anybody please confirm what resistance?

Hi Jacob

Did you have any luck with using a 51/1 W resistor? Or any other one. I have a similar issue with my R23. Also from where do you get the resistor. Kindly help. Thank you. 

[DaveHutch]

In my case, the resistor (R23) had melted its solder points and had disconnected itself from the board. Casing had flaked off and there were scorch marks on the rear of the board, but upon measuring it, I found it was still functioning as 51 ohms, as per the schematic.

I read this thread a few weeks ago before I had a multimeter so just to be on the safe side, I ordered both 51ohm and 100ohm resistors from RS Components. Both are 1W.

The 51ohm resistors are quite tiny and I imagine would overheat again so my plan is to solder two of the 100ohm resistors in parallel.

That will give me 50ohm resistance and 2W of power handling, which will hopefully mean they run a bit cooler.

I'll let you know how it goes.

[Old in the game]

The resister R23 use to be very hot, its normal that it looks burn but its no problem. If the LED is flaching try and replace the capacistor C5 220µF/16V and I think it will work

[DaveHutch]

Thanks for the suggestion. I replaced the resistor but the sub fails to power up. No LED so I'm going to ask someone to take a further look at it

[Saintsinner]

I tried replacing the R23 resistor too. It doesnt power up the LED. What I do for temporary use is heat up the PCB using a hair dryer. Tje subwoofer works for a couple of hours and then goes off. Will try out the capacitor idea suggested by old in the game. it looked burnt when I saw it yesterday. Had a hard time finding it on the board. It is one of those 4 black capacitors connected together towards the bottom corner.. let me know if you guys have any luck replacing it. I will order a capacitor today and try out over the weekend maybe. Meanwhile also thinking of ordering a new sub woofer because no fun without bass

[Saintsinner]

Replaced the C5 capacitor with a Similar one. It still doesnt help. the LED flashing continues..

[runesoested]

Hey

yesterday I fixed my 210 sub. 

Found a dark r23. Aread around it clearly brown from heat. The ceramic was flaking off and I found this thread looking for value of r23. 

Mine was a 100 ohm 1w 5%

i replaced it with a 3w instead.

 

Sub still not work so I heated print and it worked. Cooling each condensator in turn it stopped working at c5 on the powerboard 

 

I soldered it out and measured capacity to just 167 micro Farad out of 220. I replaced it with same type. 16v 220uf 105° 

 

Now ir works as it's supposed to again. 

[Damaso]

Today I fixed my sub replacing r23 with a 56 ohm 2w resistor an c5 with 220mf 16v.

Thanks for your help!

[runesoested]

Awesome mate, happy to share

[Alby2008]

On 6/26/2018 at 6:43 PM, Old in the game said:

The resister R23 use to be very hot, its normal that it looks burn but its no problem. If the LED is flaching try and replace the capacistor C5 220µF/16V and I think it will work

This help me thanks C5 changed and it works fine

 

[DrKaktus]

Hi, 

please where is placed capacistor C5 220µF/16V?

Thanks

[aniketkulkarni]

I recently got HKTS 16 from my buddy. Speakers are working but sub LED is flashing and light is dim. I'm calling HK support but I found this repair kit on ebay. I might give this a try. 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HKTS210SUB-230-power-supply-repair-set-HKTS210SUB-HKTS210-Harman-Kardon-sub-R23/264154330593?hash=item3d80d335e1:g:BngAAOSwBsNbbKH8&frcectupt=true

 

 

[forzdaze96]

The 2 located to the right of the copper coil (where all the dark brown is haha) Just replaced these 2 only last night, and sub is working again. 

[Sham]

I had Same issue with HKTS210SUB/230 led was blinking. Nothing found physically wrong so after some time of measuring I found 3 diodes are not showing good value I replaced them it works again (D1,D9,D4) hope this helps 

[Damaso]

Can you please tell me what diodes to buy to replace D1, D9 and D4?

Thanks.