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Need an AMP - what do you suggest?


jwl2

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Rats! I got everything all set up and found out my Adcom GFA-535 does not work, so I need an AMP (not a receiver). My preference is for clean, accurate and tight sound. I mostly use the speakers to play music. I am wondering what makes more sense

 

1. Get another Adcom GFA-535 or similar on eBay

2. Purchase a Emotiva UPA-200 or Mini-X A-100

3. ATI AT602 for $250

4. Something else

 

What do your suggest and why?

 

Also, I am not quite sure if I need a pre-amp. Adcom said I did, but Emotiva said I did not. If you know, please let me know.

 

Here is the equipment I am using (I pasted links to manuals below). This is connected to a computer and it is critical that the sound be controllable by the computer (hence no receiver).

 

Polk Monitor 40 Series II

Polk PSW10

HT Omega eClaro (PC sound card)

If needed, I have a Klipsch Promedia dd 5.1 preamp/decoder

 

Polk Monitor 40s: http://ec1.images-amazon.com/media/i...L000074437.pdf

 

Polk Sub: http://www.polkaudio.com/downloads/m...SW10_12_MN.pdf

 

HT Omega eClaro: http://www.htomega.com/filedown/eclaro.pdf

klipsch dd5.1:

ProMedia DD - 5.1 | Klipsch

http://www.themusichelpers.com/z/248061100000001

Thanks,

J

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Do you know what is wrong with your amp? Did you at least check the fuse(s). You may be able to repair it for much less than buying a new one, and there is nothing inherently wrong with that Adcom if it was serving you well before it broke.

Forrest:

Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA

DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP>

Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz

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I love my Emotiva products, but that Adcom's a great little amp and I don't think you'll improve on it without spending a lot more money. As 4est points out, it might be something simple like a fuse - but a blown fuse is often a symptom rather than a simple nonrecurring event, and the reason for the high current demand has to be found and fixed.

 

Off-warranty repairs on a $300 amp don't make sense to me once they approach half the replacement cost of the device unless the amp is special to you, in perfect shape, and cannot be replaced. But if you're going to buy a pre-owned one on the bay and you've had this one since it was new so you know its history, I'd invest more in repairing the one you have. Make sure it's checked out thoroughly while it's on the bench, to minimize risk of another failure.

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Just for the record, sometimes fuses just blow for simple reasons such as an AC power surge or a momentary burst from a source. I have an OLD Bedini 100/100 that blew a fuse 10 yrs ago idling, and has never blown one since. Often times though the fix is very simple for a reputable local shop to do for $100. Depends upon what is wrong with it. Does it light up? One channel missing or two? Does it make any sound at all? Did you smell anything or see any white or blue smoke? Do you hear a buzzing? Ect... Those are pretty basic amps, and ought to be simple to fix as long as it is not the outputs or transformer.

 

I sort of agree with not dumping money into it, but it depends upon what it will cost to repair vs replace.

Forrest:

Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA

DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP>

Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz

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Why mess around with it? Used purchase may eventually bring more of the same. The Emotiva UPA-200 will likely offer the most value in a new purchase. A benefit will be a more dynamic system with over twice the power. Try it, and if you don't like it, return it within 30 days for a purchase price refund.

13.3" MacBook Air, 4GB RAM, 256GB SSD; iTunes/Bit Perfect; MacBook Air SuperDrive; Western Digital My Book Essential 2TB USB HD; Schiit Bifrost USB DAC; Emotiva USP-1, ERC-1 and two UPA-1s; Pro-Ject Xpression III and AT440MLa; AKAI AT-2600 and Harman Kardon TD4400; Grado SR80i; Magnepan MMG Magnestands; and, Rythmik Audio F12

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If your handy with a voltmeter/ohm meter, makes sense to check simple things as 4est has suggested. Gives me a headache to think of a $100 expenditure to check a fuse, so if your not handy...

 

I love my Emotiva, great value for the dollar. :0)

 

Jim

PC (J River-Jplay) > USB > Mytek 192 - DSD > XLR > Adcom GFP-750 Pre > XLR > Emotiva XPA-5 > Snell C/V's (bi-amped) / Klipsch Sub <100 Hz

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A flashlight and a screwdriver is about all you need to check(see) a fuse- but yes, spending $100 on that would piss me off. Think of it this way, it is broken already, it cannot hurt. Bring the fuse to Radio Shack and they will tell you if it is good or not. Better yet, bring the whole thing to a local electronics school and they will fix it for the parts cost. Buy another and keep the Adcom as a spare or sell it. I dunno, I hate the disposable society paradigm. I build stuff for a living with the intent that it will still exist when I no longer do.

Forrest:

Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA

DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP>

Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz

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Why mess around with it? Used purchase may eventually bring more of the same. The Emotiva UPA-200 will likely offer the most value in a new purchase. A benefit will be a more dynamic system with over twice the power. Try it, and if you don't like it, return it within 30 days for a purchase price refund.

 

Why? Because he asked for suggestions and it is empowering to fix stuff yourself as well as saving time and aggravation. For $.25 fuse it might be fixed. Most things that go wrong are very simple btw.

Forrest:

Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA

DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP>

Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz

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I guess I meant if it turns out to be more than a fuse.

13.3" MacBook Air, 4GB RAM, 256GB SSD; iTunes/Bit Perfect; MacBook Air SuperDrive; Western Digital My Book Essential 2TB USB HD; Schiit Bifrost USB DAC; Emotiva USP-1, ERC-1 and two UPA-1s; Pro-Ject Xpression III and AT440MLa; AKAI AT-2600 and Harman Kardon TD4400; Grado SR80i; Magnepan MMG Magnestands; and, Rythmik Audio F12

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Folks on another forum board are telling me that the AMPs I listed are overkill. Are they?

 

Let me offer my simple, basic guideline for the pursuit of pleasure: there's no such thing as too much horsepower, too many watts, or too good a wine. (The original version also included reference to the opposite gender, but that's no longer acceptable, even though it's oh so true.....) Truth be told, none of us really needs most of what we have - but I strongly urge you to ignore that fact.

 

For me, the real fun's been in learning through experience. You'll never know if you consider something "overkill" unless you try it yourself. As long as you can do so without putting yourself or your family at risk, follow your dreams. Let your own knowledge and experience temper your urges. I've followed that philosophy for 6 decades, and I can't complain.

 

Bottom line - do what feels right to you. Try to get your amp fixed if that's your first inclination, as it may be something simple. But if you're like a lot of us, you've had an occult desire for something new anyway. If that's the case, this may just be the excuse you need. Enjoy!!

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bluesman - that was funny. I am OK buying something nice....if I can use it. I am looking into fixing the Adcom, but I have my doubts about it. Going back to the original question, I really just want to know what AMP folks would recommend.

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I bought the ATI. Figured it this way. It's new and has a 7 year warranty. It has great reviews. It was only $250. I can probably return the Adcom and get my $100 back. The price difference is $150. Maybe I can fix he Adcom AMP for $25, but that assumes I can find someone that will test it for free and all that is wrong are the fuses. If the fuses are symptom, that $150 is small. Some folks mentioned that the AMPs I listed were overkill - they may be right, but I am likely to upgrade in the future, so I am OK with a better AMP. Thank you everyone.

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Thank you Bill!

 

I just looked at some photos online. There is one fuse in back, and four on circuit boards inside that you should be able to see through the heat vents. I'd do yourself a favor and at least check the darn things. Other than that it looks to be a straight forward product with plenty of access and room to work.

Forrest:

Win10 i9 9900KS/GTX1060 HQPlayer4>Win10 NAA

DSD>Pavel's DSC2.6>Bent Audio TAP>

Parasound JC1>"Naked" Quad ESL63/Tannoy PS350B subs<100Hz

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60 W pc is probably not overkill. It might even be underkill

 

Absolutely! More damage is done by underpowered amps than overpowered ones. When you crank it past its limits, it puts out high order distortion products that are hell on speakers (and sound lousy).

 

You can't get a quart out of a pint bottle, but you can always turn down your amp (how's that for a mixed metaphor?).

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