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easypete

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  1. JR - My system is very much in transition. The end system should be Martin Logan CLXs with Descent subs, and mostly Ayre electronics (R series). I'm only a year into this system, using many components from my home theater to get me through. The CLS panels are old. I was told they were fairly new, but they weren't. They had pretty bad response below 70Hz. I knew I needed subs, so the CLSs were stored for a year until I found the Kinergetics. The subs came with a crossover, but it was not working. I was going to get it fixed, but reviews all say that it's very sub par. I am using the Driverack as a stop-gap for a future crossover (Bryston?). While using the Driverack, I figured I'd use the autoEQ. Right now, it's not my weak link. Overall, I'm pretty happy with what I hear. For me, it's a distance race, not a sprint. I know where I want to be, just need patience and a lot of money. I agree with not using the 1/4" / RCA converters. Right now, I'm using some Monster Cable wires that have the proper ends. Still not what I want. I think I'm going to get the Schiit, so I'll gut it out for the next 2 months. So far, I'm having no issues with the Profire 610.
  2. Under music server, select "Disable DSP Options Except Upsampling, Mono and Invert" Turn computer master volume up to 100% Make sure iTunes volume is at 100% It worked for me... hope it helps you out.
  3. I'm just 3 weeks old in the computer-as-a-digital-input-device world. I've learned a lot in the past 3 weeks, but need some advice. I was waiting for the release of the Peachtree Audio DACiT (stuck in customs, shipping early August). In the meantime, I became interested in the Schiit Bifrost. Leaning towards the Bifrost w/ the Toslink input. I've read a few threads on the Profire 610 in some systems. I actually have one (use for recording in my studio). This weekend, I inserted it into my system as a stand-alone DAC. Over the analogue output of the computer, I'm very impressed, but I have some questions: 1. Could this be a permanent solution? This was just sitting on my shelf, I have upgraded the studio to a Profire 2626 (4 inputs weren't enough). 2. What's the best method of connecting the output of the Profire into the my system? Currently, I'm using some 1/4" x RCA converters (probably HOSA) into Audioquest Diamondbacks. I don't like the converters. Are there better converters out there? I didn't see an option from Audioquest for a 1/4" x RCA cable, is this possible? I know that on the Blue Note project, they re-wired a studio w/ Audioquest cable. They had to do this w/ 1/4" terminations. 3. In the threads that I was reading, it seemed that the Profire 610 was not run stand alone, but rather a conversion from the computer to the DAC. Is there a quick explanation for this? 4. The Mac Mini is Firewire 800, the Profire610 is Firewire 600. I'm using a Best Buy (gulp!!!) firewire 800 cable w/ a 800/600 converter on the end of it. For a digital cable upgrade, Audioquest will make a cable for this. The Diamond is out of the question, but is there a big enough difference between the Carbon and the Cinnamon to justify the extra $100? Or, am I wasting money on a cable, if I should replace the Profire w/ the Schiit? 5. Should I give up on the Schiit Bifrost, and wait for funding on a killer DAC (Ayre) while using my Profire as a longer term stop-gap? I know this is a bunch to get through, so I appreciate any input. Thanks, EP
  4. Magnepan 1.7QRs. $2,200. Actually ordered them before I read a review. Already had the 1.6s.
  5. First time I saw an aftermarket power cable for $70, I chuckled. I couldn't figure out who would fall for that. Electricity is electricity is electricity, right? Well, I tried it. It was by PS Audio (can't remember which one) on one of my Citation 7.1 amps in my home theater. This amp ran my mains and rears. I couldn't believe the difference. The bass was much more responsive and everything is much clearer. So I've invested a little bit into the power side and have never regretted a power conditioning/supply purchase. All my amps now have Audioquest NRG-4s. I also use the Richard Gray's 400 Pro. I have 2 connected to my home theater and 2 connected to my 2 channel.
  6. You may be more correct. It felt like my 1.6s break-in was about 40 hours or so. My 1.7s were about the same. I know the 1.7s were incredibly harsh (due to the super tweeters) for the first month. Then, all of a sudden, they were not wearing me out. I went from not being able to listen to 3 songs, to being able to listen for 3 hours very quickly (3-4 days). I felt that was the end of the break-in, but you probably are correct. I've heard more changes in the last couple months in the low-mids. With the 3.7s larger panels, break-in may be much longer. I will keep tabs w/ my local dealer over the next months. They are on my short list.
  7. Nice speakers... just one comment... I've never had good luck with the soundstage with inboard tweeters. Have you tried to move the tweeters to the outside (switch left/right)? EP
  8. I've been on board w/ Maggies since '97. I got a used pair of MMGs at a local used hifi shop for $300. I've since fallen in love with the openness of planar speakers. The day the 1.6s came out, we bought them. We had been auditioning speakers for months before the 1.6s came out. Almost purchased some Martin Logan SL3s, but the 1.6s came out just in time. It took us about 4 hours of audition with the SL3s, but only 2 songs with the 1.6s before we knew they were the speakers for us. We purchased the 1.7s when they were announced without an audition. We've had them for quite a while now (one of the first 50 shipped). They serve as fronts for my home theater (also made for multichannel music). We've auditioned the 3.6s and the 20.1s before. The 3.6s, IMHO, lacked any reasonable bass. The 20.1s hit the spot sonically, but missed the pocket book (for now). I was never impressed by the 3.6s. When they announced the 3.7s, I couldn't wait to listen to them. They say the 3.7s take many hours (over 80) for break-in. Our dealer has had them for over a month now, and they are still not broken in. We listened to them last weekend (for the second time). They are getting better, but without the subs they have sitting next to them, they are lacking something for me, too. Maybe in another couple weeks, the bass response will start to come in to its own. Who knows. So far, I like the 1.7s better. My 2-channel has Martin Logan CLSs paired with Kinergetics SW800s. Without the sub towers, I was going to either put the CLSs into storage or sell them. It was a pain to get them set up properly. We had to toy around with crossover points and curves, SW locations and direction, but now I'm in love. My wife is trying to talk me into ditching the aged CLSs for the 3.7s. I think they would sound great paired w/ the SW800s. I may have to request a home audition for a weekend from my dealer once they break in properly. I don't know if this helps, but I would seriously listen to the 1.7s before you make a decision. My 1.7s are paired with a couple REL Stadium IIIs.
  9. I'm an Engineering Manager and co-founder of a company that make process heaters.
  10. During the work-week: A. 2-3 hours B. 9 hours C. 2 hours During the weekend: A. 2-6 hours B. 0 hours C. 2-4 hours BTW... great book on why this is the case... This is Your Brain on Music, by Daniel Levitin. It's hard wired into us. http://www.amazon.com/This-Your-Brain-Music-Obsession/dp/0452288525/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1309884310&sr=8-1
  11. The noise is constant. It is there after a fresh boot. When I turn on iTunes, it doesn't change. I had loaded the demo of Pure Music (1.8), but didn't think this was the issue, as the noise was there from a fresh boot, and when I had iTunes running without PM. Last night, I was reading the thread about noise in PM 1.8. Even though I thought that the point of the thread was distortion as the signal level reached unity, I figured I try to turn off the DSP Options. The noise floor went way down. Pure Music must embed itsself somehow when booting up. Anyway... Thanks everyone for the help. The noise is very tolerable now. Hope I don't have long to wait before the Peachtree Audio DACiT is released. Thanks, EP.
  12. I've had grounding issues before, and this does sound like one. I unplugged the connection from the headphone jack of the Mac. Noise gone. I plugged in headphones. The noise is still there (in headphones). Would this still be a grounding issue? How would I get rid of it? I could run a ground wire, but where do I connect it on the Mac? Thanks, EP
  13. The 3.5mm connection in question is the headphone jack. If there is another way to get audio out, I would be interested in it to see if it works.
  14. I did a quick search and didn't see a related post. I'm just getting into putting a computer into my system. I normally use either a Denon 5910ci or a Rega P3 for my sources. Over this last weekend, I put in a Mac mini for my music server with a 2TB external hard drive. I don't think I heard noise when I first put it in, but as of last night, I started to hear some serious noise issues. If I'm listening at 85 dB and hit pause, the noise level is about 50 dB (through the speakers). I turned my TV on and off (as it's in close proximity). There is no difference. I unplugged the cable in back (Audioquest Diamondback w/ Audioquest 3.5mm to RCA adapter), and the noise was gone. My system volume on Mac is at 100%. My iTunes volume is at 100%. If I lower either one, the noise floor increases through the speakers (as expected). With system volume at about 75%, the noise floor increased to about 60 dB. I'm sure the solution is to get a DAC. Right now, I'm waiting for the Peachtree Audio iDAC to come out. Until then, is there anything I can do? Thanks, EP
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