kendrab

I haven't heard the Audioquest cable, but used to own a Nordost Blue Heaven cable, and replaced it a couple months ago with a Wireworld Platinum Starlight, and it was definitely an improvement. I agree this cable might work better in one system than another, but I definitely like what it does in my system.

After reading about the various options for music servers, I took the plunge and built my own. I loosely follows the CAPS 2.0 recipe, with an Intel 525 Atom board as its main component. This is the dual core Atom processor, and the motherboard has the one necessary PCI slot so I can eventually add a SotM USB board. I put a 4GB SODIMM in it. I also used an SSD drive as primary drive, with an external WD 1.5 TB hard drive storing my music files. I recycled my power supply from my old system, and admit it is total overkill (an Antec Signature Series 850 W unit). BUT, it is also one of the best power supplies on the market with almost unmeasurable ripple, and with my computer's current workload, the fan never even turns on. If I didn't have this power supply on hand, I would have probably ordered a Silverstone Nightjar 400W PSU, as it is a high quality fanless design. It would run about $140. I put the system into a Silverstone Grandia 04S case, and the finished product looks and works very well. You could build the system without the SotM card for under $500 (without OS). I am running Windows 7 Professional OS in it, and am using J. River Media Center. It definitely sounds better than my previous computer, which was full of high end gaming components. Once I get the SotM USB card, it will run about $950. including the cost of the operating system. The one negative about using an Atom based motherboard is that it only has a VGA graphics output, so you need to find a monitor that works with that type of connection. I had an old LG 15" LCD, which was perfect for this use.

I have a Mdht Labs Havana DAC, and it has been working pretty well for me. I like its basic sound characteristics, but know there are ways to make it better. There is a big thread on improving it at Head-Fi.org. Anyway, I have decided to have the DAC modified by the Parts Connexion people. Essentially, the power supply will be upgraded, for both the digital and analog sections, and key capacitors in the signal path will be also be replaced with close tolerance silver mica capacitors originally made for the Russian military. The output capacitors will also be replaced (looking at using V-Cap TFTF capacitors, but they are pretty pricey). I expect a big improvement in sound quality, but won't know for sure until I get it back and broken in. I will let you know how things go with the final product.

I read UHF Magazine from time to time, and they did a review of the Moon 300D dac. The one thing they particularly noted was the sound quality via USB input was noticably inferior to the other inputs, and did not recommend this dac if using the USB input. With this info in mind, and knowing a good USB to SPDIF convertor helps in almost all cases, I would encourage you to try something like an Audiophellio 2, JKenny Hiface Mk3 or a Stello U3. You will likely get a really good result.

I have run across information in a few places (like UHF magazine for one) that the ideal length for a SPDIF cable is about 1.5 meters. I am not sure if it is true or not, but there was a mention about how it took a bit more than 1 meter length for digital reflections to settle down properly. If this information is true/relevant for SPDIF cables, wouldn't it be equally true for USB cables? I am curious if anyone has run across information about whether there is an "ideal" length for USB cables?

I look at the current state of the computer based audio system, and am reminded of a the emergence of SACD as a music playback source. There were plenty of people who said that the regular CD was dead, and that SACD was the wave of the future. Yet over the last 10 years, technological innovation has allowed us to get more and more music out of the lowly CD. While there is still merit in owning a higher resolution SACD player, the level of music we continue to pull out of the regular 16 bit 44.1 kHz music file is amazing. I believe the same thing will be true of computer audio. Now that we have broken a few people's preconceptions over what computer audio is and isn't capable of, we will likely see more and more people thinking outside the box to give us better software and hardware to explore our music with. I have been pretty amazed at how good music sounds in my system, yet there are many things I can (and eventually will) still do to improve it. By the time I get things closer to what our current technolgy allows, there will be another whole generation of software and hardware to sort through. Perhaps the most confusing thing about computer audio systems for the neophyte is determining what is and isn't needed. There are many roads to audio heaven, but it all starts with the music. That is why forums like this are so important.

I believe power cables do sound different, and that it is worth while spending the money for ones built with higher grade materials and construction techniques. This is equally true for other cables. On the other hand, I know there are big profits to be made by selling the "latest" in cable technolgy for $700+ a pop. I have heard some pretty amazing results with high end Shunyata power cables, but could never justify the cost, as the power cords on the system I listened to were worth as much as my car. My solution was to do a bit of research, and then build my own cables. I used Oyaide Tsunami power cable with their P-004/C-004 ends and have been very happy with the result. It wasn't a cheap process, as each of the 1.5 meter cables cost me $325, but I got quite an improvement in overall sound and saved probably $200 per cable in the process (compared to the Tsunami GPX, which uses the same cable, lesser quality ends, and sells for $475 in a 1 meter length). Similar saving exist if you build your cables with Furutech cable and ends. Given that it is a relatively simple process to assemble a power cable, and takes perhaps 30-40 minutes, I am surprised I don't hear of more audio enthusiasts going this route.

I ordered the Lite Audio DAC-83 last Friday. I am planning on connecting it to my Windows 7 PC with a M2Tech HiFace EVO, which retails for $490 Canadian. It seems to be a well respected interface, and is only a bit more expensive than the JKenny modified HiFace Mk II (about $75 more). It will be a little while before I get the HiFace EVO, but once I do, I will post my impressions.

If there is one thing I am learning, it is that there are a LOT of good DAc's on the market that fit within my budget. I am trying to get an idea of how some of them sound, and that is difficult, as the only locally available DAC I am interested in is the Rega DAC. Being in a smaller community with no real high end audio stores makes it difficult to get a direct listen to the products I am interested in. The comments that the way a DAC is implemented by the manufacturer are very true, and it was not my intent to throw mud at any of the ESS Sabre based DACs when I said "they present a deeper and fuller bass presentation than most other DACs, as well as an upper treble that edges on being a bit bright." I should have said "could be a little bright if mated with components already having that characteristic, and to listen before purchase in system you will use it with." Anyway, this comment is equally true with any audio product, and I was not trying to single out the ESS Sabre DACs as being less worthy. I am just wondering if some of the benefits from them show up in the playback of higher resolution files, which are not my main focus. From the comments I have read here, the following DAC's seem to fit in my budget, and are worthy of consideration: Anedio D1 DAC: USB, galvanically isolated SPDIF 75-ohm BNC, SPDIF 75-ohm RCA, Toslink optical inputs/ESS ES9018 Sabre DAC chip/Special Low Jitter design $1270 USD DIY Audio Cleo Max DAC: Asynch USB input/Burr Brown DAC chip (unknown version)/Isolated precision clock for low jitter/Vacuum tube output stage $1075 USD Lite Audio DAC-83 DAC: AES/EBU,COAXIAL,Optical inputs/Burr Brown 4 x PCM1704K DAC chip/Balanced AES/EBU and single ended RCA outputs/Seperate power supply in own chassis connects via umbilical cord $1250 USD Red Wine Audio Isabellina USB DAC: Galvanically isolated USB direct to I2S, S/PDIF via BNC, Toslink inputs/NOS 16-bit non-oversampling non-upsampling D/A chip/6922 dual-triode vacuum tube output stage/battery powered $1500 USD Rega DAC: Two isolated Coax S/PDIF, two Toslink S/PDIF, Isolated USB input/A pair of parallel-connected Wolfson WM8742 DAC's driven via a buffer stage/Five user selectable digital filters $999 USD These are the DAC's I will do more research on, and will try to find a way to listen to. The Wyred 4 Sound DAC 2 is not on my list because I don't need preamplifier functions. I did still end up with one ESS Sabre based DAC on my short list. I hadn't really thought about the Red Wine Audio Isabellina DAC before, but it appears to be a pretty innovative design. I like the 30 day moneyback guarantee too. Would it have an Asynch USB input? If asynch USB is not included, should it be ordered in the standard configuration, and then used with an asynch USB to S/PDIF adapter? Or is the USB direct to I2S equivalent to asynch USB?Feedback from anyone who has used/heard this DAC would be appreciated. The good news is that I have 5 DAC's that appear worthy on my short list. That is what I wanted from this post, a shortened list of possible DAC's from the many external DACs in the $1000-$2000 range. I removed the Audio-GD DAC 7.1 from the list, because it is going to be a bit beyond my budget.

As I read more about the characteristics of various DAC chips, I see a bit of a pattern where feedback on the ESS Sabre based DAC's is they present a deeper and fuller bass presentation than most other DACs, as well as an upper treble that edges on being a bit bright. When investigating the best DAC chip for Redbook CD usage, it seems many of the more highly regarded DAC's for Redbook files are using some implementation of the Burr-Brown PCM1704 chip, which is viewed as having a more natural sound. The new Rega DAC is using a Wolfson WM8742 DAC chip, and the reviews are claiming it is pretty natural sounding as well. I am interested in the Rega because it has the new Apodizing filter type as one of its five filter options. Anyway, the point to this all is I am leaning away from the purchase of an ESS Sabre based DAC, because it doesn't seem to present quite as naturally with Redbook files, and its possible superiority will most likely only be in the 24 bit 192 kHz range. I am unlikely to be using anything more high rez than 24 bit 96 kHz files in the next few years. If and when playing 24 bit 192 kHz files does become important, I am sure there will be another new generation of DAC's to do them justice. What has been interesting in the discussions here and on another website is that there are at least three asynchronous USB to S/PDIF convertors that are being mentioned with great interest. The first is the Halide Designs Bridge, the second is the Analog Research Technologies Legato, and the third unit is the Audiophilleo 2. They all seem to be similarly priced at $450-$500, so now I will be looking for more feedback about them. As for my DAC choices, I am still pondering, but the Lite Audio DAC-83 DAC with its 4 x PCM1704K D/A chipset and seperate power supply looks very attractive, as it retails for $1250 USD. Add any of the three Asynch USB to S/PDIF convertors and even a Wireworld Starlight USB cable, and I am still under budget. The negative with this unit is there is no possible way for me to listen before purchase. So feedback from anyone having personal experience with this DAC would be VERY welcome. I looked at the specifications for the Red Wine Audio Isabellina DAC, it is is another interesting proposition. It uses a vacuum tube output stage, which would most likely make it sound quite decent, but as my Unison Research Unico integrated amplifier uses NOS Mazda 12AX7 tubes in its preamplifier section, I am wondering if this might be too much of a good thing? That is the same concern I have about trying the DIYaudio Cleo Max DAC...

There are a lot of great DAC's out there. Some use asynchronous USB, some don't even use USB at all. Some oversample, and others again do not. I am in an area where there are no decent stereo shops, so I hope to get a bit of a feedback from readers here so I can make a better choice. I am looking for a way to maximize playback of 16 bit 44.1 kHz files from my PC. This will be the format for the vast majority of my music. I don't have a problem with being able to use a DAC with 24 bit 96 kHz or 24 bit 192 kHz files, but the DAC I choose needs to do 16 bit 44.1 kHz files right firstly and most importantly. The digital feed will be from the USB port on my Windows 7 PC running J.River Media Center 16. To make it realistic for me (and I suspect, a lot of other readers)try to keep the cost of the DAC and its connecting cable to $2000, and recommend a currently available product. I am rather new to the DAC world, and am a bit unclear as to the benefits of the various DAC chipsets, and oversampling versus non-oversampling DACs, so if you can educate me a bit along the way, that would be great. I am currently looking at these DAC/cable combinations (in order of cheapest to most expensive): DIYAudio Cleo Max DAC & Wireworld Silver Starlight USB cable Rega DAC & Halide Bridge Asynch USB to S/PDIF cable Lite Audio DAC-83 DAC & Halide Bridge USB to S/PDIF cable Audio-gd DAC Reference 7.1 Single Input DAC & Wireworld Starlight USB cable What other choices should I look at and why do you recommend them? Note: I had previously posted that I was going to go with an Audiolabs 8200CD, but after further thought, I have decided to go with a dedicated DAC instead.

I believe it would be better to run through an asynchronous USB to SPDIF adapter. From what I have read, this should cut down on jitter. But that is just my option, as I don't own a M-Audio sound card anymore. I did own this card at one time, and thought it was pretty good value for the money. It was much better than anything else on the market when released (at least at that price point).

I think I mentioned I had a theft a while ago. I am in rebuilding mode right now. I am using a new Windows 7 PC with J.River Media Center 15 feeding signal to my amp via Creative Labs X-Fi Titanium HD PCI-E sound card with older Analysis Plus interconnects. I recently purchased a modified Unison Research Unico integrated amplifier (Level 2 mod from Underwood Hi Fi). For now, it is feeding an old pair of Mirage speakers with a cheap run of Monster Cable. These speakers had been retired to garage duty at least ten years ago. I have ordered an Audiolab 8200CD CD Player/DAC (one month wait for Canadian distributor to bring in being quite popular), and also have a set of Magnepan MG 1.7's on order (also a month or more away). I am doing research on cables and interconnects, and will need to upgrade them a little at a time, as I only got $6000 from the insurance company. The equipment I lost was a bit vintage, as audio is a hobby that I can't dabble in too much. I lost a set of Apogee Stage speakers, Jolida JD100A CD player (modified with Stage 1 mod + clock upgrade and cryogenic treated Siemens 5751 Triple Mica vac tube), YBA Integre amplifier, Magnum Dynalabs Etude FM tuner, and XLO Signature cables and interconnects. It cost a fair bit of money back in the day, but not valued too highly by my insurance company. Anyway, I have challenged myself to make the most of my $6000 with the main components and a couple of cables. Over the next three months, I will get the rest of the cables/interconnects/power cords upgraded. BTW, did you ever try to argue with an insurance company about what a set of custom made power cords with top of the line Wattgate connectors is worth? Keep ALL of your receipts...

I have spent a lot of time today reading the various posts about USB cables. From what I can tell, there is a difference between the various brands and models, but that that difference my be hard to detect unless you have a pretty nice setup (which is true for other cables too). Hopefully the rest of my system will be good enough to benefit from a decent cable. I have narrowed things down to these three USB cables: 1) Wireworld Silver Starlight 2) Locus Design Axis 3) Ridge Street Poiema R-V3 Because of where I live it is pretty much impossible to audition anything beforehand. I am now looking for feedback from people who have used/heard/owned one of these cables. I want to thank everyone who has posted on this website regarding USB cables. The wealth of information here gave me a LOT to think about.

Now that I have settled on a DAC, I need to get a decent USB cable to connect to it. I am considering the Locus Design Axis ($459), but is there anything else there that I should look at? I am setting $500 as my limit for this cable, so would appreciate suggestions at or below that price. Keep in mind the Audiolab 8200CD accepts an asyncronous USB input already, so I am not looking for anything that converts from USB to SPDIF. I just want a very good sounding USB cable.