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Deaf Cat

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  1. Yes I found sorbothane feet made a nice difference, took me a while to realise... ...what about other materials as feet? after trying this and that, I settled on brass feet. Let your ears indicate what you like best, and try all sorts ?
  2. Cheers Alex, Interesting result a! I guess the SSD's may be more sensitive to irregularities in supply quality, given your findings! ...? I was coming from the angle of keeping the hdd psu's as separate as possible from the pc psu, to lessen the electrical supply variation on the motherboard,/processor/ethernet etc sounds like your still using the pc psu but regulating it carefully. May be worth a try, and then if I do get to try a SSD all should be better ? Thanks for the figures. I checked the spec lable on the hdd's as they sit outside the case on brass feet, and each uses less than 0.6A so I guess I should be fine, with the 12V only supplying 1A. We shall see, how far I get. Encouraging to know there is a VERY worthwhile improvement to be had... even if I am not in that area at this point in time ? I may start looking for a relay that will be triggered by the hdd supply to switch on and off the linear psu's as the machine is generally asleep and gets woken once I press play, don't want the linear's or hdd running 24/7. Your input is much appreciated. Cheers
  3. errm not sure what psu my dac has, I am not going to touch that as it is a modified TAG, far to valuable for me to tinker with that! ? Just found the spec sheet, the psus I have are actually a triple output psu, + 5V 6A +12V 1A -12V 1A So I am guessing I could use one psu for the +5V and +12V on one hdd and the other psu for the other hdd Should take some fluctuation out of the mother board supplies and smooth the hdd operation...?? hmmm
  4. Hi, Just wondering... I have two linear psu's each gives out either 5Vdc at 2A or 12Vdc at 0.5A, possibly both supplying amps on both V outs, I am not sure.. I have an old Pentium D (I think), it is running win10 and slimserver with one hdd with the OS and another hdd with FLAC music. From what I am reading, the 12V supply to the hdd's does the motor, however my linear psu's only output 0.5A and I am thinking to spin the drives I would be needing more like 0.8A. This is when I wondered, would it be worth powering the hdd's with the dedicated linear 5V 2A, as I understand the 5V supply to hdd's only needs to be around 0.5A, as it is the electronics part and not the hdd motor...? I guess it might help with audio just a bit..? Audio out put is through ethernet cable so no usb is used apart from keyboard and mouse. Maybe I shall save the psu's and use them for the router and ethernet switch once I move house... hmmm Thanks for any thoughts! Cheers ?
  5. I am playing with DRC, I find it so involved even with mic measurements graphs etc, manual correction is tricky, just to get the graph looking right. Look right! As opposed to sound right ;-) I cant say I was that impressed after a day and a half of tinkering trying to get the graphs as flat as possible, not that impressed with the result. Hence, tinkered then with the EQ to what I liked the sound of... Tuning with ears and cables seems sooo much easier to me ;-) I guess an auto DRC would be easy but possibly expensive... and take the fun...frustration...reward.. out of the process.... I think perseverance is rewarded, however, after another day or so fiddling with PEQ's etc the graph was looking pretty good, sounded bit better than the first attempt, but still not that impressed... Until I had a play with digitally shifting the Tweeter back in space by 23mm, then I got the impression it may be worth playing more ;-) Driver delay could be tuned with cables I guess, some may be a little long though.... :-) Nice to have the choice to play with cables and DRC which ever one prefers to spend ones money on :-) Or both :-D Have not attempted the Phase sorting out yet, I think my steep XO slope may have screwed any idea of me sorting phase out, not easy beginner trying to understand all this tech stuff...
  6. Guess, if it has it, you have done the room calibration set up? Can make a nice difference.
  7. Keeping it simple Ha! ;-) I would say your in "between flavor" guess would be right :-) IMO I would say it would depend upon how strong a flavor the DAC has, compared to the Marantz. Some mixes of avr and dac will no doubt be unlikable and some may well be sublime, that will depend upon your ears and how much testing of different boxes you feel like doing.... Also, IME different dacs shine with different styles/types of music, yes that blew my mind! as I listen to a wide variety of music. Three £2k dacs on test and each was best at a different style of music.....Whaaaat!, so I stuck with my old pre/dac to keep things simple, and looked else where for improvements. Fun yes, Fab if you can keep it simple! I have no idea how..?? I don't know if you have played about by bi-amping your fronts, this can make for a nice improvement, or then again test run different power amps, a nice amount of power can have a nice affect! So long as your source is decent enough to shine through. So many options... simple is cool but trying to keep it simple I find tricky.
  8. I don't know how your CM1's compare to the CDM 1NT's, but I used run my 1NT's with a Rega Exon for each speaker, this improved a bit when I added a Maia for the Tweeters. I have since swapped to Totem. However, I had a Australian Monitor 4ch power amp in my hands for about an hour the other week, so hooked it up to the CDM 1NTs bridged, so 400W/ch and boy oh boy what a difference in the 1NT's they came alive! Bass depth dropped and kicked, it has always been at the back of my mind that a repair guy told me the 1NT's sing with loads of power, and yes he is right. Just wondering if your CM1's also have a rep for needing plentiful power... it made a huge difference, almost like a different speaker here. Just a thought. And yes one day will have another play with a silly amount of power and the B&W's :-D
  9. Yes its windows, apparently if one disables auto update this window pops up at a later date just to have another go at persuading you, you should/must have updates... found: Remove Updates are Available Popup from Windows 10 - Error Fixer But registry alterations worry me a little as my pc skills are not brill ;-) Thanks for the link I shall have a read through :-)
  10. Hiya, sorry maybe a little OT... I have disabled the windows update service, but now get a little window popping up in the middle of the screen locking all other key strokes or mouse movements, saying: "Updates are available Required updated need to be downloaded [Get updates]" Do you know of a way to stop this window popping up? Many Thanks DC
  11. :-D I keep an eye out for any 2nd hand ones now but they are still so so expensive :-0 ( budget priority now is house wife kids ;-) )
  12. I don't know if its worth you having a play with mains cables if the brightness you require is slightly more than what you have? I found 2.5mm twin and earth cable to be rather bright, as well as some of the Nordost cabling. I bought a solid core silver cable (without even thinking of a demo as it was highly recommended) and found this to be way way way too smooth (not bright at all) what ever I used it on in the audio chain.... it has been in the cupboard for years! until my tweeter amp required repair, slotted in a temp replacement amp, way way way to bright! after a week or so not playing music as it was tooooo bright, I remembered the solid core silver cable, put this in and all is almost back to normal.. IMO they make a difference... 2.5mm twin and earth is pretty cheap to try out ;-)
  13. IME, happened more then once, when changing cables and op amps, one Interconnect I used took around 1000hrs ... Initially the cable sounded good, but not as good as the settled in, burnt in, demo cable, I was advised to wait and continue with the burn in hours. Next the sound became very top end happy a little scritchy bass vanished, after a while the top end softened considerably to vague and muffled, and bass bloomed to big and flabby, not what I was after, the bass slowly became deeper and tighter, the treble became clear and smooth and yes it did end up so much better than when first plugged in and it did go through some unbelievable changes.. I don't understand why or how but it was interesting hearing the differences through burn in.... (IME ;-) )
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