A_Hodge

Thanks guys, thats pretty much everything cleared up!, one last question, is there a preferred type of speaker wire for a sub?

Line level is the red and white RCA correct? and Hi Level is the speaker wire? Currently i have banana plugs, i will try use some spades as well. So i will have: negative left -left speaker negative negative left -Left negative on sub woofer positive left-left speaker positive positive left-Left positive on sub woofer negative right-Right speaker negative negative right-right negative on sub woofer positive right-Right speaker positive positive right-Right positive on sub woofer So i dont have to worry that the sub will be drawing power from the amp?

Hi thanks for the information. So just to clarify I would run speaker wire direct from AMP > Speakers and AMP > Subwoofer, by use of the binding posts. or is it better to run AMP > Subwoofer Hi level in/ Hi level out > Speakers. So to use the sub crossover. I am concerned that by using the high level input my amp will not be powerful enough, or will the sub still be self powered.

Yes i would idearly like to get the full bandwidth to my speakers as they are kef 104ab's. i would like to get a more subtle bass when listening to music, and more "boomy" bass when playing games. For music i use a DAC to AMP for games i use XFI > 3.5mm jack to RCA > AMP How would i go about setting the speaker wire from the speaker to the sub?

Hello, I have recently enquired a Kef PSW2000, which has these inputs: http://imgs.segundamano.es/images/483/48399755516.jpg and i have a Pioneer a-400, which does not have a subwoofer pre-out. I have never connected up a sub woofer before, so the help is appreciated. I understand that the easiest way would be to run speaker wire from my amp to the sub woofer and connect to the speaker wire terminals. Is it best then to have wires from the sub to the speakers, or to run the speakers in parallel. But i have read that by doing this the sub woofer will be drawing power from the amplifier. Obviously i would rather the subwoofer power itself. What options do i have here? Thanks Another Question, is it possible to connect both hi and low level inputs?

+1 on the Logitech Z-2300, they are pretty good. I got them for when i went to university in my first year when i was in dorms, if budget is an issue i would recommend them. They go loud really loud. We now connect them to a set of Dj Decks, and use them for house parties, never goes past half volume. They obviously aren't as good, as a proper separate set up. But if your looking for something for a dorm i would recommend them after having them in mine.

Has anyone had any experience with the "D-Link DNS-320 ShareCenter Pulse" It looks like a good budget NAS. I am looking in to getting a nas myself.

Good info, forgot to add that. However i tryed the patch, it allowed 2.0 to work but not 2.1. Worth a try though, its good to follow that site and check for updates.

The lastest remote app, doesnt seem to be able to see the library properly, any before 2.1 works fine with foo_remote. You can revert back to an older version if you are jailbroken.

Thanks for your comments all: I WILL NOT be playing around with plugs, so thanks for the warnings. I may try to cut out the USB ground, also i might try a powered USB hub. Thanks

Thanks for the reply, Im using a Pro-ject DAC box from the pc, straight in the amp, a Pioneer a-400, to some old kef 104ab's. Not an expensive system at all i am a student budget is an issue for me. Im not sure if any of it has balances outputs. Hi wgscott Thanks for the input, that is why i posted, i understand it is a bad idea that is why i wanted input from you guys on this forum as it seems a sensible place. From what you are both saying i better start looking at a new DAC.

http://www.shuttle.eu/products/ultra-small/xs35-703/overview/ This with a SSD would be silent, also you can get the barebone pretty cheap. Worth a look.

Hello, Please forgive me if this has already been covered, i have searched this forum and the internet only to find mixed opinions on this. I believe i have a ground loop issue with my set up, i get a horrible hum from my amp if it is connected to my desktop. USB to the DAC. Having both amp and the computer on the same power splitter. Currently solving this i am using a laptop unplugged, and the amp powered from a seperate wall socket. Although this is a solution it is impractical as i would like to be able to sit at my desktop and play music, rather than have to go to my laptop and change the music. I have read in to a few solutions to this, 1 being getting one of these : http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=33172 people have said it solves the problem, however after spending money on quality interconnects, i would rather not have something cheap polute the sound. Others suggest using a "cheater" plug, or floating the ground. I have read this can be unsafe. So the question i am asking what is the best way for me to deal with this, if it is to use the cheater plug, what do i use it on? the amp or the pc? If it is the pc is there a way i can remove the gound from a cheap kettle plug. Also where in the UK can i purchase a cheater plug. Many thanks Alex Edit* I have found that if i plug in my monitors to the plug splitter this also creates a hum, even with the computer off.

Thanks for the advice, ill do that before committing any money.

Hi, sorry if intruding on the post, but i have had a read through and its caught my interest. I am Very new to using a DAC, im having problems with static coming from my speakers, at first i thought it may be RF interference, after spending a day of moving things around with no luck eventually i found the problem to be the USB cable. With it unplugged i can max the volume with minimal static, however soon as i plug it in even if nothing is playing i get loads of static which gets louder as i turn the volume up. Some times it will make a loud "POP", other times if im playing a track, the music can be heard even if the volume it turned to 0, but only sometimes. I currently only have the cheap cable the DAC came with i tryed another cheap one that was with my printer that had a ferrite, but no difference. Do you think it is the cable, and purchasing a higher end one will solve my problem. Thanks