sawdin

Died? How? I hope you were able to return it. Just looked at the DF page at audioquest but I did not find any specs. The HD650's have a nominal impedance of 300 ohm. Here's a nice blog post by NwAvGuy (i.e., the guy who designed the ODAC) on Headphones and impedance, and here's one on Dacs and Amps.

Just received my iDAC today. Fred Crane of Stereodesk was nice enough to send me an iCAN to check out. Well, not sure how nice that was, as my guess is that I'll end up buying it as well. Here are a few pics. I won't be able to really listen to these units for a few days, but I'll give my impressions (FWIW, as the iDAC will be my first outboard DAC) asap. As noted on the iUSB thread, the packaging is nice and the units look very nice.

Check out the new iFi Micro iDAC. Not many reviews yet as it is so new, but I read one in which the reviewer claims it sounded better than the Dragonfly (if I find the review again, I'll provide a link). iFi Micro is the recently set-up 'more affordable consumer division' of AMR and uses 'trickle down' technology from AMR. I'm going to purchase one ($299), but I will not be able to compare it a DF. Free shipping from Stereodesk and if you don't like it, you can send it back. Please note that I am not claiming it is "better" than any other DAC mentioned in this thread; I decided to purchase b/d I like the size, technology, specs and the reviews that I've read are good, though most reviews are for the iUSB (long thread on this forum). The 'review' mentioning the DF was on the iFi Audio facebook page. FWIW, here it is:

As noted above, Emotiva has an attractive price. The Parasound ZDac ($475) is another option that is priced well below the NuWave: http://http://www.parasound.com/ParasoundZ/zdac.php http://http://www.avguide.com/article/parasound-debuts-zdac

I contacted iFi Micro via email on Saturday afternoon and received a reply back on Sunday. Very prompt, to say the least. FWIW, herewith were my questions and the replies. 1. I have a Perreaux SXH1 headphone amp (which may end up being replaced with the iCAN). Can I feed the Perreaux with the iDAC? If yes: a. How should I do this in terms of adjusting volume? Would I set the volume on the iDAC to maximum? 2. Is volume control analog or digital? 3. Where can I purchase an iDAC in the US? Is it only available from Avatar Acoustics They already added some retailers on the website. It looks like they are using retailers who offer AMR products. This makes sense in that they already have agreements in place with those retailers. I would imagine they will expand the retail list to include quasi-audiophile retailers in order to reach a larger market of potential customers.

Winson, Thanks. I had read most of the reviews/snippets online and on the facebook page, but not all that you listed. Online, there are definitely more reviews of the iUSB than iDAC. Hopefully, some more iDAC reviews will start showing up. It will be interesting to see how it compares to the Dragonfly, which is on the CASH list. Hopefully, some of those who purchased and reviewed the DF will be able to get their hands on an iDAC to do some comparisons. It sounds like iFi and Audioquest have somewhat similar desires/marketing approaches (i.e., bring more affordable high-quality products to the 'masses') which is great for all consumers.

I am looking to purchase a DAC in the under $300 range for following uses: XPS laptop (stream MOG)>DAC>Perreaux SXH1 (headphone amp)>HD650 XPS laptop>DAC (stream MOG)>Denon AVR3806> Revel Concerta F12 speakers Denon DVD 1920>DAC>Perreaux SXH1 (headphone amp)>HD650 As you can see, I do not have high-end or 'audiophile' equipment. I have been looking at the Audioquest Dragonfly, standalone ODAC and Audioengine D1, but now that I've come across the iDAC, I will definitely add that to the list. I will mainly stream music from MOG and play CD's. For my use, here are my concerns/thoughts: Dragonfly ($270 w/Dragontail): Although I am not a 'road warrior' and will use at home, I'm leery about the durability. If I purchased, I would purchase the Dragontail and velcro the bottom of the Dragonfly and attach the DF to something stable and mobile for use next to my listening/reading chair and attach to shelve of audio system when using AVR. I know that it has received great reviews and is on the CASH list. I like that it uses analog volume control. 24/96 is probably fine for me. Odac ($159 w/RCA's): Love the price and it also receives good reviews. For me, what is most important is how something sounds to me, not whether you can check off all of the 'required' or 'newest' tech options. Thus, I'm not as concerned as some that NwAvGuy uses a 'minimalist' approach. If the Odac does not have a trial period (I need to check w/ various retailers), I will not be able A/B the DF and Odac. Has anyone compared the DF, Odac and/or Audioengine D1? Is the volume control analog? Audioengine D1 ($169): I believe most who have done comparisons between DF and D1, prefer the DF. However, the D1 accepts an optical input, thus I could run my Denon DV1920 through the D1 either to my headphone amp or AVR. However, as I will stream music from MOG quite a bit, I'll be giving up sound quality if the D1 is not as good as the others. They do have a 30 day trial, though. iDAC ($299): Looks very intriguing, but as it is so new, there are very few reviews and I have not come across any comparisons. Though I may not need or use 24/192 that much, it is nice having that capability. Like the DF, volume control is analog. Another potential consideration is that I will probably pick up the iUSB sometime in the future, and maybe upgrade my amp (iCAN???) and assume they will all work well together. I have a hunch that the iDAC will be just as good, if not better than the DF, and hope that there is a trial period. Any and all thoughts, suggestions and tips will be appreciated. TIA, Dino

Hook, Thanks for the informative reply. FWIW, here is a reply that I received on the JRiver board to an unrelated question (though the reply is directly related to the topic at hand). Obviously, this info doesn't directly relate to your situation as you have built your own CAPS: I build a complete fanless music server, computer, DAC, windows, remote and all for $500 using the Zotac Atom based main board. This very small pc however still contains a 3.5" hard drive and 5.25" DVDRW (for ripping and burning). I have a stereo cabinet with my audio Refinement system and the HTPC plus my totem speakers and PSB sub woofer. I have the computer and DAC in the cabinet, integrated with the stereo system like any other component. Next to the computer is the Musiland DAC. I have an interconnect cable run from the analogue output of the Musiland Monitor 02 US into the AUX input of my integrated amp. I am using the Analogue outputs, not the digital outputs of the DAC. I upgraded my home theater set up with a 52" Sony LCD TV and retired my old 46" plasma TV into my "music room". I run the DVI video output into the 46" TV, so it is my monitor but I have also use an inexpensive 19" wide screen LCD computer monitor it works just fine but is a little harder for the visually challenged at 15 feet. Wink This set up is Stereo not a surround sound. My goal is high end music server, although I can watch videos. I bought a media center remote and there is a small Ir receiver sitting on top of the computer. I use the remote to turn the computer on and off (suspend and wake up) The System I built: Zotac IONITX Mainboard with Atom 330 Single Core 1.6 Ghz processor 1 GB RAm 650GB Western Digital SATA drive (internal) Sony DVDRW optical drive Windows 7 Home Premium MC 14 Musiland Monitor 02 US Belkin Wireless USB Note: I do not have a keyboard or mouse connected and normally never need one. In the event I do want to do some tweaking on MC14 or windows, I simply connect via UltraVNC (free) which allows me to use my main home computer over the home network to remote control the HTPC. At the time I connect Is see the HTPC video output and my mouse and keyboard are my way to interact. Keep in mind that although I am not using it the mainboard of the computer has an HDMI output should I want to connect for HD 1080P output. I have created an "appliance". The cost was not astronomical and it sounds VERY close to my Audio Refinement CD player (YBA) so I am pleased. In fact the total cost was less than the price of the CD Player in my main system ! I really enjoy it. I can build you one if you like or recommend the parts if you like building computers.

Why not just get a $299 Squeezebox Touch? The DAC is supposedly pretty good (24/96). It has a USB connector, so if one wanted to, they could connect an external HDD directly to the Touch. Alternatively, you could just send the files wirelessly from an external HDD that is connected to the main pc via a wireless router. If one doesn't like the DAC's, just connect an outboard DAC between the Touch and the audio system. Advantages of Squeezebox Touch: 1) Fairly simple. 2) Remote interface/controller. 3) Can use I-Pod or Droid for graphic controller. 4) Inexpensive, thus $ available for additional DAC if needed. 5) Tech support via Logitech and other users. Disadvantage of Squeezebox: 1) Less flexibility in terms of software, though app's are available (e.g., peng). 2) Need to purchase another unit if you want to use in another room (unless you move the unit each time, which would be a pain). However, using a DIY music server, what do you use for the controller if you want to connect to audio systems in another room? 3) Is it 'noisier'? If yes, what introduces the noise as it is fanless. I'm sure I'm missing something, but I've been debating which way to go and my guess is that it is going to be more expensive to build a DIY server, and that does not take into account the time to do the research on how to build it, where to get the parts, software, etc. . Thus, spending less money on a Touch frees up $$ that can be put into an upgraded DAC. So, what am I missing?

Jesus, Thanks for the reply. You are correct, I need to use the analog inputs to the Denon and use the Pure Direct setting. If I want to use the DSP in the Denon, I can feed 24/96. I do like the idea of an integrated amp, but I also like using EQ/DSP settings for many recordings, especially some older jazz recordings. In fact, I tend to fiddle w/ adjustments on most recordings if I'm listening intently as opposed to having something on while I work. Do you know if there are any good software EQ/DSP offerings that can be used before sending a digital signal out from the computer? Thanks again. Dino

John, Thanks for the reply. I believe you are correct, I would need to use the analog inputs and use "Pure Direct". I am with you in terms of enjoying EQ settings/Sound Processing, and I would lose that using the Pure Direct settings. My favorite receiver was a Sony STRD 10115 purchased in 1994. You could select a frequency, select the shape of the curve around that frequency (narrow, normal and wide) and, I believe, the gain. I remember that using the "Church" setting w/ some older Chet Baker CD's was amazing. When I play those CD's on the Denon, I'm disappointed by the results, whether using Pure Direct or the DSP offerings. Yes, the Denon is probably 'cleaner' and more 'audiophile' in terms of not altering the original material, but it sounds FLAT/COMPRESSED w/ a narrow soundstage. I wish there was a sound processing EQ that would get close to what I enjoyed about that old Sony. If there was, couldn't I take a digital signal from my computer and feed it into a processor (but if the DAC in the processor is not very good, that could be a problem) and then feed that into a DAC and then feed that into the integrated amp? If the DAC in the processor was good, you could just feed the signal straight into the integrated amp. What about using EQ/DSP via software being sending the digital signal out from the computer? Thanks for the reply! Dino

Chris, I was a bit confused by the Denon spec sheet listing that it was only capable of digital input at 24/192 if using a Denon Link or 1394, that is why I asked if using the analog outs from a 24/192 DAC into the Denon would possibly get around any compatibility issues. The Denon does have a "Pure Direct" setting: "When this mode is set, all circuits and processes not required for the selected input source (FL tube, video circuit and tone control, as well as digital circuitry and other unnecessary circuits for analog audio inputs) are automatically turned off so the music signals can be reproduced with high sound quality." Thus I believe I should be able to input 24/96 or 24/192 via analog inputs and not have the Denon perform any type of processing as long as I use the Pure Direct mode. Is that correct? Of course, that means if I want to adjust the sound in any manner (e.g., tone, equalizer), I will need to do so via software on my pc before sending it out? Is that correct? Alternatively, I could use a Sound Processor/EQ, but my guess is that the DAC's in those won't be very good (at least not in my budget range). Regarding my asking about a 'digital amp', I should have been more clear in that I meant an amp that would be more 'digital friendly' in terms of accepting digital input. My computer has 1394 and an optical digital output, not a coaxial S/PDIF (due to the integrated sound card). My understanding is that optical connections are not as good as coaxial. Is that correct? I'd like to compare using the DAC's in the Denon to those in a unit such as the Matrix Mini ($335), CyroParts Pop Pulse ($249) or updated MusicStreamer II ($149, but less flexibility in terms of connections). The problem in trying the Matrix mini is that it cannot be returned. Thanks for the help! Dino PS.. Nice site...I'm going to get MC 14 based upon your review. CyroParts Pop Pulse Matrix Mini Music Streamer

I have a Denon AVR 3806 which I bought about 4 years ago, thinking I was going to do a home theatre set-up. I've never set up a HT system, and probably won't in the near future. My focus now is on computer audio. The Denon spec sheet notes that it has true 24-bit/96-kHz Digital Input Capability, but not 24-bit/192-kHz Digital Input Capability unless using a 1394 connector or a 'Denon Link' (which looks like an ethernet cable that can be attached a Denon Source that uses the Denon Link). The 3806 does not have a 1394 input (4806 does) and I do not have a Denon source that uses the Denon Link. What happens if I connect a 24/192 DAC to the 3806? Will it play at all? Will it convert to 24/96 and sound like crap? If I use the analog outs from a DAC, will that by-pass the DAC's in the receiver? If so, will the receiver send out 24/192 to my speakers? Does it make sense to sell the 3806 and purchase something like the 24/192 matrix-mini DAC and an integrated 2-channel amp (focusing on audio) that accepts digital inputs? If so, who makes a decent amp that is designed for digital input under $1,000. My system info is listed below. Thanks...it's been awhile and I haven't kept up to date on digital audio. The specs note that the 3806 has : 24-bit/192-kHz DACs – Burr-Brown PCM-1791 2/8ch Analog-to-Digital Conversion - Bit Depth/Sampling Rate 24-bit/192kHz; BB PCM-1804 Digital Inputs: Coaxial 2 Digital Inputs: Optical 5 Digital Outputs: Optical 2 Complete Specs: Denon 3806 Specs

Which USB DAC is best for my system? Why do you think so? Each DAC is listed below along with a few specs and questions. I have not included the Devilsound DAC ($399) as I do not want to spend that much. I'll probably be using J River Media Center, listening to lots of streaming audio at 256kbps or 192kbps, plus CD's played from my computer's drives and ripped CD's when I get around to ripping them. Have Senn HD 650's + Perreaux Silhouette SXVH1 amp, running Win 7 x64 on new system. TIA for any suggestions and comments, as I'm pretty new to to pc audio world. Musiland Monitor O2 US ($190) "Continuing the superior USB performance of the Musiland Monitor 01 US, the Musiland Monitor 02 provides the same 192K USB capability but with the addition of SPDIF conversion, separate power supply and high/low impedance headphone output." Drivers??? Seems like I've read of numerous issues w/ drivers and compatibility issues concerning Musiland. Pacific Valve & Electric Company Pacific Valve Musiland Monitor 02 US NuForce uDAC ($99) USB native bit rate: 32-48kHz, 16-bit. Has S/PDIF out. Has headphone amp, but I've already got one that should be better. Nuforce.com | Icon uDAC Musicstreamer II ($149 24/96 capability, great reviews, seems user-friendly. No S/PDIF output. Made in USA (all things being equal, I'd rather buy products being made here.) CryoParts HRT Music Streamer+ -------------- * Dell XPS 8100 (i7 860 (2.8GHz), 8 GB ram, running Windows 7 x64), Realtek HD Audio SC w/ Tru Studio PC software (Creative/THX), Swann D1080 Mk II speakers * Senn HD 650, Perreaux Sihoutte SXH1 amp * Denon AVR 3806, Denon DVD 1920, Revel Concerta F12 speakers * Monster HTS 3500 Mk II and various cables.

I have a Perreaux Silhoutte SXH1 heaphone amp that has one set of RCA inputs (L/R) and one set of RCA line outs (L/R). If I feed the line-in on the amp from the RCA line-out of a Musicstreamer USB DAC, will the line-outs on the amp send out an unamplified signal? If that is the case, would the Perreaux amp need to be turned on? The reason I'm asking is that sometimes I may want to use my powered speakers instead of my headphones and I was concerned that connecting my powered speakers to an amp feed would cause problems. If I can use the Perreaux to passively send the signal to my speakers, I won't have to upgrade my soundcard to something like an M-Audio Audiophile 192 or use 'female to 2 males' RCA adapters on both channels of the outs from the musicstreamer DAC. I'm not sure how much degradation I would get using the adapters (and I might not be able to hear it given my ears and equipment), but my preference is to stay away from adapters. Thanks! PS...I have not yet purchased the USB DAC, thus I cannot experiment w/ various connection options. -------------- * Dell XPS 8100 (i7 860 (2.8GHz), 8 GB ram, running Windows 7 x64), Realtek HD Audio SC w/ Tru Studio PC software (Creative/THX), Swann D1080 Mk II speakers * Senn HD 650, Perreaux Sihoutte SXH1 amp * Denon AVR 3806, Denon DVD 1920, Revel Concerta F12 speakers * Monster HTS 3500 Mk II and various cables.