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Niko

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  1. Hi folks, I am looking for a Linear PSU to use with my HDPLEX 400W DC-ATX. The Computer it will power will have a 65W CPU and won't use any dedicated graphic card. 1) How should i choose my PSU ? Volt x Ampere = power requirements ? 2) 65 W for CPU (mobo up to 95W) + 3.3 for RAM (2x 4Gb) +~10 for SDD +~20W for HDD + 20 % margin = 120 W, does that sound realistic ? 2) Should i choose 12 or 19V ? My mobo is 12 W 3) How about the amperage ? 12 V X 10A = 120W ? Does it work that way ? 4) Would having an extra power reserve be benefic to the SQ ? Thanks for enlightening me. Nico
  2. Thanks for the infos. Correct. You convinced me. I will first ask Teradak about the price of a new cable set. If the price is too high, i will then follow your DYI advice.
  3. Well, my voltmeter reads 0.525. But can't select the base voltage, it's done automatically. But the funny thing, is that, on the molex, it reads on one side 12v, and not 1.2v...
  4. I think i found the source of the problem. I'm hesitating to build a sata cable myself, using the end of a regular sata plug and twist (with a little bit of solder around it) its wires together with the Teradak's ones. Do you guys believe that such a DYI could degrade the SQ ?
  5. My previous measurements were wrong, because my multimeter was set to AC... So i started again, and this time i strangely got 0.525V. I then compared it with the working molex connector and this time i got 12V on one side and on the other 0.525V as well... If i would have got 5V instead of 0.525V, i would pretty confident that the problem comes from the sata plug, with seems to be damaged, but i have to admit that those readings confuse me.
  6. both: First at the PSU (outside) and at the cable pin end now, where i got 0.761 PSU on and 1.961 PSU off. Then i turned if off and on again and i got 0.866 this time. Yes i tried to power up another sata drive, which didn't work either. With another PSU, The initial SATA drive works fine and is recognized in the bios, even though, the bios drive boot order got swapped randomly as couple of times recently. But this latter point has probably nothing to do with the PSU.
  7. Hi folks, one (SATA HDD) plug of my Teradak 380W PSU, used to drive my music PC, stopped suddenly working. This already happened once a couple of weeks ago, and by the time i checked the hdd and other components, it was back to life. Unfortunately, it didn't happened this way this time. I opened the case and found no short circuit or burning evidence. Everything seemed to be ok. No overheating either. I checked the DC output pins and their voltage was around 1V for each pin, PSU on and 2,8V PSU off, but plugged. As I have no knowledge at all in electronics, i would have to use the services of a professional and ship the unit within the country or abroad, which could quickly turn out to be expensive. Therefore, i would appreciate if someone could help me troubleshoot this PSU a little bit further, before to proceed. If something would have burnt, i guess this would have happened the first time already, right ? Maybe it's just the cable, but how to know ? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Nico
  8. Great. Thanks for your explanations. It makes me every day a little less ignorant ;). I think that finally you convinced me. It's indeed not worth the hassle and the risk, especially when buying an expensive PSU and other PC components. While we are speaking about DC to DC ATX converters, the HDplex 800W is the best available on the market, nowdays, right ? I would like to know whether the 400w version just as good as the latter, SQ wise ?
  9. Got it, thanks ! So, if i get you guys right, i could i.e. use an SR7 multi rails for the 3 ATX rails plus an external or pcie device, and an SR4 for the CPU, right ? @Nenon, when you mention: What kind of hack do you mean ? Like using adaptors and jumpers, or more like opening the case and soldering ?
  10. Hmm, i'm a bit confused, again. I'm not sure i understood how you got 3 rails for the ATX: 1 for the 24 pins connector 1 for the CPU (that's EPS, right ?). So that doesn't count. So, we still have 2 rails left, assuming no sata drive will be used. One rail per connector will be used, right ? Or it doesn't work that way ? But the DC-ATX convertion by the HDPlex will still generate more noise than using an ATX LPSU for the mobo and EPS connectors. That's where i don't get it why the HDPlex solution would be superior to using a SR7 with 4 rails. In my case, i'm using a single computer, so no need for the PCIe NIC rail. Pardon my ignorance, as i didn't dig the subject until recently. I was too happy with my CD player ;)
  11. Good to know. I might then consider an SR7 with 4 rails, even though i read that the latter is inferior to single rail version, hopping that the difference won't be too much. Lately i've been broswing the massively improve SQ thread quite a lot, and i didn't find much talking about pSUs. This let me wonder how do you guys with top systems power them up. Isn't using ATX LPSU the best option ?
  12. Thanks for your suggestion, Nenon. I'm just wondering whether adding a DC to ATX converter to the SR7 wouldn't cancel the benefits of such a premium PSU, and that i'd be better off S.Q. wise with my initial choice, i.e. an HDD Plex 500W (to come) full linear atx PSU ?
  13. Hi guys, i reopen this thread, as i still haven't decided yet. Meanwhile, i've heard of Paul Hynes produtcts, which look excellent. As i'm quiet a nooby is this fied, escpecially technically, i was wondering weather his SR7 model could be used as a lineat atx psu, or is it a totally different construction ?. Thanks
  14. Thanks for your inputs, guys. I didn't see anybody mentioning JPlayer. I could get any infos, as my post on their forum got ignored and unpublished by the moderators. Does it have any tagging function, and how does it perform sq-wise?
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