17629v2

"I disagree with Dennis's viewpoints as or more often than I agree. I manage to find a way to do it that's respectful of him (and many audiophiles who hold similar opinions) and perhaps even humorous sometimes." I really don't care if Dennis, or anyone else here has a different opinion than I do. Most of the people here do and I still have no problem getting along with them. If you take the time to read some of his posts, you'll see that, in many cases, he enters the conversation with the only intention of giving me a hard time. It doesn't matter what the facts are, he fabricates or ignores where needed. And while were on the topic, have you noticed that we haven't heard a peep from him as we discuss this? He usually has no problem sticking his nose into everyone's business, wanted or not. I wonder why? "This isn't about you. Dennis has been posting here since long before you arrived. You disagree, fine. There is no reason to make it personal." That's a load of crap. I don't owe Dennis anything. He can kiss my ass because he's the one making it personal. He's been posting long before I arrived, and he'll be posting long after I'm gone. "As Chris points out, no one else is ultimately responsible for your behavior. That's not calling you a liar (making it personal again?); it's telling you the only one ultimately responsible for what you post is the person looking back at you from the mirror." Good point. Since you're a moderator, why don't you just shut my account off. I need to be a part of this ridiculous web site like I need a hole in the head. You continue to kiss Dennis's ass, and I can now look myself in the mirror.

Don't call me a liar. If you took the time to read the posts, you would see that I clearly offered to esldude a suggestion that we stop with the back and forth, regardless of fault, from this point forward. If you read our posts from that point on, you'll see that, "I tried, but he just won't have it. Apparently, its more important to act like a child than it is to engage in mature discussions.", was a completely true statement. If you don't like my posts, then shut my account off. But if you think I'm going to stand by while some jackass enters every conversation I get into, just to give me a hard time, you're mistaken.

I can't tell you what one to switch to, but I can say the one Audiogon uses is terrible. I don't know what its called, but I would avoid it.

"Incidentally, isn't dbPoweramp CD ripper and music file converting software? Out of curiosity, why exactly did you reference dbPoweramp?" First, lets look at my post. Its #10, so you only have to scroll up a couple of inches from your last post (#11), to see it. "If you're using dbPoweramp, I'll assume your using it on Windows." It really doesn't matter what dbPoweramp does. It confirms that he is using Windows when working with his files. The rest of it is self explanatory, at least to me. "Sometimes Windows doesn't fully unmount your drives/partitions when you shut it down, or log out. This prevents other OS's from using those drives. To properly unmount drives in Windows do this: 1. Log into Windows. 2. Once you're up and running in windows, do a complete shutdown while holding down the shift key. You should now be able to use all your drives (if that was the problem)." This is a very common problem. If I don't shut my Windows machine down properly, nothing else can access the drives Windows mounted. By the looks of it, you still haven't come up with a fix, so why rule out other solutions?

I tried, but he just won't have it. Apparently, its more important to act like a child than it is to engage in mature discussions.

I have no idea what to say other than you're a complete waste of food. If you have a problem with what ARC told me, why not just ask them? I even gave you the person you need to speak to. Do you realize how petty your argument is? Does it really matter why ARC calls it a T instead of a D? If you want to have a discussion/argument over something, pick something that's at least worth talking about.

As usual, you're wrong. Any type of digital switching amp can be labeled Class D, including Tripath. This is from the article you list above. [TABLE] [TR] [TD=width: 80%]"A class-T digital power amplifier that delivers 150Wpc into 8 ohms, and 300Wpc into 4 ohms at 0.1% THD"; single-ended and balanced inputs; "this is one cool-running amp, a quality that will assist in keeping your power bill low and be especially attractive if you are one who leaves your amp powered up 24/7." That easily falls under class D. But don't take my word for it. Call ARC and ask to speak to Leonard. They chose to market the amps as class T because they wanted to avoid the word digital. Many high end audio consumers don't have a positive view on anything digital related. Class D/Digital amps are now starting to be accepted in the audiophile community in greater numbers, but if you go back 10+ years to when ARC first brought these amps to market, that wasn't the case. Back then, the word digital was considered profanity by most audiophiles. So, that's why ARC chose to call the amps T, instead of D. And like I said above, you can call them and verify everything I'm telling you. Now, if we look at the consumer segment of the market, we find the opposite to be true. Non audiophiles tend to think of digital as a good thing. That's why companies like, Sony, Onkyo, Denon and many others that use the tripath design labeled the amps as class D instead of class T. If you put as much time into worrying about your system as you do criticizing others, you'll learn a lot more than what you know now. There's more to audio than magazine reviews.[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [TABLE] [TR] [TD=width: 80%]"A class-T digital power amplifier that delivers 150Wpc into 8 ohms, and 300Wpc into 4 ohms at 0.1% THD"; single-ended and balanced inputs; "this is one cool-running amp, a quality that will assist in keeping your power bill low and be especially attractive if you are one who leaves your amp powered up 24/7."[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

I understand what you are asking, but there's no way to really classify sound quality. Class D amps can sound very different from each other, just like an A or AB. You just have to try them and see what works best for you. Also, Class D seems to be very polarizing. I haven't heard one I liked enough to buy. If I had to pick the Class D amp I liked the best, it would be the Audio Research 150.2. They called it Class T instead of Class D because they were upset that everyone called them digital amps. But they are Class D. If you live in the US, try The Cable Company. They have class D amps to lend out. I wanted to try some, so they sent me a PS Audio, NuForce, and one other. I think it was a Rogue, but I could be mistaken. If you use them, you don't have to buy one just to hear what it sounds like.

When you said that you didn't want all the extra features, I assumed it was a price issue. I didn't realize it was a requirement the features were to be left out. There's not too many products like what you're asking for. Everybody usually wants the stuff that you can't have. If you want better quality, DYI may be a good option. If you can find an empty rack mount case, or even a cheap one where you can remove all of the internals, you can put some high quality outlets, like Furutech, in the box, and wire it up by hand. As long as you can get the right case, it should be easy to do.

I haven't used a Mac in a while, but if you right click on the hard drive icon, a menu should pop up. Look in that menu for a choice called properties (or something similar). When you click on properties, you should be able to see what file system the drive/partition is using. You may have to look for it. It will be something like, ext4, ntfs, exfat, fat32, or possibly something else. You shouldn't have any trouble finding. it. If you're using dbPoweramp, I'll assume your using it on Windows. Try this before you do anything, because its quick and easy. Sometimes Windows doesn't fully unmount your drives/partitions when you shut it down, or log out. This prevents other OS's from using those drives. To properly unmount drives in Windows do this: 1. Log into Windows. 2. Once you're up and running in windows, do a complete shutdown while holding down the shift key. You should now be able to use all your drives (if that was the problem).

I said I was done arguing with you over this. Although, I was kind of hoping your last post had some decent points in it that we could discuss, and not argue. Instead, your replies are so silly that I wouldn't know where to begin. I was a fool for losing my temper over some of your earlier posts. I have better things to do with my time. Think whatever you like.

Can you get Panamax? They make one for about the same price. The one you reference should work OK, but the Panamax looks like they give you a bit more for the money.

So? Did it ever occur to you that you can hear differences in whatever frequency range you do hear? If you're color blind, can you adjust the resolution on your computer monitor up and down, and still see differences, even though your eyesight is compromised? At this point, arguing with you and esldude is a complete waste of time. You're comparing 2 products that you've never heard. All you can do is guess. Even if you look at the specs, you're still guessing. If you want conformation on how a component sounds, you have to listen to it. Its not negotiable. Every single successful designer on the planet conducts extensive listening tests on their own products. If you spoke to any one of them and told them you can make a determination on how one of their products sounds just by looking at the specs, they would laugh in your face. And rightly so. What makes you and esldude so special that you can bypass the same methods of evaluation used by the entire industry; up to and including the most gifted minds in the field? You can't, and no amount of talking can change that. One last point and then I'm done with this thread. If you gave me the Ayre and Cambridge dacs to test, and I put them in a system that is capable of a decent amount of resolution, I couldn't get them to sound 99% similar, no matter how hard I tried. And that goes for any 2 dacs made by different companies. If you took the time to listen, you would know this for yourself.

What file system are you using on your NAS?

"I have not heard either DAC. Even if I had, I would have the same thoughts you label as speculation." Proof that you're on crack.