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sailor2005

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  1. Just to be clear, the crossovers I was talking about, both analog and DSP, are active. The analog ones can be usually found in pro-audio like dbx or Ashly, and can be easily adapted to hifi or home audio use. From what I have read, the Ashly models are better. As for DSP based systems, the only one I have heard and played with is the Driverack from dbx. A friend of mine got one for a 3 way open baffle he made. It integrated nicely to his home theater system since it has a selector for input sensitivity but needs XLR to RCA adapters on my friend's system. Super easy to program and has a lot of memories for different settings. Sound wise, no complaints. Very transparent, at least to us. One thing, it is more expensive than most minidsp devices. As for the minidsp range, I do not know how easy (or hard) are they to program nor if you can change and check settings in real time while playing music. On the dbx models you can change in RT and if you go from the model Driverack PA2 and up, you have an app to do all changes and configurations.
  2. If you use a miniDSP (or any DSP, for that matter) with analog input, you will be doing a analog-to-digital conversion, then a digital-to-analog. Basically the quality will be limited by the AD-DA process on the miniDSP. An analog crossover would avoid those conversions but typically they have fewer configuration options, a DSP based system can have many more to fine tune the speaker. In any case, how good the system ends up being depends on how well you integrate the drivers with the x-over (analog or dsp). Both approaches have their pros and cons.
  3. Your solution? There were none, just questions. And yes... it's always "common sense" if somebody else takes the risk.. I guess that's why they use "cannon fodder" in war If somebody really needs to have a certain brand of cable, and not risk buying a counterfeit, he/she needs to go to the particular brand's webpage and find out about authorized dealers. As simple as that. If the cable does not work, it can be either exchanged or returned, and you don't have to worry about counterfeits. Oh..that is what? common sense!! Viva el sentido comun!!!!
  4. Dude..chill...and please read..go to the AQ webpage..check their link about counterfeits..read the terms: Terms & Conditions Any cable found to be an authentic AudioQuest cable will be returned to you at no cost. Any cable found (or determined) by AudioQuest to be counterfeit will be destroyed at the authentication center. You will not be compensated in any way for a destroyed counterfeit cable. You do whatever you want to do with them, I just suggested not taking the risk. But then again...
  5. DO NOT send your cables to AQ. On their webpage they say they will destroy the cables if they say cables are counterfeit. So what do you gain by sending the cables? Nothing, you will still be out of the money you paid. What if both pairs are "found" to be counterfeit? Do the cables work with other USB devices? A proper certified USB cable should NOT have issues with a DAC.
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