Cary

First, thank you for implementing R128 volume normalization. One thing I cannot find, is what level are you calibrating to? Most streaming providers are -14 to -16 LUFS, so I am guessing you are in same range, but for those of us that calibrate to LUFS, it would be nice to know exactly what your level is.

I have been happy with these at $30 pair. https://www.amazon.com/Units-Balanced-Microphone-CUSTOM-Amphenol/dp/B01DTYLWNC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1535350360&sr=8-2&keywords=worlds+best+cables+mogami+xlr

Wow, just wow. An amazingly explanatory review with citations to additional information and a clear understanding of the reviewer’s beliefs and preferences. All reviews should strive to meet this level. Thank you.

I had a Modi 1 and Modi 2, both usb driven. The two sounded slightly better, but not enough I would run out and replace the 1 (mine died and I figured I would just upgrade). If you were to replace the 1 with a 2, I would consider the Modi Multibit, which is a more significant upgrade. Not sure if this helps you, but figured I would offer my experience, but understand USB does not equal toslink.

I forgot about those.

Final update of where I ended up with this (which is over budget, but happy with the results). Dell 3620 Workstation Schiit Modi Multibit Schiit Vali 2 Parasound Zamp v3 Totem Mites Rythmik L12 (could have lived without it, but why not). Room treatments behind speakers and at first reflection on left (no wall to right). So what happened is that after upgrading the Maverick integrated to the Vali 2 and Parsound, things were sounding pretty good. I then decided to hook up a Velodyne HGS-10 I had to flesh it out. Better bottom end, but still missing some midbass punch. Since the Velodynes are prone to blowing up and I really like my Rythmik F15HP, I decided to give their L12 a go to replace the Velodyne ($500, less the Velodyne sales price of about $300). The L12 is a bit better than the HGS, but not the massive improvement the F series Rythmik was over my HGS-12. So better, but still missing that midbass slam and a bit on the top end. $400 later, I bought a set of used Totem Mites. Way better, more open, better midbass, and not too bright. I am now happy with it, nice sounding, and can work all day at the desk while listening. Still not my main system though. Oh, the Modi Multibit was because they had B stock units for $200, so why not.

First, don’t go reinstalling everything. Try recovering first: https://www.howtogeek.com/222262/how-to-reset-your-forgotten-password-in-windows-10/ If that doesn’t work, you can still delete her user and set up a new one without wiping the OS and all programs and starting from scratch. Finally, you may want to try Start10 so you can configure Wondows to work in the way that works easiest for her.

Don’t do that, instead every time you listen to them, post about how good they sound. I bet he would hate my Sunfire Stereo amp because it sounds so good, and is, but isn’t Class D.

I am so glad I am not the only person in the world who looked at roon and the rental cost and said no way. Call me stupid, call me old fashioned, but I prefer to pay for and outright own my purchases. Jriver has been great, bought it 5 years ago and have paid $25 to upgrade it to the current version a few times.

If you are relying solely on specs, I would want an independent verfication. Personally, I believe amps do sound different, so would not rely solely on specs or measurements.

Shh, don't tell GUTB, but yes. This one I believe works through Wifi, but is supposed to sound good. https://store.google.com/us/product/chromecast_audio?hl=en-US Chromecast Audio Dongle. $25. Peachtree makes a Bluetooth Streamer for $100- https://www.peachtreeaudio.com/bt1-bluetooth-receiver.html There are likely less expensive out there.

Great. Now I have to take him off my list of people who enjoy self depreciating humor.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_022RN303/Yamaha-R-N303.html This should meet your goals.

Meet GUTB. Some GUTB to English translations: 1) "Most" means himself. 2) His definition of "Audiophile" means only if he has approved it, and it better cost more than new car. 3) "[N]ot for an audiophile" means you are not a member of GUTB's exclusive club of himself, him, and his ego. 4) "[C]onsumer-grade kit" means "ew, what do you mean you like hamburgers, I only it Kobe filets flown in straight from Japan."

You need to provide your definition of affordable. For one person that means $100, another $5,000. Any size restrictions?