Luckbad

Price: $165 Currency: USD Ships to: USA

I sent an inquiry via email with regard to the upcoming Massdrop Cavalli Tube Hybrid amp. https://www.massdrop.com/buy/massdrop-x-alex-cavalli-cth-tube-hybrid-amp If you're able to make one, there will be a lot of interest from people and I would be happy to refer them to you. Thanks! This is the information from the site for what it uses currently: Power supply: Wall wart with 28V DC 1.25A Power consumption: Maximum 35W (28V, 1.25A), ~9W idle

Output #4 (top of the two BNC audio outs)

Depends on the DAC. Most manufacturers give some headroom to their input circuit designs so the higher voltage of the AES3id won't fry anything (it might cause trouble when the DAC evaluates the incoming format), but you shouldn't use it unless your DAC is designed for it.

You're not alone! It was confusing to me as well at first. I experimented until I was sure of which was which, but the short version is: refer to the back of the unit. Output #4 is AES/11id, #3 is S/P-DIF. The top of the two BNC audio outputs is AES, and the bottom is S/P-DIF. The manual should be updated so the numbers in the list correspond with the numbers on the physical unit.

For my setup, which is admittedly less resolving than some because I use a NOS Tube DAC (MHDT Labs Atlantis), I cannot hear any gains using two Mutec MC3+USB stacked, nor can I hear any benefit with an Intona Industrial in front. The latter I was able to A/B test because I have two identical DACs with matched tubes, two Mutec MC-3+USB, and a Schiit Sys to swap back and forth. The stacked Mutecs I couldn't directly compare, but I didn't perceive any loss removing the second Mutec after a night of listening.

To throw my quick thoughts here... I grabbed a Mutec MC-3+USB and MC-1.2 to try them out. I've tried a number of other USB->S/P-DIF converters and other solutions (CI Audio Transient MKII, Audio-GD DI-U8, Audio-GD DI-2014, Gustard U12, UpTone Regen, Schiit Wyrd, and a couple others). Most of those either did nothing obvious, very little, or made things worse. The MC3+USB is the first I've ever used where I thought it clearly improved things. Everything became audibly cleaner, and very obvious with A/B testing. My primary chain is an MHDT Labs Atlantis DAC -> ampsandsound Mogwai -> Sennheiser HD650. I tried an Intona (Industrial) in front of the Mutec and didn't notice any improvements, but the MC3+USB is so obviously great that I got a second for my work chain.

PM Sent.

I didn't yet. Going to wait for a few more months before picking something up.

Thanks! From opinions and reading it sounds like I'll grab the upgraded Breeze Audio DU-U8. The Regen does fix it, but I don't want to wait for another and the transport is a bit less expensive.

I know this has been discussed to death in various threads, but I'm the worst person ever at searching. I'm trying to decide what to do for my Audio-GD NFB-2.32. Since it's my less expensive work DAC, I'd like to keep the budget under $200. I already have good cables and such, so I'm specifically targeting getting the USB signal to my DAC. I was going considering using my brand new ESI Juli@ XTe, but I'd rather not install that on my work computer secretly. So, instead of even opening it after its long journey from Germany, I'm going to sell it and use the proceeds for this (hence the $200 budget, as I expect to get about that for an unopened Juli@ XTe). The first question: A) Use a USB isolation/reclocker and continue to use the NFB-2.32's USB32 input. B) Use an external USB->S/PDIF converter to go into the DIR9001 Coaxial input. I'll probably get yet another Regen if Option A is ideal. One caveat is that this does not have the TCXO upgrade, but I might be able to buy that off a Head-Fier for $20 and install it myself. The Regen cleans up my intermittent issues with the USB32, but I only have one right now and I decided to keep that one at home. If Option B is ideal, what's the best option for under $200 for USB->Coax? Bonus points for I2S (preferably HDMI) to test it on my Audio-GD Master-11, but not a problem if it doesn't have it. Breeze Audio DU-U8? hiFace Two? Gustard U12? HiFime UH1? Used Melodious MX-U8? SMSL? Relatively simple DIY projects are also an option. I have a good soldering iron and a bit of experience. Thanks much. Hopefully this doesn't devolve into a debate, but it's my fault if it does. Preferably, I'd like to just get pros/cons of anything you're familiar with.

My apologies for making this even more frustrating for you. I was trying to be helpful, but I just made it even more annoying for you. I wish I had an inside track to Audio-GD and that I could provide legitimate help to you. I'll leave the thread now and won't cause you any additional bother.

I'm just operating based on what I hear from either side. I wonder if one of the Audio-GD distributors would be able to help? Unlikely, but surely one of them can communicate with Audio-GD effectively. I agree that the corrosion damage doesn't look like it could be done in shipping unless the packaging you received was basically melted with battery acid. Have you reached out to get the photos and contacted DHL? It seems like you're pissed and hoping someone here can solve your problem, but none of us can. All I can do is talk about my previous experiences and forward the link to Kingwa.

Unlikely. They take lots of detailed photos just in case, and they're shipped with form-fitted materials for maximum protection. I had a DI-2014 and it came with very good packing materials.

Did you get this sorted out? I know for sure that they take pictures of all of the items they ship before shipping in case it's damaged during shipping. If you ask them for the photos, they'll send them to you. I talked to Kingwa and it seems like this is a shipping damage issue since they'll have pictures before it was shipped to confirm that it was not damaged prior to shipment. In that case, it's the shipping company (presumably DHL) who needs to pay for the damages, and they need to pay for the original shipping and return shipping.