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jetsetter439

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  1. Hi all, OP here. About to pick up these components but just wanted to ensure that the below diagram looks like an accurate one. I'm going to try and procure the cables terminated with spade lugs, or at least make them myself (as long as it doesn't involve soldering ), however I'm wondering if I can also possibly get away with using 4 conductor speaker wire if the aforementioned is unattainable. I know that George had advised against wires without spade lugs given the possibility of the wire straying over to another terminal, so I'm a bit ambivalent. Thanks all and appreciate everyone's help who has contributed.
  2. Hey all, OP here. I have just two more (probably simple) questions for everyone below if you wouldn't mind taking a look. With a 2.1 system set up in parallel such as suggested here, I am wondering if the amplifier volume would also control the bass frequencies being delivered by the sub. Or, will it be necessary to use the volume dial on the sub itself for the bass, since it is connected from the amp via speaker level and not pre-amp or line level. I hope I explained that correctly. Last but not least, when outputting two speaker wires from one amp terminal while setting up in parallel, is it acceptable to simply twist these together into one before connecting to the terminal? Or, do they have to be separated such as when using spade lugs? I imagine it'd okay if two wires being used for the same polarity were to touch, but I figured I would ask. Thanks all, can't thank ya enough!
  3. Thanks George, you've definitely been helpful. I think I have effectively narrowed it down to the below two sets: NAD C 316BEE + either the Definitive or Polk sub NAD C 326BEE (incl pre out) + SVS SB 1000 I am very partial to the form factor of the 316, however I suppose the less geometrically appealing form of the 326 isn't necessarily a dealbreaker. However just curious if you happened to have any thoughts on those Polks above? Or, any other options with both speaker level in and out? Then, I should be able to stop bothering you. EDIT: You also asked about musical tastes. Well, I listen to everything from ambient to doo wop to electronic to soul to r&b to indie rock and nearly everything in between. Yes, it's safe to say I really do listen to everything, however more electronic than usual lately. I can appreciate good bass notes but I don't need (nor would I be looking for) anything that will rattle the windows and potentially drown out the other frequencies.
  4. Thanks, maximum kahuna. I definitely plan on keeping the Schiit (and based on your testimonial, I will go ahead and assume that it doesn't live up to it's name, at least the slang version ).
  5. George, Awesome response yet again. Getting a more universally compatible subwoofer seems like the way to go here. I believe I understand the wiring schematics better this time around as well. Wondering if you had any subwoofer recommendations for me to weigh in addition to the Definitive that Crutchfield recommended. There are some Polks available with the same compatibility but I'm a little apprehensive about the Polk name, as it reminds me of Best Buy. Polk Audio PSW108 Powered subwoofer at Crutchfield.com Polk Audio DSW PRO 550wi Powered subwoofer at Crutchfield.com Thanks again!
  6. UPDATE: It also occured to me that I can simply choose an alternate subwoofer as a way to eliminate the need for any advanced wiring (or, what I see as advanced). The subwoofer I was looking at is this: SVS SB-1000 | Home Theater Sealed Box Subwoofer, however, it has only high level speaker level input, but not output. I called Crutchfield for the heck of it who recommended the Definitive ProSub 1000, which has both of the above mentioned connections. Not really a fan of the looks, as shallow as that sounds, but I can probably live with it. In any event, is choosing a different subwoofer a viable option? And if so, any other recommendations in a similar price range?
  7. Thanks all. I took a look at the Cambridge Audio Azur 651A per davidbeinct's link and it looks like a pretty solid unit, however there is one reviewer who absolutely hates the thing but I guess you can't please everyone. Is Cambridge a pretty good make? I understand they are UK-based with rather mixed feelings toward them but I can't imagine the unit would be a bad one for my usage scenario. There's also the NAD C 326BEE with a Pre Out, which I'm considering. Not as slimline as I had hoped but I suppose that's a small price to pay (figuratively speaking). It's also the amplifier suggested in the setup that I'm going for in this article, called "The Timmy Ho".
  8. George, Your assistance is very helpful so far. However, may I ask if it might be a better option for me to consider a different integrated amp with a dedicated subwoofer output..? Anything somewhat slimline with tone controls (bass/treble) and under $1000 would be preferable. If you have any suggestions please feel free to share. Thanks!
  9. Thanks Inferno. However, these look to be coupled designs. Unless I'm mistaken (which is entirely possible), I'm trying to get two banana plugs coming out of one amp terminal (for example, L red minus). I imagine this would be some type of Y-formation..no? Again, I could be wrong on what's needed here! Edit: Something like this perhaps? http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-274-734-Stackable-Banana-Package/dp/B004IS7KV2 Though, I am unsure of the difference or advantages between 'stackable banana plugs' vs a simple Y-adapter.
  10. Thanks gmgraves for that exceptional response. I think I get it now. And unfortunately none of my friends are into this stuff, despite being in our late 20s/early 30s. They listen to and appreciate music like anyone else, but none are what you'd call an audiophile. In any event, feel free to point me toward the higher priced plugs that you were talking about, as I'd rather have the peace of mind that they were professionally terminated, banana plugged or what have you. Lastly, if I'm envisioning this correctly, how do I get two banana plugged connections going from *one* amp output terminal, for example Left speaker minus?
  11. Your explanation was definitely helpful . However, prepare for extreme amateur translation below. So, you are saying that I can have two independent "outbound" connections from one of the amp's two L/R speaker outputs (with one split end going to a loudspeaker and the other split end going to the subwoofer)? Which, then, of the amp's two available L/Rs should I choose for this initial setup, and which speaker would it go to first? How does the remaining speaker fit in? And, from a technical standpoint, is it as simple as inserting both speaker wire ends into the same hole on the same cylindrical tube and then tightening it back up again? I guess I thought it was some type of electrical hazard to 'couple' connections from any single output, or likewise into a single input.
  12. Sorry I forgot to mention the speakers: Paradigm Millenia One: Paradigm® | Millenia Series | MilleniaOne 2.0 System | Overview
  13. Hi all, First time poster, long time lurker I am interested in purchasing the below components but cannot figure out how to connect them all. A few have told me to connect 'in parallel' but I have searched all over Google and cannot find a clear definition of what the means or how it would apply to these units (most of the information seems to relate to car audio). Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks! Amp: NAD C 316BEE Stereo integrated amplifier at Crutchfield.com Sub: http://www.svsound.com/subwoofers/sealed-box/sb-1000 DAC: http://schiit.com/products/bifrost
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