BlueSkyy

I'd say that means normal.

Agreed. A dram of 30 year old Macallan Sherry Oak improves everything immensely.

No worries. Thanks again.

As a follow up, is JRiver associated with A&K?

@Currawong, I reached out to Dreamus directly and it’s going back to Korea where it was manufactured because there is no repair facility here in the US.

Hi, my SP2000 has a flaky BT module that intermittently drops connection and “stutters” across multiple connected BT devices that connect flawlessly via my iPhone, etc. Merely bringing my hand close to the SP2000 is enough to upset things. Can anyone recommend a repair facility for my A&K device? Thank you.

For me, the postman always rings twice.

Yes I use LatencyMon for PC. NVIDIA drivers kill my audio performance with JRiver.

Yes. No. Maybe. You need to define what low latency is. In telecommunications and or in a chat environment low latency could be anything less than 150ms. When listening to music does it really matter? it is an interesting question however.

True story: Back in the day when I lived in Bermuda, I had an old Bob Carver Phase Linear 700 amplifier that continued to blow fuses in the right channel. It was party time, and I was getting tired of replacing the fuses every couple of minutes until I ran out of fuses. I got the "bright" idea to wrap the blown right channel fuse with aluminum foil as an interim solution. The right channel was back in action until there was this loud pop and smoke and the speaker grill on the right channel speaker, a Pioneer with a 15" woofer, went flying across the room. The voice coil of the woofer was no longer in place but well in front of the speaker and it was the excursion of that voice coil that threw the speaker grill across the room. What had happened was that one of the output transistors shorted putting 110 vdc across the speaker terminals. A word to the wise should be sufficent.

Oh boy.

A slow blow fuse will subject the downstream electronics is a longer overload condition than would a fast blow fuse. Could that lead to damage to the electronics? Who can say. If it were mine, I'd stick with the specified type of fuse.

Any setting within the range will work. If it were mine I’d set it as close to midrange (9v) as I could.

What is the successor to the X1. We need to know!

Maybe a link: Amazon.com: Ubiquiti UF-SM-1G-S UFiber Single-Mode Module 1Gig BiDi 1-Pair : Electronics