JMotzi

A quick online search using EPS48R1-16 brings up a few different vendor choices including Amazon (Adapter-DirecTV-Model-EPS48R0-16-BGW-320/dp/B09MBDQ69J). If looking for the a connector only, you might try Mouser.

Also this site High Definition Tape Transfers: https://www.highdeftapetransfers.ca/

I do enjoy both modes of listening. You might try Digital Concert Hall which is the streaming service of the Berlin Philharmonic. They have now remastered most of the concerts from the last 2 years into immersive audio. So you get great sound while watching the musicians.

Time to move DCH from my Oppo to my Apple TV box to get the better sound.

So ask HDPlex - they are nice people and I have found them helpful in the past.

If I understand correctly, you are using wifi to cover the majority of the distance and you want to replace the ethernet cable from the access point to the music server with a bunch of new hardware and a short fibre optic cable. Is that correct? For my education (sorry to not answer your question), what does that accomplish?

Highly recommended! JM

I have had great experience with the larger HDPlex PSUs and for a full size unit, the Seasonic 600W Fanless PSU SSR-600TLR. Both are capable of reliable 24/7 service with zero noise and little heat. HDPlex does a good job of standing behind their products as well. Designing a PC involves a series or compromises with regards to computing power, memory, cooling, component size, overall size and form factor. Changing out one component for one of a different design could upset the design balance. Sometimes it is necessary to go for a redesign if a substituted component doesn't work with the others. Here is an example of how I made choices in designing a silent PC to support graphics (not audio) work: Passively Cooled PC with 65W-CPU & 47W Workstation Graphics For me the no-compromise items were computing & graphics power, memory, reliability and absolutely no noise. So I had to be flexible on other design elements such as form factor, overall size, aesthetics, etc. It's not a big machine (smaller than a mid tower) but it's not a tiny console box either. I guess it's a long way of saying that unless you do an exact replacement for your failed brick, you may have to consider a redesign. BTW, 4 years is a very reasonable life span for a big brick run 24/7. My experience is that big bricks run 24/7 do need to be replaced from time to time (about 2-3 years). JM

That's all still there, correct? And if you don't have Roon [I must be the only one on the planet who doesn't yet ], well you still have JR It's still an excellent App. I dont care if they don;t develop it further as long as it still works with new IOS updates. The track record for many types of software when continually "improved" is often bloatware, so I am happy that it's still simple. Given that you have pointed out the nice features of the product then yes it still has a place because those features are still nice. Bottom line - I am only driven to change my audio system when something comes along that better fits or better enhances my listening preferences. It's nice to have choices! btw - I stil use a very very old iPad for JRemote - it's the only thing I use that iPad for and it's one of the few softwares that still run on it JM

Here is a good article on this site regarding setting up a high performance network: https://www.computeraudiophile.com/ca/reviews/stability-and-performance-from-access-networks-r649/

Yes Liquid cooling is well proven. "Quiet" however is a very relative term. For example, a cubicle office environment (where the air conditioning is often used as white noise to mask other noises) is actually quite noisy compared to perhaps a home environment. In that office environment, one might not be able to hear a spinning disk for example. Likewise, a home computing environment with "silent" PCs can reveal noises that we completely unknown before. For example, the loudest noise in my computing environment now is the hum of my monitor. Each layer of noise removed reveals another source. It's like the removal of excess salt as seasoning - the other flavors are revealed. It has been a nice journey and I enjoy the music at my desk so much more now.

I'm currently using this for image processing, not audio - but it shows that it's possible to make quite a powerful fanless computer these days. In normal (not stress testing) operation, the heatsinks are very close to ambient and the processor, etc quite cool. Passively Cooled PC with 65W-CPU & 47W Workstation Graphics

For drag and drop you do not need the paste option. You just drag and drop from a folder on your computer to a folder on your HAP. Yes it's grayed out on mine too, but that's irrelevant. The latest version of the HAP Transfer App (Windows) is 1.3.0.09060; There is a button on the app console "Explore HAP (Show in Explorer)". That opens a window where you can navigate to the folders on your HAP and drag and drop. Other things to check (there are 3 variables: your PC, Your HAP, your network): Can you see the HAP-Z1ES in file explorer? You should be able to right click and view properties. If I double click on the HAP-Z1ES icon in the Network section of file explorer I get a web page with the "Sony HDD Audio Player HAP-Z1ES Web Browzer App" along with an out of service disclaimer for this old app. This proves you can at least see the device. Is your PC seeing other shared folders, devices, computers on your network and can you navigate to those folders (assuming sharing is on). If not then the problem may be Win10 (search internet for fixes for network issues with version 1803 for example) Is your HAP using a wired or wireless connection? If wireless, try a wired connection to see if the stronger/faster connection helps. When I first set up my unit 4.5 years ago, I used a wired connection to populate the HAP which was much faster and more reliable than the wireless. Since then I use the wireless to keep it up to date (several [not hundreds] albums at a time). Hope this helps - sorry if I have repeated what others have already suggested. JM

I've had mine for 4.5 years and have 7 white lines, the first of which was a couple years ago. Otherwise all continues to be well. JM

It's a bit clunky but yes it's possible to stream music to the Oppo. I have a BDP-103D. First you have to get the network to the Oppo. A direct wire connection is easiest but wireless will do. I use a TP-Link WR700 travel router to capture my wireless signal but you use an Airport Express or many other methods. Use the Setup menus on the Oppo to initialize the connection (one time only). Second, you have to get your music to the network. I use JRiver Media Server. Third, To listen to the music on your Oppo: 1. Go to the Oppo home page 2. Choose the "Network" icon 3. You should see your music network as a choice. Click on that. 4. Now you will see the file structure of your music. Navigate and choose to listen. As a I said above, it's not the greatest interface but it works well. JM