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"The version that I have is a compiled program and launches like any other mac application. I load WAV or AIFF files and it calculates the dynamic range of the the music." Thanks for your reply. I downloaded tt_dynamic_range_meter_mac_1_0.dmg available via the link above and then installed the application from the mpkg. The install seems to have worked fine, but I can't find anything in my applications folder. I tried searching my mac for "tt dynamic range meter", and the only thing it finds is the dmg and mpkg files. That's why I was confused about how to use it. Do you remember where you found it on the Pleasurize Music site? I might be willing to make a donation, but I'd like to know if the app is actually available first, and that they are available to provide support. Their site is really terrible and doesn't seem to be up to date. I also don't know why they won't disable or moderate comments, because they're full of page after page of spam posts. So it doesn't seem like the kind of organization that I want to give my money to.

I just found a link to something called "TT Dynamic Range OFFLINE Meter for the Mac platform" at the link below. I installed it, but now I have no idea what to do with it or how to use it. I can't even figure out how to launch it or if it's supposed to be part of iTunes. The person sharing the link is also a bit mystified because it's mentioned on the Pleasurize Music Foundation blog, but it's not listed in their downloads page as mentioned. http://www.insidehomerecording.com/?p=952 If anybody else tries it and figures out what to do with it, please let me know.

"Is there anything out there like this for Macs?" I'm looking for the same thing. If anybody has any suggestions please let us know.

I'm moving my system around and changing and reconnecting some cables, including USB cables. I was just looking at the specs on the side of two cables, and wondering if anybody can interpret these numbers. The thicker cable says 28AWG/1P+24AWG/2C, while another thinner cable says 28AWG/2C+28AWG/2C. I understand one cable is thicker because it has some 24AWG wires in it, but what do the first series of numbers mean and what's the difference between 1P and 2C? I looked at a few other cables I have and most are all 28AWG, but some say 1P and some say 2C. I did a google search and found the post below that says "The higher quality USB cables use 2C instead of 1P for the data line", but I've found no other sources to confirm that, and no explanation about the differences. http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=1472422 Does anybody know anything about these specs and whether one is better for audio or not? Thanks.

<em>"I could be wrong, but I interpreted this to mean I should turn off the wireless card (airport card)"</em><br /> <br /> I thought the same thing, but just double checked the book and on pg. 125 he says "Kill those routers... they're broadcasting unrelated and unwanted digital signals right into your sensitive stereo systems. When you're listening critically, if you can, turn off any wireless routers in the home."<br /> <br />

<em>"would ask my neighbors to turn off their wireless routers. If you have ever connected to a wireless network you know that you can connect to several other wireless networks that are not internal to your home."</em><br /> <br /> I live in an apartment building, and there currently 10 wifi networks showing up on my computer. So if this is a big problem, then I'm screwed. I'm ready to get out the tin foil hat.

"I did finally solve the issue with an external high-powered USB hub from Dr Bott. This was the only thing that solved the problem "permanently" I've had similar issues with an HRT Music Streamer II. A hub seems to be the answer, but why does HRT write in bold in their Setup documents for both Win and Mac: "IMPORTANT!... we recommend that you connect the Streamer directly to your computer’s USB port, avoiding the use of a Hub between the Streamer and computer." I understand that not all hubs are created equal, but they're clearly saying avoid the use of any hub.

"Still not sure whether this whole Snow-Leopard-for-$29 thing is worth it, eh? ;-) The cost certainly isn't the issue, it's just that I've seen no other reasons to upgrade. My Mac Mini is used only as a music server, and I don't see what benefit I would received by upgrading the OS. "any sonic rivals will first have to match the ease and reliability of use, especially gapless playback. No tagging, no loading it just works like iTunes. My quest has always been for the look and function of iTunes with improved sonics, that's all." My feelings exactly, and from what I can tell Audirvana isn't quite there yet.

"But why spend time interpreting what I say? Just go ahead and try the program and you'll quickly see whether or not it's to your liking." I'm still running OSX 10.5.8, so I'd have to upgrade to 10.6 just to try it. So I'm trying to figure out if it's worth the expense and trouble. It sounds like a bit of pain and maybe I'll wait until the iTunes integration is finished.

"To play music, just start Audirvana, click the "plus" sign at the bottom of the playlist, and point it to where you have your music (e.g., your iTunes "Music" library). Then add individually or in groups with appropriate keys (e.g., command-click for multiple items, command-A plus double-click for *all* items, etc.), or via drag-n-drop." Maybe I'm missing something, but that sounds like I have to load all my music into Audirvana, which is what I said. When I tried Amarra or Pure Music I didn't have to do anything like that. They automatically recognized and used every song in my iTunes library.

I was excited to hear about a new audio player for mac, but if there's currently no itunes integration how does it work? Do I have to load all my music into Audirvana as well?

I've had an HRT Music Streamer II for awhile and have left the Audio Midi settings on my Mac Mini set to 24bit/96kHz, since I have a lot of 24/96 files. However, I also have 16/44 files and tonight I was reading that for optimum playback, the audio file should be sent to the DAC as it is encoded. So I wanted to do some listening tests to see if I could hear a difference, but the only option available for the HRT in my Audio Midi settings was 24bit. Is this normal for this DAC, or do I have a problem somewhere? I can select several options for kHz, from 32 to 96, but only 2ch-24bit. Thanks, Andrew

Is there any particular reason to use the 1/4 jacks instead of the XLR? Either way I'd need adapters to rca. I also found another forum discussion where someone says the 1/4" AUX outs were "designed for monitoring and I'm not sure if they have the same audio quality". He offers no technical reasons for this either, so I don't know if that's true.

I've been considering a Behringer DEQ2496 primarily for room correction. However, I've also been reading that it has a pretty good DAC. So I'm thinking it might also be better, or at least as good, as the HRT Music Streamer II that I'm using now. I've been reading some reviews, as well as the manual and I think I understand how it would be connected, but I'm still a bit confused. Since there's no USB input or rca outputs, would it be best to use a toslink optical cable with mini-phone adapter from my mac mini to the DEQ, and then XLR-to-rca cables from the DEQ outputs to the aux inputs on my amp? If I understand things correctly, this would be the best way to use the DEQ because it would be entirely in the digital domain. However, I would not be able to use the DEQ any other sources like my turntable and tuner. If I wanted to use it with them as well would I use the tape in and out on my amp with XLR-to-rca cables from the input and output on the DEQ? I hope all that makes sense, and any advice would be much appreciated. I live in a pretty small apartment and my listening area is a multi-use L-shaped room, so large bass traps and room treatments aren't really a viable option. Thanks, Andrew

"So someone from Canadia can't order it for US$89 from Amazon.com?" <br /> <br /> No, Canadians cannot order many items from amazon.com. If you put stuff like this in a shopping cart and enter your address you get a message that "this item cannot be shipped to Canada." If you go to amazon.ca the items are not even listed. Free trade really doesn't seem to apply to the little guy, and there's still a lot of market protection going on here.