Stevem324

Good advice! Thanks!

I just ordered a MU1 to replace my ancient Bryston BDP-2. I'll be using it my Bricasti M1SE. I had my Bryston connected with an ethernet cable directly to my Netgear Mesh wifi booster. I was thinking of getting a network switch to put between the wifi booster and the MU1. Would it be beneficial to get a network switch for this application? I was thinking of getting a Innous PhoenixNet, Melco, or SOTM switch but I don't want to waste my money if it's not going to make a major impact due the MU1's excellent noise rejection. Would I be better off going direct from the wifi booster to the MU1 and putting my money into a very good AES cable and power cords? Also I'm looking for suggestions for a good AES cable without breaking the bank. I was thinking of getting a Triode Wire Labs AES cable. Anyone have experience with that cable. I've also had good experience with Revelation Audio Labs digital cables. I'm not new to network switches and the audio SQ benefits that they provide. In my basement system, I have a Etherregen, external After Dark OCXO clock, and Sonore Optical Module Deluxe with LPS for all of these components. My streamer in this system is an Aurender W20SE connected to a May KTE. In this system, I have my main router ethernet wired to the Sonore OMD and fiber optic to the ER. Thanks in advance for advice!

I used to own the 4z and now I have the 1266TC, Susvara, Utopia and ZMF VO. I have no desire to own a headphone that I feel needs EQ. I stream using my Aurender W20SE/Holo May KTE and I have no practical way of adding EQ. I enjoy my headphones without EQ using either my Enleum 23R or my Auris Nirvana headphone amps. When the LCD5 first came out, there were a lot of rave reviews and I was tempted to buy it. I'm glad that I resisted buying a headphone that is bright without EQ. I don't have an issue with EQ but it's not easily implemented in my system.

Downloaded updated app, all is good on my W20SE. 🙂 Thank you!

Same problem, seems like these issues only happen with Qobuz. Not sure why but everytime an issue like this comes up it’s with Qobuz, Tidal works fine.

Updated the software on my W20SE to 4.21.971. Qobuz skipping tracks issue resolved! Thanks Ari!

I have a W20SE and I have the same issue with Qobuz. I hope this gets resolved soon. I have subscriptions to both Qobuz and Tidal. No issue with Tidal. I've had a few issues in the past and it always seems to be with Qobuz. I think I downloaded the latest software on Thursday and my issue with Qobuz started on Friday.

Just to follow-up on my connectivity issues with my Aurender N100H and ER, I can confirm that changing my WiFi booster from a Helios-EX RE2200T to a Netgear EAX80 has resolved all issues. My old booster was about 3-4 years old. As an added bonus, I think the sound quality is better with the new booster.

@ R1200CL, thank you for your suggestions! I think I've found the root cause of my issues but I won't know for sure for a few days. I think my WiFi extender was the source of my issues including disconnects and music occasionally studdering. I changed my WiFi extender to a Netgear model that I was using in another area of my home. Since the change, I have not experienced an issue. I think my old extender was getting progressively worse such that I was experiencing issues almost daily. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the issue has been resolved but I need more time to make sure.

I don’t know that my N100H is the root cause for losing the network connection. I use 2 Paul Hynes SR4T linear power supplies, one for the clock and one for the ER. I use a DH Labs D-750 75 ohm cable with 75 ohm BNC connectors. I use my own modem, a Netgear C1000, and a Nighthawk router, and my internet service is Comcast. I don’t know a thing about command interface and ping.

Currently I’m listening and no issues. Should I wait until the next time my N100H loses connection to try flipping the switch and in and out with the power? How did you resolve your issue?

Are you saying to remove power from the ER, flip the external clock switch, then power up the ER? Is their a reason to suspect the external clock is causing the issue?

My clock is powered by a Paul Hynes SR4T at 12 volts. I haven’t tried disconnecting the AfterDark Queen clock.

After thinking about my previous post, the dropouts aren’t the most annoying issue, it’s the glitchy playback that’s most annoying. When my N100H disconnects it’s playback becomes glitchy. I can easily reconnect to my network that’s not a problem. After reconnecting, the glitchy playback continues. I just noticed in the Aurender Conductor app there is clear cashe option in the advanced settings. I may try clearing the cashe the next time I get the glitchy playback. Anyone else having issues with their N100H? Does anyone have an Innuos Zenith mk3 or a higher level Aurender that can comment or their satisfaction when used with the Etherregen? I couldn’t be happier with the SQ of my setup so I really don’t want to upgrade my N100H but if I continue to have these issues I may end up doing so.

I also have an Aurender N100H and ER. I don’t have the handshake issue but my N100H often disconnects from my network. I have to shut down the N100H, then shut down my LPS powering the ER, then I shut down my LPS to my Optical Module Deluxe, and finally shut off my WiFi extender. I power everything back up in reverse order starting with the WiFi extender and lastly the N100H. Usually it won’t disconnect until I’m done listening. I leave everything powered up over night but when I try to stream something the next day, often my N100H is disconnected. Sometimes it disconnects during my listening session. I also have an AfterDark Queen OCXO clock connected to my ER. For reference, I also have a Innuos Phoenix USB reclocker and the Holo May KTE. When everything is working, the sound is absolutely fantastic! The dropouts are extremely annoying and I’m considering trading in my N100H for a Innuos Zenith mk3. Anyone with a N100H figure out the cause of these dropouts?