drez

I have done further research. Upgrading high current DC wiring is not simple. Apparently there is potential for galvanic reaction between poorly chosen conductor metals and the tin plated molex crimp connectors. Silver is especially reactive with the tin plating, as is bare copper to a lesser degree. Tinned copper, as used in most industrial applications is good to use. If materials are used which have poor galvanic compatibility, the connection will deteriorate over time and become unreliable. The further problem is that it is very difficult to produce a good quality crimp connection by hand. To meet the Molex specs tight tolerances in a range of criteria is needed, more than what can be controlled or verified by the average enthusiast working by hand. The quality of crimping probably doesn't matter too much for lower power stuff, but if you are using tinned copper and standard molex connectors there is probably little to be gained by building DIY cables, apart from better shielding or perhaps twisting, which can be done with the stock cables which are professionally terminated.

I like your idea Audiophile Neuroscience. I too have the 300W HDPlex and it is very nice but the loom is not as nice as the one that came with the teradak for a number of reasons. I have messed around with computer cabling before and IME it's worth doing at least to reduce contact resistances. Because I'm crazy I'm looking at the new wire from Oyaide, but likely waste of money. Also other hard decision is regarding dielectric - PVC is not really bad in theory it might filter out some of the high frequency noise but would increase impedance. My current thinking is to find some decent wire with relevant certifications and good crimped connectors, and individually sleeve the wires with braided shield, ground the shields to unused connector. One potential downside is risk of shorting if bare braided shields are inside the computer case. One could either add insulation or just leave the shield outside the case as umbillical section and leave inside unshielded. I am also thinking to get rid of the umbillical connection and just run cables straight out with a good strain relief inside the case to get rid of even more contacts and messing around with extra terminations making extra work.

I should probably add to my previous post so I don't sound like an entitled idiot. I have sorted the issues with the storage after some work, but still no luck getting windows to see the file server. At least we have a workaround. Cannot fault Daphile at all especially considering the ease of use and sound quality. I may be imagining but I think I prefer the sound with the file server switched off anyway. To clarify the fault is with Windows not Daphile, and I greatly appreciate the Daphile software and can only wonder why I didn't start using it sooner.

same problem here - major step backwards in usability THX Microsoft Windoze... Now have additional problem my music storage drive wont load unless set as read only (after move drive to windows machine to transfer files). Windows now loads some sqeezebox driver which I cannot uninstall to get windows to see Daphile machine as netword drive. File access seems possible as read only and not as true network drive.

I have both of these, and comparing between the two, the Teradak linear is more focussed, detailed, dynamic, better extended, better timing, less digital hash/noise.

Really enjoying my 350W Teradak - there is simply no going back to even the best switching supplies. My AX1200i sounds simply harsh, forward, noisy and blurry, 2 dimensional. So why did I swap the AX1200i back in? My 350W Teradak set off a smoked detector - it still runs, and temp I would estimate 50-55 degrees near the 12V regulators (it was an unseanoably warm day). My nose is blocked so I can't tell if there is a cooked electronics odour. I could be pushing the 12V rails a bit hard as the CPU is 77W TDP i7 3770K which could feasibly draw 115+ Watts - not that I have the gear to test the power draw from the CPU. I am considering buying at low powered CPU not to push the PSU so hard, but I would also like to verify if this is the case, and also try to find out if there is any damage to the PSU. Any ideas? Should I have a tech have a look at the PSU? Order the 3770T anyway? Thanks

I would say an "audiophile system" is one owned by a person with an enthusiasm for sound quality, who uses listening to evaluate the performance of his system.

This is why I love the internet, full of people talking about stuff they think they know everything about.

Also depends how much power you need, which pico etc. The ones I was looking at (pico, HDPLEX)for my music server running full power i7 did not look encouraging from the specs, but again I guess it depends how they were tested. Has anyone load tested one of the Pico supplies in the same way as the Teradak has been tested?

yeah didn't see that. It is a bit concerning. wonder how a good switch mode supply compares, or even dumb linear solution with the same load. This still is way better than the pico style units people are using. Afaik the next price break with linear atx is the core audio ones right?

the Teradak LPSU's actually have very good ripple specs for the load most users will require (probably less than 6A). Also there will be less noise dumped on the ground. There are some regular switching ATX PSU's with good ripple specs, but this is probably achieved by massive ferrites, which you can note are not used in the Teradak units. one can always add a ferrite to the umbilical cable and push down the noise but IME ferrites are not good...

Review seems reasonable to me. Personally I find the PONO marketing to be misleading, especially when they are talking to people who do not own multi thousand dollar hifi systems (IME takes many, many thousands for hi-res to matter). The other problem is that if the recording and mastering is not any good, no hi-res format or high end hifi will improve it. The third problem is that most artists/producers do not seem worried about recording quality while they are making their best music, maybe save for classical and jazz. So we are left with a selection of classical music, pop remasters, jazz and new (probably lacklustre) content from well known artists, in a format which only matters to the most dedicated of audiophiles, sold with a player that is a strange shape.

Thanks for the update Ben, rather they be 100% sure they have ironed out [any possible] gremlin than ship the PSU sooner.

Thought I would share my experience. Recently built a gaming PC and tested for Audio, sounded quite good, and the bass performance struck be as being superior to my music server. I did some back and forth and sure thing the bass was washed out on my music server, and the sound was a bit "unfocussed". So I ran AO again and this time entered X and X for filter and sound signature. The bass definition is back, along with the focus! On my system, for whatever reason, 1 A does not work well, so for those having trouble with bass definition or focus, might be worth trying X and X.

Paid. @Ben_M – are we to use the "ship to" address option in the paypal transfer? Personally I left this off and only included the requested information in the message box.