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Joe Bloggs

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  1. Hi Dave, Thanks for your help. It's fixed now. I had a look for clues on the Steinberg forums and found that some people had issues with various drivers. So I checked what driver I was using since I never knowingly installed one. I was expecting it to be plug and play. It turns out that windows had automatically found a Microsoft USB 2 driver. When I updated it to the latest Steinberg one it was fixed. I went back into BIOS and put things the way I wanted for performance and it's still good. Lesson learned. Cheers Tim
  2. Hi everyone, This is a weird one. The sound from this Desktop PC was fine until I did this: A clean install of Windows 10 Pro. It used to be Windows 7 Pro. Left it unused, not plugged in for a year. Cleaned out dust with a can of air duster. Attempted to install a new processor which involved flashing the BIOS. However I could not get it to work so reinstalled the original processor. I left it with the Updated BIOS. Increased RAM to 64GB from 32GB. All new sticks. I tested the sound via USB and a Steinberg UR22mkII Interface and got a periodic noise. It seems to be every 50sec and lasts for about 3sec. I timed it and it occurred at 50 sec, 1min 40sec, 2min 30sec, and 3min 20sec, so very consistent. It is an annoying shrill that can not be missed. I checked it with a Frequency Analyzer (FFT Plot) and could see it is definitely across the 10kHz to 18kHz range, possibly at lower frequencies as well. If I use a laptop streaming the exact same song from YouTube the problem, does not occur. I have tried 3 times and confident it is a problem with the Desktop PC. I have tried the following with no success: Played a CD instead of Steaming Disconnect Wi-Fi antenna Replaced original RAM Disconnected all HDD Disconnected front USB card Disconnect power from rear USB card Tried different USB ports on motherboard Reduced RAM speed in BIOS Fixed CPU speed in BIOS, not Auto. Changed overclocking to manual in BIOS, not Auto. I'm now thinking that something has gone wrong with the Motherboard or Power supply. I looked at the PSU voltages in BIOS and they seem pretty consistent, not erratic. I could get a USB filter, Intona 7055-C and see if that fixes it. But the problem wasn't there a year ago and even if it fixes things on playback I will be worried if I am recording with Protools that noise will get introduced to the recording. I could also try using ASIO but this is where I'm out of my league. I have also read that kernel streaming is better anyway. Has anyone got any ideas on this one? I would rather find the culprit than attempt to filter it out. This machine is going to be mainly used for Protools. Thanks
  3. Hi everyone, This is a weird one. The sound from this Desktop PC was fine until I did this: A clean install of Windows 10 Pro. It used to be Windows 7 Pro. Left it unused, not plugged in for a year. Cleaned out dust with a can of air duster. Attempted to install a new processor which involved flashing the BIOS. However I could not get it to work so reinstalled the original processor. I left it with the Updated BIOS. Increased RAM to 64GB from 32GB. All new sticks. I tested the sound via USB and a Steinberg UR22mkII Interface and got a periodic noise. It seems to be every 50sec and lasts for about 3sec. I timed it and it occurred at 50 sec, 1min 40sec, 2min 30sec, and 3min 20sec, so very consistent. It is an annoying shrill that can not be missed. I checked it with a Frequency Analyzer (FFT Plot) and could see it is definitely across the 10kHz to 18kHz range, possibly at lower frequencies as well. If I use a laptop streaming the exact same song from YouTube the problem, does not occur. I have tried 3 times and confident it is a problem with the Desktop PC. I have tried the following with no success: Played a CD instead of Steaming Disconnect Wi-Fi antenna Replaced original RAM Disconnected all HDD Disconnected front USB card Disconnect power from rear USB card Tried different USB ports on motherboard Reduced RAM speed in BIOS Fixed CPU speed in BIOS, not Auto. Changed overclocking to manual in BIOS, not Auto. I'm now thinking that something has gone wrong with the Motherboard or Power supply. I looked at the PSU voltages in BIOS and they seem pretty consistent, not erratic. I could get a USB filter, Intona 7055-C and see if that fixes it. But the problem wasn't there a year ago and even if it fixes things on playback I will be worried if I am recording with Protools that noise will get introduced to the recording. I could also try using ASIO but this is where I'm out of my league. I have also read that kernel streaming is better anyway. Has anyone got any ideas on this one? I would rather find the culprit than attempt to filter it out. This machine is going to be mainly used for Protools. Thanks
  4. I,ve got a Fiio X5 with the latest firmware in it. If I load Flac files on to it the library uses the file names instead of the tag names. Is there a way to fix this. Everything is fine when using Winamp so I know the tags are ok. The Fiio also uses the tag when showing the "now playing" but I want the entire library to be sorted out using the tag names. Thanks.
  5. Hi everyone, I try to stick to the Chris's methodology for ripping CDs but its hard when your living in 2 places and rip CDs on portable drives as well as more permanently fixed USB hard drives. As a result I need to back up entire libraries sometimes from the portable drives. One is ALAC and has been modified after rip, eg changes to metadata and is used for playback. The other is Uncompressed FLAC Archival copy with logs, unmodified. The problem is that if I copy it just using "copy and paste" I am making a copy without any knowledge of if it's secure. Maybe it should be done with dB Power amp batch ripper but I don't know how it works, if it uses Accurate Rip data base, or does multiple passes, or is mainly a converter. I used a program called "Allway Sync" once thinking that it would be good to not rewrite stuff that's already there. But it's hard to use all the time since the drives have different letters each time they get plugged in. Again I'm not sure if it is considered accurate or secure rip. A senior member once told me that you can do a copy of a copy of a copy 100 times and there will be no loss. But I'm a bit confused since I go to all the trouble of setting up dB Poweramp properly for the initial rip from CD to be secure. But the USB drives I use are also just a spinning disk that may get damaged in a way that 1 bit here or there is wrong. I'm keen to have this library as perfect as possible. Any help with this situation would be appreciated!
  6. Thanks everyone for your advice! I've done some research based on the brands you have told me and decided that the Fiio X5 is probably the best option for me at the moment. i.e. best storage, size, formats and price. This will have to do while I save up for an Astell & Kern AK240, which definitely looks like it's the best quality portable player.
  7. I recently found that I could no longer buy an iPod Classic 160GB. Now I'm searching for the best solution to the problem - I need to store at least 160GB of audio in the smallest convenient manner. I use lossless formats and would be happy with either FLAC or ALAC compatibility. Does anyone have any ideas? So far iriver looks the best! Any feedback would be appreciated.
  8. Thanks James, I looked at the Kirabook. It's very powerfull for its size and has good speakers but lacks some of the other spec I was after. The dragon fly DAC and Jambox speakers also look very good if setting up in one location for a while. I suppose it's less effort than plugging in an external hard drive or optical drive, which I will do sometimes. But for times of maximum portability and performance, I think I will get a MacBook Pro. I had a good look at the complaints about the sound problems and figure that sound problems like that can happen on any laptop for a variety of reasons. It doesn't look like a common problem or design fault so I'll give it a go. Cheers.
  9. I would like to buy a 15" laptop computer. It would be nice to get an i7 quad core processor; 16G Ram; Full HD Screen; USB 3, RJ45, HDMI Ports; good battery life; Windows 7. I don't care about hard drive size or optical drive. Does anyone know of a laptop like this which has good sound from its own speakers?? Price does not matter. I am looking for quality. I nearly went with a MacBook pro Retina untill I read they have problems with popping and cracking when listening to music. I also nearly went with an ASUS N56VZ but read that its got fairly poor battery life.
  10. I have recently baught a set of Sennheiser RS220 digital wireless headphones. When audio is soft they sometimes cut out completely. This may be a movie with poor audio or if I am playing my guitar through them, via Bose monitor speakers with headphone output. This happens even if the Bose speakers are turned up full volume. I am assuming that if the input signal is too low to the Sennheiser transmitter, it automatically cuts out. Does anyone know of this problem? Should I be using a headphone amplifier? If so, what type? The Transmitter already has coaxial and optical inputs, so I think I only need to amplify the RCA inputs. The Frequency response of the headphones is 16 - 22,000Hz and I don't want an amplifier to reduce this range. Also since they are high end wireless headphones I don't want to put a cheap and nasty amplifier in the circuit. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  11. Thanks for your advice, I'm in the process of sourcing a Synology NAS drive as you suggested, but I think the shop wants to sell me Buffallo. I'll wait and see what they come up with and compare the two. I'm planning on using RAID 5 for back up purposes. It may seem paranoid but I would like the back up as fail safe as possible. The way I see it the most vunerable part is the RAID controller itself. The back up for this is the usable copy. ie Hard drive(s) on PC. The NAS will not even be plugged in to power most of the time, unless I one day get a UPS, for surge protection. I like the idea of having one large volume that is expandable. This way I don't need to worry about breaking up folders or having them spread over more than one volume. ie seperate folders for each genre.
  12. Thanks for clearing that up Chris. Since I need more than 3TB, which is the limit with RAID 1, I'm thinking that RAID 5 is the best set up for the NAS. I need about 6 - 12 TB. Has anyone got any better suggestions?
  13. Thanks for your response Eloise, I'm a bit confused though. I thought the whole idea of the archival copy was because the more copies of copies that are made, the more it is degraded compared to the original. The archival copy is only 1 step worse than the original CD. From what your saying, I could fill up a mirrored 3TB NAS. Then start copying complete folders to another archival NAS with 3TB mirrored. The reaseon being I would like to keep each Genre Folder complete on one drive, not spread over 2 or more NAS Drives. This is probably the way I have to go but I find it hard to beleive that over 3TB not even 1 bit would be incorect. If you could shed anymore light on the subject it would be appreciated.
  14. In 2009 Chris wrote a CD ripping Strategy and Methodology. In this he said a NAS drive was best for the Archival copy. ie Lossless uncompressed copy for making other copies but not listening to. I am wanting to set up a NAS drive for this purpose but am not sure what RAID to go for. I originaly thought RAID 1 (mirrored) would be best but don't think this is expandable? This means I would be stuck with 6TB mirrored if I was to purchase a 12TB NAS drive. Thats if its even possible to mirror 6TB? I would eventualy run out of space and be forced to copy folders on to a new NAS. This would create some kind of non bit perfect loss. ie a copy of a copy. Other Raid versions don't seem acceptable for storing a bit perfect copy since they spread the data over several drives. Is there a solution? Does anyone know Chris's recomended system?
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